I do let the razor air dry for a day first.
Preventing rust.
- Thread starter mycarver
- Start date
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
Nice solution for Ren Wax, a wide 30ml Miron Glass jar. Has a seal so the wax doesn’t[ dry out and you can get to all of it without having fingers 6” long.
- Thread starter
- #43
Yup.
And to paraphrase Legion.
“You can do the oil thing but it’s a PITA.
Or you can just use Ren-wax and forget it. “
Wise man.
And to paraphrase Legion.
“You can do the oil thing but it’s a PITA.
Or you can just use Ren-wax and forget it. “
Wise man.
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
Food grade silicone oil is what’s in the gun/razor socks, and works well. It has drawbacks that all oil has, it darkens wooden scales and oil can’t be used with bone according to Alfredo, oil turns bone translucent. And like all oil, it’s kind of messy, you have to be careful where you put oiled things, though maybe not a problem with SR because they’re small.
VCI paper seems to be a good solution for razors that are stored in a container, though it needs to be replaced every few years.
VCI paper seems to be a good solution for razors that are stored in a container, though it needs to be replaced every few years.
I did end up getting some Renwax. Started yesterday applying it to some
Razors.
Razors.
Humidity isn't a big problem where I live. My shave cabinet humidity is about 56% now. I make sure to wipe them down thoroughly and they go back into seven day cases with slips of VCI paper. I tried CLP for a while but it left some stains on one of my razors that was waxed by the previous owner.
BTW I noticed that waxed razors exhibit more drag when drawing on my strops. I wiped them down with alcohol but it didn't help much. It just seems to be correcting with each use.
BTW I noticed that waxed razors exhibit more drag when drawing on my strops. I wiped them down with alcohol but it didn't help much. It just seems to be correcting with each use.
- Thread starter
- #47
Cool. A little goes a long way. Your process of just wiping and let dry accounts for a lot.
My routine is putting them away till next time I do the wax thing .
The more you research this stuff the more valuable it becomes .
Nothing like bringing out a nice clean oil free razor ready to go.
I think you’ll grow to really like it. And the peace of mind.
As a retired machinist, I just use what almost all machine manufacturers recommend to keep them properly lubricated and protected from mineral and water based cutting oils.
Mobil Vactra 2
I have used Vactra 2 to actually pull rust off the surface of steel. Wipe it on, let it sit over night, and the rust wipes off and doesn't come back. I use a tiny drop on my straights, wipe with my finger, then wipe dry.
~doug~
Mobil Vactra 2
I have used Vactra 2 to actually pull rust off the surface of steel. Wipe it on, let it sit over night, and the rust wipes off and doesn't come back. I use a tiny drop on my straights, wipe with my finger, then wipe dry.
~doug~
I just read the datasheet for this oil. As you mentioned, this seems to have allot of good protection properties.
Is this safe to get on your hands?
I have been wiping Vactra on tools for over 45 years with my fingers and never had an adverse reaction. A few other products we used on inspection tools with anti-rust properties that are that are razor safe and generally skin safe, are Vicks Vapor Rub and Lanolube. Yes, Vick's...
On our Wilson Rockwell Tester we used eel oil that came with the machine...
I also wholeheartedly agree with what was said about WD40, WD stands for Water Displacement. It is great for loosening things up and removing water from the surface of metals, but leaves no protection from oxidation(rust).
In the good old days of Points and Condensers on cars, I always kept a can of WD40 around for when I steam cleaned an engine and the distributor got wet. Take the cap off, spray inside liberally with WD40, and the engine would start every time.
~doug~
My main takeaway from this experiment is the importance of the storage conditions. Exposing metals to adverse climatic conditions with salt and humidity is a recipe for disaster.
The other point comes from the winning materials instruction sheet. They all recommend regularly monitoring the equipment and periodically reapplying the product. None of them are designed as a set and forget solution.
In my own razor storage this translates into a few things. Keeping razors stored in the most stable location in the house outside of the bathroom. I keep a Sensorpush humidity monitor in the case itself. I’ve had the monitor for almost a year. The calibrated humidity monitor showed me that condition in my house, while not terrible, are not as favourable as they could be. As a result, I now lightly oil my razors after use with Ballistol and a polishing cloth. This both oils and cleans the razors prior to storage. There may be better products but so far this extra level of protection is working. The conditions don’t seem to warrant a high tech solution like a dry box. Most importantly, I keep an eye on my razors. I try to use them regularly. I give them all a wipe down at least once a season. Longer term storage is with Ren Wax and/or VCI paper in a closed razor coffin.
I try to be reasonably cautious without being overly paranoid. I’ve cleaned up a few razors that were in pretty bad shape and brought them back into shape. With reasonable precautions and early intervention I can’t imagine things getting too bad.
The other point comes from the winning materials instruction sheet. They all recommend regularly monitoring the equipment and periodically reapplying the product. None of them are designed as a set and forget solution.
In my own razor storage this translates into a few things. Keeping razors stored in the most stable location in the house outside of the bathroom. I keep a Sensorpush humidity monitor in the case itself. I’ve had the monitor for almost a year. The calibrated humidity monitor showed me that condition in my house, while not terrible, are not as favourable as they could be. As a result, I now lightly oil my razors after use with Ballistol and a polishing cloth. This both oils and cleans the razors prior to storage. There may be better products but so far this extra level of protection is working. The conditions don’t seem to warrant a high tech solution like a dry box. Most importantly, I keep an eye on my razors. I try to use them regularly. I give them all a wipe down at least once a season. Longer term storage is with Ren Wax and/or VCI paper in a closed razor coffin.
I try to be reasonably cautious without being overly paranoid. I’ve cleaned up a few razors that were in pretty bad shape and brought them back into shape. With reasonable precautions and early intervention I can’t imagine things getting too bad.
Attachments
Last edited:
I'm not a chemistry expert, but when a product says "Do not induce vomiting" on the warning label, I take it seriously. The only products that I have ever used on braking surfaces are solvents, and the vapor description sure sounds like atom-mac contains solvents.
I would use gloves with this product.
~doug~
The warnings are more explicit than that.
"May cause irritation to eyes and skin."
as well as
"Aftef contact with skin: wash immediately with plenty of water and soap."
I don't see how gloves could be considered not mandatory.
