Hey guys! Recently my technique has improved a lot with a straight razor. I’m especially decent with the grain pass and sideways pass but I’ve noticed when I go against the grain in the cheeks I feel discomfort after the shave, yes I get a really nice close shave, I don’t get any cuts but I do notice the blade is a lot smoother with the grain than against it. Do you guys have any tips? Is my skin too sensitive and maybe I should skip the third pass? Thank you guys in advance.
Against the grain discomfort
- Thread starter Stapelfeld
- Start date
Use a shallow/flat angle.
You can also increase the efficiency of your across the grain pass by using a slightly higher angle, and a subtle sliding stroke
I you look at some of the straight razor shaves performed by barbers they usually don't do allot of against the grain strokes.
Skin stretching will also help to lift the hair, which if done right makes the concept of grain direction relative to the cutting action less important.
Grain direction mapping can also be used to dictate the direction you stretch.
If you raise the angle you need to be more careful, especially with highly refined synthetic edges.
You can also increase the efficiency of your across the grain pass by using a slightly higher angle, and a subtle sliding stroke
I you look at some of the straight razor shaves performed by barbers they usually don't do allot of against the grain strokes.
Skin stretching will also help to lift the hair, which if done right makes the concept of grain direction relative to the cutting action less important.
Grain direction mapping can also be used to dictate the direction you stretch.
If you raise the angle you need to be more careful, especially with highly refined synthetic edges.
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It comes down to a matter of preferences, comfort and what feels right. I’m often very satisfied with a single WTG pass, close and comfortable. When the mood strikes I might add a second pass that goes XTG on some parts of my face. The results are noticeable, but still pleasant. I imagine a third pass ATG would provide further closeness but that’s just not the way I like to shave. If ATG is what you are seeking, fine tuning technique and an edge that is on point would be my guess. If you are satisfied with the results after a second pass, problem solved.
- Thread starter
- #4
Yes I have a 12k synthetic edge
Very light touch , let it glide. As your technique it will come. But my big question is what razor are you using. Best to learn going across with a mild razor and working your way up. My guess is the razor is bit aggressive for you and or your are adding a bit to much pressure. Sure the angle is important to get right also..good point guys. A great razor to start with is the Karve CB plate B, it has neutral blade exposure. The CB's you will have to ride the cap, but has you great better you can move up a plate. That tool will most likely keep you irritation free, it will be a 3 pass shave, it will not be super close...you should get to a good DFS...
Man: "Doctor, Doctor, it always hurt when I do this."
Doctor: "I suggest you stop doing that."
Doctor: "I suggest you stop doing that."
- Thread starter
- #8
I'm using a gold dollar p80 model.
You can strop again some quick laps before your ATG pass, may help.
Also getting a razor that's not a gold dollar will be worth it now that you know you're going to use straight razors, guiding new shavers to them to begin with is very controversial - get a decent one honed by a master. Learning on a gold dollar is like learning to ride a bike with one handle bar, sure it's a cheap bike to begin with, but it's also going to make the whole experience harder than it has to be.
There's plenty of quality shave ready straights for cheap if you know where to look, poke around this forum if you're not sure or just check Griffith Shaving Goods, Matt is well lauded for his honing.
Also getting a razor that's not a gold dollar will be worth it now that you know you're going to use straight razors, guiding new shavers to them to begin with is very controversial - get a decent one honed by a master. Learning on a gold dollar is like learning to ride a bike with one handle bar, sure it's a cheap bike to begin with, but it's also going to make the whole experience harder than it has to be.
There's plenty of quality shave ready straights for cheap if you know where to look, poke around this forum if you're not sure or just check Griffith Shaving Goods, Matt is well lauded for his honing.
I have been shaving with a SR for about five years now, and I still don't like shaving ATG for most of my face. The only part I routinely shave ATG is under my jaw, upward strokes, with the blade almost flat on my skin.
I can do it occasionally, but very soon I develop ingrown hairs if I do it too often. I would not even attempt it with a 12k edge. In my view it's just not sharp enough.
