Stainless razor buying advice

[acenes]

Hello all. I'd like to ask for your advice in regards to choosing a razor. Being relatively new to wet shaving (very glad to have converted btw), I have only tried the following (subjectively rated on their efficiency):

- Feather popular - 2 / 10
- Yaqi Tile - 3 / 10 (makes me insist and get burns)
- Gillette super blue from Aliexpress - 5 / 10 (smooth, works well with NACET)
- Wilkinson Sword Classic - 5.5 / 10
- Saiver with 1 blade - 7 / 10
- DSCosmetic Z0 - 10 / 10 (incredibly close shaving, but feels like scraping and always needs a new blade or it pulls)

I am looking to get a stainless steel razor from either Yaqi or DSCosmetic (easier to get for me) that is around that 5-7 efficiency level. Is there something like that? I don't mind a little blade feel, but not like with a Z0.

Thanks!

 

[faroll2]

You should look into the Yaqi Adjustable The Final Cut, they have them available in chrome plated zamak (more affordable), they also have the brass and stainless steel variants (more costly).

 

[buyandhold2018]

The problem with the yaqi and dsc stainless razors is the tolerances. I've measured some that are off by 10-15 thou due to loose machining and over polishing. Getting a consistent shave is a crap shoot. You are way better off buying a razorock, timeless, blackland, etc and having it for life.

 

[acenes]

Thanks for the suggestions.

The Final Cut is interesting but indeed, a bit costly in SS.

Regarding DSC and Yaqi tolerances, that might be the reason why some swear by them and others don't like 'em at all. I'll have a look at the ones you mentioned.

 

[flash75]

Usually I recommend a Rockwell 6s to beginners as I, more or less, worked down from R6 to R2 that now gives me a very close and mild shave. In my early days I only managed with R6.
But maybe a Razorock Game Changer. 84 would be good, as you can buy the 84 OC or 84 Jaws plate separately.
If you like the ZO the Mühle R41 GS might be worth a look.

 

[Slapo]

The problem with the yaqi and dsc stainless razors is the tolerances. I've measured some that are off by 10-15 thou due to loose machining and over polishing. Getting a consistent shave is a crap shoot. You are way better off buying a razorock, timeless, blackland, etc and having it for life.

What do you mean when you say "off by 10-15?" Micrometres?

I've bought several Yaqi and dscosmetic steel razors, and other than the first generation of the dscosmetic Z0 and the SS Mellon, they have been quite consistent and pretty tight.
Steel Yaqi razor heads I have:
- Harlequin
- Tile
- Vostok 70OC
- Telstar
- Slope
- Mellon

Steel dscosmetic razor heads I have:
- T7
- T7G
- Z0 (first generation)

Considering the CNC programs are going to be different for different models, perhaps it's worth listing the models where you've found the tolerances to be off or linking to a post where you've done so, because I think you're painting a picture with strokes too broad here.

 

[Halfbeard]

Yaqi and DSC SS razors tolerances are top notch ! Alla my SS razors are very good !
Bohemia
SLOPE
Mellon
S9
Duomo

 

[Slapo]

@acenes: What do you mean when you say the Yaqi Tile "makes me insist and get burns?"

If you're still relatively new to wet shaving, rather than chasing razors, I'd suggest exploring things like how to maximise hair hydration before you shave, exploring razor and lather consistency combinations and, last but not least, your actual shaving technique.

With mild razors, you have to be quite attentive so they'd actually work, because they generally have a pretty narrow range of angles where they work. Unless a razor has negative blade exposure, you don't need to use pressure in excess of what's required to keep it on the skin.
If you're getting razor burn, then it very likely means that you're not doing particularly well when it comes to keeping the angle in the sweet spot and end up compensating with extra pressure against the skin (in excess of what's required to keep the razor on the skin).
With the Tile, it does half the job for you there - it's facets around the cutting edge of the blade are the angle you need to keep.
If you're having some difficulty keeping the angle because you don't quite have the feel for it, and would like to see what you're doing better, you can just use an oil after having hydrated your hair well. Sunflower oil or olive oil should work fine, but you can buy the likes of Somersets shaving oil if you'd want. You'll want to clean the razor afterwards, though.

With just about any razor, it's much easier to keep the angle when you flatten the skin as much you can and keep it tight(ish) - you can use skin stretching using your fingers (just to flatten the skin, not to stretch the heck out of it), bullfrogging, facial expressions, turning your head to one side (helps flatten the neck, too) and perhaps other things that don't currently come to mind.

