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I just bought a 5/8ths Boker Paua with a French point and a hollow grind. It finally came in the mail today and I decided to give it a go. Boy do I have to say that I learned a lot.

Everything went well with the exception of knowing I likely need to get the blade honed and I need to change out the shaving soap. I was using Henry Cavendish Himalaya Shaving Soap I purchased off of Amazon and I have to say, I really didn’t like it so I got a refund. I got a bit of lather out of it but it felt like it was going to be more work than it needed to be to get it where I wanted it. The good thing is a pack of Taylor of Old Bond Street was delivered to my house today and I can’t wait to try that out.

I did nick myself along my jawline, but it wasn’t too bad. It helped me to learn about styptic pencils and alum blocks which I just ordered today as well.

If anyone has any tips, I’m all ears. I intend on returning everything I bought from Razor Emporium like the Red and Black paste in addition to the extra canvas strop I bought. I may even return the leather strop and look into a new one if someone has a recommendation for a better one.
 
Congrats on your first shave! :badger:

I wouldn't bother returning the strop: you are likely to cut up your first one, so unless it was expensive, keep it to learn on and when you have made all your inevitable mistakes, buy a nice one from Tony Miller.

Lather is more important with a straight, in my experience: focus on slickness, not volume. There are lots of great options, check out this thread for ideas:


The best advice I got when I started was, "you'll figure it out." Straight shaving is a personal journey, just put in the time and you'll develop your own approach. It's a hell of a ride, and a lot of fun. :)
 
Thanks man. You see any need to hold onto the extra canvas strops or paste? And the leather one I bought I think cost me about $85 I think. Not sure if that’s expensive or not 🤷🏾‍♂️

I also like that advice 😉
 
Typically, you'll strop with leather before the shave, and a cloth (linen, cotton, hemp) after the shave. The canvas is really designed for paste, which is something I have no experience with so someone else can chime in on that.

$85 will get you a nice strop from Tony, so you could always send yours back and message Tony about a Beginners Strop with replaceable components.
 
Thanks again. I’ve never heard of Tony so I just tried to look him up. Does he own the Heirloom website? Depending on the return process, I may just end up ordering from him as I’d rather support small business instead.

Also, can you tell me what the general feeling is towards Razor Emporium? Their YouTube videos have been very helpful which is why I bought from them. All their parts to the strops are replaceable too.
 

Antique Hoosier

“Aircooled”

You seem like a patient but enthusiastic learner that is headed in the right direction. I am fortunate to begin very much like you did, step by step. I recall viewing this video when it was released over a decade ago which was helpful even after I had hundreds of shaves preformed. You will glean at least a couple I’m sure as well. Some of this gentleman’s technique I’d call more advanced but the point is how he approaches the overall aspect of preparing and enjoying a great straight razor shave.

Keep being positive!
 
Thanks Tony, I just looked into their return policy and think I’ll return the things I didn’t use and will keep you in mind for any future orders. I’m just a bit bummed I found out I would’ve been eligible for a discount had I read their policy sooner lol. All good though, I’m happy to be here!

Would you happen to know if your strop components are interchangeable with most other strops on the market of the same size or are their usually variations amongst different vendors?
 
Get the razor honed by someone that knows how to hone a good edge. I usually send people to @Bayamontate for honing work.

Good soap is a requirement but equally important is the quality of lather. Even good soap can produce junky lather when the user's skills aren't on-point.

Watching videos of people shaving never helped me learn anything. Shaving is hand/eye coordination and muscle memory. Gotta do it, pay attention, and figure out where things aren't going well and why - then fix them.
For example, there are a lot of ways to go against the grain. The right one for you will come to you when you figure out your whisker grain and the rest of the basics. It's not rocket science, mostly its repetition and paying attention.

Always respect the blade but don't fear it.

Keep it simple, it's just shaving. And always have fun!
 
I like your style. I’m very prone to razor bumps and have reduced them greatly over the years. They’re times I have to shave in a pinch for work and have to use whatever I can get my hands so I’ll end up regretting it the next day. I’m sure one of these days though, I’ll play around with different techniques and see how well they work out for me.

Speaking of @Bayamontate, he’s the whole reason I got signed up on here. He’s relatively local to me but I have no idea how to get in contact with him and even after 10 posts, I don’t see the option to send someone a private message.
 
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firebox

Thanks for reminding me how I got started. A good blade, honed properly, will give mediocre results unless the beard prep is good. Warm prep and good soap is paramount. About twenty passes on a strop works. I use a Tony Miller paddle strop when I hone. I use a vintage Russian horsehide strop (ebay) for shaving. I personally prefer vintage Sheffield blades. The steel just seems smoother. Regardless of the make, age, or compostion of the steel, if the blade isn't sharp , it isn't worth a damn. I prefer Sheffield, I have some Japanese blades, one German blade, and several Swedish blades along with several customs. They are all good shavers and they are all sharp. That is the key. Good blades, proper prep, and its all good. Good luck and don't hesitate on buying vintage blades. They can be some of the best. If you get into this deep, spend a couple of hundred dollars on the right stones (I like Shaptons) and you can resurrect your own blades as well as keeping them ready to give a smooth shave.
 
