Started on cheaper stones whetstones 1k, 5 10 and a $40 naniwa 12k. Looking to get some nicer stones. Not looking to so spend hundreds per stone, but still want something nice. Have not tried natural stones yet, but if they are that much better I’d be willing to learn. Looking at Shapton 1, 4, 8, and 12. Possibly the 16k glass one too. Anyone start on synthetics and finish/polish on a natural?
Stone recommendations
- Thread starter Sam0917
- Start date
I have been using Naniwa synthetic stones, progressing to a hard black Arkansas stone for finishing. I was finishing on the 12k SS before I picked up the natural finisher and my edges were good. Still trying to get the most out of my Dan’s Ark, but like the stone and the edges I’m getting now. I have little experience with natural stones.
I'll often set the bevel with synthetics (Shapton Glass stones, usually), but after that it is all naturals. I tend to go through fazes, at the moment I'm on a coticule kick again, but I have and use all sorts.
I have a Shapton Glass 2k, and love it for bevel setting. Cuts quick and uniformly, meaning the next step is pretty straightforward.
I have a Shapton Kuromaku 5k and a Naniwa Gouken 8k, so sometimes I go synthetic to 8k and then finish on a natural. More often than not, I'll go natural once the bevel is set.
I'd first invest in a nice natural finisher: you can't go wrong with a hard ark from Dan's. Lovely, crispy edges.
I have a Shapton Kuromaku 5k and a Naniwa Gouken 8k, so sometimes I go synthetic to 8k and then finish on a natural. More often than not, I'll go natural once the bevel is set.
I'd first invest in a nice natural finisher: you can't go wrong with a hard ark from Dan's. Lovely, crispy edges.
I use a synthetic progression then transition to natural. I started with coticule and translucent Arkansas with limited success, then acquired some Jnats. In my experience Jnats were much easier to achieve results with. At this point, I'm able to get very good results finishing with my translucent Arks and Jnats, wth my preference going to Jnats. The key is getting your synthetic progression to a pre-finisher stage before starting on natural stones.
The shapton pro series and the new naniwa goken (new chosera???) are reasonably priced. I recommend the goken 800 for heavier work. The 1500 shapton pro is my go to bevel setter on razors in good shape. Both of those are my favorite synthetic stones so far. Nice feedback, fast, dish slowly, don’t load up much and when they do it is easy to remove.
The old chosera 1k was great too but more money because it was thick.
The mid range synth I use is a 4k naniwa hayabusa. Fairly priced. Removes the 1500 scratches and leaves a great polish for cutlery or when you want to move on to next steps in razor finishing.
There are a ton of Japanese synth stones out there; bewildering numbers. Probably most coarse ones will get the bevel setting done. I don’t know much about synth finishers.
The old chosera 1k was great too but more money because it was thick.
The mid range synth I use is a 4k naniwa hayabusa. Fairly priced. Removes the 1500 scratches and leaves a great polish for cutlery or when you want to move on to next steps in razor finishing.
There are a ton of Japanese synth stones out there; bewildering numbers. Probably most coarse ones will get the bevel setting done. I don’t know much about synth finishers.
In hindsight, I wound up with an essay, I hope that’s not too much information for your quite straightforward question. The short answer would be “stick with Naniwa, something like 1,2,4,8k, and finish on the 12k you already have. Avoid the Shapton glass 16k at all costs for at least a year, it‘s a very, very fussy stone. Instead, make sure you can flatten your 1k (diamond plates are convenient), and check flatness with a machinist straight edge. This will help ensure your foundation bevel setting is in good shape before you start polishing.
———
In general, the more you stick with one brand and line of stones when starting out, the easier life will be. I came from 8 years sharpening every type of knife with all kinds of stones, thought I knew what I was doing when I got to razors, thought I could easily mix and match stones, and made life a lot harder for myself.
I don’t think there’s a right or wrong brand, but Naniwa Pro (chosera), Shapton Glass and Shapton pro are all classic sets. From my limited experience, I’d recommend them in that order. Worth saying that’s probably a descending order of cost as well. In general I think the Naniwas act a bit finer for a stated grit than the Shaptons, so mixing and matching can cause issues (e.g. a Naniwa 1k cuts scratches about as deep as a Shapton 1.5k). Naniwa also polishes a little better, which is what I personally want for razors. I‘m not looking as much for the toothy-ness that makes Shaptons good tool and knife stones. But at that point I’m splitting hairs a bit, they’re all quality lines of stones.
