Has anyone figured out an easy way to remove the knot from a RazoRock 400 handle? I like the handle but really dislike synthetic knots. I know I can cut and drill and grind, but I'm hoping someone figured out an easier way. Thanks!
How to remove the knot from a RazoRock 400
- Thread starter Borderboss
- Start date
There are much more knowledgeable people here, but I've steamed out a few knots. I put the brush in a bowl, then put that inside of a covered pot and simmered it for a long time. Eventually the knots have twisted out. The first time I did it, I tried too hard to yank it out and it left too much behind and I damaged the handle trying to scrape out the rest. The next couple I just steamed for much longer and they came out more cleanly. Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks for the info on that. Could you tell me what you think is generally the right amount of time? Fortunately, I have a standalone steamer that we seem to use once every couple of years, so I could utilize it for this purpose.
Be careful steaming knots out. I cracked a nice Shavemac handle that way once. The knot didn't budge but it must have swelled.
I may try it with an inexpensive handle that is easily replaced but but never a $$$ one or a sentimental one.
I may try it with an inexpensive handle that is easily replaced but but never a $$$ one or a sentimental one.
It was a couple of hours. I took it out after the first hour and gave it a solid twist to see if it would break loose, then put it back in and tested about ever 30 min.
@brucered gives good caution, but since the RR brush isn't expensive, I wouldn't worry too much. By the way, I left the bristles on, so I could get a good grip on it.
@brucered gives good caution, but since the RR brush isn't expensive, I wouldn't worry too much. By the way, I left the bristles on, so I could get a good grip on it.
Resin 400 or aluminum 400? Cooking resin seems misguided to me.
Personally I would cut any knot out. I have done quite a few. My quick summary:
Tape knot tightly just above the handle. I use stretchy electrical tape.
Cut off the loft. Just below or through the bottom of the tape.
Cut out the base of the knot with a cheap (but sharp) wood carving gouge. Start center, work outwards.
Sometimes I use a forstner bit in my drill press to take out the center of the knot, if the glue is very hard and solid. A couple Zeniths required this.
Personally I would cut any knot out. I have done quite a few. My quick summary:
Tape knot tightly just above the handle. I use stretchy electrical tape.
Cut off the loft. Just below or through the bottom of the tape.
Cut out the base of the knot with a cheap (but sharp) wood carving gouge. Start center, work outwards.
Sometimes I use a forstner bit in my drill press to take out the center of the knot, if the glue is very hard and solid. A couple Zeniths required this.
- Thread starter
- #7
It's an aluminum 400.
I've cut out a lot of knots over the years, but thought if there's a way to avoid that process, I would give it a try. If the steaming fails me, I can fall back to the cut-and-gouge process.
I'm watching this thread. I'd like to hear how steaming works with the aluminum RR 400, if you go that way or someone else has.
I haven't done aluminum, but have steamed out a few resin handles. As noted above, I put them in a bowl inside the pot, with simmering water outside the bowl, so it just steams and doesn't sit in water.
- Thread starter
- #10
OK guys, let's give it a go. I'll let you know later tonight if this works. I'll leave it in for an hour as Space Monkey indicated. With the way this steamer works, the brush will be exposed only to steam and not directly to water.
sorry, late to this. but I always protect the handle with some heat tape.
I don't see there being any issues with an aluminum handle.
Just make sure to handle it with a towel as it will be hot.
Twist & Pull. I hope it comes out easily for you.
Just make sure to handle it with a towel as it will be hot.
Twist & Pull. I hope it comes out easily for you.
- Thread starter
- #13
At 60 minutes, the only thing happening was that the dye they use on the knot to make it two-tone was liquifying and dripping off. The knot wouldn't budge.
At 90 minutes, when I twisted and pulled the knot, the bristles promptly separated from the disk they were imbedded in and came off in a single clump. The disk won't budge. I'll need to drill it out. Oh well.
At 90 minutes, when I twisted and pulled the knot, the bristles promptly separated from the disk they were imbedded in and came off in a single clump. The disk won't budge. I'll need to drill it out. Oh well.
Oh shoot, it was worth a try. Good luck!
Thanks for the report. I have removed vintage nylon knots. Sounds like modern synthetics knots are going to be a different challenge.
- Thread starter
- #16
Here's what I ended up with. I think it's in a better place than if I had just cut the bristles. A 7/8" Forster bit fits in there perfectly. I don't have a drill press, but I have a vise and try to use a steady hand. That should leave me a little bit of Dremel work to clean the rest out. Looks like I need to order a knot. Might as well restore another old brush I have laying around as well, since I'm ordering knots.
- Thread starter
- #17
The handle is now ready for a new knot. The 7/8" Forster bit couldn't have been more perfect. It fit in the hole with just a tad of room to spare. The stuff the Razorock bristles are set in seems to be some sort of white polymer. It was hard and would never have come out with any means other than drilling.
After the Forster, I got rid of the remaining stuff using a Dremel with a bit that has a bunch of teeth around the circumference. It chewed out the stuff the Forster didn't get on the sides. Then I polished up the sides using a Dremel wire wheel. It's now ready to go.
The first two photos are after the Forster. The remaining photos are after the grinding and polishing.
After the Forster, I got rid of the remaining stuff using a Dremel with a bit that has a bunch of teeth around the circumference. It chewed out the stuff the Forster didn't get on the sides. Then I polished up the sides using a Dremel wire wheel. It's now ready to go.
The first two photos are after the Forster. The remaining photos are after the grinding and polishing.
I guess I'm late to the party but I still have a few comments. I have both succeeded and failed trying to steam out knots with plastic handles and I no longer try. I would think you would be safe with aluminum as you found out.
For the final clean out I use a Dremel drum sander. I also use a Dremel drum sander when enlarging a hole to fit a larger knot.
Please post a picture of your finished brush.
For the final clean out I use a Dremel drum sander. I also use a Dremel drum sander when enlarging a hole to fit a larger knot.
Please post a picture of your finished brush.
- Thread starter
- #19
Will do. I ordered a 22mm Super High Density two-band Badger bulb knot from Maggards over the weekend. This will be the first time that have used them as a knot supplier, as I usually The Golden Nib. Now that I check The Golden Nib's website, I should have ordered from them as they're much less expensive than Maggards.
Although I really like the knots I have bought from The Golden Nib, I don't think they have anything that compares to the supper high density knot you bought from Maggards. I have not tried the SHD, but I have bought a few of their finest knots and found them so nice that I cannot imagine the need for the SHD. Many people here have told me I don't know what I'm missing. The point is, all indications are that it is a superior knot.
