Need some shoe recommendations.

[Whisky]

I will not buy AE new ever again. My last two pair were flawed, one replacing the other.

Maybe some used vintage if you’re good with that, but otherwise… you’re overpaying for bad quality with current production

Do you mind explaining what was wrong with them? Did you buy them in store where you could see them first or online?

I’ve heard their quality has declined in the past decade, so issues like you had are of interest to me.

 

[Gamecock]

Why do people insist on wearing brown shoes with grey, blue, or black suits? It makes them look like they went shopping at good will. Now, oxblood or cordovan is nice, but brown? Give me a break. Black is better and goes with anything. Fashion is a funny thing. What is en vogue now, will look as silly as it really is a five years.

Rant over.

Brown is just in fashion. Unless you’re going to a very formal wedding or a funeral, or wearing a black suit…then brown is the way to go today. Darker browns with darker suits, but black

Do you mind explaining what was wrong with them? Did you buy them in store where you could see them first or online?

I’ve heard their quality has declined in the past decade, so issues like you had are of interest to me.

I had to returned several. This is from someone who has 6 pairs of older AE. Those pairs had issues, but minor and acceptable at the sale price point.

This last time I returned them for 1) Badly Slanted toe cap, 2) Shorter toe cap on one shoe, 3) Ridiculously bad piece of wrinkled leather. Those were the last 3 when I tried to order 5th Avenues during the last big sale. 3 unacceptable pairs in 3 tries. All ordered on line but picked up at the local store so I could take a look. It was comical. I cancelled and took a chance and ordered BlkBrd based on web / YouTube reviews and they were literally perfect for less money. I’m going to try Bridlen next when I need another pair. I wear dress shoes 3-4x per week.

….and to the comments above, almost always brown. I have a pair of black for funerals and some weddings, but brown is a far better look these days with blues and grays. Darker browns with the darker suits.

 

[NorthwestCorner]

I was in a similar boat.

Twenty years in metal fabrication. Steel toe work boots were a requirement. Now a child-free house husband and I can wear what’s comfortable.

I bought a half-dozen pair of Frye dress boots and shoes. Made in Mexico. I like them because they tend to be a little narrower than most, and a better fit for me. Built with traditional methods-NOT a bunch of foam and glue. Much lighter than work boots. Some have thin rubber soles and some are just leather. Frye are known as America’s oldest continuously operating boot-maker. They also offer American-made boots. I just preferred the Made in Mexico price point. (I haven’t bought PRC shoes in thirty years)

I’m also a fan of some of the generic Brazilian leather shoes they carry at Men’s Warehouse and Nordstrom Rack. I’ve actually had one of my oldest (25yrs) pairs re-soled. Again, made with traditional methods.

 

[CdnShaveGuy]

I wear these Clarks Oxford Cap in brown and black for everyday casual, jeans right up to dress pants. They're inexpensive, well made and this model in particular is very, very comfortable to wear… Cushioned soles and soft heals that don't cut into your skin.

Plenty of others styles as well. This particular style comes in Wide fit as well.

Many of shoe stores stock Clarks so if you go find you size, almost always other styles will fit the same so if the store doesn't stock the style you want, just buy from their online store.

Clarks has sales regularly too!

 

[Doc4]

I own mostly Allen Edmonds, but their quality has dropped like a rock. I would steer clear these days

I am a big fan of Allen Edmond. I have many pairs that are 30 years old and look great.

These two statements are not inherently contradictory.

Also, price wise for Allen Edmonds is it better to buy at one of their stores or a Dept. Store like Nordstroms?

If you know your size, shop used or NOS on eBay.

 

[sylbub]

Why do people insist on wearing brown shoes with grey, blue, or black suits? It makes them look like they went shopping at good will. Now, oxblood or cordovan is nice, but brown? Give me a break. Black is better and goes with anything. Fashion is a funny thing. What is en vogue now, will look as silly as it really is a five years.

Rant over.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Depends on where you are. In Italy and France common but I guess in the US not so by your comment.

Here a random pic grab:

If that had been an earthy (brown or green spectrum) colour jacket, I would be happy to go with brown shoes, but with that grey jacket over dark blue legwear, I'd have to go for black or grey. Sorry Hannes.

I tend to gravitate in terms of landscape paintings for colour choices. Sea and sky, desert and rocky outcrop, river and riverbank, fields and hills, and so on. Not just the colours, but the hues too, with black tending to be mostly neutral. For example, olive trousers to me suggests dimly lit greenery, so dark brown shoes and a fairly muted shirt would fit the mood of that "painting". Whereas that grey jacket over those dark blue trousers, suggests more of a rolling fog over dark seas... and I can't place a solid brown in that picture in my minds eye.

 

[Doc Dan]

See, that guy was proof that psychiatrists are crazy. He was probably a fur trapper who was beating on my favorite baby seal with a lead filled snow shoe.

 

[Multum in parvo]

If that had been an earthy (brown or green spectrum) colour jacket, I would be happy to go with brown shoes, but with that grey jacket over dark blue legwear, I'd have to go for black or grey. Sorry Hannes.

I tend to gravitate in terms of landscape paintings for colour choices. Sea and sky, desert and rocky outcrop, river and riverbank, fields and hills, and so on. Not just the colours, but the hues too, with black tending to be mostly neutral. For example, olive trousers to me suggests dimly lit greenery, so dark brown shoes and a fairly muted shirt would fit the mood of that "painting". Whereas that grey jacket over those dark blue trousers, suggests more of a rolling fog over dark seas... and I can't place a solid brown in that picture in my minds eye.

What works in Florence or Milano might not work in London.

