BrianWithAnI: Shave Journal

[BrianWithAnI]

Shave 2023-08-22

Razor: Blackland Vector Ti with Gillette Common Bar Handle

Blade: Schick Proline P (2)

Brush: TRBH with Muhle STF 23mm with 55mm loft

Lather: Arko Shave Soap

Prep: Wash with Badger Shave Soap

Post-shave: Chiseled Face Natural Aftershave Balm; T.N. Dickinson’s Witch Hazel

Shave Pass Actions:

1. N-S
2. ATG
3. Clean up: J-hook neck and BB on cheeks and chin

Shave Summary: DFS

Comments:

Great shave this morning. Back to products I know very well. I wasn’t able to obtain my best Arko this morning, but it was still good enough. In retrospect, as I continue to get better using some of my newer products, there are at least three I have used recently that I might be able to get dialed in to have the performance as good as I get from Arko. This is if I can get better cushion from each of them by reducing hydration from my previous mixes slightly. Those are, in no particular order:

1. Pedro Fiasco’s Legendary Shave Soap
2. PAA CK-6 (I under-estimated this one my first attempt; second attempt was much better.)
3. Stirling Unscented with Beeswax

My face is improving. A couple (of quite a few) possible reasons for my face issues include retinol in the new night-time face cream and the banana cube. I started having issues exactly when I began the banana cube, so eventually I’ll try using it on one of my arms and see what happens. I’m hopeful it’s not the beeswax in the Stirling, since I’m really interested to try to see what it’s like with slightly less water. Going to use products I understand for a few more days until everything is all better.

Funny thing, I’m always telling my wife about shaving, but it’s not clear how much she is actually paying attention and how much she’s acting like she’s paying attention to be nice. But as soon as she saw my face yesterday, she asked “So you’re going to go back to just using Arko again for awhile, right?” I guess she’s processing more of my shaving talk than I thought.

The Techtanium arrived today. It’s definitely very small and light, weighing 17g. I wish it had a bit more grip. I think I miss the ~11mm diameter of the common bar already, but it might just be the lack of grip and hopefully I can adjust. The threads are on the loose side, but it feels good snugged up. Definitely using the nylon washer due to how short this thing is and because tightening a titanium handle against a titanium base plate feels as bad as fingernails on a chalkboard.

Based on some minor, non-rigorous experimentation, I suspect the Vector (partial) post threads’ outer diameter are not on the larger side of the tolerance. The pitches of 10-32 and M5 are very close, I think they differ by .006 mm. The Vector post is short to begin with, then add the 1mm nylon M5 washer and you don’t need to turn the handle that many revolutions along the post to snug it up to the washer. I’m inclined to think this head works on many 10-32 handles (and even more if you rotated an M5 chaser the appropriate number of revolutions of the handle’s threads before hand).

Thanks for reading!

 

[Buttercup]

Good Evening, Brian!

The Techtanium arrived today. It’s definitely very small and light, weighing 17g. I wish it had a bit more grip. I think I miss the ~11mm diameter of the common bar already, but it might just be the lack of grip and hopefully I can adjust.

That's a sweet looking handle on the Vector Ti head! The slimmer handle just seems to fit with the slim design of the head. I'm sure once you start using it and practice your different holds/grips that you will find it grippy enough!

Funny thing, I’m always telling my wife about shaving, but it’s not clear how much she is actually paying attention and how much she’s acting like she’s paying attention to be nice. But as soon as she saw my face yesterday, she asked “So you’re going to go back to just using Arko again for awhile, right?” I guess she’s processing more of my shaving talk than I thought.

That paragraph finished in a much different direction than I imagined it going. Sounds like your wife is at least paying some attention.

If I were to talk shaving to Madam Chairwoman, I imagine this is what it would look like and how I would sound to her.

Be well, my friend!

 

[huck1680]

"Funny thing, I’m always telling my wife about shaving, but it’s not clear how much she is actually paying attention and how much she’s acting like she’s paying attention to be nice. But as soon as she saw my face yesterday, she asked “So you’re going to go back to just using Arko again for awhile, right?” I guess she’s processing more of my shaving talk than I thought".

With my Missus all she notices is if I'm bleeding or not. I've put her to sleep with some of my shaving reminisces before.

 

[BrianWithAnI]

Hi everyone,

Sorry for the absence. I have missed everyone here.

Work stuff has been taking much of my attention. I just finished up some shave reports from my shave notes this week and will post them momentarily.

I'm looking forward to trying to catch up a bit, but I've still got some work to attend to this evening.

