I have a Yaqi 26mm rainbow handle that I would like to re-use with a Muhle STF 25mm knot. I have removed the old knot and as best I can measure the opening at the top is at least 26mm. It might be a bit less at the base of the opening, but it's very hard for me to measure that accurately. Assuming it's larger than the diameter of the Muhle knot's base, how do I best install it? Is there something I can wrap around the plastic base of the knot, or do I just center the knot and fill around it with epoxy? Or is there something I can apply around the circumference of the hole to make it a bit smaller? For example I have some JB Weld Water Weld that starts out putty-like but hardens to a waterproof solid. Any ideas that have worked for you?
25mm Knot in 26mm Handle?
- Thread starter Steve_in_CT
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26 mm holes are typically sized for 24 mm knots because you have to consider the glue bump on the knots. For 25mm knots you would need the opening to be around 27 mm in size...Unless you can find a knot with almost No glue bump..
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- #3
The brush is listed as a 26mm brush, and the opening is at least that large. I have no concerns with the hole being too small as I can enlarge it a bit if need be. My concern is if the knot "rattles around" in the hole, how do I best secure it?
If the knot was a " true " 26mm that was previously in it , then , your opening would be about 2 mm larger than the old knot ex. 28mm opening... Do you already have the new knot ? Have you tried a "test fit" ? Did it fit?
A lot of people put epoxy down in the hole and then put the knot in and twist the knot in the base to get the epoxy to spread.around the edges and it usually just works..
If you really have too much room around the edges you could always put an insert in to take up the extra space to make the opening the size that you truly need it
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- #7
I was trying to figure out what I could use as an insert. I'm hoping that I can just fill the space with epoxy like you suggested above.
Are you placing the knot at the same depth or are you going a little bit deeper? If you go a little bit deeper then the natural splay of the brush should fill in the extra.
You could always go to the hardware store and look for a little metal insert or possibly a plastic insert and put inside of it
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- #10
I think I'll see how everything fits once the knot arrives. I'll post pictures once I've succeeded in getting it set.
My experience is as jaro describes, that the bristles of the knot fill out the hole easily when the knot is slightly smaller than the hole, provided the knot is set deep enough.
@Steve_in_CT
The 25mm STF knot is not like any other regular knot as it is encased in a plastic insert.
I was told by Rudy Vey that I needed a handle with a 25mm opening, no bigger, otherwise the knot would move around and not center in the hole of the handle I had. I ordered one from APShaveCo that was set in the Shavemac Beehive handle instead. Jury's still out after about 5 lathers so far...
The 25mm STF knot is not like any other regular knot as it is encased in a plastic insert.
I was told by Rudy Vey that I needed a handle with a 25mm opening, no bigger, otherwise the knot would move around and not center in the hole of the handle I had. I ordered one from APShaveCo that was set in the Shavemac Beehive handle instead. Jury's still out after about 5 lathers so far...
I was going to post about the collar. A simple way to esure that it's centered while fixing in place is to wrap something like masking tape around the base.
If it's truly a 1mm difference, then that's about .020" radially, or about 4 layers of tape. As far as width, you don't need to cover the entire height of the collar. The bottom third will suffice, and in this way, your adhesive will seal the tape from moisture and rot.
Unanswered is how the slight width difference will affect the spjay of the knot. Maybe setting it 1mm deeper will adjust this? It would make sense to not glue the knot in place and take some trial runs.
Oh yes, in the STF thread, most of us are reporting that the STF knot breaks in a bit, so you'll want to allow for that as well.
... Thom
I've previously installed a smaller knot in a bigger handle opening without issue.
The epoxy comes up the sides enough to fill the gap. Just centre the knot carefully and keep it in a secure location for 48 hours, where it can't get knocked about.
The STF knot collar means the depth of the hole should be around 18-20mm if one wants a loft of around 56mm.
The epoxy comes up the sides enough to fill the gap. Just centre the knot carefully and keep it in a secure location for 48 hours, where it can't get knocked about.
The STF knot collar means the depth of the hole should be around 18-20mm if one wants a loft of around 56mm.
I often use a clear adhesive caulk (Liquid Nails sells one) instead of epoxy. The caulk fills well and the knot can be retrieved, which is seldom the case with epoxy. The liquid caulks set more slowly, though.
When I posted this earlier I also mis spoke when I said epoxy. While a lot of people Do use epoxy , I meant silicone as it is easier to correct if you make a mistake or decide to try a different configuration !! I have used both on different brushes before and they both worked and neither has came loose..
I meant silicone earlier when I mistakenly said epoxy...
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- #18
I thought about using tape, although I was leaning towards electrical tape as I don't think it is liable to rot if exposed to moisture. At this point I'm awaiting the arrival of the knot. At that point I'll be able to see what the fit is like.
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- #19
I've used epoxy on the half dozen or so previous reknotting projects I've done, but I've temporarily set knots with silicone caulk to allow me to adjust the loft. I've never left them set in silicone, as I was concerned that the knot might eventually work loose.
In silicone it might eventually , but mine haven't yet.. If they ever do then I will just put them back in again....I like the idea that the knot will be easier to remove in the future if it ever needs to be replaced.
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