DIY aftershaves - experiences and links?

[Jens]

Greetings Gentlemen..!

I am consider venturing into the fine art of creating my own aftershaves. I got inspired by reading about the Stirling company.
I wonder what sort of inspiration and help one might be able to get here at BB.
Anyone out there with experiences -- recommendations -- links to good recipes, vendors of good ingredients? And, is there already a forum here at BB dedicated specifically to this topic?
Cheers

 

[65Mustang]

I like to mix up my own stuff just for fun. Just my experience from playing with mixtures and reading things online. i.e. no guarantees

I make alcohol based aftershaves. No experience with any aqueous versions. I also like to add menthol, but that's just my preference.

My Kit Consists of: Everclear, Witch Hazel (alcohol based version), glycerol, Vitamin E, Euclapytus Oil, Menthol Crystals, Essential Oils (starter kits cheaply available on amazon), small plastic 100ml containers (from amazon), and a small kitchen scale.

I mix Everclear:Witch Hazel at about 4:1, and then add in smaller amounts of the other ingredients (oils, humectants) as desired. I like a menthol kick, so I usually add that in at about 1-2% by weight. Shake it up and give the menthol a couple of hours to fully incorporate.

 

[Guido75]

I think this is a good a place as any to start:

Bootlegger's Brigands!

Anyone who's a fan of any of the Bootlegger's mixes...post here! Thanks, OkieStubble! Formulas for all of the mixes will be posted soon.

www.badgerandblade.com

And @OkieStubble or @never-stop-learning might be able to give some additional guidance.

Cheers,

Guido

 

[OkieStubble]

Yeah, I don’t think what I do and what the OP is looking to do is the same thing….

 

[Jens]

Yeah, I don’t think what I do and what the OP is looking to do is the same thing….

I think this is correct. I want to try mixing aftershaves from scratch using basic ingredients. As far as I can tell from the link above, you are making new concoctions by mixing different commercially available aftershaves. Interesting project, but not the one I have in mind.

 

[NorthernSoul]

As a starting point, I'd look at the ingredient lists for some of the better aftershaves out there and see if you can come close.

Speick Men
Proraso Green
Myrsol

Here's an interesting table showing ingredients (INCI) for the Myrsol aftershave line, in order of their percentage in the product:

That chart appeared on the website thepleasureofshaving.com.

 

[Jens]

As a starting point, I'd look at the ingredient lists for some of the better aftershaves out there

Good idea! That's exactly what I have been doing. In fact, I just studied that Myrsol chart carefully very recently before I ordered some Myrsols. But the experience of being mostly underwhelmed once I received the products, and having paid a hefty price, just reminded me that it's time to take matters more in my own hands. I want to pay less, and have more of a say in what's in my aftershaves. At least I hope to achieve a better understanding of aftershave contents and effects, if nothing else this project should help me do that. The interesting thing I have read about Stirling is, they highlight "few" ingredients as a quality. Like the saying goes, "less is more". So I'm thinking, how hard can it be to brew up some good aftershaves .... And if you screw it up, just brew another one. Way cheaper than relying exclusively on ready made ones.

 

[NorthernSoul]

You'll notice a pattern for the alcohol based aftershaves. Alcohol and water make up the majority of the ingredients. Supplemental ingredients are there mainly for moisturizing and fragrance. Some aftershave have an astringent component, as well.

For moisturizing (humectant ingredients), most use glycerin (aka glycerol). Some use sugar alcohols such as sorbitol. You may see things like polysorbate instead.

For fragrance, essential oils are common. Many aftershaves use synthetic fragrances, too.

I've made a decent aftershave using about 60% ethyl alcohol, distilled water, Dickenson's witch hazel and vegetable glycerin. For fragrance, I added a small amount of Alvarez Gomez Agua de Colonia Concentrada.

 

[Jens]

Speaking of the Myrsols though, I found the "Metisol" to be a very pleasant surprise. It contains alum, has a nice astringent effect, I can't recall having tried an aftershave splash with alum in it before. Very nice, and super simple to add yourself. The Metisol also contains menthol, and herbs, very nice scent with notes of thyme, rosemary and lavender (again, very simple to make yourself). Of all the Myrsols I tried, that's the one I would recommend.

 

[Jens]

Supplemental ingredients are there mainly for moisturizing and fragrance. Some aftershave have an astringent component, as well.

Don't forget the menthol ..! I love menthol!

 

[Jens]

You'll notice a pattern for the alcohol based aftershaves. Alcohol and water make up the majority of the ingredients. Supplemental ingredients are there mainly for moisturizing and fragrance. Some aftershave have an astringent component, as well.

A main challenge I foresee, is figuring proportions out.
Unlike the ingredients themselves ("which"), proportions ("how much") are hardly ever listed on commercial aftershaves (other than ranked in order of most to least).
Do you have any experience or advice in this regard (or links to recipes)?

 

[TinkersDam]

Perfume making sites should provide some useful information. Some sites even list recipes for basic aftershaves.

 

[corlay]

Just found this timely thread.
I've been thinking about trying to make a splash to pair with MdC Original.
Everclear, witch hazel, glycerine, menthol
and then essential oils of: Mint, Lavender, Rosemary; and maybe just a touch of Citrus

There are some commercially available splashes out there that probably fit well with Original,
but they all have a Thyme component, too - which I know I wouldnt be too fond of.
(Myrsol Balsamic is a common pairing cited here)

Been using Speick splash with Original - and it compliments well and in the right way for me (springtime, herbal, fresh),
but making my own does intrigue me...

So, thanks for starting this thread, and I'll be watching for more guidance if it appears...

