How long until I should go for a 3 pass shave

[OtterLunacy]

Something that everyone forgot to mention: don't relentlessly chase BBS. It's a bit overrated. What you should chase are better shaves overall. As you get better you'll probably start getting a few BBS shaves here and there--with less stress and irritation. Also, stop thinking in 90s: there's 360 degrees of approach angles out there, so it'd be a darn shame if you only tried four of 'em. Lastly, if you want a new razor, go for it. But understand that you almost certainly don't "need" it to get the job done.

Good luck and enjoy the RAD/SSAD/SBAD!

 

[Jeff10236]

For today's shave I had a day and a half growth, and I have a fairly heavy beard (I usually shave daily, I shaved yesterday morning and only got to today's shave about 20min ago). Since the Israeli made store brand blades (aka Personna Reds) have worked so well the first 2 times, and since on today's shave the first 2 passes were so comfortable, I decided to go for a 3rd pass. I probably should have used a new blade (instead of the third use on the current blade) so I know for sure how much is the blade and how much is getting ambitious enough to go for a 3rd pass. It wasn't bad, but my face was more irritated than the past two shaves or my 2-pass shaves with an Astra SP blade, and I did get three minor cuts (one went away just with cold water, two needed the steptic pencil or alum). All in all, it wasn't too bad though and definitely a big step up than even my two pass shaves with a Derby a week or two ago. I did not do a touch up. Also, I didn't use my mild Edwin Jagger but I used my slightly more aggressive Parker 76r. I don't think it will be long before I can do a comfortable 3-pass shave with touch ups, though, 2 passes really does get me a good shave and I don't really need a BBS shave (maybe once I have it down, I'll do the 2 pass shave for a typical workday shave, and save the 3-pass for date nights).

 

[Old beard]

If you are happy with a two pass shave stay with it. Who says that you have to do x number if pass. Why do you think you need a BBS? Do what you like.

 

[BigJ]

So, I haven't been at this long (under 3 weeks DE shaving). I am at the point that I can consistently get a nice close shave (closer than 2 or 3 passes with a cartridge) after 2 passes (1 WTG, 1 XTG) and a touch up, and after two passes I get no cuts and little to no irritation. When I go for the 3rd pass, and especially if I go against the grain, I often get a cut or two and at least a minor weeper, and I always get irritation (though not as bad as with my 4 and 5 blade cartridges). I suppose one answer is to simply "put up with" the very good shave but not BBS and stop at 2 passes and waiting a while to try a 3 pass shave again. I guess another is to keep trying the 3 pass shave and ATG pass every couple shaves until I get better at it (I'm much better at it than when I started). What is the "correct" answer?

Welcome!

I do not think there is a 'correct' answer. Your are not required to do 3, 4 or any number of passes. Totally YMMV.

 

[Jeff10236]

I did my best 3 pass shave yet. I also kind of threw out the rules today. Since I didn't shave until about 10:30pm I didn't do any pre-shave treatment, no pre-shave oil, no hot towel, I didn't even wash my face first. I didn't use a good brush based cream or soap, I used Cremo. I wasn't totally happy with how the Cremo was going on and lathering just using my hands so I did use my Perfecto badger brush to face lather to get the lather going. It was my 5th time using this particular Astra SP blade in my Edwin Jagger de86. After two comfortable passes (1st WTG, 2nd XTG) I decided to try a third (ATG), and I had almost no irritation. For post shave, almost no sting from the alum told me I did something right, followed by my cheaper aftershave (Nivea Sensitive AS balm). I'm sure next time it will burn like heck, but this time I did it right.

 

[OtterLunacy]

Great! You're definitely on the right track here. I see two important variables that have changed: first, the prep. Second, the shave cream. Based on this, you might want to give cold water shaving a try, or at least skipping the wash/hot towel. Also, you might want to take another look at how you are building lather. Lather can have a huge impact on the shave. On top of that, the difference between "meh" and "awesome!" can be pretty minor.

 

[Badgerstate36]

When you get to where you dont nick yourself going with the grain and across the grain, then Id go for against the grain. When I first started trying ATG, I got some horrible weepers and irritation. It takes time to develop the feel for the proper pressure and technique to go ATG without turning yourself into a bloody mess. (Ok, Im being dramatic but you get the point)

 

[Houdini5150]

Keep trying and lather up if its 'dry' Im new as well so Ive been trying that and still working on technique

 

[hcoop112]

Since day one i have done 3 pass...at first it was nicks cuts slices of chin...rashes...razor burns the works...now its like nothing i havnt had a slip for a long time...one thing i will stress...press lightly...very lightly...but just enough to cut the hair...one you can get angles and a feather touch down pack its all downhill..took me a month...maybe two to stop the bad stuff..eveeyone is different though

 

[alex2363]

If you're comfortable with it, keep doing it. It will improve with practice as your technique develops.

+1

 

[Jeff10236]

Great! You're definitely on the right track here. I see two important variables that have changed: first, the prep. Second, the shave cream. Based on this, you might want to give cold water shaving a try, or at least skipping the wash/hot towel.

I'm not going to regularly go with the little prep shave since part of why I got into all this is that I have sensitive skin (especially the goatee areas where it has been years since I had shaved them). But, I may change things up more often (such as, using cold water pre and during shave) to see how things go.

