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In defence of pure badger

AimlessWanderer

Remember to forget me!
Pure Badger has a bad reputation. The internet would have me believe that it's cheap for good reason, eternally scratchy, and is not particularly dense.

It's also my favourite badger hair.

Eternally scritchy? Well, maybe some brushes are, but I haven't found the scritch level to be static on any of the pure brushes I have spent time with. Mine have also all been far more pleasant to use than my Omega 11047 Mixed Scritchet. That thing feels like trying to lather with a fist full of sharpened pencils, and was relegated to a keyboard duster, and general cleaning brush.

The pure badgers I have spent time with, have followed a common trajectory in terms of scritch. If I take that Mixed Scritchet as a 10/10 In terms of discomfort, my scrubbiest pure badgers have started off around a 6 or 7 on that scale. But then after a while, they get worse.

As the knots started to break In, and some hair started to yield sooner than the rest, the remaining quills could get a bit brutal for a while. A couple of rhe brushes crept up to an 8 or 9. Still not as bad as the Omega, but close. However, that has tended to be short lived (maybe a dozen or so shaves), and the scritch slowly diminished back down to a 6, or maybe even a 5, and are continuing the break in further.

That's with the scrubbiest ones.

IMG_20240122_115716.jpg

These are all my pure badger brushes. Four of them are scrubby to the extent I just described above. Four of them either went through, or are still going through, that same kind of break-in curve, but are arriving at an even lower scritch level. They are quite lofty for their knot diameter though, which probably helps. The two Beaufort brushes are now kind of what I expected best badger hair to feel like (more on that below), but the peak scritch on one of them was (for a while) at least as bad as the mixed Omega, although only for maybe half a dozen shaves, before eventually settling down to a wonderful moderate scrub level, with a far more gentle scritch.

My final two pure brushes have about as much scritch as my Edwin Jagger super badger, which pretty much means I can feel scritch if I rub the dry brush on my dry face, but it's almost disappeared by the time it's full of lather. There is still a "presence" to the two brushes, rather than being a gossamer cloud, but I would be hard pressed to call it scritch.

For comparison, here are my Best Badger brushes.

IMG_20240122_115306.jpg

Aside from the Wee Scot, which is a near spineless piece of brush shaped fluff, the Simpson's in this pic are far more scrubby than their pure badger counterparts in the first pic. The flow through on these isn't as good as the pure either, and (at least at this stage in their lives) they are far more likely to scour my face raw. In fairness though, they're not "stabby" like the pure brushes sometimes were at peak scritch. My Berkeley 46 in best, has a particularly vicious scrub, though again, not stabby. I haven't tried the Jagger one yet, as it is a very recent addition.

I am not going to try and say that all pure badger brushes are kind to the face, but I can only report on my experience, and more than half of mine are very pleasant to use, and even the scrubbiest of the others are kinder than my scrubby best badger brushes. I am sure there'll be many more "fist full of sharpened pencils" pure brushes out there, but my experience with this hair grade has been largely positive, and all produce excellent lather, and offer very good flow through too.

As for the supersoft badger brushes that have come my way, I would rather use a synthetic most of the time. At least that way, I am assured some semblance of backbone to accompany the supersoft tips.
 

musicman1951

three-tu-tu, three-tu-tu
Pure badger hair is picked from the neck, shoulders, abdomen and buttocks of the badger and so is made up of hair which covers around 60% of a badger's body. The hair of a pure badger shaving brush varies greatly in softness, colour and pliability. Pure badger shaving brushes are predominantly dark in colour but can fluctuate between a light tan colour to a near black silvery sheen.
The hair of a pure badger shaving brush is coarser than that of best or silvertip shaving brushes due to its noticeably larger shaft.

I'm never sure that every manufacturer means the same thing when they say "pure" badger. And if the paragraph I lifted using the Google machine is accurate there is a great deal of variety within the pure badger brush offerings. You have a lovely collection of pure brushes there, but I suspect that for considerably less money I can find a pure badger from some manufacturer that is waaaaaay less satisfying in use.

I generally ignore much of the labeling and go with the quality of the maker.
 
Pure Badger has a bad reputation. The internet would have me believe that it's cheap for good reason, eternally scratchy, and is not particularly dense.

It's also my favourite badger hair.

Eternally scritchy? Well, maybe some brushes are, but I haven't found the scritch level to be static on any of the pure brushes I have spent time with. Mine have also all been far more pleasant to use than my Omega 11047 Mixed Scritchet. That thing feels like trying to lather with a fist full of sharpened pencils, and was relegated to a keyboard duster, and general cleaning brush.

The pure badgers I have spent time with, have followed a common trajectory in terms of scritch. If I take that Mixed Scritchet as a 10/10 In terms of discomfort, my scrubbiest pure badgers have started off around a 6 or 7 on that scale. But then after a while, they get worse.