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firebox

I forgot to mention, If you don't want to learn how to sharpen your own blades, or spend the money on the hones, you can find someoe to put an edge on one a for twenty bucks or so. Unless inflation has hit this adventure also. As a beginner, don't underestimate the value of a styptic pencil and witch hazel. My first straight shave took me forty minutes sweating like a " fill in the blank" . Now, just second nature. Good luck!
 
It's probably just a timing thing. The perms will be rolled over during the next 24 hours I'd imagine.
It finally updated and I was able to send a message thankfully. Now it’s a waiting game at this point.

Thanks for reminding me how I got started. A good blade, honed properly, will give mediocre results unless the beard prep is good. Warm prep and good soap is paramount. About twenty passes on a strop works. I use a Tony Miller paddle strop when I hone. I use a vintage Russian horsehide strop (ebay) for shaving. I personally prefer vintage Sheffield blades. The steel just seems smoother. Regardless of the make, age, or compostion of the steel, if the blade isn't sharp , it isn't worth a damn. I prefer Sheffield, I have some Japanese blades, one German blade, and several Swedish blades along with several customs. They are all good shavers and they are all sharp. That is the key. Good blades, proper prep, and it’s all good. Good luck and don't hesitate on buying vintage blades. They can be some of the best. If you get into this deep, spend a couple of hundred dollars on the right stones (I like Shaptons) and you can resurrect your own blades as well as keeping them ready to give a smooth shave.
I have absolutely nothing against the 2nd hand market but feel like it was something I just couldn’t get into. When I buy something, I usually tend to hold onto it long term with some intentions of passing it down to my children as they get older. I take a lot of pride in the mistakes I’ve made with learning something new. I invested a decent amount into a 2nd bicycle I anticipated purchasing for years and scratched it up a little bit after my first ride. I was a bit bothered by it, but love the fact that I can say that‘s my bike and I made that scratch as I would if I was to ding up my straight edge just a little bit.

However, you make a valid point that may make me want to look into the vintage market. A lot of these blades aren’t made the same way anymore and may offer a different experience. That’s something I’m open to. You make a Sheffield sound pretty tempting. Thanks for the feedback.
 
I forgot to mention, If you don't want to learn how to sharpen your own blades, or spend the money on the hones, you can find someoe to put an edge on one a for twenty bucks or so. Unless inflation has hit this adventure also. As a beginner, don't underestimate the value of a styptic pencil and witch hazel. My first straight shave took me forty minutes sweating like a " fill in the blank" . Now, just second nature. Good luck!
I fully intend on getting a sharpening stone at some point as I have some kitchen knives I’d like to touch up on as well. (Full disclosure, I understand sharpening knives and honing straight edges take 2 completely different techniques.

The styptic pencils and alum block just came in today :biggrin1: lol
 
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firebox

Yep, forgot the alum, I have a block. fortunately I don't remeber the last time I used it. Kitchen knives and razors. Both need sharpening. both have different techiniques. Kitchen knives will never need a > 10K grit stone. You also won't shave with kitchen knives, the edge geometry is so much different. Razors are honed flat on the stones. Some including me, use a layer of tape to mitigate spine wear. Kitchen knives use an entirely different (30 degree?) angle. After sharpening razors, I find it challenging to go back to sharpening knives, but that s just me. If you have a blade that needs a bevel established, I recommend you start at 1K grit. From there, 4K, 8K, Coticule, JNAT, or 12k to finish. Regarding acquisition of the stones, as the grit increases so does the price. I've done this for about 20 plus years and I got the stones as I progressed just to learn and rely on my own skills to keep my blades sharp. I'm no expert, but I can find and hone my own blades. There is some satisfaction in that. Everyone has their own techniques and goals. It is not my intent to overload you with info, but you asked! Cheers..
 
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firebox

Just saw your last post. Enjoyed your bicycle reference. I bought road bike frame and built mine. So, I hear you.
Other than some customs,by Max Sprecher, Tim Zowada, Bill Ellis, and Robert Williams all of my blades are pre-1900 except for two Japanese blades (1960's) . Explore the older blades. Some can be had at really good prices and require only clean up and polish. Exotic scales, grinds, engravings, are quite intriguing. I'm really like the old wedges, half hollows, and I'm always on the hunt for a good blade with antique elephant ivory scales. Finding them without cracks are the cherries.
 
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