How would you "harden" a porous stone?

[Singing in the brain]

Hey guys!

Ok so, the dilemma i have atm is rooted in a memory i have of guys on the internet using coarser natural stones as flattening-devices.
I have a decent piece of Gotland-sandstone (half a weel, radius is about 500mm) that im willing to experiment on.

Now, not all ideas makes good results. I tried boiling a piece of imanishi 1000 in vaseline, with wood backing. Exept for the gained knowledge, it didnt do much for me in the end but to give grease-transfer paranoia.

Ok so here are some stuff i feel are important:

- It might act as a complement to W&D flattening.
- Its X-amount of abrasive that i paid 0:- for.
- Milder abrasion.
- Can be cut to desired L x W
- Will be in contact with other porous waterstones etc
- Good qualia/feng shui
- Its heavy and thick.
- Its gonna live at my home.

I thaught about those of you that menion kerosene and coticules and some kind of increased surface hardness, but ive never tried it, but i believe i have to use some kind of not-thick fluid, and it doesnt really have to penetrate thruout the whole thickness of the stone. Maybe some thinned-out lacquer or fluid that hardens, i really dont know. That Eidsborg thing thats in Grinding and honing when he "bakes" hones and get increased hardness might work, but my only practical option is to use like a bonfire, and then that stuff will stink up the hole block (The theoretical block, in theory).


Iwas going to find the flattening thread but i didnt want to hijack it maybe i was wrong.
I like being wrong

Take care guys! /Martin

 

[Singing in the brain]

oh one more thing, do you think this perticular rock has grain-direction?

 

[kcb5150]

I... Would just buy a lapping plate... Just because guys are doing the old rub two hones together to keep them true trick doesn't make it ideal.

 

[Gamma]

Have not found lapping stones with other stones to be fun or useful. Sny stone I’d use gor lapping will need to be lapped. Even Iwasaki admitted that the 6 stone process woild leave a curved surface.

Have not seen solvents increase stone hardness.

Cant imagine a sensible way, or reason, to fill a porous stone to turn it into a lapping plate. I think the only possible achievement would be a loss of $$ and wasted time.

If I was forced to, vaccuum fill with resin but I see a big fail there. Or pulverize it and set in a binder. Not simple, or essy, or cheap, and will probably fail.

 

[Legion]

How are you going to flatten the sandstone before and after you use it to flatten things? Since it is softer than most sharpening stones you will dish it quickly, and no. It cannot be hardened.

If you need something for quick and dirty flattening before you go to W/D you would be better off finding a relatively flat section of concrete sidewalk. I’ve done that, with the garden hose running over it.

 

[Bowmaker]

Cut three sandstone blocks to maintain their flatness and it would work. There are easier ways to flatten stones but this a straight razor form so we ain't all into easy.
The Whitworth three plate method works as well as it ever did.

 

[Empire straights]

How are you going to flatten the sandstone before and after you use it to flatten things? Since it is softer than most sharpening stones you will dish it quickly, and no. It cannot be hardened.

If you need something for quick and dirty flattening before you go to W/D you would be better off finding a relatively flat section of concrete sidewalk. I’ve done that, with the garden hose running over it.

Combination SiC stone can work pretty well too on some types of rock. I've used them a bunch of times, but you have to conform the surface afterwards. A lapping plate or diamond plate is the way to go though.

 

[Singing in the brain]

I did not get the wording right in the title. I put the "" around harden because i didnt have the right word atm. I guess a synonym to what i meant might be to solidify, or to make it less prone to dishing.
In useage, it would be maintained with w-d paper and a flat reference, and not the 3stone-thingy.

 

[Singing in the brain]

I... Would just buy a lapping plate... Just because guys are doing the old rub two hones together to keep them true trick doesn't make it ideal.

im having a hard time understanding your post. can you elaborate?

 

[Singing in the brain]

If I was forced to, vaccuum fill with resin but I see a big fail there.

Thats intresting, why do you presume it could go south?

 

[Singing in the brain]

How are you going to flatten the sandstone before and after you use it to flatten things? Since it is softer than most sharpening stones you will dish it quickly, and no. It cannot be hardened.

If you need something for quick and dirty flattening before you go to W/D you would be better off finding a relatively flat section of concrete sidewalk. I’ve done that, with the garden hose running over it.

But seriously mate, who even does that to anything close to a finisher? No matter how good hose i have, id feel more rekt than my hone.

 

[Singing in the brain]

Cut three sandstone blocks to maintain their flatness and it would work. There are easier ways to flatten stones but this a straight razor form so we ain't all into easy.
The Whitworth three plate method works as well as it ever did.

Indeed it does work. But since i have a flat reference and paper that would flatten the flattener its overkill. Perhaps if the experiment fails id cut it into 3, but withwort kinda left the household and made way for carreramarble and paper

 

[Singing in the brain]

Combination SiC stone can work pretty well too on some types of rock. I've used them a bunch of times, but you have to conform the surface afterwards. A lapping plate or diamond plate is the way to go though.

To me, the technique of flatten a big thing fully with a smaller thing, always fail. And i intend to use the afforementioned method of using paper on rock. I say that because the sandstone would be cut according to the measurements of th wetanddry-sheets.

 

[kcb5150]

im having a hard time understanding your post. can you elaborate?

? Once you flatten something with a single stone it isn't flat anymore and then you have to true that as well.... And it's likely slower than something purpose built.

 

[Singing in the brain]

Just to clarify: To me, this is about the issue of having a sandstone thats too soft, and i appreciate the time you take to respond.
My time is limited, as are yours.
What its absolutley not about, is buying "stuff"
But that might be interesting info aswell, but OT.

 

[Gamma]

Thats intresting, why do you presume it could go south?

Because I've made about 80-90 hones using all sorts of abrasives in all sorts of binders including all types of commercially available and home-brewed resins, epoxies, etc, cold pour, hot pour, baked, etc...been there, done that, etc.

It's easy to mold something. It's not easy to mold something that anyone with a clue actually wants to use.

 

[Legion]

But seriously mate, who even does that to anything close to a finisher? No matter how good hose i have, id feel more rekt than my hone.

When you find the finisher lying on the ground in a ditch or at the bottom of a quarry, you have to do what you have to do to make it flat.

 

[psfred]

You could vacuum impregnate the stone with some sort of epoxy to keep it from shedding grit, but then you would have the equivalent of a King Delux 300 -- so hard using aluminum oxide stones on it for flattening "glazes" the 300 by chipping off the silicon carbide particules and giving you a smoother, effectively higher grit stone. Has to be revived with loose silicon carbide grit to cut fast and coarse. I flatten other stones with it, but use grit to freshen it up before using it to grind something.

Same as Arkansas stones. They all have similar grit particles, but the "hard" and dense stones have them compressed together tighter, and the particles will not come off the stone without major work. Burnishing an Ark (the harder ones) chips off the "points" on the silicate particles making them effectively smaller, and the only actual cutting happens on the side of the pores between particles. Fine and smooth, but slow.

Flatten with loose silicon carbide grit on a steel plate of some sort.

 

[Empire straights]

You might be able to soak it in oil then bake it to polymerize oil similar to how you "season" a cat iron skillet. You'd have to lap it to expose grit but the polymerization of the oil might slow grit shedding by acting as a binder. A lapping plate would be much easier though. I've never done this with a stone so proceed at your own risk.

 

[kcb5150]

I think you would just end up with with a sticky mess. Seasoning layers have to be incredibly thin or they gum up and go rancid.