What's new

My knife sharpening has come to its peak!

This is a sloyd knife I made and just finished up the other day. I ground it down to .003" before I even set the bevels. All steps done completely free hand, no guides other than my hands, posture, sound and feel.

1084 steel, HT and temper by me. HRc 58-60. 24* inclusive V-edge with shoulders slightly convexed for wood carving.

Bevel set on Norton IB8 india combo stone, pyramids on course side starting at 75 laps, decreasing 5 laps each set until I reached the apex and established the burr. One lap is up and back. Fine side pyramid starting at 50 laps, decreasing by 10 each set.

Next I moved to lapping films backed by a granite tile, starting at 600 for 50 laps, decreasing by 5. Went next to 1000 grit same pyramid, 2K, 4K, 6K starting at 30 passes edge trailing, pyramid decreasing by 5, then to 12K grit, pyramid starting at 25 passes edge trailing decreasing by 2, with 10 single passes each side after last set.

Next is Cr02 loaded balsa strop. Pyramid starting at 15 passes edge trailing, decreasing by one. Plain leather strop, same count. Finished on newsprint paper strop for single passes (no pyramid) 25 count, edge trailing.

Each progression I lighten pressure on the knife. No sharpie to check if I'm reaching apex, I can feel and hear it. I do use a 10x loupe to inspect for burr and general condition.


Now, this knife is not just sharp, it's damn sharp! We hear of hair whittling sharp, and even see the pictures, also, there is cutting a free hanging hair. Both of those tests pass easily. So I whittled a hair into a feathr stick! Three cuts in the same place on the same hair without breaking it or popping the curls off!

Here is the knife with no edge. The straight edge is what was sharpened.

proxy.php



My work space and materials, I think it cost me $20 for all this not including the Norton stone.

proxy.php



Here is the proof, you can see 3 distinct curls in th same place on the hair. My wife has really fine hair to begin with, too, which makes this even tougher for me.

proxy.php



This just goes to prove that a $300 shapton stone, or a mythical Japanese natural stone won't make your knives any sharper than the cheaper equipment. Your technique will make your knives sharper, and only your technique!. Yes, using good quality equipment helps by having uniform grit size, true flat surfaces, ease of use, but that doesn't mean my 3 year old son could use them to the same results. I have been seriously sharpening free hnd for only a couple years, and now feel as I have finally mastered my technique.


So, hope this doesn't discourage you gear heads that have tool boxes full of sharpening supplies, because that stuff is needed for many super alloys, but stick with it, learn to move repeatedly and predictably and you can get this sharp as well.


-Xander
 
This just goes to prove that a $300 shapton stone, or a mythical Japanese natural stone won't make your knives any sharper than the cheaper equipment. Your technique will make your knives sharper, and only your technique!.

How true...so very very true!
 
Do you remember what equipment you have for the sharpening?

Not to intend offense but this is like asking a photographer about his equipment. It is the ability and skill of the individual that does the deed, not the equipment. Equipment is just a tool in the hands of a master, nothing more. My guess is you just want to have the same gear which is a great idea - it gives you a head start and is a wise move. Then the practice begins and ultimately you achieve terrific results.
 
Have any tips for sharpening by hand? I have a few stone my dad gave me but I can't even get my knives close to being able to cut the hair on my arm. Does it just takes lots of time and practice till you can keep a consistent angle?
 
The biggest mistake I see people new to sharpening make, either free hand or system, is not spending enough time at low grits to reach apex. Even a 220 grit edge fully apexed will shave hair. Using a sharpie and at least 10x magnification to see if you are reaching the apex is a good tool.

Next issue with free hand sharpening is rocking the blade over the apex and dulling it inadvertantly. This comes from practicing technique and learning to control the movements. I suggest starting with a small pocket knife first, free handing longer blades introduces more technique as your elbows get further away from your core.

Holding the blade and handle with both hands, fingers spaced evenly helps. I do not hand hold a stone or strop. I do not hold the knife like I am cutting with it, lay th knife on its side on a table, then press down on it with your finger tips like your washing a childs hair, or playing piano, this is the basic hand positioning I use because it allows me to lock my wrists and not induce any twisting motion. All movements are of the whole arm. I prefer to stand at my kitchen counter, so my forearms are at 45* below horizontal. This is very comfortable to me, but differs for everyone.


To comment on Tubaguys question: sharpening is all about investment. There are two options, time or money. I didn't have a whole lot of money, so I invested my time to learn how to freehand sharpen, methodically, repetably. Some people prefer to invest money in the guided systems that take much of the motor control skill out of the equation. They still require certain techniques, but to a far less degree. Using the photography analogy, its better to know how to use mediocre equipment to its fullest than to use the best equipment in a mediocre fashion.


-Xander
 
Oh, one more comment about stropping. I ALWAYS flip the knife over its spine when stropping. Flipping it over its edge causes it to round out the apex, ruining the edge you just put on. Forget all the bugs bunny cartoons you've seen with him pretending to be a barber, whipping th blade around on a strop. Dedicated, methodical strokes that stop before you lift the blade are bst.


-Xander
 
Not to intend offense but this is like asking a photographer about his equipment. It is the ability and skill of the individual that does the deed, not the equipment. Equipment is just a tool in the hands of a master, nothing more. My guess is you just want to have the same gear which is a great idea - it gives you a head start and is a wise move. Then the practice begins and ultimately you achieve terrific results.

The last part was more of what I was figuring; I knew very well that using the same equipment, I wouldn't get the same results, but knew that there was potential with enough practice
 
Top Bottom