Also, you might want to take another look at how you are building lather. Lather can have a huge impact on the shave. On top of that, the difference between "meh" and "awesome!" can be pretty minor.

Funny you say that. After getting my Semogue boar brush, I noticed that it held a lot more water (after shaking) than my badgers and my first attempt at lather adding my normal water was way too thin and I had to start over. From there, I decided to go back on You Tube and see how others lathered. I think I may have been using too much water with most of my soaps/creams and the past couple lathers have been much better than before. Getting that 'just right' consistency of not too wet and not too dry is definitely an art (and part of the fun).

 

[Maritime Storm]

Depends on you're faces unique characteristics. I always do a 3 pass, 2 WTG & 1 ATG, most days it works for me, some days my neck has some redness, usually it is a day when I'm using an aggressive OC.

 

[musicman1951]

First and most important: blood is an indication that you need to do something differently. There is no part of shaving that requires weepers.

There is no hurry, so you can wait as long as you like. When you decide to try again, pay attention to your technique and try to figure out where it goes wrong. It's almost always either pressure or blade angle.

There is one more consideration: many of us have areas of the face that simply will not tolerate ATG without weepers or irritation. Mine is my upper lip. As suggested, you might find another XTG pass in the opposite direction fruitful. You might like blade buffing. Whatever works for you is good.

 

[Jeff10236]

So, yesterday I got my RazoRock OLD Type Open Comb. When I shaved yesterday evening, my plan was to do just two passes (WTG and XTG) since it is a more aggressive razor than I've been using* and while I'm getting better with the 3rd ATG pass, it is inconsistent. Well, I was enjoying my shave and my first two passes were so comfortable, I decided to go with the 3rd ATG pass. While there was some irritation, it wasn't bad at all (and certainly better than my 4 or 5 blade cartridges), and there were no cuts. Actually, it may take a few more shaves to be sure, but this <$20 razor may actually become my favorite quite quickly if it continues to perform as it did yesterday.

I'm definitely not consistent with the 3rd ATG pass, but I am a lot better at it overall. I guess I'll continue to just do the 2 pass shave when shaving on weekday mornings since I consistently can do that without any cuts or weepers and I don't want to go to work with any marks on my face (my cuts and weepers have been mild enough to leave little to no evidence once the bleeding stops, but I don't want to take chances). Then, on weekends and when I shave in the evening I may continue with the 3 pass ATG passes to practice until I have them down and can consistently do them with little to no irritation and no blood.

*I was assuming that an OC would be more aggressive. I'm not sure aggressive is the right word since it was a very comfortable razor, maybe more efficient would be the right word for that razor. In fact, if I continue to have that blend of shave comfort and closeness, I'll be trying other OC razors a lot sooner than I planned.

 

[Stingy Jack]

I had a different approach to it. I just started with a 3 pass and if I got irritation then clearly I was doing something wrong. I think the best way to learn something is to do it with no shortcuts and just learn from your mistakes.
Obviously YMMV

 

[OtterLunacy]

*I was assuming that an OC would be more aggressive. I'm not sure aggressive is the right word since it was a very comfortable razor, maybe more efficient would be the right word for that razor. In fact, if I continue to have that blend of shave comfort and closeness, I'll be trying other OC razors a lot sooner than I planned.

My understanding is that OC is a bit more aggressive than an identical razor with a bar. But other properties are far more important in how aggressive the razor is, like blade gap and exposure. My Merkur 1904 OC is definitely not aggressive, though I don't think its considered very efficient either.

 

[cruise_bone]

The more passes you go, the more important it is to keep your face WET. Rinse the razor with every stroke (or series of little strokes).

 

[Maritime Storm]

Otter & Jeff10236; An OC isn't necessarily more aggressive. Just like a safety bar, an OC can be mild(Parker 26c) or Aggressive(Muhle R41) and all points in between.

 

[Jeff10236]

Here's where I seem to be now...

I can't quite do 3 passes consistently without irritation or cuts/weepers. However, I can often do a comfortable 3 pass shave.

I can do better than a 2 pass shave consistently though. I can regularly do a 2 pass shave (WTG/XTG) plus a spot ATG touch up where a touch up is needed (but not over my entire face) comfortably with little to no irritation and no blood. I can do this with everything from my most mild RR DE1, to my mild to medium EJ and Maggards v3, to my slightly more aggressive Parker 76r and RR OLD Type OC. The only razor I own that I don't (only because I haven't used it at all yet) is my Merkur 38c.

My 2 pass plus ATG touch up gets me a BBS or near BBS shave so I don't really need the full 3 pass. However, since it seems to be the "norm" I will shoot for getting to where I can do a comfortable 3 pass shave. I will continue to practice the 3 pass shave every so often until I can get to a full 3 pass, and maybe a 3 pass plus touch up, with comfort.

 

[Maritime Storm]

"However, since it seems to be the "norm" I will shoot for getting to where I can do a comfortable 3 pass shave. "

Why? If you are getting BBS from your 2 pass, why push for a 3rd pass? If things work well for you with 2, I wouldn't worry about a third because "it is the norm". This is a very YMMV activity, what works for me, may not for you, and vice-versa.