I understand that once you get an excellent shave, there is an ambition to do better and develop your skills. Many of us chase the BBS, but to be honest, nobody but you is going to notice a difference between a two pass WTG and XTG and a three pass with an added ATG.
For me the comfort is more important, and my skin is very happy with a daily two-pass shave.
I can do it occasionally, but very soon I develop ingrown hairs if I do it too often. I would not even attempt it with a 12k edge. In my view it's just not sharp enough.
I understand that once you get an excellent shave, there is an ambition to do better and develop your skills. Many of us chase the BBS, but to be honest, nobody but you is going to notice a difference between a two pass WTG and XTG and a three pass with an added ATG.
For me the comfort is more important, and my skin is very happy with a daily two-pass shave.
I'm also the only one who's going to notice if I have a headache, but it still matters to me. ツ
I know a lot of it is technique, but for me the honing job, more specifically my finishing stone, made the biggest difference.
Certain stones allow me to shave daily without a problem, others were a bit hard on my skin.
That's a different can of worms, but i'm just mentioning it.
Any well honed blade should shave ATG without a problem. But it's of course the most difficult thing to shave.
Some stones also gave me ingrown hairs, while some naturals do not.
I hone my razors and have no issue going ATG on my first and only pass.
I also never use 3-pass shaves and shave daily.
Certain stones allow me to shave daily without a problem, others were a bit hard on my skin.
That's a different can of worms, but i'm just mentioning it.
Any well honed blade should shave ATG without a problem. But it's of course the most difficult thing to shave.
Some stones also gave me ingrown hairs, while some naturals do not.
I hone my razors and have no issue going ATG on my first and only pass.
I also never use 3-pass shaves and shave daily.
That's some technique! That brings the Gillette slide to another level. Pretty cool to watch.
Assuming technique is good, lather is good, and edge is good, sometimes you skin can only take so many passes before it gives up and succumbs to razor burn. Everytime you take a pass a layer of skin is removed. Of course blade angle and pressure plays a part, but try counting the number of passes your cheeks take during a shave. A synthetic edge is also sharper than, say, a coticule edge sometimes. I sent some CBN balsa strops out to a coti user, and on his first shave off it he had a bunch of weepers. So technique sometimes follows the edge you have.
You can try skipping shaving over the weekend so your Sunday night or Monday morning shave is on less exfoliated skin, and see if you get less burn with your normal progression.
You can try skipping shaving over the weekend so your Sunday night or Monday morning shave is on less exfoliated skin, and see if you get less burn with your normal progression.
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
My guess is that the edge isn’t sharp enough. It takes a keen edge to go ATG, especially the upper lip and around the lips.
I can go XTG on cheeks (Coticule or Black Ark Edge) pretty comfortably, at the sink.
I shave in the tub a lot, I have razor in one hand and mirror in the other, just like the old westerns
.
When I shave in the tub I don't mess with XTG. I usually go 3 passes, WTG, XTGR, XTGL. That gets me closer than any DE shave that is not XTG. Almost BBS.
I cant go XTG on my neck, my whiskers grow east to west on my neck and I am not going to attempt that. I can get close as hell with my current routine.
I shave in the tub a lot, I have razor in one hand and mirror in the other, just like the old westerns
.When I shave in the tub I don't mess with XTG. I usually go 3 passes, WTG, XTGR, XTGL. That gets me closer than any DE shave that is not XTG. Almost BBS.
I cant go XTG on my neck, my whiskers grow east to west on my neck and I am not going to attempt that. I can get close as hell with my current routine.
Having wire like, unruly beard hairs I really had to figure out which way to shave. Some areas are across the grain simply because of how the beard grain goes. Other patches are actually only able to be shaved against the grain. Of course there are patches that immediately catch a weeper if I do anything but with the grain. I've been shaving with a straight for the last 7 years but I still have to force myself to slow down and lighten my stroke and really focus on my technique.