 

[Frank Shaves]

Bump.

@Jens and @corlay, Did you guys ever have any success in making your own aftershave?

I am unable to find a simple lime aftershave splash that is not a balm or does not contain witch hazel. I want to combine alcohol, water, lime essential oil and perhaps glycerin, menthol and sorbitol. Sorbitol seems to be a humectant to keep things moist.

I already have 190 proof Everclear grain alcohol, ethyl rubbing alcohol (70%) and vegetable glycerin in the house, so all I need is lime essential oil to make my first batch.

 

[Jens]

I didn't, yet.
I added menthol crystals to a couple of brand aftershaves, and got the dosage way off target... Crazy menthol kick....
That put me off the project for the time being... But I have most ingredients already, so one of these days...

 

[Sideburns]

I found an aftershave online that I've been using for the last two months. It's based on a 50/50 mix of aloe vera and witch hazel, making it very thick. It's also got a bit of glycerin in it and Tea Tree, Lemon, Lime and Rosemary oils for scent. About 1/8 tsp is more than enough for me and I have to wash some off of my hands afterwards but it makes my face feel good. I'm getting some Cedar oil as well to add as I want a deeper scent than I have right now. If you're interested, I can post the current formula.

 

[Frank Shaves]

I did a bunch of research and decided to do it myself (DIM), starting with what I have on hand.

This evening I mixed 2 parts Everclear 190-proof grain alcohol to 1 part distilled water and applied the solution after shaving. Got a decent kick from the alcohol. Last night I ordered lavender, lime, peppermint and rosemary essential oils. Plus I already have glycerin. I will probably buy some menthol crystals this week. This should keep me busy for a while.

 

[ChevronDad]

Splashing (pun intended) my two cents into the discussion.

I ventured into making my own aftershave some time ago. Same as shave cream, pre-shave oil and beard oil (had too much spare time during covid....) Planning to revisit them shortly, but to keep the discussion alive:

I found a few recipes on this subject. The most viable for soothing and moisturizing purposes (my opinion) was this:

- 3 tablespoons of witch hazel
- 2 teaspoons of aloe vera gel
- 1 teaspoon of glycerine
- essential oils to each's own taste, total amount ca. 10-12 drops

Now, you could make a more generalized recipe for ratios:
- The category "Liquids" would be a total of 3 tablespoons (45ml) - 50ml. This can be all alcohol, all witch hazel or anything in between. Some might even throw distilled water into the mix.
- Aloe vera gel and glycerine as "Healers and moisturizers" would constitute a total of 1 tablespoon (15ml). Ratios between them can vary.
- Essential oils with soothing and energizing qualities are best-suited. 10 drop(ish) gave a nice scent but it doesn't last for too long. More is more, so if you desire longevity, add more. Bearing in mind that EOs have a limit of safe dilution rate for topical use and some are photo-toxic, meaning they react with UV light and cause skin burns.

Personal notes:
- I would not use alcohol in any form. Even the witch hazel would preferably be of non-alcohol variation. I found my skin not working well with it, dried up like raisins... My only omission is with essential oils, see below. But, again, to each their own!
- Same goes to water. You can view it as a moisturizer but it takes room from actual working ingredients and gives back very little.
- Aloe vera gel could and has indeed been replaced by some with leaf extract. Have not tried it but sounds legit. You could start with similar amount than here, though the juice variation is usually more potent than the gel version. Trial and error, I'd say.
- The omission: EOs. The latter don't really mix with non-alcohol base, at least without some additives. This might come to play when the solution is used over a period of time and EOs are either making their way out too soon or staying behind because of poor mix. Alcohol, however, is a great solvent and readily available here! I remember seeing a clip from an amateur-perfumer testing different bases for perfumery. It took some 4mls of 190-proof alcohol to completely solve 25 drops of EOs. So the needed amount here, even with more potency, is something like 5-7% of the total amount. One could say it is manageable but if you are stead-fast on not using it, not mandatory. Just shake well, every time.


Love to hear your thoughts!

 

[mladenius]

I just buy regular alcohol (70%) and glycerine in pharmacy store, dilute it with regular water for 60% strength (you can find proportions - google it) and add couple of drops of glycerine. You can also buy menthol crystals at the same place and add it in mixture for cooling effect (don't go overboard with menthol, add a little for starters until you find what suits you best). All these items are dirty cheap.
This mixture will have slight hint of menthol and alcohol but it will dissipate as soon as applied.
It's basically scentless but you can add essential oils for the scent (I didn't). Pine, mint or eucalyptus will probably go fine with menthol.
You can also add witch hazel, panthenol or some other skin care ingredient to your liking in the mix. I like the basic one with glycerine only.

Works great and as good or better than any commercial aftershave with alcohol.

Here, they charge 20$ for basically same stuff even without glycerine, in fancy bottle and with sound brand name.

Fine Snake Bite Aftershave - https://fineaccoutrements.com/fine-snake-bite-aftershave/

 

[Frank Shaves]

The essential oils arrived, so I added lime essential oil and glycerin to the grain alcohol and distilled water. Nice face feel, but the alcohol kick is a tad weak. The lime essential oil smells fantastic, but the scent level is too light. So I added more alcohol and lime essential oil to the mix and am keeping track of each change in a spreadsheet.

I have already learned one lesson: you need to let the essential oil sit in the alcohol for a while for the scent to fully bloom. I had seen this on the Internet but had not experienced the effect.

I also bought some menthol crystals but have not tried them yet. One step at a time.

So far, the process seems simple and similar to learning to make cocktails - the ones you drink.