I've used a Lodge 10" skillet for years with wonderfull results, since reading the posts on this thread, I now have an antique Griswold #3 on the way. I don't know if I should thank you people or damn you for giving me another AD.
Do you have a source for this information? I'd like to read it.One caveat I haven't seen mentioned but is worth noting. With the recent resurgence in cast iron cookware, you will find some cheap "knock off" brands. Typically these are made in China and many have tested positive for lead.
Do you have a source for this information? I'd like to read it.
Cooks illustrated had an article this past issue on using flax seed oil as a seasoning agent.
They highly recommended it.
Really? Interesting. Don't see why not. I used to use Crisco but for the last several years I've just been using olive oil. I tend to wipe it down with olive oil after use anyway so if I'm "seasoning" I just pop them in the oven after that. Works great.
Any specific benefits they cited for flax seed oil?
Ken
Cooks illustrated had an article this past issue on using flax seed oil as a seasoning agent.
They highly recommended it.
One more Lodge fan here- can't beat them for browning meats or cooking up some killer bacon on a Sunday morning. They'll last several generations if cared for properly.
Cooks illustrated had an article this past issue on using flax seed oil as a seasoning agent.
They highly recommended it.
Did they differentiate between using flax seed oil (as one would purchase refrigerated at a natural foods type store) and/or using "raw" linseed oil (as we would use on our Cricket bats) or "boiled linseed oil (like we would use on our tool handles)?
Bill
Care must be taken with flax seed oil as this is also known as linseed oil. A very very useful product but one which is prone to spontaneous combustion of the paper towel, cloth, or other things used to apply this oil. You don't just ball up the cloth you used . . . you rinse well and spread it out flat in a safe place to dry.
Mike
+ a whole lot
Yes, this is true and a VERY good idea. It is the curing of any oil gives off heat, even common oils. Boiled linseed is simply more vigorous about it. Put a rock on the rag and place it in the drive till hard, then trash. You can also burn the rag, but that is a problem for many people as you need a safe place to burn it.
A side note, commercial "boiled" linseed oil is not actually boiled. It is treated with chemical dryers to create a similar effect as boiling does. These chemical dryers are best to not have in your diet.
Phil
All linseed oil is sicative or drying. What this means is that it does not cure by evaporation but by polymerization. It creates an elastic polymer when exposed to oxygen this chemical reaction generates some heat which is what can cause combustion in a pile of rags. The fats typically used to cure cast iron are not. Raw linseed oil, whether extracted by certified food safe means or not, will cure just as boiled but will take 1-3 weeks to obtain a full cure, as opposed to 1 day depending on ambient conditions. I imagine that a thin layer exposed to heat would in effect accelerate the process and render the oil, in effect, boiled. Whether or not this is a good idea for cast iron to cook with I have no idea.
I do know that highly polymerized linseed oil fully homogenized with beeswax makes an attractive and historically accurate coating for raw cast iron hardware and architectural fittings.