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JoWolf’s Lather Slide

Shogun Showdown

The Kai. Elusive in the market place. Extra Yen demanded when found. Not a bargain blade. Cardboard box. A plain white wrapper covering an unmarked blade. Sans wax, thank you Kai. Environmentally correct. ISO rinsed the blade, blown dry, oiled edges locked and loaded.
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Blades are just as subjective as any other part of the kit. I respect and agree with the blade reviews on blades that I’ve used. The Razor Blade Sharpness Summary with Comparison Chart - https://www.refinedshave.com/razor-blade-sharpness-summary// have a first out of the box sharpness number. Feather-32. Gillette Nacet Stainless-39. Bic Chrome Platinum-40. Voskhod-42. Gillette Platinum-45. Shark Super Stainless-47. Merkur-53. Kai Stainless Steel-53. They rate the feather as the sharpest. The first DE blade I tried was the Merkur. I found it to be harsh and uncomfortable. I didn’t try a second shave with one. The reviewer says the Kai sharpness measurements improve for the second shave. Never happen with me. I cannot nor will I argue with a scientific measurement. My understanding of a keen sharp edge. Drawing the edge through a load will dull an acute apex angle towards an obtuse angle. How that can score a sharper number when measured. I do not understand. I do understand that an obtuse edge can be more comfortable to many shavers. The Kai is an uncoated blade. The Feather a coated blade. My face & head shave can count as two shaves. I have never felt the coating wear off the Feather. It’s very sharp at the beginning to the end of the shave. All I ask of a blade. Continuity of edge, no breaking it in, no surprises. I read the review and knew the numbers before hunting down the Kai. People keep mentioning it, as or sharper than a Feather. If I don’t try one.. I might end up in a cold sweat screaming out of deep sleep. Obtuse angles dancing in my dreams. Maybe tomorrows shave will end the nightmares or create one. 🪶
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“The Dude Abides”

Kai blades the other Japanese blade always compared to Feather’s. I use short quick strokes. If a blade stutters through my seven day growth. The strokes is to quick for the sharpness of the blade. Single use Feather’s can slice faster than I can stroke. I seldom feel the blade and when I do, it’s light and smooth. I tried using Feather’s on a second Face & Head shave and the blade went harsh three quarters through the face shave. I’ve read reviewers state that it is the platinum coating wearing out and breaking down. My single use Feather maintains same sharpness start to finish. No stopping to change a flat, no limping in on an under inflated tire. Used blades are too much work. I applaud all shavers who find challenge and successful shaves using a deteriorating edge. My blade test is confined to a single face & head shave. Straight forward. How close and comfortable compared to the Feather.

My right cheek is the last and easiest shave area on my face shave. Trying the first strokes here to adjust razor angle. The razor angle for steep, a tad shallower than with the Feather. Returned to my mapped shave routine.
The first stroke and following strokes were considerably slower than my normal stroke speed. Duller edges take more time to cut through the same whisker load than a sharper edge. Plain pure physics. A longer cut time reduces the stroke speed to match the load resistance. Halfway through my first test stroke. I knew my ATG Single Pass shave just got bumped up to a two pass. My full face shave struggled on a harsh slow moving blade. Very close to shave and skin irritation. I was pushing the blade harder, then I wanted to. Finishing the second pass the blade harshness smoothed out a bit. While the head shave was less rough than the face shave. Obviously jagged teeth worn down. It also was a two pass shave. The blade still wasn’t smooth or sharp enough to increase my stroke speed. My typical shaves include both J hook and G-Slide strokes. Neither of which were used. Overall a mediocre overpriced blade.

I went back and reread the review.
Kai Razor Blade Review - https://www.refinedshave.com/kai-razor-blade-review/ After first use the blade sharpens from it’s (53) sharpness reading and goes to (43) sharpnesses. Voshkod’s are (42) The blade I feverishly campaigned and multi used up to six shaves. After Feathers my most practiced on and familiar blade is the Voskhod. My bold statement. The Kai ain’t half the blade the Voskhod is. The Kai is nowhere near the sharpness or smoothness of a Feather.

In my most humble opinion many dudes use smoothness as an indicator or judgement of SHARP.

My typical Feather shave is between a BBS+ to BBS+++ // smooth relaxed skin comfort.

Today’s Kai shave DFS+ to a Threshold BBS // slight skin redness (pushing the blade) light skin comfort, just above irritation.

Lebowski relaxing, melting into comfort. Very important testing and exploring unfamiliar sharp edges. The Dude would never work his butt off trying to get a comfortable stroke out of a dull blade. He’d bin it. Grab a new blade. Easier, less work. The Dude Abides.

 
Sorry to read the Kai blades were no Feather for you. Glad you have a Feather for next time.
Almost a relief Thom. I didn’t want to buy more blades. I have 60 Feathers (52 is a years worth) before I open the 200 blade pack. The blades can go past my 81st birthday. Me I’m not so sure. I was disappointed with the Kai and was hoping it might be better. It is Japanese. Maybe that’s why a lot of dudes think it’s sharpness and smoothness are comparable to a Feather. I don’t believe them anymore. My wife just got nine more blades for her bread lame.

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My job is to rotate the blade in the lame, when due. I also have to eat the bread.
 
Sunday Morning

Velvety soft boar strokes accompanying the creamy lather. Relaxing the skin into a deeper comfort. Anticipated gliding and gentle scrubbing, pleasure and luxury. Streaking strokes whisked through an eight day growth, silent efficiency. The attentive Gold Grande orchestrating a symphony of rapture. Sunday morning shave.

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Happy Shaves
 
Friday’s Shave

Four amigos exploring efficiencies, searching comfort. The creamy Felce Aromatica a fragrant forest presence. The big boar crowned with a heavy cloud of softness. Luxurious lathering cajoling deeper skin relaxation. A Harbinger bidding a second pass. The Grande’s quick whispered strokes. Flashed through five day whiskers silently. Smooth closeness expanding into a deeper skin comfort.

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Happy 🇨🇦 Canada Day 🇨🇦
 
Sunrise Shave

A sunrise shave challenged with a twelve day growth. I was very surprised with my skin dryness. A large difference between a seven day and twelve day skin. Shea butter penetrated the skin dryness and sealed the rough skin providing extra protection and glide. Big boar spreading a thick creamy lather. Gently scrubbing, peaking tips luxuriously caressing skin to a deep comfort. Grande’s limit for me is a twelve day shave. Beyond will start to clog hair in the teeth. No flossing allowed. Short quick strokes not available. Whisker load, lengthening strokes a tad, dropping stroke speed by half. A methodical gentle first pass. I don’t care for doing G-Slides. The extra whisker length required, G-Strokes. The razor head adjustment, moves an ATG stroke into a hybrid stroke. ATG preferred and more efficient. All strokes have their limits. My shaving efficiency becomes compromised on either side of a seven day growth cycle. A lighter second pass with minimal buffing finished an excellent Face and Head shave. Zero irritation and deep skin comfort. There’s always a price. The fine DFS got to a boot licking BBS. A small price for elevated comfort.

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Happy Shaves
 
My shaving efficiency becomes compromised on either side of a seven day growth cycle.
Hey, John! So it sounds like your preferred beard growth is seven days. I'm curious what you find different when you are either side of the seventh day?

I really liked you SotD picture...great kit. I hope you don't mind me asking you a couple of questions about it?

The SV Felce (Fern) would be considered a fougere, correct?

Over the past 3-4 months I've come to love fougere scented soaps, which started when I acquired a used set of Southern Witchcrafts Fougere Nemeta (soap/splash). I think SW has a reputation for kind of dark scents, but this one is bright and lively. The Chairwoman of my Finance Committee is at best indifferent to this hobby and at worst...well, I'll leave it with indifferent. However, the ONLY comment she has ever made is that she liked the scent when I shaved with it.

I've since picked up new Stirling Soaps Varen (soap/splash) and Shannon's Soaps Forest City Fern (Soap only). I absolutely love the Varen and am a bit indifferent to the Forest City Fern.

Near the top of kit I'd like to get next, includes another fougere scented soap. SV Fence and Martin de Candre Fougere are on the top of that list. Both soaps are pretty expensive, but I've read where they are ultimately a good value because the last for a long time.

How do you like your SV Felce? Sorry for the long lead up to this question!

I believe your Zenith boar brush is their biggest knot and a bleached knot, correct? I've read many posts how the Zenith unbleached boar brushes are top notch and have considered an order from yourshaving.com. I do have a Zenith silvertip badger that is a pretty big (~28mm) knot and find I like it more for my head than my face. I really like the look of the Zenith unbleached boar knot in the olive wood handles. I have a Semogue SOC boar and the Omega 10049 boar. The SOC came to me used and while the the tips are ultra soft, the backbone is less than I would like. The Omega I believe has an unbleached knot which I like, but the loft is a bit to high.

How do you like your Zenith boar brush and are there any characteristics that you would change?

Sorry for the long post!!!
 
Hey, John! So it sounds like your preferred beard growth is seven days. I'm curious what you find different when you are either side of the seventh day?

I really liked you SotD picture...great kit. I hope you don't mind me asking you a couple of questions about it?

The SV Felce (Fern) would be considered a fougere, correct?

Over the past 3-4 months I've come to love fougere scented soaps, which started when I acquired a used set of Southern Witchcrafts Fougere Nemeta (soap/splash). I think SW has a reputation for kind of dark scents, but this one is bright and lively. The Chairwoman of my Finance Committee is at best indifferent to this hobby and at worst...well, I'll leave it with indifferent. However, the ONLY comment she has ever made is that she liked the scent when I shaved with it.

I've since picked up new Stirling Soaps Varen (soap/splash) and Shannon's Soaps Forest City Fern (Soap only). I absolutely love the Varen and am a bit indifferent to the Forest City Fern.

Near the top of kit I'd like to get next, includes another fougere scented soap. SV Fence and Martin de Candre Fougere are on the top of that list. Both soaps are pretty expensive, but I've read where they are ultimately a good value because the last for a long time.

How do you like your SV Felce? Sorry for the long lead up to this question!

I believe your Zenith boar brush is their biggest knot and a bleached knot, correct? I've read many posts how the Zenith unbleached boar brushes are top notch and have considered an order from yourshaving.com. I do have a Zenith silvertip badger that is a pretty big (~28mm) knot and find I like it more for my head than my face. I really like the look of the Zenith unbleached boar knot in the olive wood handles. I have a Semogue SOC boar and the Omega 10049 boar. The SOC came to me used and while the the tips are ultra soft, the backbone is less than I would like. The Omega I believe has an unbleached knot which I like, but the loft is a bit to high.

How do you like your Zenith boar brush and are there any characteristics that you would change?

Sorry for the long post!!!
Hey, John! So it sounds like your preferred beard growth is seven days. I'm curious what you find different when you are either side of the seventh day?
As a cart shaver I was at three to four day shave intervals. I suffered through a half century of mediocre shave results with skin irritation. I always have been a BBS freak, before even knowing what that was. B&B, Acronym city. I came here as a minimalist. Harry’s razor, Plisson 26 mm silver tip a few hard soaps, and a few creams. That was not my regular shave though. Mid eighties I started head shaves, when you were either thought of as a skin head or a chemotherapy patient. Michael Jordan changed the look. All my face and head shaves were mirrorless in the shower after my work shift. Harry’s not around at the time I used Bic disposables. In big fashion at that time. My blind face and head shaves with canned foam kept me presentable. If only I knew what a shave map was. I would time work shaves so that I could have a weekend shave at home and explore luxury. Silver tip and creams mostly. If I shaved under three day intervals, irritation would dramatically increase. My shaves were planned around skin irritation and how much I was willing to handle. Under seven days will put me in an unfriendly hood.

My beloved Fatip Gold Grande will start to lose shave efficiency over seven days, not a good thing for a BBS freak.

I really liked you SotD picture...great kit. I hope you don't mind me asking you a couple of questions about it?
Nothing I like better.

The SV Felce (Fern) would be considered a fougere, correct?

I think so, I have limited knowledge of scents. I couldn’t tell you what hybrid the fern might be in the scent. Coming from Old Spice most all scents were an improvement. I’ve never been more interested other than I like it or I don’t. As far as scents go.

Over the past 3-4 months I've come to love fougere scented soaps, which started when I acquired a used set of Southern Witchcrafts Fougere Nemeta (soap/splash). I think SW has a reputation for kind of dark scents, but this one is bright and lively. The Chairwoman of my Finance Committee is at best indifferent to this hobby and at worst...well, I'll leave it with indifferent. However, the ONLY comment she has ever made is that she liked the scent when I shaved with it.

I haven’t tried any SW soaps. I quit asking my wife what scents she likes, she doesn’t like any of them. When she did remark on an SV scent. I explained to her it’s once a week honey. The fragrance will dissipate in three to four hours, and you don’t need to concern yourself about it for another week. She came home from shopping after my last twelve day shave and said “did you shave?” I said “how can you tell?” She doesn’t shave. I love my wife dearly, we don’t talk about shaves.

I've since picked up new Stirling Soaps Varen (soap/splash) and Shannon's Soaps Forest City Fern (Soap only). I absolutely love the Varen and am a bit indifferent to the Forest City Fern.

I bought a Shannon soap with my first Zenith Chubby Scrubby, a nice mid level soap.


Near the top of kit I'd like to get next, includes another fougere scented soap. SV Fence and Martin de Candre Fougere are on the top of that list. Both soaps are pretty expensive, but I've read where they are ultimately a good value because the last for a long time.

SV and MDC top of the food chain. I didn’t care for MDC as much as SV. If I had to use it I liked the fougere of the four samples I tried. I would describe them as a bit croap like. SV is a hard milled soap.

I use big brushes I never worry about a lack of lather. I will never understand a dude freaking out that he went .1 gram over his allotment for the shave. It’s soap. Do you think they measure out their shower soap as well?

Water, a brush, soap, agitation, lather. It ain’t complicated. I don’t over think it. I have never had a bad lather. Am I the only one? Blaming a poor shave on your lather well I’m not going go on about it. If you don’t have a good shave identify the problem and correct it. Don’t whine about the equipment. If it doesn’t work for you. Replace it.

Albeit there are dynamics as far as water hardness etc in different areas. Most North American cities have reasonable mid to slightly hard water which I used for decades. I live rural now in my retirement. Our well water is exceedingly hard. We soften the water and there is never a lather that isn’t excellent.

How do you like your SV Felce? Sorry for the long lead up to this question!

I went ga-ga the first time I used it, and it only got better.

believe your Zenith boar brush is their biggest knot and a bleached knot, correct? I've read many posts how the Zenith unbleached boar brushes are top notch and have considered an order from yourshaving.com. I do have a Zenith silvertip badger that is a pretty big (~28mm) knot and find I like it more for my head than my face. I really like the look of the Zenith unbleached boar knot in the olive wood handles. I have a Semogue SOC boar and the Omega 10049 boar. The SOC came to me used and while the the tips are ultra soft, the backbone is less than I would like. The Omega I believe has an unbleached knot which I like, but the loft is a bit to high.

I guess since the hairs are lighter it must be bleached. Bryan for the life of me dudes comparing the performance of bleached vs non is way above my pay grade. I have knotted three boars and bought another five, so limited experience. They all worked fabulously. To me the magic of boars is their race to Badger softness. Big boar is a very solid two band Badger softness. I don’t know if it can get to the silver tip softness club. And I know it well used one for over two and half decades. Time will tell of course.

How do you like your Zenith boar brush and are there any characteristics that you would change?

No. I thought the Chubby was going to be it, until I spotted Big boar. I never cared for the small handle IMO not a great brush design. It struggled to reach a top performance. A large knot my preference but this one too big for the handle. The reason it doesn’t get to rotate. I am ecstatic with my Locked Four. It took three years to develop my shave style and design. All my shaves are luxurious there aren’t any weak players. All high performers I can feel them trying to out do each other in every shave. Efficiency is Comfort.

The Gentle Shave - Zenith Shaving Brushes and More - https://www.thegentleshave.com/ where I bought my Zeniths he also markets on EBay.
Sorry for the long post!!!
Coming to B&B I thought I needed to learn DE shaving and to a point yes. A blind face & head shaver it was more of a transition. If you can drive a Ford a Chevy isn’t a whole lot of difference. B&B is where I finally accepted and learned that I don’t got enough skin. I was into my second year of shaving when it started to fall into place. Skin conditioning and skin care finally put my very comfortable shaves into luxurious. None of it was difficult. It was a methodical step by step. Anything that did not work above average in the shave got kicked off the game board. It wasn’t personal. I did not try to make something work into my shave. I tried around a dozen or so razors before I started to journal. I think I chucked a couple of GC razors with under a half dozen shaves on them. I was on a mission. Efficiency being Paramount.

I was a good shaver. In my third year I finally acquired The Touch. The Grande has exposed blade tabs, which you need for blade alignment anyway. I regularly find me landing the tabs on the back of my head not even close to doing harm. I sense and feel the tab, no harm done. That is what soft touch is. I have only nicked myself once. Behind the ear a lather mistake. It was in Grandes early use. I don’t shave weepers. That’s soft touch. About three times a year I might light up a tiny dot, which is gone by pass end. That’s soft touch. I have to hold myself back reading some shaves. It is mechanical basic strokes, well practiced with the Same equipment. I’m not special or original. All shaves are very personal mine is not better than yours. My focus is on the highest efficiency which moves my shaves into luxurious.

I did the kaleidoscopic run done the Disneyland midway, a lot of fun a lot of rides. My focus coming to B&B was to stop the bleeding.

I’m not knocking the fan boys in any given area of the shave. It is supposed to be a lot of fun. This is the most fun I’ve had shaving in the path I chose and planned. Not better, different.

I’m racked with arthritic pain across the shoulders and down the arms. I am so grateful I got something to take my mind off it in the middle of the night. I love B&B almost as much as the shave. Exchanging ideas and the friendships exquisite. It makes us all better shavers.

I don’t know if I satisfied your questions Bryan. We can go back anywhere and discuss with more details. If you like. Stay Well Bryan.


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Big boar and Chubby Scrubby

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The Zenith horse and chubby purchased. The others I set the knots.

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My first straight razor shave. Why didn’t I have a plan? The scars don’t even look that bad now.
 
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Morning, John!

Thanks for the thoughtful response and willingness to share what you've learned! I'm finding the best part of B&B is the interaction with others and sharing the lived experience of a hobby that we all enjoy. I want to reread your post and give it some more thought. I will circle back.

Be well and thank you!
 
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