As the knots started to break In, and some hair started to yield sooner than the rest, the remaining quills could get a bit brutal for a while. A couple of rhe brushes crept up to an 8 or 9. Still not as bad as the Omega, but close. However, that has tended to be short lived (maybe a dozen or so shaves), and the scritch slowly diminished back down to a 6, or maybe even a 5, and are continuing the break in further.

That's with the scrubbiest ones.

View attachment 1785047

These are all my pure badger brushes. Four of them are scrubby to the extent I just described above. Four of them either went through, or are still going through, that same kind of break-in curve, but are arriving at an even lower scritch level. They are quite lofty for their knot diameter though, which probably helps. The two Beaufort brushes are now kind of what I expected best badger hair to feel like (more on that below), but the peak scritch on one of them was (for a while) at least as bad as the mixed Omega, although only for maybe half a dozen shaves, before eventually settling down to a wonderful moderate scrub level, with a far more gentle scritch.

My final two pure brushes have about as much scritch as my Edwin Jagger super badger, which pretty much means I can feel scritch if I rub the dry brush on my dry face, but it's almost disappeared by the time it's full of lather. There is still a "presence" to the two brushes, rather than being a gossamer cloud, but I would be hard pressed to call it scritch.

For comparison, here are my Best Badger brushes.

View attachment 1785048

Aside from the Wee Scot, which is a near spineless piece of brush shaped fluff, the Simpson's in this pic are far more scrubby than their pure badger counterparts in the first pic. The flow through on these isn't as good as the pure either, and (at least at this stage in their lives) they are far more likely to scour my face raw. In fairness though, they're not "stabby" like the pure brushes sometimes were at peak scritch. My Berkeley 46 in best, has a particularly vicious scrub, though again, not stabby. I haven't tried the Jagger one yet, as it is a very recent addition.

I am not going to try and say that all pure badger brushes are kind to the face, but I can only report on my experience, and more than half of mine are very pleasant to use, and even the scrubbiest of the others are kinder than my scrubby best badger brushes. I am sure there'll be many more "fist full of sharpened pencils" pure brushes out there, but my experience with this hair grade has been largely positive, and all produce excellent lather, and offer very good flow through too.

As for the supersoft badger brushes that have come my way, I would rather use a synthetic most of the time. At least that way, I am assured some semblance of backbone to accompany the supersoft tips.

Congratulations! The key is to find what makes you happy.

(Wish that I could get along with the pure grade as I could have purchased even more brushes!! :sob::sob:)
 
Pure badger hair is picked from the neck, shoulders, abdomen and buttocks of the badger and so is made up of hair which covers around 60% of a badger's body. The hair of a pure badger shaving brush varies greatly in softness, colour and pliability. Pure badger shaving brushes are predominantly dark in colour but can fluctuate between a light tan colour to a near black silvery sheen.
The hair of a pure badger shaving brush is coarser than that of best or silvertip shaving brushes due to its noticeably larger shaft.

I'm never sure that every manufacturer means the same thing when they say "pure" badger. And if the paragraph I lifted using the Google machine is accurate there is a great deal of variety within the pure badger brush offerings. You have a lovely collection of pure brushes there, but I suspect that for considerably less money I can find a pure badger from some manufacturer that is waaaaaay less satisfying in use.

I generally ignore much of the labeling and go with the quality of the maker.
Pure is great. Love my Special and my Eagle in pure. This past year I've been using my Classic 1 in silvertip as my travel brush but a recent trip out of town made me want to swap it for my Special again. Would love a Duke in pure.

Yes, I would think that there is great variability in "pure" badger bristles. I'm also thinking that Simpson uses the best available.

I've got two vintage brushes that were re-knotted by an Ebay seller, one with a "pure badger" knot, and one with a mixed (50/50 badger/boar) knot:

20240124_164505.jpg


20240124_163918.jpg


I have no idea regarding the source of the knot in the pure badger brush (top), and refer to it as "the Porcupine". Yikes, it is barely useable. Feels like pure badger whiskers.

The mixed is much better, likely tempered by the (oddly) softer boar bristles. It is scritchy and scrubby, but a bit more prickly than my Semogue Mistura...again, knot source unknown. I still enjoy using this one, certainly more than "the Porcupine".

I'm also wondering if the off-brand pure badger knots are trimmed either before or after the knot is made to even things up, which in my mind would increase the prickly factor.

Anyway, I'm hoping these will lose a bit of their "edge" through use, but not holding my breath.
 
My favorite brush to date is "Pure" Badger by Adam Grooming Atelier; essentially this is the Rytmo made by Muhle.
It brings a little scrub, but it makes a fine rich lather without ever having been prickly or scritchy.

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I too have the Simpson's Special S1 in both Pure and Best. I honestly cannot feel a difference between the two grades in those brushes.
 

