Gold Dollar Honing Woes

[California Cajun]

Hola B&B,

I see a lot of people suggesting that honing-newbies stay away from GDs and look into vintage ebay razors, but I'm really in love with the idea of taking a $3 razor-shaped piece of metal and turning it into something awesome with my own two hands. I'm gonna keep at it until I get it right, but since I seem to be stuck I thought ask you kind folks for some help.

Any thoughts/advice?

Scott

My advice is the same as what I quoted from your post. If you enjoy the challenge of making a low-end razor shave well, knock yourself out. But if you are interested in learning how to become a straight razor shaver and maintain your own blade, avoid these at all costs.

It was helpful for me when the experienced members here listed certain razors to avoid, because in pictures on ebay or elsewhere they look good. If I had started with one of those and had the problems you are having I might have given up and blamed myself for my failure.

 

[global_dev]

you aren't using scales while honing? not that it's 100% necessary, but it helps to me with the balance.. if the spine and edges aren't aligned by spine width and edge distance, thats why the bevel is inconsistent width..

 

[Krodor]

For the initial GD bevel set it takes some muscle. I usually do it on a DMT 325 and it can take some time.

Thr Saran Wrap does not have the power for the initial phase of the heavy work needed.

Yup. I "325" my GD's to start that first bevel. I find I have to wale on even that rough stuff to wrestle it into submission.

 

[Firewalker]

My advice is the same as what I quoted from your post. If you enjoy the challenge of making a low-end razor shave well, knock yourself out. But if you are interested in learning how to become a straight razor shaver and maintain your own blade, avoid these at all costs.

After finishing a Resto on a wade and Butcher and two Soligens (name branded for two USA companies) this week and shaving with them all, I really have no idea what that means to avoid them (GD) at all costs. Even the W&B doesn't shave any better than my Goldisori and the Resto work on the W&B took longer than the modifying I did on to make the Goldisori.

If the steel is good and the edge is smooth and the whiskers pop off while shaving, I see no reason to not use it.

 

[Puerco]

Back when I started straight shaving I started with a Dovo, when I could not get that thing sharp I ordered some gold dollars to teach myself how to hone.
Since I was not afraid of messing up those I quickly learned how to do it, I think once the shoulder is removed/modified they are no harder to hone than anything else.
My Chosera 1K will set a bevel on them just fine with a little pressure in the beginning to get it started. I've had about 10 of them and I think only 2 of them were so rough I used a (cheap) diamond plate before the Chosera 1K. The higher numbers (I have 208 and 300) are more refined and way easier to hone than the 66.

 

[Seraphim]

A $4 vintage razor on Ebay will require just as much effort as a brandy new GD. Both will require some bulk metal removal to get into shape.

 

[genghishahn]

Howdy B&B,
I thought i'd update you all on my progress. My DMT 600 came in today along with my loupe. Five minutes on the DMT did more work than a week on the 12u film . I got the blade cutting arm hair! Win! I put in a little time to breadknife the edge to try and fix the bias and get a more uniform bevel width. I think a couple hours, tops, and I should be able to get the bevel set again. Thanks for the help everyone! I'll be sure to post some pics when I get the blade into the scales I've been working on

Best,
Scott

 

[Krodor]

Great! Magic, no? Be sure to add a little soap to the DMT and it will make less screeching noise

 

[genghishahn]

Magic indeed. I totally get the whole saran wrap thing now