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2016 "Gold Dollar" MOD Competition is ON!

Of course :blush: - I think I saw that mentioned in one of the videos about how to make scrimshaw, but obvious forgot all about.

Thank you very much for the input.
I am tempted to sand down my current pattern and try again, it will however be more difficult this time, as I have super glued the spacer in.

And to your pictures:
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:drool: :001_wub: :a50: :badger:
That is pure art, I wouldn't dare to shave with a razor like that.

That sir, is just astonishing. "Well done" doesn't even cover the pin
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Ha,, thanks. I'm sure you've seen the others I did for this set.
And I don't know if you ( or any newer guys) remember the GD scales I did. I don't think I'd lay these on a GD but the others were pretty cool along with crazy spine work . I musta' been outta' my mind!
 
Thank you Soren.

That is just one reason I never glue wedges in place. But not all is lost if you wish to redo them. I've done scrim on complete razors . In your case what can be done since it's not really doing anything is remove the wedge pin and naturally the hinge pin to give you free access to resand the surfaces . You may only have to go far enough to remove the smaller " flaws". Won't be absolutely necessary but you can fit a shim between the scales since the blade is gone to stiffen them
up a bit while sanding and redoing te scrimshaw. Also you may only have to lightly go over the lines you've already made depending how far you decided to sand.

One other trick you may consider is once sanded a coat of CA to seal /fill the pores, sand and then go ahead and scrim after laying on a good coat of wax. Most any wax will do but I always have a can of Renwax at hand on my bench so that's what I use.
 
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Thank you very much that is really great advise, and I wouldn't have thought of it.

I think you just made up my mind to re-do the scales :001_smile
 
:blush:
Soren . Just for reference bone as you know is much more porous compared to say Ivory. One critical item needed for scrim on any surface is wax. You coat the surface, scratch some lines, add ink ,dyes paint etc. wipe and recoat with wax prior to the next scratches. Wax is used repeatedly even on Ivory.
In the shots here there is one example where I used different colors to achieve a barber pole effect. Without repeated coats of wax the application and separation of color would have been impossible. It also prevents the inks from finding every little nook and cranny on the surface you thought was perfectly smooth.
Just my .02 cents.

Daaaaang man. Those are awesome
 
We need to start another competition when this is over! I tore my ACL and meniscus yesterday and I'm going to be spending a lot of time at home the next couple weeks. Which means in the shop. Nothing like power tools and Vicodin!
 
Just gotta be super duper careful. it's like drinking and driving. Not necessarily on my recommended activities list because fingers rarely grow back!
 
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That's some kind of $5 ugly. I'm shooting for $5 ain't quite so ugly.
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That was then, this is now, ain't quite so ugly.

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My first try at modifying the blade, didn't get too carried away. Coated with GunKote, a baked on ceramic based firearm finish. Should hold up to the strop for some time, tape when honing! Scales are lacewood with several coats hand rubbed linseed oil to a satin finish.

If you look close at the tang you will see a streak of softer metal. Sandblasting to prep for the finish revealed a very uneven heat treating/tempering to this blade. Took two tries at the GunKote to get a mostly acceptable finish. At least the cutting edge appears to be evenly treated.
 
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That's some kind of $5 ugly. I'm shooting for $5 ain't quite so ugly.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________

That was then, this is now, ain't quite so ugly.

My first try at modifying the blade, didn't get too carried away. Coated with GunKote, a baked on ceramic based firearm finish. Should hold up to the strop for some time, tape when honing! Scales are lacewood with several coats hand rubbed linseed oil to a satin finish.

If you look close at the tang you will see a streak of softer metal. Sandblasting to prep for the finish revealed a very uneven heat treating/tempering to this blade. Took two tries at the GunKote to get a mostly acceptable finish. At least the cutting edge appears to be evenly treated.

Wow, that's fantastic! Bravo, Zulu! For a first attempt I'm stunned! =)
 
Doesn't seem to, bake at 300. Don't honestly know much about metal heat treating.

I don't think the heat treat would be affected much till you get close to 400°F. There are types of Gun Kote that don't require baking at all, or if you do heat the part it wouldn't need more than boiling water. =)
 
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That's some kind of $5 ugly. I'm shooting for $5 ain't quite so ugly.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________

That was then, this is now, ain't quite so ugly.

View attachment 668195

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My first try at modifying the blade, didn't get too carried away. Coated with GunKote, a baked on ceramic based firearm finish. Should hold up to the strop for some time, tape when honing! Scales are lacewood with several coats hand rubbed linseed oil to a satin finish.

If you look close at the tang you will see a streak of softer metal. Sandblasting to prep for the finish revealed a very uneven heat treating/tempering to this blade. Took two tries at the GunKote to get a mostly acceptable finish. At least the cutting edge appears to be evenly treated.

Tremendous Bill!! Boy, what a contest this is going to be!!
 
Well done! I've got some Lacewood and I really enjoy it. My finish turned out a lot lighter than yours though. Nice job!
 
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