The search for my watch

[decraew]

Gentlemen,

Since I stopped acquiring razors, hones, shaving creams & soaps and other paraphernalia, I found myself with a bit of spending money. And, it is a truth universally acknowledged that a man in possession of a bit of pocket money must be in want of a good watch!

So I set about learning about watches. I learned a lot in the last few weeks. I learned that I want an automatic watch. I learned that a 2,500 USD watch should be called 'affordable' in this alternative reality. I learned that every 4 - 5 years after buying an expensive automatic watch, you can expect to pay maintenance at a cost that could get you a (admittedly rather Plebeian) quartz watch. I learned that it is not done to like & buy watches using Japanese movements, no, one should buy Swiss movement (ETA only, of course). And, apparently, BIGGER is BETTER.

Let me tell you, comparing different brands, movements, styles etc... gave me a terrible headache.

I still don't know which style I like better, but I decided to start by buying a dress watch. Call me an elitist, but I like exclusive, limited-edition style of stuff. On the other hand, I simply refuse to spend the price of a small second hand car on a watch, I find that simply ... decadent. Which doesn't make my task easier, as the prettier, more exclusive watches tend to be very expensive, and the cheaper watches are mass produced which is not good in my book.

One watch that drew my eye immediately is the Oris John Coltrane limited-edition:

I love everything about it, but two things: it is a tad small (38mm), and the price, which comes at 1,250 EUR (the cheapest price for it I found). That being said, if one of you guys own this watch and wants to get rid of it for, say, 500 USD, feel free to send me a message

So I set out looking for cheaper alternatives. For instance the Orient "Bambino":

Nice, but it lacks a certain je-ne-sais-quoi, something that sets it apart (like the bright blue in the Oris watch).


Anyway, I hope I didn't bore you guys too much,
Have a nice day,
Wim/Decraew

 

[corysold]

Thanks for posting this. I've been drooling over watches as well but could never spend what it takes to get something nice.

 

[Danuhoh]

Nice watches. IF they do not get funded I would look at the Tissot Visodate as an alternative. Very similar style and well made. They can be found in the $300-$400 range.

Edit: Also similar is the Hamilton Valiant, and in the same price range as the Tissot.

 

[coolcanuc]

Well, there are some rather expensive rabbit holes out there and you definitely found one. Good luck on your search. Try and choose a style or time period to buy from or collect. The Japanese autos are fine and price from mild to wild, but they are good quality.

 

[dws]

I second Tissot, if these are the styles you fancy.

 

[Guestabc]

3rd for Tissot, many with nice grade ETA movements, very reliable and a great bang for the money

 

[Doc4]

So I set about learning about watches. I learned a lot in the last few weeks. I learned that I want an automatic watch. I learned that a 2,500 USD watch should be called 'affordable' in this alternative reality. I learned that every 4 - 5 years after buying an expensive automatic watch, you can expect to pay maintenance at a cost that could get you a (admittedly rather Plebeian) quartz watch. I learned that it is not done to like & buy watches using Japanese movements, no, one should buy Swiss movement (ETA only, of course). And, apparently, BIGGER is BETTER.

Not sure if you are being sarcastic, having seen through the "received wisdom" of all that from the watch forums, but ...


... in the event you are sarcastic, and are willing to consider a high-quality Japanese watch, I'll suggest you browse here:

http://www.seiyajapan.com/collections/seiko

 

[Neognosis]

I second Doc4's post.

I am wearing a Seiko SARG007 right now that originated with Seiya Japan.

Though you probably SHOULD do regular maintenance, Seiko automatics have a reputation for running FOREVER and taking substantial abuse.

 

[rlsinaz]

Seiko divers are awesome. Lots of folks make dive watches that they give ratings to. Seiko attached their 300m diver to a submarine and took it down to 1000 feet to prove it. BTW - their 300m quartz divers have an adjustable movement in case the quartz isn't accurate enough. Mine gains about 1 sec/month.

My Invicta manual watch with a Seiko movement (hacks, winds) hasn't been reset for two weeks. It is currently about 15 seconds off. But a $90 Invicta sure won't meet the exclusive criteria...and I'm sure it won't last as long as my Seikos. Seiko does make some expensive, high end watches, though.

 

[patten1969]

"9b. Any attempts at promoting gambling, raffles or unauthorized use of this site for fund-raising is strictly prohibited, this would include, But is not limited to such things as charity events,"vote for me/someone I know in a contest", solicitations for medical treatment costs or political campaigns. This means that Kickstarter is also prohibited (and any sites like it)."

That said, why bother with watches that other people concoct with Asian movements and parts, that have no history, and may or may not have them assembled here? You are well on your way to discovering a world of excellent watches. Orient watches are solid, as are Oris, Hamilton, Nivrel, Limes, Maurice Lacroix, and many others.

