Help/Advice fixing a Type E Injector…

[Gurpreet]

Hey guys
Looking for a bit of help here. I recently bought a couple of Injectors. One seems perfectly fine. Have used it as well.

The issue is regarding the other one. It is the one in the pictures. Seems to be a Type E2 maybe as per me since it has only one patent number and no striations on the guard bar like an E3.

But it does not seem to be an openable one to me. Rest you guys can maybe guide better from the pictures.

When I received it, there was quite a bit of rattle in the head. There was no blade inside. I think, being stored for so long without a blade inside may have caused the spring to lose some tension.

Well, I put in a blade and the rattle stopped to quite an extent. But now there was a play in the guard bar.

I referred to a few threads here especially the ones below:

The Eversharp Schick G Type Injector Razor - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/the-eversharp-schick-g-type-injector-razor.137589/#google_vignette


Best way to restore schick injector razor - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/best-way-to-restore-schick-injector-razor.242253/

A few others as well. Quite informative, really.

After this I wrapped the razor in a cloth and tried to push the base of the spring just above the rivet upwards towards the floating blade plate. Also tried turning it clockwise.
I am specifically using terminology used in the first link just to convey what part I am referring to.
Now the play has reduced somewhat but not by much. Slight play is still there. Basically when I push on the right edge of the guard bar it moves back and the left edge moves forward. And Vice versa.

I would like to ask you fine gents to kindly help me out here. These are my first Injector purchases.

Is there a way to tighten the spring or increase tension?

Is it a problem that can be rectified?

What could be the solution here?

Thanks so much for any help you guys can offer…

 

[Whiterook]

The only solution I know is the one you have already tried, forcing the spring tighter. Maybe someone who is more of a tinkerer will respond.

 

[Gurpreet]

The only solution I know is the one you have already tried, forcing the spring tighter. Maybe someone who is more of a tinkerer will respond.

Hey, thanks for the reply…
Could you elaborate a bit on how to force the spring tighter? Just want to make sure, that’s what I tried exactly….

 

[Whiterook]

I've covered needle nosed pliers in tape and forced the spring up. Don't overdo it.

 

[Gurpreet]

I've covered needle nosed pliers in tape and forced the spring up. Don't overdo it.

Thanks so very much. If it’s not asking too much could you point out, maybe from my pictures or any of your own, the grip used to force the spring up? Basically where to hold the pliers and how to use it exactly to push the spring up from which part?
My apologies, it may seem like too trivial a question. But I went through a lot of Injector threads and you seem to have done this a few times now…Best person to guide me through this…!
Thanks again…

 

[Tanuki]

This is probably too much information:

I have not had to tinker with an E, but I have tweaked a G for a friend. Rattling is a bad sign.

I would call yours a variant 5, based on the classifications outlined in this thread by BBS-1:

Schick Type E razors for dummies

The aim of this thread is to categorize the Type E razors in a way that is easier understood for the average collector so as such I will not being using Appleby's designations other than the Type E label to describe them at all. They will presented in chronological order with the variations that...

www.badgerandblade.com

I have a variant 5, as well as a variant 3 and a couple each of variant 4 and 6. I also had many colors of the type G, but I passed them along to mata_66.

The type E Schick heads underwent a rapid series of design changes. The type G seem to have settled on a larger (stronger?) fixed spring and striated guards.

If you look closely at the head, there are three primary components. The unit that incorporates the "cap" is firmly attached to the handle. The spring is riveted to the lower part of the cap. And the "baseplate" unit is held in place vertically by two small flanges that are part of the cap. It is also prevented from moving side-to-side by two larger flanges that are also formed from the cap unit.

The baseplate is then pushed against the cap unit by the spring. The spring is forcing the angle of the baseplate both up and back, into the angle of the cap unit.

The tension that holds the blade securely is generated by primarily by the spring, but also by the shape and springiness of the cap and baseplate. So rattling could be a result of lost spring tension or of bent/distorted parts.

Close inspection and comparison to other similar injectors might tell you more than I can determine from photos.

The razor could have been bent by dropping, by sloppy or forced blade loading, or by an owner who banged it on the sink to loosen up the crud.

