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Bad Wet Shaving Advice: Part 2

Jay21

Collecting wife bonus parts
Thanks for this. I’ve come to some of these conclusions during my own journey, but it’s nice to hear confirmation.
 
Agree with all those points, I always chuckle when you get the know it alls preaching “don’t use any pressure”.

Thanks for posting these here!
 
Fun to watch.

Three things:

1. I don't think there's a magic blade for each razor, but I do think a blade that works well in one razor for a given person can work poorly in another razor. I think it's mostly due to blade and head width relative to one another but I'm not sure. I've also seen people new to DE shaving who are not quite satisfied, and switch blades and have this aha moment when something else wasn't working for them. I'm not sure I'd necessarily recommend everyone start out with a bunch of blades, but if you're going to order blades, and are new to things, there's a bit of an insurance in getting multiple types at the same time given shipping costs.

2. I think the "no pressure" thing comes from some people pressing the razor into their skin and having trouble. It doesn't come up often but does sometimes. Is "no pressure" bad advice? Probably most of the time but sometimes I think it's appropriate.

3. I think water temperature is kind of a personal preference, but I do think there's things about it that can have an effect. I can use really cold water on my face kind of as an astringent aftershave, for example, and it cuts down on minor bleeding. But I also like warm water to wet my face, so there's that. I've seen really cold water solidify lanolin... etc etc.
 
Lotta good advice there!

Everyone's face is different, you have to figure out what works for you. I shave strictly ATG, my beard grows out almost parallel to my skin except on my chin, anything else leaves a lot of stubble. Hardly universal. I recommend the direction and number of passes that gives the shaver the desired shave.

Pressure always gives me a laugh -- you HAVE to apply some pressure to keep the edge sliding on your skin to cut the hair a skin level. How much is determined by user's beard, razor, blade, and desired result, but it's never zero. Light, yes, zero, hardly.

This ties into "hydration" which is really lather -- Shane doesn't mention it, but another bad piece of shaving advice is that you need a thick layer of stff lather in order to get a good shave. Quite the opposite is true -- you need SLICK lather since the soap is only there to let the edge slip over your skin without abrading it while cutting beard hair. As far as I can tell slickness is the only thing that matters in lather other than it not drying out during a pass. Bath soap (sodium base, not potassium) works great if it doesn't dry out before you finish the pass, it's slicker in many cases that shaving soaps. Lather so thin it drips off the razor works great,

I agree that there is no "magic" combination of razor and blade, but I found that a Nacet in a Tech was miserable for me. Haven't tried on in an adjustable yet, but if my experience with a Lord Rainbow in a Tech vs a Slim is anything at all similar, I expect to find a Nacet to be a great blade instead of a worthless one. Pulled as bad as a Derby for me, but I'd not been shaving long with a DE then. Fixed razors will require the user to find a blade that works well for them, both actual edge to edge width and grind angles make a difference. Add in user's face and beard, and not all razor blades will work well in any given fixed razor. This is why I like adjustables, usually some setting on the razor will "match" the blade to my face pretty well. Also nice to up the aggressiveness as the blade wears too since I actually wear them out (average number of shaves per blade is currently 68.5)

Blade feel is a good thing once you get used to it.

A very nice video. Probably won't buy a new razor (I have dozens of vintage ones that work just fine), but I enjoyed the videos.
 
As is with almost everything, you can say the same thing in a variety of ways.
Who knows why something finally clicks with someone? Most likely experience over time.
Shaving is using tools, a razor and a blade, and your "feel" for those tools. Just like any other tools that you use.
Some people are handy with tools, some not so much.
 
@Blackland Razors , Good advice on tailoring the number of shaving passes to what works best for your needs and preferences. I researched the mantra of a 3-pass shave and found that it is a relatively recent construct and that historically a one or two pass shave was the norm (see thread via link below). I do a 2+ pass shave with two full passes WTG then ATG followed by some touch-up where needed.

Have a look at the almost 200 posts in this thread as they further confirm your recommendation on this.

Link to History and Analysis of the Three-Pass Shave:
How Did the Three Pass Shave Originate? One or Two Passes Were Standard Historically. - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/how-did-the-three-pass-shave-originate-one-or-two-passes-were-standard-historically.630894/

P.S. Your recommendation on pressure is similar to my experience. I don't even give blades the 1% credit you do as for me they all work the same with the exception of longevity (# of shaves). It's all about matching technique to razor aggressiveness and lather quality with a focus on slickness.

P.S.S. Edit: Saw your second video, yes water temps is a preference thing. I prefer hot water, my dense 26mm synthetic brushes are able to retain enough heat from really hot water to deliver really pleasant warm lather. Guess it is YMMV here.
 
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Pretty much agree on all points...but those that I feel strongly about:

No pressure. I usually tell a new DE shaver to use the lightest touch that allows the razor to remove whiskers. The idea is (as stated by Shane) to not mash the razor into your face as you would with a cart.

Blade time. I often suggest to a new user that the longer time the blade is in contact with your face, the greater the chance of something bad happening (razor burn, nicks/cuts)...knowing when to call it off is critical to a happy face, and will likely vary by person and experience.

Blade selection. My opinion is not popular but I tell new users that most well-known, name-brand blades shave the same, at least for me. Are there some outliers? Sure, but most fall in the center of the bell curve. Pick one.
 
I have to say I still think advising a newbie of no pressure is good advise and it’s what works for me. I know the razors weight is applying pressure but whenever I add any extra pressure of my own it always gives a little more irritation of some sort. Perhaps other people are different but for me any extra added pressure isn’t worth it.

I know with light razors you have to apply pressure so the no pressure advise doesn’t work but that’s also why I recommend heavy razors and can’t stand light razors. I really don’t understand why people like them. If I take the same razor design one is lightweight aluminum and I add my own pressure, the other SS and I don’t apply extra pressure - the results for me is a smoother shave on the heavier design that doesn’t cause irritation. Maybe others are better at applying even amounts of pressure than I am.

The only other disagreement I have is the water temp. I agree it doesn’t make a difference for shaving performance as far as the lather or shaving goes but where it does seem to make a difference is opening or closing your pores? That’s why a shave after a hot shower works so well for me. I also turn on the hot water and rub hot water into my face for 30 seconds with hair conditioner to keep my face warm and as soon as I’m done washing the conditioner off my face with the hot water I apply my cream/soap.

Before I start shaving I leave the razor head under the running hot water for a few seconds to warm the razor and blade up although I can’t say if that helps but it’s a habit I started. I also let the water run as I shave and after every stroke or two I run the razors head under the water so more water gets on my face for lubrication. I doubt it would matter too much if it was hot or cold at this point but I leave it on hot.

And lastly after the shave is complete I turn the cold water on and pat the cold water into my face for 20-30 seconds to cool it down. I find this helps a little with irritation and produces far less sting if you didn’t get a good shave when applying alum or alcohol/witch hazel. I usually use witch hazel in a squirt bottle and spray it on my hand and rub it into my face.

For blades I’d definitely have to agree that a blade that works well in one razor almost always works well in another and that most blades are very similar. I’ve had a couple occasions where a certain razor didn’t like a certain blade but that is very rare for me and may be due to other variables. All of that said, I do love testing out new blades. Certain ones really stand out to me but for the most part 95% of the ones I’ve shaved with I could use everyday and be happy with.
 
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