Best,
Brian

 

[BrianWithAnI]

Shave 2023-08-23 - A Rather Punctilious Vector Techtanium

Razor: Blackland Vector Ti head + Alpha Techtanium handle

Blade: Schick Proline P (3)

Brush: TRBH with Muhle STF at 55mm loft

Lather: A&E Pedro Fiasco’s Legen…wait for it…dary Shaving Soap - Marzipan

Prep: Wash with Badger Shave Soap; Chiseled Face Natural Preshave Gel

Post-shave: T.N. Dickinson’s Witch Hazel; Chiseled Face Natural Aftershave Balm

Shave Pass Actions:

1. N-S
2. ATG
3. Clean up

Shave Summary: DFS

Comments:

The switch to an even smaller handle went even better than the Gillette common bar handle I was using. Somehow, the roughly 9.5 mm diameter handle made me feel like the razor is even more maneuverable. When I first held the razor paired with this handle, I thought it would be too small. But there is something about having the fingers close together that allowed better movement. While in action, I could seemingly feel everything with my hand and nothing with my face, except perhaps the vanishing of lather. This tiny razor gives me a level of precision I have never had while shaving before.

Continuing to get significantly better from to the irritation or allergic reaction I experienced earlier in the week. Decided to enjoy some Pedro, which I moved from a shave bowl to one of these puck-size containers I got from Stirling. I’m hoping that closing it up once it’s dry will help it retain more of its Marzipan smell.

I have really enjoyed this puck of Pedro so far. It has both good cushion and slickness and I also find it forgiving when I don’t get the water quite right. My face usually feels relatively hydrated after using it as well.

Later in the day, I put some Stirling Unscented with Beeswax on my left arm and left it there for awhile. No swelling or irritation whatsoever, great news! Going to try it tomorrow to continue to see if I can rule it out as the culprit of my reaction.

Thanks for reading!

 

[BrianWithAnI]

Shave 2023-08-24 - This Stirling is the Bees’(wax) Knees

Razor: Blackland Vector Ti head + Alpha Techtanium handle

Blade: Schick Proline P (4)

Brush: TRBH with Muhle STF at 55mm loft

Lather: Stirling Unscented with Beeswax

Prep: Wash with Badger Shave Soap; Chiseled Face Natural Preshave Gel

Post-shave: T.N. Dickinson’s Witch Hazel; Chiseled Face Natural Aftershave Balm

Shave Pass Actions:

1. N-S
2. ATG
3. Clean up

Shave Summary: DFS

Comments:

Excellent shave! The surgical precision and accuracy allowed by the “Vector Techtanium” is beyond my wildest dreams.

An interesting detail to explore further. The Techtanium handle does not have much in the way of knurling. However, due to the weight and the slight machine finish, I don’t feel like it will slip while I’m shaving (something I wasn’t sure about when it arrived). However, shaving without much knurling seems to allow me to feel what I’m doing even better. Something about deep, pointy knurling might be overloading and distracting the sense of touch. This will be interesting to think about and keep track of further.

Created my all-time best lather today! I made a conscious effort to create a dry version of Stirling Unscented with Beeswax. Got it whipped up and I was very skeptical as I scrubbed the first brushful of lather on the face. It just seemed too dry and airy. But I told myself this dry run would truly be a dry run, so I couldn’t add any more water. Once I was finished scrubbing, I started painting and the lather looked and felt better and better. The end result was that less water increased the cushion dramatically and once I was finished painting, the lather on my face was extremely slick as well. At the end of the shave, my face also felt very moisturized.

My face felt great for the rest of the day, so cross Stirling with Beeswax off the list of suspects for my reaction.

Now, here’s to waiting to see if Stirling releases any more scents in the Beeswax line.

Thanks for reading!

 

[BrianWithAnI]

Shave 2023-08-25 - My Face Didn’t Go Bananas

Razor: Blackland Vector Ti head + Alpha Techtanium handle

Blade: Schick Proline P (5 and banked)

Brush: AP Shave Co x Shavemac 24mm Synbad Fan

Lather: PAA Scentsless Shave Soap CK-6

Prep: PAA Banana Cube 2.0

Post-shave: T.N. Dickinson’s Witch Hazel; Chiseled Face Natural Aftershave Balm

Shave Pass Actions:

1. N-S
2. ATG
3. Clean up

Shave Summary: DFS

Comments:

One day after the Beeswax miracle, I must say that CK-6 is also really impressive stuff. I definitely over-watered it my first attempt and severely underestimated it. The last two shaves with it have been fantastic.

Best news of the shave: my face stayed unreacted to the banana cube, so cross that off the list of suspects for my recent reaction.

Another great shave overall, but the blade got dull at the end of the shave and was banked.

There is more than one way to skin a cat and the shave den is back open for business thanks to two 200 lumen LED light bars from GE, while I continue to procrastinate in putting in a work order for the lights. Honestly, the light bars on opposite sides of the mirror give the den this great ambiance, who knew?

Also, I got a Simpson Sovereign Fiber Berkeley 46, which arrived today. Looking forward to using it in the next shave.