I have a great variety of pliers, as well as light hammers and a variety of anvil surfaces. A light and careful approach is essential
Possible tweaks:
>Spring bending. If you are a bit devil-may-care you can disengage the top of the spring from the retention lug, rotate it to the side, and gain a lot of free play. Otherwise gentle pressure on either end of the spring arc is the best you can do. Grasp the end of the arc firmly and use a twisting motion in the direction that would cause the arc to widen. Easy does it!
>Correcting a bend in the cap or baseplate. Pliers or gentle tapping?
>Tightening one or both of the lower flanges.

Because loading blades always puts stress on the whole head assembly, I have my doubts that delicate tweaks will give lasting results. I have purchased all my Schick injectors over-the-counter, so that I can inspect them closely. Damaged blade stops are the most common fault, but there are plenty of rattlers out there.

I have quite a few vintage Schicks. Variety is the spice of life, but also I am not wearing any individual razor out by daily use. After a loaded blade dulls, that razor goes to the back of the queue.

I love my type E injectors, but I am sure the final Schick head designs were more durable.

 

[Gurpreet]

This is probably too much information:

I have not had to tinker with an E, but I have tweaked a G for a friend. Rattling is a bad sign.

I would call yours a variant 5, based on the classifications outlined in this thread by BBS-1:

Schick Type E razors for dummies

The aim of this thread is to categorize the Type E razors in a way that is easier understood for the average collector so as such I will not being using Appleby's designations other than the Type E label to describe them at all. They will presented in chronological order with the variations that...

www.badgerandblade.com

I have a variant 5, as well as a variant 3 and a couple each of variant 4 and 6. I also had many colors of the type G, but I passed them along to mata_66.

The type E Schick heads underwent a rapid series of design changes. The type G seem to have settled on a larger (stronger?) fixed spring and striated guards.

If you look closely at the head, there are three primary components. The unit that incorporates the "cap" is firmly attached to the handle. The spring is riveted to the lower part of the cap. And the "baseplate" unit is held in place vertically by two small flanges that are part of the cap. It is also prevented from moving side-to-side by two larger flanges that are also formed from the cap unit.

The baseplate is then pushed against the cap unit by the spring. The spring is forcing the angle of the baseplate both up and back, into the angle of the cap unit.

The tension that holds the blade securely is generated by primarily by the spring, but also by the shape and springiness of the cap and baseplate. So rattling could be a result of lost spring tension or of bent/distorted parts.

Close inspection and comparison to other similar injectors might tell you more than I can determine from photos.

The razor could have been bent by dropping, by sloppy or forced blade loading, or by an owner who banged it on the sink to loosen up the crud.

I have a great variety of pliers, as well as light hammers and a variety of anvil surfaces. A light and careful approach is essential
Possible tweaks:
>Spring bending. If you are a bit devil-may-care you can disengage the top of the spring from the retention lug, rotate it to the side, and gain a lot of free play. Otherwise gentle pressure on either end of the spring arc is the best you can do. Grasp the end of the arc firmly and use a twisting motion in the direction that would cause the arc to widen. Easy does it!
>Correcting a bend in the cap or baseplate. Pliers or gentle tapping?
>Tightening one or both of the lower flanges.

Because loading blades always puts stress on the whole head assembly, I have my doubts that delicate tweaks will give lasting results. I have purchased all my Schick injectors over-the-counter, so that I can inspect them closely. Damaged blade stops are the most common fault, but there are plenty of rattlers out there.

I have quite a few vintage Schicks. Variety is the spice of life, but also I am not wearing any individual razor out by daily use. After a loaded blade dulls, that razor goes to the back of the queue.

I love my type E injectors, but I am sure the final Schick head designs were more durable.

Thanks so much for taking out the time for such a detailed response buddy…!
I tried a couple of things mentioned here. First of all the lower small flanges had escaped my attention. I tried to prop them up for further support. Didn’t make much of a difference though in my specific case. But thanks to you I now have a much better understanding of the head assembly.
On closer inspection, the base plate corner in the left is closer to the top cap with the right one (key side) a bit looser. This is what is causing the play in the guard bar when pressed from either end.
Might be the spring at fault here. Especially since it came without a blade in it. Might have lost some tension over the years.
I was not able to try the Spring bending part successfully though. This might be key here. I could not access it from the side due to the flaps coming in the way.