 

[decraew]

Not sure if you are being sarcastic, having seen through the "received wisdom" of all that from the watch forums, but ...


... in the event you are sarcastic, and are willing to consider a high-quality Japanese watch, I'll suggest you browse here:

http://www.seiyajapan.com/collections/seiko

For the record, yes, I was being sarcastic

I have no issues with buying Japanese stuff at all, they have a commitment to producing quality, which I like a lot.
My problem with Seiko is that, until now, either the models don't really appeal to me visually, or they are too expensive for me ('Grand Seiko'). That being said, I didn't know they made cheap automatics, I thought their cheaper models are all either quartz or kinetic models. I hadn't seen the SARG007 in any store yet.

In any case, I would like to everyone who came up with an alternative! I'll have a closer look at the Tissot in any case.

 

[decraew]

"This means that Kickstarter is also prohibited (and any sites like it)."

Ah, didn't know that, sorry!

 

[adriang]

For the record, yes, I was being sarcastic

I have no issues with buying Japanese stuff at all, they have a commitment to producing quality, which I like a lot.
My problem with Seiko is that, until now, either the models don't really appeal to me visually, or they are too expensive for me ('Grand Seiko'). That being said, I didn't know they made cheap automatics, I thought their cheaper models are all either quartz or kinetic models. I hadn't seen the SARG007 in any store yet.

In any case, I would like to everyone who came up with an alternative! I'll have a closer look at the Tissot in any case.

I'm very intrigued by the SARG007, but it looks to me like it's a model for the Japanese market only. (I could be wrong). I'm going to try and check one out next month. It's got the same movement as the cocktail time, which I have and I really like.

I'm also tickled by the SARB015, but its very hard to find new.

I'm looking for a new daily driver, but torn between an auto or a high end quartz like a Grand Seiko.

 

[StillShaving]

A watch is a very personal choice. Neither the Swiss or Japanese have cornered the market, though they make great watches. If you want accuracy with a dose of je-ne-sais-quoi, then a high end Seiko/Citizen/Omega quartz may fit the bill. If you are looking for an inexpensive automatic then the Orient, Seiko, and Seagull should be part of your search list.

A few of the many Sea-Gull examples (here a copy of Nomos, which is a copy of Lange, which is a copy of ??):

A blue automatic Seagull:

One with a slightly larger case and a better movement - basically an ETA 2824-2 clone:

 

[Neognosis]

I'm very intrigued by the SARG007, but it looks to me like it's a model for the Japanese market only. (I could be wrong).

You are correct, it is for the Japanese Domestic Market. (JDM).

I like mine quite a bit. I will be probably letting it go in a month however. I am finding that I want a watch with a day display, in addition to just the date. When I replace it, I will probably sell it at a significant discount on Watchuseek. However, I really love this watch... so I might just keep it and wear it on weekends or something.

 

[Space_Cadet]

That Oris John Coltrane is gorgeous!

 

[flameboy54]

That Oris John Coltrane is gorgeous!

+1

I myself am a big advocate for Seiko. My small collection includes a Seiko 5 from my dad, a Seiko/Credor from my grandpa, a 1st gen Black Monster (on mesh!) and my daily driver, an automatic Grand Seiko. My only Swiss watch is a Rolex 6694 which wear only maybe once every 2 weeks.

For the good balance of quality and something out-of-the-ordinary my vote would be for a JDM Seiko. I'm certain that there's something that will tickle your fancy.

Good luck with your search!

 

[Nomad1600]

"9b. Any attempts at promoting gambling, raffles or unauthorized use of this site for fund-raising is strictly prohibited, this would include, But is not limited to such things as charity events,"vote for me/someone I know in a contest", solicitations for medical treatment costs or political campaigns. This means that Kickstarter is also prohibited (and any sites like it)."

That said, why bother with watches that other people concoct with Asian movements and parts, that have no history, and may or may not have them assembled here? You are well on your way to discovering a world of excellent watches. Orient watches are solid, as are Oris, Hamilton, Nivrel, Limes, Maurice Lacroix, and many others.

Nice to see Limes get a mention. A German brand that doesn't get a lot of play here. I have an old Klassik Cartouche that I believe has since been replaced with the Pharos Cartouche. Love mine:

 

[oc_in_fw]

I would put a Grand Seiko up against anything the Swiss put out.

 

[Doc4]

You are correct, it is for the Japanese Domestic Market. (JDM).

I like mine quite a bit. I will be probably letting it go in a month however. I am finding that I want a watch with a day display, in addition to just the date. When I replace it, I will probably sell it at a significant discount on Watchuseek. However, I really love this watch... so I might just keep it and wear it on weekends or something.

The site I linked to is one of the more respected Japanese sites that sells internationally the watches made for the Japanese Domestic Market ... so you won't see those watches in a store outside of Japan. They have a reputation of being of better quality than Seikos &c made for the US/world market.