AimlessWanderer

Remember to forget me!
I too have the Simpson's Special S1 in both Pure and Best. I honestly cannot feel a difference between the two grades in those brushes.

Yes, of the Case, Special, and Berkeley I have in both best badger and pure, the Specials feels the most similar between the two grades on my brushes too. If I recall correctly, the differences between best and pure were more obvious in the beginning, but not since the two brushes bedded in.

The Simpson Special appears to be a popular choice in this thread. Good to see.
 
Yes, of the Case, Special, and Berkeley I have in both best badger and pure, the Specials feels the most similar between the two grades on my brushes too. If I recall correctly, the differences between best and pure were more obvious in the beginning, but not since the two brushes bedded in.

The Simpson Special appears to be a popular choice in this thread. Good to see.
The Special, it really is. I honestly couldn't have expected such performance from a sub 20mm knot.
I acquired mine in Pure for travel and has become the perfect companion to the M6 I also tote, in Sovereign.
 
The mixed midget was torturous. So bad I tried to cut and drill it out to slap a silvertip into the handle but broke it during the drilling. A 599 replaced it as one of my travelers.

Love my M&F blonde. Some low loft (2/1) silvertips have worked well with good backbone in older handles. SOC 2-band was ok with just enough backbone to keep. The mistura is breaking in nicely.

I tried a couple pures that I can’t remember the maker, but based on the 3 samples to date? nope. One’s an incident, two a coincidence, three’s a pattern. I’m not buying another. They’re too prickly/scritchy for me. And I predominately use boars anyway. I like badgers when it’s cool/cold.

I’m glad you like y’all’s…but I’m a hard pass
 
I was never a fan of pure badger. Scritchy, floppy, over-prized. Before I got into wet-shaving as a hobby, all I used was pure badger, not knowing that there was any difference between one badger brush and another (and not even aware that boar brushes existed). I survived it, thought I had fine shaves then (with disposable BIC plastic razors). Gets the job done. These days, I would prefer a boar any day over a pure badger (in fact, over any badger), or else at least invest a little more to get a Finest or Best (or a SIlvertip or 2band...).
 
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Pure Badger SOTD
SOTD-Quantum-Alpha-T-O_2024-01-30.jpg
:001_wub:

Brush: Shavemac Pure 18/43
Soap: Mike's Unscented (1)
Razor: Phoenix Quantum Alpha on custom tortoiseshell handle
Blade: FlyDear (4)
ASL: Caffè Latte [home brew]

A fine shave. :biggrin:

BRUSH:
I've been following (@AimlessWanderer) Al's experimenting (and BAD :lol1:) for a while. Then, accidentally discovered this thread yesterday. This prompted me to get one of my Pure Badgers out. It's the last one I used and that was nearly three years ago! I really enjoyed it today, it's great for accurate swirling and painting on the face and neck, and it has excellent scrub (but no scritch). Cheers Al.


Happy shaves guys. :cornut:
 
Pure Badger SOTD
SOTD-Quantum-Alpha-T-O_2024-01-30.jpg
:001_wub:

Brush: Shavemac Pure 18/43
Soap: Mike's Unscented (1)
Razor: Phoenix Quantum Alpha on custom tortoiseshell handle
Blade: FlyDear (4)
ASL: Caffè Latte [home brew]

A fine shave. :biggrin:

BRUSH:
I've been following (@AimlessWanderer) Al's experimenting (and BAD :lol1:) for a while. Then, accidentally discovered this thread yesterday. This prompted me to get one of my Pure Badgers out. It's the last one I used and that was nearly three years ago! I really enjoyed it today, it's great for accurate swirling and painting on the face and neck, and it has excellent scrub (but no scritch). Cheers Al.


Happy shaves guys. :cornut:
Does Shavemac not use Pure Badger anymore? At least with their brush configurator, the lowest grade of badger I see is finest.
 
Pure Badger SOTD
SOTD-Quantum-Alpha-T-O_2024-01-30.jpg
:001_wub:

Brush: Shavemac Pure 18/43
Soap: Mike's Unscented (1)
Razor: Phoenix Quantum Alpha on custom tortoiseshell handle
Blade: FlyDear (4)
ASL: Caffè Latte [home brew]

A fine shave. :biggrin:

BRUSH:
I've been following (@AimlessWanderer) Al's experimenting (and BAD :lol1:) for a while. Then, accidentally discovered this thread yesterday. This prompted me to get one of my Pure Badgers out. It's the last one I used and that was nearly three years ago! I really enjoyed it today, it's great for accurate swirling and painting on the face and neck, and it has excellent scrub (but no scritch). Cheers Al.


Happy shaves guys. :cornut:

Good move! That brush ‘deserves’ more use IMHO!! :thumbup::thumbup:
 
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