Thank for reading!

 

[BrianWithAnI]

Hey Bryan and @huck1680 ,

That's a sweet looking handle on the Vector Ti head! The slimmer handle just seems to fit with the slim design of the head. I'm sure once you start using it and practice your different holds/grips that you will find it grippy enough!

I like the look as well. It's a bit shinier than the Vector head, but the shape aesthetics are really great.

You were absolutely correct in your prediction, it was plenty grippy enough!

That paragraph finished in a much different direction than I imagined it going. Sounds like your wife is at least paying some attention.

If I were to talk shaving to Madam Chairwoman, I imagine this is what it would look like and how I would sound to her.

With my Missus all she notices is if I'm bleeding or not. I've put her to sleep with some of my shaving reminisces before.

Yeah, I thought similar things, that is until she responded with the comment about Arko.

Best,
Brian

 

[thombrogan]

Thank you for sharing the great news of your recent shaves and the joy of a brush I covet!

 

[BrianWithAnI]

Thank you for sharing the great news of your recent shaves and the joy of a brush I covet!

I think this is in reference to the Simpson. If it is, it's awesome, I must say! (Need to get today's shave report typed up.) It's especially great for painting (so definitely up your alley) and it will come in handy as it's small enough to load from small soap sample jars. Its mixing ability is also fantastic, at least with Pedro Fiasco's soap, punching well above its weight class...or...knot diameter.

Since the loft is only around 46mm, keeping the knot diameter smallish at 19mm means it can still splay a little bit too (even though Simpson tells you not to).

 

[thombrogan]

Yes. Berkeley in Sovereign or best badger is a looker to me. So is the Harvard H1

 

[BrianWithAnI]

Berkeley in Sovereign or best badger is a looker to me. So is the Harvard H1

Both excellent! The Harvard H1 is even smaller (and even better yet for direct from sample loading), IIRC. I also like the Commodore X1 a lot, but the Berkeley has a more classic look you expect from a brand founded in 1919.

 

[thombrogan]

The H1 knot is 17mm wide by 40mm tall. Currently have a Wee Scot with a knot that’s 13mm wide by 40mm tall. Wish I had a synthetic in any fiber I’ve used with similar dimensions.

 

[BrianWithAnI]

Currently have a Wee Scot with a knot that’s 13mm wide by 40mm tall.

I've seen @Cal 's in his journal, didn't know you had one too.

Wish I had a synthetic in any fiber I’ve used with similar dimensions.

Definitely hard to find small brushes in a number of the desirable synthetic fibers right now. Muhle does have small STFs, but a lot of the other good synthetic knots AP Shave Co has don't have small options.

Hopefully I'll get to read about you acquiring a small Simpson synth before too long.

 

[thombrogan]

It took a bunch of shaves to break in, but it’s brilliant. I just kind indulged myself with all kinds of knots the size of Connecticut before discovering smol brushes.

 

[BrianWithAnI]

It took a bunch of shaves to break in, but it’s brilliant.

So are the dinos BTW! I would definitely try one if they ever put Sovereign "fibres" in it.

I just kind indulged myself with all kinds of knots the size of Connecticut before discovering smol brushes.

There's definitely too much "bigger is better" going on with brushes right now. I understand face latherers wanting to keep 5+ passes worth of lather in a brush, just in case, but our ancestors were definitely using small brushes from the local drug store.

Check out this 34mm RR Hulk I got for my wife. It's so big, it's actually difficult to load because it needs so much soap. Definitely a tactical error on my part and probably contributed to her not enjoying traditional shaving very much.

 

[Buttercup]

Hey there, Brian!

I'm sorry to hear that you've been so busy with work...and on a Saturday as well! I know you are a juggler of many balls, particularly with a young son! It's great to read your shave reports!!!

Shave 2023-08-23 - A Rather Punctilious Vector Techtanium

Anybody else? Raise your hand if you had to google Punctilious!

This tiny razor gives me a level of precision I have never had while shaving before.

Wow...strong statement. You've been having such great shaves with the Vector Ti. It's great to hear that even more is possible.

Shave 2023-08-24 - This Stirling is the Bees’(wax) Knees

Excellent shave! The surgical precision and accuracy allowed by the “Vector Techtanium” is beyond my wildest dreams.

I like the branding! And the Vector Ti gets even better. You know we've discussed at some point down the road I want to get a modern razor. Seeing all the love for Blackland on the forum, its hard to imagine my razor being either the Blackbird or the Vector.

The Techtanium handle does not have much in the way of knurling. However, due to the weight and the slight machine finish, I don’t feel like it will slip while I’m shaving (something I wasn’t sure about when it arrived).

As long as you can keep your hands relatively dry and free of lather. The old rub your fingers on the alum block is another way to prevent slippage.

The end result was that less water increased the cushion dramatically and once I was finished painting, the lather on my face was extremely slick as well.

Reading this makes me nervous, I like plenty of water (added slowly) in my lather. I think I lean more to slickness over cushion. But what do I know...I'm still wet behind the ears!

Shave 2023-08-25 - My Face Didn’t Go Bananas

I'm going bananas over your shave themes!

Brush: AP Shave Co x Shavemac 24mm Synbad Fan

I'm definitely bananas for the crushed mud AP Shave Co/Shavemac handle! Nope, not jealous...not jealous at all!

There is more than one way to skin a cat and the shave den is back open for business thanks to two 200 lumen LED light bars from GE, while I continue to procrastinate in putting in a work order for the lights.

Better light for the boogeyman to jump out of the dark and get you! Just kidding...or maybe for your son to jump in the bathroom and surprise you!

Also, I got a Simpson Sovereign Fiber Berkeley 46, which arrived today.

Simpson brushes just have that classic look! Nice choice! Compared to my T2 which has the same fibre, I'm guessing it will be a lot less springy due to the knot diameter vs. loft. If I ever did get a Simpson brush someday, I really like the look and dimensions of both the Duke 3 in Best and the 58 in Best.

I hope things slow down a bit for you, Brian!

 

[Buttercup]

All right, you two...you're really screwing with my head here!

Giant brush or tiny dinosaurs...I can't tell!

Tiny hands or giant brush...so confusing!

 

[thombrogan]

I have the RazoRock F400 XXL in 34mm Plissoft Noir. I think it’s like the Hulk with a less disturbing handle (can’t do your AP ShaveCo 22mm handle tricks with either, sadly).

 

[BrianWithAnI]

Hey Bryan!

Anybody else? Raise your hand if you had to google Punctilious!

I have to admit that I was not happy with the original adjective I chose, it just didn't flow well. So I did a thesaurus search and that was the best one. Figured we could all learn a new word together.

Wow...strong statement. You've been having such great shaves with the Vector Ti. It's great to hear that even more is possible.

Everything with the shave has focused in really well the more weight and size from the razor I have been able to strip away through (first) starting with the Vector and (second) these handle changes. I love how 'minimalist' it feels as well now.

I like the branding! And the Vector Ti gets even better. You know we've discussed at some point down the road I want to get a modern razor. Seeing all the love for Blackland on the forum, its hard to imagine my razor being either the Blackbird or the Vector.

I'm experimenting with a few branding ideas at this point. Is Vector Tech-Ti-tanium better? I don't know.

The Vector head is much better with this handle than with the stock for me (sorry Shane). The 92mm handle should be one of several options one can choose when purchasing one of the most maneuverable razor heads on the market.

I know I've said this before, but the 92mm stock handle would be relatively fine for controlling steep angle. But on the shallow angle, one spends too much time with the handle closer to parallel with the floor. The stock handle weighs the thing down and I end up fighting a bad balance set up. If there was a shorter, hollow handle option for stock, that would be ideal.

With regards to Blackland stuff specifically, the Blackbird (original, non-Lite base plates) and the Vector both have a reputation for having a lot of blade feel. For me, much of this journal has been devoted to finding a way around all this blade feel and to tame the Vector, if you will. (Also, my facial hair likes to mostly stand straight up, so while the steep angle on the Vector is great for some, it is not very smooth ride for me, except with the Softguard blades.)

All this being said, there are so many great modern razors out there now, it's frankly overwhelming. (There really were not as many good ones 10 years ago.)

As long as you can keep your hands relatively dry and free of lather. The old rub your fingers on the alum block is another way to prevent slippage.

My hands are usually full of lather (due to my brush grips) and it's still been just fine, grip wise. It has a very slight machine finish, which I think actually helps it here.

I'm actually one of those few people that gets irritation from alum on my face, even in absence of a shave. As a result, I no longer own a block of it.

I'm going bananas over your shave themes!

I have had more time to think about it, since my shave notes are just kind of sitting around marinating. Definitely painting myself into a corner going forward though. I'll have to try to continue with these titles going forward.

I'm definitely bananas for the crushed mud AP Shave Co/Shavemac handle! Nope, not jealous...not jealous at all!

You may have a tough choice in October, my friend. Or perhaps the Finance Committee will be unexpectedly generous this year.

Compared to my T2 which has the same fibre, I'm guessing it will be a lot less springy due to the knot diameter vs. loft. If I ever did get a Simpson brush someday, I really like the look and dimensions of both the Duke 3 in Best and the 58 in Best.

It's not very springy at all. I find the RR Plissoft fibers (like in the Big Bruce) to be annoyingly springy. These are not in either the 46 or the Independent knot from AP Shave Co. I would assume it's the diameter to loft ratio you mention giving it that feel.

Thanks as always for all of the comments and discussion.

Sincerely,
Brian