If you’re interested in Shapton Glass, I think they recommend the 1,3 and 10k for razors, and word on the forum-street tends to agree. Having a ~5k in there will help bridge the 3k to 10k jump. Myself and many others have found the 16k shapton glass is a very difficult stone to use well - there are several threads on the forum talking about it. I would stick with the Naniwa 12k. It will polish to about the same level as the SG 16k (remember, slightly different numbering systems), but will be much more friendly to you while you’re learning. The 16k is really, really, not beginner-friendly.
The key to a whole razor stone setup is a good 1-2k ’bevel-setter’. Get a new, high-quality stone for that. None of that ‘sharp pebble’ rubbish. Harder stones help establish clean crisp geometry to start. Get a good diamond flattening plate and a machinist straight edge to help keep this stone dead-flat (each can be had for $20-40, are indispensable, and good for all kinds of shop tasks - worth the money even if you quit razors next week). Flattening without a straight edge is like driving without defrosting the windshield. You can get away with it, but you really have no idea where you’re going. If you don’t get a nice clean, crisp, refined edge, or made a rounded bevel on the 1k, no other finer stone will correct that. You’ll just polish a rounded bevel and not make the razor any shaper at the actual edge. But when you nail that, everything after the bevel-set is polishing, patience, and hopefully a lot of fun. Making sure you can easily shave arm hair from the 1k stone is a decent sanity check to know you’re about ready to move on.
Once you can shave pretty happily off an 8-12k synthetic, start adding naturals after that, and the fun will go on.
———
In general, the more you stick with one brand and line of stones when starting out, the easier life will be. I came from 8 years sharpening every type of knife with all kinds of stones, thought I knew what I was doing when I got to razors, thought I could easily mix and match stones, and made life a lot harder for myself.
I don’t think there’s a right or wrong brand, but Naniwa Pro (chosera), Shapton Glass and Shapton pro are all classic sets. From my limited experience, I’d recommend them in that order. Worth saying that’s probably a descending order of cost as well. In general I think the Naniwas act a bit finer for a stated grit than the Shaptons, so mixing and matching can cause issues (e.g. a Naniwa 1k cuts scratches about as deep as a Shapton 1.5k). Naniwa also polishes a little better, which is what I personally want for razors. I‘m not looking as much for the toothy-ness that makes Shaptons good tool and knife stones. But at that point I’m splitting hairs a bit, they’re all quality lines of stones.
If you’re interested in Shapton Glass, I think they recommend the 1,3 and 10k for razors, and word on the forum-street tends to agree. Having a ~5k in there will help bridge the 3k to 10k jump. Myself and many others have found the 16k shapton glass is a very difficult stone to use well - there are several threads on the forum talking about it. I would stick with the Naniwa 12k. It will polish to about the same level as the SG 16k (remember, slightly different numbering systems), but will be much more friendly to you while you’re learning. The 16k is really, really, not beginner-friendly.
The key to a whole razor stone setup is a good 1-2k ’bevel-setter’. Get a new, high-quality stone for that. None of that ‘sharp pebble’ rubbish. Harder stones help establish clean crisp geometry to start. Get a good diamond flattening plate and a machinist straight edge to help keep this stone dead-flat (each can be had for $20-40, are indispensable, and good for all kinds of shop tasks - worth the money even if you quit razors next week). Flattening without a straight edge is like driving without defrosting the windshield. You can get away with it, but you really have no idea where you’re going. If you don’t get a nice clean, crisp, refined edge, or made a rounded bevel on the 1k, no other finer stone will correct that. You’ll just polish a rounded bevel and not make the razor any shaper at the actual edge. But when you nail that, everything after the bevel-set is polishing, patience, and hopefully a lot of fun. Making sure you can easily shave arm hair from the 1k stone is a decent sanity check to know you’re about ready to move on.
Once you can shave pretty happily off an 8-12k synthetic, start adding naturals after that, and the fun will go on.
Last edited:
