How do you steep shavers get a smooth & satisfying shave?

[thombrogan]

In the past, I’ve had some smooth, close shaves riding the comb or safety bar. I believe they (the safety bar moreso) flatten the skin ahead of the blade leading to a more level surface for the edge to lovingly annihilate one’s whiskers. One would need to apply pressure on the bar or comb while avoiding pressure on the razor’s edge lest scraping/peeling/ouchiness occurs.

Naturally, one would need finesse, common sense, or lucidity to do so on a habitual basis. And that is why my occasional bouts of steep-angled shaving would have a S-tier shave and many more instances of me rocking in a fetal position huffing a stick of ARKO! for consolation.

When I have trouble getting to sleep, I assume most razors are designed to be used with equal favoring (in neutral and negative exposure razors) or equal avoiding (in positive exposure razors) versus being used with just the cap or the comb pressing skin flat or bunching it towards the edge.

I’m led to positive exposure razors reward shavers that choose a “side,” be it steep, shallow, or Right Twix.

 

[LRod]

If we look at most razor heads, they're shaped (between the top cap & safety bar) to optimally shave at around 30 degrees or whatever degrees it was designed to be used at. This isn't accidental!
Can you shave steeper or more shallow? Yes!
But the inherent design is to shave best at whatever angle it was made for.
That's been my experience anyways!

 

[JoWolf]

I use various razors and blades and usually get great shaves. The most obvious muscle memory (per razor) is the angle for each. Blade of course can affect things but I normally stay with around 3 different types unless I'm experimenting. And for each of those razors, I normally don't have to remember where I need to position the angle (even though I usually do). I can repeat some great shaves without having to stick to the same prep/razor/blade every single day: Place the head on my face, angle till engagement and go with no pressure!
That's all it takes!
Granted, it took me a couple years to get to that, but the point is that I eventually did. And I didn't do it with just one razor and blade.

Maybe it doesn't work for some but for me it has. Same angle (per razor) & no pressure is what I consider paramount in getting a great shave. Everything else is secondary. If it weren't like this for me, it'd be rocket science and it wouldn't be enjoyable then.
And back to the original topic:
All this without steep shaving which is rough no matter what (for me). And trust me, I'm not the only one that feels this way. So the steep theory being best really doesn't work for everyone!

All this without steep shaving which is rough no matter what (for me). And trust me, I'm not the only one that feels this way. So the steep theory being best really doesn't work for everyone!

LRod I wouldn’t call steep or shallow shaving as being the best or only way to go. In shaving my face and head there are some areas where shallow strokes are most effective for the curves and areas shaved. Just to throw a curve into this discussion ninety-five percent of my shave strokes are ATG with a few XTG strokes. I don’t use WTG strokes at all. That doesn’t make my shave practices the best for everyone. They work for me and are very effective in my personal shave. I still need to abide with all the proper shave fundamentals for an effective comfortable shave. As they say different strokes for different folks

 

[LRod]

LRod I wouldn’t call steep or shallow shaving as being the best

You actually did!
Post #13
"Steep angle shaving with a light touch is the most efficient in stroke count and comfort."
That's where my rebuttal came in!
But hey, I'm guessing now that you meant that statement as your personal preference.

 

[Blackland Razors]

I think a lot of this has to do with language. Steep and shallow aren't well defined so one guy's steep might not be yours. And some users talk about the angle of the handle being steep, but that doesn't necessarily mean the actual shaving angle is. I'd guess that most people who like to shave "steep" are using an angle within the usable that you're talking about because razors just don't shave when they're truly steep.

 

[JoWolf]

You actually did!
Post #13
"Steep angle shaving with a light touch is the most efficient in stroke count and comfort."
That's where my rebuttal came in!
But hey, I'm guessing now that you meant that statement as your personal preference.

Thank you LRod, I should’ve have stated that a personal preference doesn’t work for everyone. I do use quite a few not so main line practices in my shave. Especially my pre and post shave routines. I have never considered them the best nor compulsory to an effective shave. I did however work very hard to establish best practices for my personal shave and hope some practices may be considered by others to improve their shaves. Discussion being the main reason enthusiasts like ourselves try to help in our understanding our shaves.

 

[LRod]

And some users talk about the angle of the handle being steep, but that doesn't necessarily mean the actual shaving angle is. I'd guess that most people who like to shave "steep" are using an angle within the usable that you're talking about because razors just don't shave when they're truly steep.

How would the shaving angle on a DE not be steep when the handle is held steep?
Every single DE I have or have owned goes against this!
Also, I've seen some shave videos where they're literally shaving with the handle almost parallel to the face.
Some razor heads will engage almost parallel (I've tried it out of curiosity).

 

[JoWolf]

I think a lot of this has to do with language. Steep and shallow aren't well defined so one guy's steep might not be yours. And some users talk about the angle of the handle being steep, but that doesn't necessarily mean the actual shaving angle is. I'd guess that most people who like to shave "steep" are using an angle within the usable that you're talking about because razors just don't shave when they're truly steep.

Absolutely the only time you want truly steep is slicing your tomatoes.

 

[thombrogan]

the inherent design is to shave best at whatever angle it was made for.

On razors with positive exposure, that may pose a problem. Though it seems to work very well with a few. In general, I believe shaving outside of a design-neutral angle is to reduce exposure.

An exception would be shaving steep with a DEvette such as “The Coach” used by @Cal

How would the shaving angle on a DE not be steep when the handle is held steep?

A few twisty slant razors and a few ‘regular’ DEs curve the blade so the edge may be “neutral” with a comb-on/cap-off position.

Every single DE I have or have owned goes against this

I think the Blackland Dart and Merkur 45C are examples where a steeper-looking angle (handle hugging the face) provides a more neutral edge exposure.

 

[Blackland Razors]

How would the shaving angle on a DE not be steep when the handle is held steep?

It’s inverse, but I understand your point. Holding the handle shallower makes the shaving angle relatively steeper when using the same razor head. But the handle shouldn’t be used to describe the shaving angle on a universal level because every head holds the blade at a different angle.

So holding the handle at a 45 degree angle might make one razor shave steep but not another.

And, again, nobody (including me) knows how to define “steep” anyway.

 

[spacemonkey42]

One observation - there are some razors where the blade is much more flat and others where the blade is bent a huge amount. To have both shave with a blade angle of 30 degrees, the handle would be further from your face with the former and closer with the latter. Yet the blade would be at the same angle for both. So, like Shane says, the handle angle shouldn't be used to describe the blade angle across many razors.

 

[brianshave46]

Well all I know is that if I shave with any DE or SE razor at a steep angle (especially a GEM Micromatic bullet tip) my face'll get turned into sashimi lol. That was the exact challenge I had when I started shaving with traditional safety razors 8 years ago, trying to find the proper angle that didn't cause all this bloodletting. I shave with aggressive razors now (I have a tough wiry beard) and if the angle is perfect, I get a smooth close shave. Best I can hope for. If shaving with a steep angle works for you, awesome! YMMV. But for me, I'll stick with the smooth angle.

 

[kingfisher]

Put me into the shallow camp, too. I have well over a thousand open-blade shaves under my belt, and the concept of 'steep-angle shaving' just doesn't make any sense to me at all.

For DE razors, I go as shallow as I can go and still have the razor cut hair. I will even go one step further... DEs that are essentially designed to reward a shallow angle (like the Karve CB or the Chiseled face Legacy) are my favorite razors. Of course I always use a shallow angle with my open blades.

Steep-angle guys, you do you; but don't think you will ever talk me into changing my ways.

 

[amano]

Why risk cuts and abrasion? Just shave at shallow angles.

I shave at shallow angles with my shavette, and I get a fine shave everytime.

A shavette is the most difficult way to shave already. I don't want to make it more difficult than it can be.

The goal of shaving isn't to get the closest shave possible. It is to get an even shave.

 

[Kentos]

Why risk cuts and abrasion? Just shave at shallow angles.

I shave at shallow angles with my shavette, and I get a fine shave everytime.

A shavette is the most difficult way to shave already. I don't want to make it more difficult than it can be.

The goal of shaving isn't to get the closest shave possible. It is to get an even shave.

Well sometimes my goal is the closest shave possible. Sometimes a one pass is all the time I have. No absolutes in shaving.

 

[creamgravy]

In the 1930s and 40s there was a trend for a normal angle first pass, followed by a steep angle second pass.
The idea is for the steep, xtg (or E to W) pass to remove the remaining small hair stumps without damaging the skin below, which has been more exposed by the first pass. Keeping a shallow angle might remove a layer of skin.

It's a fantastic technique for those with acne, bumps, sensitive areas etc.

This is where all the asymmetric razors from that era comes in. Double Six, Neillite, Gibbs etc. A normal, aggressive side for the first pass and a mild, steep side the second.
I only use Double Sixes for most shaves these days, they're wonderful. Wish OEMs would revisit that theory and designs.

Modellers use a similar technique with craft knifes when removing mold lines and flash from plastic figures.

Mulcuto even made an asymmetric blade for each pass.

 

[musicman1951]

I always forget my protractor when I'm shaving, so I can't tell you the exact angle, but I tend to go a little steep. I find that when I travel with a different razor the usual angle doesn't always work as well. I don't know that it's totally razor dependent, but it can certainly make a difference. I also find that it's good for me to occasionally try minor adjustments to the angle to make sure I haven't gone too far in either direction. I get immediate feed back - the adjustments either provide a small improvement or they don't.

 

[Eric_75]

No absolutes in shaving.

 

[spacemonkey42]

Remember, 6 degrees is equivalent to one tick of the second hand on a clock. I am sure that my hand can not measure that accurately. I often try to start in a neutral position and then adjust by the sound to try to tune it in.

 

[Frito Ray]

The next Gillette advancement in razor technology will be a digital angle gauge that will beep different tones to warn user if he is using too steep or too shallow an angle.