I also concur that any solution found might just be temporary.

I am in India and so buying over the counter was never an option for me. I had to go to great lengths and pull favours with a friend coming back from the US to get these here…!
I wish there was a way to post a video of the play here…! Might have helped get a more accurate diagnosis.

 

[eSteve]

Hey Gurpreet. I like Type E, they're the only injectors I've used, I have five of them.

I can't tell if you've done it, you need to release the spring from the locking tab; to retension the spring. You want to gently wedge the spring away from the guard to release it from the locking tab, and turn it left. You are then free to retension the spring without tools.

With the spring free, you can now see how the guard is hooked to the main cap assembly, and open it. This allows manual loading of blades.

Retensioning the spring may fix your problem. That would be great. But it may not. If you close it all up again and it's not fixed, you have to wedge off the spring again and start wrenching the thing. Marks and scratches may start to appear. Not fun. And it looks like you have a nice unit there.

I had a problem similar to yours recently with a very nice E3. The guard wasn't closing completely, I could slide paper between the blade and cap. I was opening it, closing it. It was starting to scratch, I didn't want to wreck the thing. My solution was to use a larger dimension blade: a twin blade. It's pretty nice now. This might work for you, you have the other, working Type E. The Type Es all seem to shave the same so you wouldn't be missing anything by converting this other to twin blade use.

But you're going to have to find own way. Anyway, here is the link to my journal where I discuss my experience. You'll have to scroll down the page to Thread #107 of 12 Nov 2024. Good luck and have fun.

Twist-To-Open Exploration

Open Comb Exploration One My eighth and ninth GEM shaves. My first (very good) GEM shave was with this razor; the rest have been with the Bullet-Tip. I think I prefer the Clog-pruf. First time using the TOBS Sandalwood too. OC Ex Shaves Of The Day (SE Sunday, MM Monday) Cup: plastic picnic...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[Gurpreet]

Hey Gurpreet. I like Type E, they're the only injectors I've used, I have five of them.

I can't tell if you've done it, you need to release the spring from the locking tab; to retension the spring. You want to gently wedge the spring away from the guard to release it from the locking tab, and turn it left. You are then free to retension the spring without tools.

With the spring free, you can now see how the guard is hooked to the main cap assembly, and open it. This allows manual loading of blades.

Retensioning the spring may fix your problem. That would be great. But it may not. If you close it all up again and it's not fixed, you have to wedge off the spring again and start wrenching the thing. Marks and scratches may start to appear. Not fun. And it looks like you have a nice unit there.

I had a problem similar to yours recently with a very nice E3. The guard wasn't closing completely, I could slide paper between the blade and cap. I was opening it, closing it. It was starting to scratch, I didn't want to wreck the thing. My solution was to use a larger dimension blade: a twin blade. It's pretty nice now. This might work for you, you have the other, working Type E. The Type Es all seem to shave the same so you wouldn't be missing anything by converting this other to twin blade use.

But you're going to have to find own way. Anyway, here is the link to my journal where I discuss my experience. You'll have to scroll down the page to Thread #107 of 12 Nov 2024. Good luck and have fun.

Twist-To-Open Exploration

Open Comb Exploration One My eighth and ninth GEM shaves. My first (very good) GEM shave was with this razor; the rest have been with the Bullet-Tip. I think I prefer the Clog-pruf. First time using the TOBS Sandalwood too. OC Ex Shaves Of The Day (SE Sunday, MM Monday) Cup: plastic picnic...

www.badgerandblade.com

Hey bro
Thanks for the detailed reply…
I haven’t released the spring from the lock tab…yet…Simply because this model is not one of the openable ones and I didn’t want to risk damaging the piece.
By “retensioning” the spring, you mean enlarge or spread out the arc of the spring, right??? Any way to retension it without unhooking it or making it openable for the future?

It’s actually not about the amount spent on acquiring it, rather the hassle after which I got them here to me. I have seen a few videos where people have converted the non openable ones to open for manual loading and cleaning. But really, I just don’t wanna go down that path.

BTW, I already have a few scratches and marks appearing on the spring. Any way to get rid of them easily?

But the twin blade is a real brainwave. Although getting them here is another hassle…
At the moment I have about 80 Personnas for use with these two.
Also went through the journal… very interesting and informative…