Of those 4 Guys only No. 3 with the open jacket can‘t pull it off.

 

[dojpros]

Mild thread ramble:
1. I started in shoe game when I spent 99.99 for a set of Florsheim Imperials in the summer of 1981 when I started a job at Macys.
2. I pivoted to AE seconds and some dabbling with Bally.
3. I always loved vintage/thrift shopping and bought multiple pairs of AEs during both my past sales and present 30+ year legal career. I got hardcore for the hunt during COVID and have 4 pairs that I have no more than 400 USD in, total, to include resoles.
4. My personal opinion and that of my cobbler is that AEs have slipped since the sale to investment banker types in 2006. That slipping got worse after the next round of sales in 2013 and 2016. My most recent pair were made in 2008 and are noticeably lighter in weight than similar AE shoes of an earlier vintage.
5. My cobbler is very high on Grant Stone despite the fact they are made in China. Admirably, GS has been hyper transparent about the country of manufacture.
6. Based on my personal experience, I concur that direct to consumer brands like Thursday Boots and Jack Erwin all exceed the intersection of quality/value in the 200-500 retail USD space and are far better made than today's AEs.
7. Cole Haans, Bostonians, Florsheims, Stacy Adams and Johnston and Murphy's are even worse than AEs in terms of quality slippage.
8. My go to remains buying vintage of of ebay with a stated goal of 25%-33% of retail presuming new soles and heels at 75. Many times, I simply have to add a heel tap when I find a pair that were slightly worn.

 

[Whisky]

For those of you that have purchased AE shoes recently as well as in the past has the sizing remained consistant? I may go to the local AE shop and try on a few pair to see what size I need then start hunting online for some vintage pairs.

 

[Gamecock]

For those of you that have purchased AE shoes recently as well as in the past has the sizing remained consistant? I may go to the local AE shop and try on a few pair to see what size I need then start hunting online for some vintage pairs.

Constant within the same last. So, a 65 last is the same as a 65 last has always been. Of course, there are some significant sizing differences between different lasts. I wear a 10.5D in a 65 last. I wear an 11 in some others.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

What works in Florence or Milano might not work in London.

Of those 4 Guys only No. 3 with the open jacket can‘t pull it off.

View attachment 2021845

No.2 works, to my eye. There's enough blue in that to soothe my bias. I'd have to go for black shoes with the other suits though. That said, if they wore just the same colour trousers and had more colour above the waist, I might lean more towards a brown shoe. It's the sheer dominance of grey in those outfits, that would steer me to black footwear. Just my own personal sensibilities, and anyone within a thousand metre radius may disagree with me, never mind further afield.

 

[blantyre]

I would not rule out AE - they may not be quite up to their best days but there are still some high quality and well made shoes in their range. They also make a very wide range of widths which is where Alden is weak. They still offer some of the classic styles in all leather and bunch of more modern styles with molded soles. Seconds typically have minimal defects and about 1/2 price. A completely different set of styles is Crown Northampton. Innovative styles in interesting leather options. I have tried them and they are comfortable and very well made. I also bought some Loakes a few years ago - decent classic English made leather shoes - also offered in wide widths.

If you don't object to buying used there are sometimes some excellent lightly used shoes on ebay for next to nothing. As long as you know your size well, typically no returns. Realistically, if you'll use a brush made out a dead badger and rub it all over your face and say how great it is, how bad can it be to wear a pair of shoes made out a dead cow that someone else has worn? Especially after a dusting powder.

As for colors, I reserve judgement. I have a couple of black pairs but very rarely wear them. That said, when you need them, nothing else will do.

 

[Whisky]

I’ve been looking at AE on the big auction site and there are plenty of pairs from the 70-early 90s for well under $100. I’m thinking of buying 1-2 pair and immediately sending them to AE to be “re-crafted”. even with their most expensive rework they’d still be about 1/2 the cost of a new pair.

 

[dojpros]

Whiskey,

That is a strategy. I have "heard" that will typically only work if the shoes has never had any prior work outside of the AE recraft world. I do not know that to be sure and would call ahead before shipping.

In KCMO, I pay no more than 75USD for full soles/heels/taps/off foot shine.

 

[Whisky]

Whiskey,

That is a strategy. I have "heard" that will typically only work if the shoes has never had any prior work outside of the AE recraft world. I do not know that to be sure and would call ahead before shipping.

In KCMO, I pay no more than 75USD for full soles/heels/taps/off foot shine.

I’ve been doing some research and apparently they re-machine stitch the welt so they have to move over slightly before making new holes. They can only be recrafted 2 maybe 3 times before the upper has so many holes in them that they can’t be recrafted again. Seems consensus is use a local cobbler who will hand stitch the same holes. Problem is buying used you don’t know if they’ve been recrafted in the past.

 

[game misconduct]

my wife bought a few pairs of shoes for me from a store/.brand called aldo(yeah its one of those trendy brands) the dress and sneakers are surprisingly comfortable. not sure if its only a local store to so cal though. might be worth your time to pack the wife up and spend the day shopping if there is a store near you

 

[Natsoi]

I’m sad no one has yet mentioned good English shoe makers like Cheaney and Crockett & Jones. They should be in or very close to your price range I’d think.

 

[Jut]

I’ve been doing some research and apparently they re-machine stitch the welt so they have to move over slightly before making new holes. They can only be recrafted 2 maybe 3 times before the upper has so many holes in them that they can’t be recrafted again. Seems consensus is use a local cobbler who will hand stitch the same holes. Problem is buying used you don’t know if they’ve been recrafted in the past.

Maybe try the Shoebank. I've had good luck; sometimes it takes a bit of patience.