Between mild and aggressive - which way?

[catchacoolbreeze]

curious if you tried 2 WTG passes? I've had razors that sucked XTG or at least didn't give any noticeable benefit that I eventually did a 2 pass WTG and it was actually better.

If that doesn't work, I would look for a more efficient razor than your more mild one. Unfortunately, I've never heard of it so I can't be much help to compare.

 

[John Malkovich]

Many thanks for all your replies, lots of interesting things to read and learn here.

I have an interesting finding to share. While I was trying to solve the mystery of inconsistent shaving results under same conditions, it has come to my attention that the blade position in the razor may vary. In KGC razor, when putting the blade onto top cap which is upside down, the blade has some play from one edge to another, probably a millimeter or even less. Pushing it tightly to one side will expose the blade a tad more and make it shave more efficiently. Now I am able to get SAS from a single WTG pass, while not getting weepers from XTG as second pass.

Does EJ DE89 exhibit the same play tolerance with blades? If so, I could get me a more stylish razor than this KCG while being able to do the same blade trick.

This discovery has greatly restored my belief in DE shaving and I intend to continue. I do hope, however, that tingle and burn (very slight but still a reminder that I didn't use cartridges that morning) that will extend half a day after DE shaving, will eventually go away.

I might also try two WTG passes.

 

[catchacoolbreeze]

Many thanks for all your replies, lots of interesting things to read and learn here.

I have an interesting finding to share. While I was trying to solve the mystery of inconsistent shaving results under same conditions, it has come to my attention that the blade position in the razor may vary. In KGC razor, when putting the blade onto top cap which is upside down, the blade has some play from one edge to another, probably a millimeter or even less. Pushing it tightly to one side will expose the blade a tad more and make it shave more efficiently. Now I am able to get SAS from a single WTG pass, while not getting weepers from XTG as second pass.

Does EJ DE89 exhibit the same play tolerance with blades? If so, I could get me a more stylish razor than this KCG while being able to do the same blade trick.

This discovery has greatly restored my belief in DE shaving and I intend to continue. I do hope, however, that tingle and burn (very slight but still a reminder that I didn't use cartridges that morning) that will extend half a day after DE shaving, will eventually go away.

I might also try two WTG passes.

If a razor is made out of a mold (and not machined by CNC) like every Merkur, DE89 varients, Fatip, chinese zamak knockoffs, etc. it will have blade play. Of course I haven't tried all of them but I've tried enough to say I am 99.9% sure in that assertion. It is my primary reason, that I much prefer machined razors.

 

[AshleyC]

Doesn't seem to be many recommendations for adjustables so far. I have more adjustables than anything else.

Of recent discovery, I'd recommend Yaqi's "The Final Cut". On sale, they can be had for less than $23. And mine is what I consider "Fast Aggressive", meaning I can shave with it set on "4" and can cruise all over without worrying about cuts and nicks. And the natural lubricity of chrome finish is slick on soaps and creams.

Then there's the Merkur Progress. There's a reason these are still in production after being unveiled in the 1950s.

Of course there's always the Gillette Fatboy/Slim/Super Adjustable route. And many other adjustables besides. The point being that with an adjustable you have 9 or 6 chances (and all points in between) to find the sweet spot.

 

[zifnab]

I've learned I can get a close shave with any DE, doesn't matter if it's a mild Henson, or more efficient Apex. I've learned I can shave well with razor with fixed angle type like Overlander or more traditional round dome like Alpha Outlaw Evo.

My goal after each shave it to have a comfortable no irritation shave. Whatever that leaves my skin feeling healthy.

So I just use razors I know that gives me that comfortable shave. Can always improve on the close shave, but priority is always comfort.

I've had adjustables and found them pointless. I just used Rockwell 6C on 3 plate. And I got a Slim and Fatboy and feel it's the same way. I don't need the additional adjustments, pointless to me. Especially when I get an amazing shave with the Overlander. Far as I'm concerned, Super Speed is the better razor over the Slim/Fatboy.

 

[John Malkovich]

Good evening gentlemen,

Just wanted to share with you that a beautiful Edwin Jagger DE89 with knurled (not barley) handle landed in my post box today. Honestly, I wanted something more stylish than an unexciting KCG which looks a bit like a surgical instrument and certainly unusual with the long handle. Before I do my first test in the morning, here are my first impressions.
The DE89 looks just great - rich and classic. On closer inspection, curved shapes and surfaces are less than perfect, showing barely noticeable valleys when looking at reflections. Comparing it to KCG, it is considerably lighter. The KCG handle, although longer, is much heavier. The DE89 has a bit of a "hollow" feeling to it. In addition, DE89 has no side orientation marks (KCG has a logo on top), but the letters around the upper rim on handle can serve that purpose. Overall, I am not very much impressed and must admit that the manufacturing quality of KCG is better. On a brighter side, if I am not satisfied with how it shaves, the DE89 handle fits KCG head, so it can be switched.

 

[Raven Koenes]

If a razor is made out of a mold (and not machined by CNC) like every Merkur, DE89 varients, Fatip, chinese zamak knockoffs, etc. it will have blade play. Of course I haven't tried all of them but I've tried enough to say I am 99.9% sure in that assertion. It is my primary reason, that I much prefer machined razors.

Fatips are machined brass.

 

[catchacoolbreeze]

Fatips are machined brass.

I apologize if I was in error. It was not intentional. I based it on how rough the cap and baseplate look which is similar to Merkurs to my eye. That being said, machined or not, my Fatip has blade play.

 

[Raven Koenes]

I apologize if I was in error. It was not intentional. I based it on how rough the cap and baseplate look which is similar to Merkurs to my eye. That being said, machined or not, my Fatip has blade play.

They are masters of varying tolerances.

 

[Iridian]

They are masters of varying tolerances.

Nicely said! Though I would like to add that Zamac heads and their gaps can vary quite a bit, for every manufacturer. Fatips are cheap and usually very good, their quality issues are usually related to issues with the finish.

 

[cpcohen1945]

I second (third?) the recommendation for CNC-machined razor heads. My Merkur Progress has _lots_ of play, in blade positioning on the cap, and on the position of the cap relative to the baseplate.

With machined razors (Razorock Lupo AL and new Pearl Flexi), once the blade is caught by the pins and slots, it's where it's supposed to be, and doesn't move.

With a sharp blade, a fraction of a millimeter means a lot.

 

[ivan_101]

If a razor is made out of a mold (and not machined by CNC) like every Merkur, DE89 varients, Fatip, chinese zamak knockoffs, etc. it will have blade play. Of course I haven't tried all of them but I've tried enough to say I am 99.9% sure in that assertion. It is my primary reason, that I much prefer machined razors.

The caps on the Techs since 1961 are moulds. Also the Super-Speeds (and the later Gillette TTOs) are not CNC. I wonder, how come they don't have blade play.

Regarding Merkur. I have 33C, 41C and 42C. All 3 bought in the recent 4 years. The blade always aligns perfectly in those (unlike in my Progress razors).

 

[John Malkovich]

I really have to do justice to Edwin Jagger DE89. Despite the shortcomings I mentioned in my previous post, it turned out to be a damn fine shaver for me. Reusing a Gillette Platinum blade for the 5th consecutive day, DE89 can give DSF with WTG and XTG pass, smooth, easy and hassle-free. It also shaves closer than KCG (but not more aggressive for that). Very, very satisfied, to the point of not wanting to ask more from shaving than this.

 

[Guido75]

All I can add after your last post is hold on to that Swing. They are harder to come by and are fantastic shavers.

There is definitely a step up from the KCG or DE89 for sure! There Swing has a blade gap close to .95-1.00 with positive blade exposure as well. My experience is that with certain blades (I cannot really recall the Gillette Platinum feel in this razor) the shave is more ‘present’ than with other blades which can lead to a sometimes harsher shave.

Once you get your muscle memory back in order with the DE89 you may find that the Swing is better to handle.

Somewhere between the DE89 and the Swing I would place the Mühle Rocca or EJ 3one6 in terms of effectiveness. Smoothness I find to be equal on average.

And there’s always something vintage that can rival with anything modern!

Enjoy!

Guido

 

[profusion]

I've been DE shaving for about 11 years now, and one thing I've found is that every day's shave is different, even when your technique has evolved--and also that your technique can deteriorate if you don't occasionally pay it some attention!

After a while, I recommend trying to work in an ATG pass at the end of your shave. It requires a very light touch and might not be for everyone, but for me a consistent BBS shave requires it. Personally, I've largely replaced the XTG pass in my 2-pass shave with ATG, while leaving a few sensitive spots as XTG.

 

[Attog]

I'm still relatively new to TWS but I went aggressive after about a year into this hobby and I would never go back. The results of DFS+ or BBS are very addictive tbh.

Would EJ DE89 make a difference over KCG?

In my opinion not by much. These are about the same. But these are both drama free shavers I use DE89 head brother R89 as my body shaver because it's so safe, but regarding face it is so difficult for me to achieve DFS+ not even talking about BBS with it.

 

[John Malkovich]

One thing my face could never stand is ATG. However, this morning I tried a green Astra from blades sampler that arrived with the razor and I was impressed how well the combo works. Shaves better than with blue Gillette Platinum. There’s also a Feather in the pack. Go or no go?

 

[profusion]

It's worth a try, if you're willing to be careful and deliberate in your shave. It'll cut you. I don't care that much for the Feather, but everyone's different.

 

[cpcohen1945]

It's worth a try, if you're willing to be careful and deliberate in your shave. It'll cut you. . . .

+1. With a Feather, remember that "no pressure" really means "no pressure!".

 

[John Malkovich]

Note to self: never jump to conclusions too soon (or after first shave). After I had praised the first shave with Astra SP, the following morning was really bad, with lots of burn and some weepers. I think I belong to no-Astra camp, so I returned to blue Gillette Platinum. I will also put off the Feather test further.
P.S. It turns out my new EJ is Kelvin model.