Technique-wise, you could also explore Gillette slide variants and j-hooking, and while making sure that you have your hair growth mapped out well.

I'd also say that you want to avoid gripping the razor like you're trying to kill it, but that's something dependent on individual level of fine motor skill and strength.

But if you don't care about any of the above and really just want something new to shave with, and would still like to go for Yaqi or dscosmetic, I'd recommend the Yaqi Harlequin and Yaqi Telstar.
They are on the medium to a little aggressive side, but clamp the blade close to the cutting edge, keeping blade flex to a minimum and are very smooth shavers.

 

[acenes]

Thanks for the advice. I have about 2 years of wet shaving as of now. In the beginning I tried the cheapo / plastic stuff mentioned above in order to develop a suitable technique. Of all the cheap ones, I liked the Saiver the most because it's very efficient yet smooth enough to not feel the blade.

After a while I wanted to get something more durable. First ones to try were the Tile and the Z0. Both were well made, no alignment or tolerance problems. The Tile was too mild for me and many times after shaving a spot, there was hair left behind it. Maybe my angle was off. I admit to not having too much patience with it and gave it away. The Z0 on the other hand is plenty efficient, and gives an incredibly close shave (like a shavette), but on the other hand it feels uncomfortable, can't relax around it.

In the end, that's what I am after, something "medium to a little aggressive". Initially I wanted to get the Telstar or the S9, but after reading mixed reviews, went for the Tile and Z0, as both were highly praised. Should have went with the gut feeling.

 

[Slapo]

Thanks for the advice. I have about 2 years of wet shaving as of now. In the beginning I tried the cheapo / plastic stuff mentioned above in order to develop a suitable technique. Of all the cheap ones, I liked the Saiver the most because it's very efficient yet smooth enough to not feel the blade.

After a while I wanted to get something more durable. First ones to try were the Tile and the Z0. Both were well made, no alignment or tolerance problems. The Tile was too mild for me and many times after shaving a spot, there was hair left behind it. Maybe my angle was off. I admit to not having too much patience with it and gave it away. The Z0 on the other hand is plenty efficient, and gives an incredibly close shave (like a shavette), but on the other hand it feels uncomfortable, can't relax around it.

In the end, that's what I am after, something "medium to a little aggressive". Initially I wanted to get the Telstar or the S9, but after reading mixed reviews, went for the Tile and Z0, as both were highly praised. Should have went with the gut feeling.

Fair enough.
Although I still think what I posted above is still worth a try.

I think you might also want to consider using shims. A shim or two between the blade and the base plate should make the Tile more aggressive.
A blade between two shims (so there's one shim between the blade and the top cap and another one between the blade and the base plate) should help smooth out the Z0.

Cheap to try, if nothing else, and you'll see if that's what you're after.
Other than that, the Harlequin and Telstar are likely to be in the sweet spot of what you're looking for, IMO.

 

[acenes]

I'll give the shims a try. Cheers!

 

[Salty_Shaver]

Rockwell 6s is a great stainless steel razor.

 

[acenes]

It looks good, but unfortunately it's a bit expensive for me.

 

[StewB]

I would consider a Yates.

 

[Tathlum]

I am looking to get a stainless steel razor from either Yaqi or DSCosmetic (easier to get for me) that is around that 5-7 efficiency level. Is there something like that? I don't mind a little blade feel, but not like with a Z0.

Might try the Yaqi Sentinel 1.35

 

[buyandhold2018]

What do you mean when you say "off by 10-15?" Micrometres?

I've bought several Yaqi and dscosmetic steel razors, and other than the first generation of the dscosmetic Z0 and the SS Mellon, they have been quite consistent and pretty tight.
Steel Yaqi razor heads I have:
- Harlequin
- Tile
- Vostok 70OC
- Telstar
- Slope
- Mellon

Steel dscosmetic razor heads I have:
- T7
- T7G
- Z0 (first generation)

Considering the CNC programs are going to be different for different models, perhaps it's worth listing the models where you've found the tolerances to be off or linking to a post where you've done so, because I think you're painting a picture with strokes too broad here.

I recently got a Yaqi Telstar and the blade exposure was over 10 thousandths of an inch more on one side than the other (roughly a quarter mm), measured with calipers. Acceptable generally in the 1-3 range. This makes aggression way inconsistent from one side to the other. It's still shaveable but definitely not desirable for a cnc razor.