The English Aristocrat Junior No.48. A Forgotten Masterpiece

[razorfool]

I was very fortunate to pick up an English Aristocrat Junior recently. I had been on the hunt for one for a while.
As often happens, fortune favours those who take a close look at bay photos. I saw a travel set with an Aristocrat Junior as part of the kit. The seller stated that this was very rare, and that it was a 1948 set. The components are all matching, and there is what appears to be a Gillette travel brush and a matching empty chrome tube for soap. The set is by Gresham.

What interested me was the razor. It appeared to have a Gen 1 TTO head, with no end caps. Achim's site as always was invaluable and I quickly identified it as the razor from a 1948 No.48 set. This normally came in a blue bakelite case with two blade banks.

So I bought the set, for an excellent price. While I was awaiting delivery, some googling on it brought up some interesting snippets. It was the first English Aristocrat Junior ever produced bearing that name, and it was only made for a short period. Also it seemed to be held in awe, evidenced from a few tantilising posts from forums. So I was looking forward to getting it.
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If there was a ever a razor that is worthy of a trip to Chris at BRG it's this baby. Actually the plating, apart from the lower and mid handle is in good shape. Mechanically it is flawless, smooth as silk. It has the Super Speed TTO action. It's nicely weighty at 60gms and is beautifully balanced.
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The head appears to be a Generation 1 TTO, as seen in the pre-war OC models, substituted with a solid bar guard. No end caps.
View attachment 1783893 The blade bar is fully enclosed by the silo doors. The bar is obviously un-notched. The base plate is a single piece casting which seems to give the blade a wonderful platform and rigidity.
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The interior is very clean. This was obviously a very well used and very well maintained razor. Experience with it would show me why.
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The base plate bottom, clearly showing the 430 030 patent number. It's in good shape.
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What I found particulary stunning was it's blade gap. It is immense.

Here is from left to right, the No.48, a 1953 English Rocket HD and a 1956 US Red Tip. The gap is evident.

Here is the magnificent Mrs Ladd modelling said razors, wearing a rather fetching cinnamon number. By the way, Mrs Ladd is available for razor modelling at excellent rates. Also available for weddings, bat mitzvahs' and reunions.

So, on to the shave.

Razor: English Gillette No.48 Aristocrat Junior
Blade: Gillette Wilkinson Sword Indian (2) A predictable and well behaved test blade.
Brush: English 'New Forest' Badger
Soap: Tabac
AS Balm: Nivea Replenishing
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For the first couple of WTG left cheek passes, the No.48 felt like a weighty and wonderfully balanced Super Speed. It was beautifully smooth so I was unconsciously adopting the classic SS carefree whip around the face method. Unwise. As I continued the pass I became aware of what seemed significant blade feel. This is a highly efficient razor, bordering on aggression. In fact as early as the first WTG pass I became wary. Or shall we say respectful. I caught my left nostril on the tab during the upper lip strokes. I never do that. The razor was making me nervous. A magnificent efficient first pass.

The XTG pass began to tell me a few things. I had never encountered such an efficient and almost aggressive Gillette SB razor. It shaved very much like a 195 at setting 8, maybe even a touch more except smoother. However, it was a joy to handle and use, rewarding me with a wonderfully efficient second pass result. Steep and it will bite, so I used a somewhat shallow angle. A classic DE89 30 degrees seemed to tame it for a first time user. I could have finished there and then. So close to a SSF result.

I was curious to see how it would behave on a final ATG pass. The answer was magnificently. A fantastic final clean up pass leaving a wonderfully deep-shaven neck, jaw and cheek result. My moustache area was icy smooth also, although I was awarded a couple of short duration weepers. She had not probably shaved for a few decades and quite naturally wanted a faint whiff of blood from her new owner. A very small price to pay for an amazing, efficient and superbly smooth shave. I had the impression of being shaved 'deep'. Hard to describe. I think that's known as an agressive shave.

My first chance encounter with the best of breed I suspect, the stunning Aristocrat Junior No.48. Deeply happy I pulled the trigger on this one.

If you see one, get it.

Don't know if you possess a Rex Ambassador, but if you do, what setting on it, would simulate your fantastic catch? Just curious.

 

[razorfool]

Hi Theodore!

I've been digging around a bit and it appears the No. 48 AJ shares the same head as the Aristocrat No. 21

Compared to the Aristocrat Junior No. 48
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From Achim's site

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From your pics and description it looks like the Australian No. 15 is the third razor to use this head! Great stuff.

I would be interested if you could check the gap also. This trio seem the most extreme in aggression and efficiency. They are wildcats. Be mindful and tuned in when using it.

The slightly later 40's Aristos and Aristo Jnrs are also very efficient and aggressive by SB Gillette razor model standards so they are no slouches either.

Please tell us how it shaves!

interesting, the blade holding apparatus appears to be similar our Ranger Tech and 47 Aristocrat Junior and my 46 Aristocrat. Never an exposure issue with the blade, always the same.

 

[Alum Ladd]

Don't know if you possess a Rex Ambassador, but if you do, what setting on it, would simulate your fantastic catch? Just curious.

I have only really compared it to the 195 and it shaves like one on setting 9 or more but with significant differences in angle. The blade edge seems to stick out much more parallel to the head than on the US heads, especially later ones. There is also positive blade exposure.

It gives you a ton of angles to play with, factoring in the large gap, but you have to use it with some respect. It will reward any misssteps with a bite and it can bite quite hard.

 

[razorfool]

I have only really compared it to the 195 and it shaves like one on setting 9 or more but with significant differences in angle. The blade edge seems to stick out much more parallel to the head than on the US heads, especially later ones. There is also positive blade exposure.

It gives you a ton of angles to play with, factoring in the large gap, but you have to use it with some respect. It will reward any misssteps with a bite and it can bite quite hard.

Reminds me of my New Improved Bostonian! I have to be a little careful with it also. Having semi mastered Shavettes, my nicks with DEs seems to be a non occurrence. Thank you for your update.