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Blade Sharpness Research Project

@ecoshav , I was told Feather’s Seikan double edge razor blades don’t have PTFE coating (their Hi-Stainless do have PTFE coatin).

Urgh! I've used these in single edge format (the FAS-10) and they were the epitome of my words above ... both "rough" and "harsh". I do have some triple-facet PAL blues without PTFE and while they're a bracing shave ... it's one the I can complete. Those were SKU 62-0177 ... formerly 62-0163 (now AGBL-7019-0000), I believe. These were tested in this thread: Blade Sharpness Research Project - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/blade-sharpness-research-project.652790/page-39#post-12869658

I also have the pink packed Flying Eagle carbon steel blades in double-edge format, which I managed just three strokes on one cheek before switching out the blade. Absolutely not in the same game as Treet Black Beauties and were also tested in this thread: Blade Sharpness Research Project - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/blade-sharpness-research-project.652790/page-9#post-12766144

Curious, I had a nose around and found something on SMF forum from Paul at Suffolk Supplies (we know them better as Connaught Shaving) who wrote that he had it on authority from Treet that all their blades were PTFE coated. That post was from 2009, granted ... but the Black Beauties would have been an offering back then. I am sure he also posted something of that nature far more recently on TSR forum, but I'm yet to land on that post.
 
Hey Dan,
Have you ever heard of or tried Erbe Solingen DE blades?
I was just browsing on Fendrihan's website and ran into them.
Never heard of them:

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This is the Treet Classic. Based on the test and retailer description, it is a white carbon steel blade with a keen grind and silver based metallic coating. It is 95 microns thick, is the sharpest of all carbon steel blades tested so far, and seems to have some points that become more keen during the first paper cut with coating wear, even though a majority of the edge dulls from steel wear. A silver coating, an older technology developed for single use blades, makes sense for these observations.

I just used one of these for the first time today. I ordered them by mistake. I was ordering some shave supplies and meant to order Black Beauties, as I've been wanting to try a carbon steel blade, and accidentally clicked on these instead. Interesting that they are carbon steel left in the white rather than blued/blackened like other carbon steel blades. I also agree that these are a single use blade. The shave was extrememly mild, so these definitely aren't the sharpest tool in the shed. I used them in my AS-D2 and got what is probably the mildest shave I've ever experienced. That said, this blade coupled with a mild razor like an AS-D2, or a vintage Gillette Tech or Schick Krona just might be the ticket for someone with really sensitive skin.
 
This is the Grief Gold 0.06 Swedish Steel Griffin blade. It was made in Solingen, Germany, and is likely a special export private label product from one of the medium-sized Solingen manufacturers in the mid-20th century. It was generously provided for testing by @Space_Cadet It has a metallic gold ink colored wrapper with a griffin in the classic regional heraldry orange-ochre color. The blade flats have a golden coating on them, but it is not applied near the bevel, so it doesn't seem to be functional. The blade is exceptionally thin, measuring only 66 microns over the golden coating, so I don't doubt the steel itself to be 60 microns nominal specification as advertised. In the 50s and 60s, Solingen manufacturers produced 60 micron blades as part of a broader trend toward thinner blades after World War II.

This blade has a very mild traditional grind with good balance, but poor durability. It is definitely a one-and-done blade. The first one I measured broke during the first paper cut, so I re-started the procedure with a fresh blade.

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It looks a lot like a straight razor that has been honed on stones at one angle, and then stropped with a polishing compound. In the second picture, taken after the test, we see the failure mode of the steel was lots of medium shipping at the apex. I suppose that is to be expected from such a thin stock, but my only points of reference are thicker blades.

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It is probably the most similar to a straight razor edge of any DE blade tested, since it is super thin, quite fragile, very mild, and quite polished. I am definitely going to shave with one this week to see how it feels. I am guessing it is not as bad as the chart makes it look. It is an interesting piece to have a look at, with the distinctive packaging, yellow coating, thin steel, and very traditional grind.

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Date2-Feb-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.066
BladeWhite LabelGreifGold 0.06Germany1-Jan-1958
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.1411930
Median F (g)102110110110110
Mean F (g) Top98110110110110
Mean F (g) Bottom102104105109110
Mean F (g)100107108110110
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top136153153153153
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom142145146152153
Median Adj. F (g)142153153153153
Mean Adj. F (g)139149150152153

I think we can skip the other charts until the next report.

Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is a vintage Nacet blade that was made in France. It was generously provided for testing by @Space_Cadet It has a lacquer like coating over the flats, and I believe it is made from otherwise uncoated mild white steel. 100 microns thick, it has a very mild three stage grind with the limited durability I expect from older steels like this.

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The three stage grind is thick at the edge, but was done evenly with fairly good abrasives. In the second photo, after the test, we see the failure mode of the steel was lots of medium chipping.
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It is not related to any modern Gillette design, which is not surprising considering the changes in steel that came in the late 60s.

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Date2-Feb-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.100
BladeGilletteNacetNacetFrance1-Jan-1960
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.1518201713
Median F (g)81108104.5100106.5
Mean F (g) Top801009294103
Mean F (g) Bottom8010210399104
Mean F (g)801019896104
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top111139129130144
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom111141143137144
Median Adj. F (g)113150145139148
Mean Adj. F (g)111140136134144

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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is the Diplomat Platinum Plus blade, another Nazareth Personna product, generously provided for testing by @Space_Cadet . It has standard thickness, a mild grind, and soft steel, with poor durability and consistency.

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It is a three stage grind with typical abrasives, and a thick tertiary bevel. The other Diplomat had about the same grind, with a similar distinctive tall tertiary bevel. In the second picture, taken after the test, we see lots of large denting at the apex.

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Due to the denting, I suspect the poor performance may have something to do with the heat treatment of the steel. Sometimes soft steel that dents can provide a subjective feeling of smoothness, so perhaps someone would like how this one shaves if they like a very mild and smooth edge and are not too concerned about durability.

Looking at initial sharpness of the two Diplomats, I would expect the one with the Platinum coating to sit just above the cutting force of the Stainless version if the grind is the same, and this is what we see. I suspect that the specification is the same, except for a platinum driven metallic coating on this one, and it is plausible that the underperformance of this one is caused by a deficiency in the heat treatment.

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It seems plausible that this is a 100 micron nominal specification blade and that the measured thickness is due to forming or variation. The other Diplomat measured 99 microns, and I don't think this blade is old enough for imperial specifications. It might be older than I am thinking; I am not completely confident that I interpreted the date code correctly.

Date3-Feb-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.101
BladePersonnaDiplomatPlatinum PlusIsrael25-Nov-1980
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.1529282110
Median F (g)65110110110110
Mean F (g) Top71109110110110
Mean F (g) Bottom65808795107
Mean F (g)689499103108
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top99151153153153
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom91111121132148
Median Adj. F (g)90153153153153
Mean Adj. F (g)95131137143151

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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is the American Razor Blades premium super sharp high quality Japanese steel blade. It is made in India for a Netherlands company called 1 Supply B.V. It is a 95 micron blade with a platinum driven metallic coating. It is mild-moderate in sharpness with fair balance, and good durability and consistency. It is probably made by Vidyut Metallics.

The graphic design and branding are highly misleading. I filed a report with the FTC. The printed single layer wax paper wrappers are similar to Topaz, but I haven't seen another Indian blade bulk-packed like these.

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Polymer and metallic coatings are visible. The three stage grind is quite similar to Vidyut blades such as Starmaxx. The grind is done with cheaper and more uneven abrasives, so there are errant stria and uneven scratches. It doesn't seem to be detrimental to performance with this milder grind. The steel is tough and durable. In the second photo, taken after the test, we see the failure mode of some very small chipping at the apex, which is typical of high-quality razor blade steels.

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Performance is closely aligned with other moderate Indian blades with platinum coatings, especially Starmaxx and Supermax blades.

I have mixed feelings about this blade. I am not happy that a European company would import Indian blades to the US with such intentionally misleading branding and design, but blades of this quality at the current street price of $5.40/200 with a coupon on Amazon, represent one of the best values on the American market, and perhaps the very best value among blades that ship from a US retailer. If you like Indian blades, or mild blades, and you aren't turned away by the importer's dishonesty, then these are probably worth trying. The mild sharpness, fair balance, and crude grind do not represent a top-tier blade by any means, but these are impressive for a blade that costs less than three cents.

I wish they had the good judgement to present them as "Snow Leopard" or "Indian Elephant" blades with a picture of an iconic Indian wildlife species in classic posterized graphic design and transparent manufacturer, production location, and production date information printed on the package. Even better would be to specify that there is a platinum driven metallic coating and call out the specific alloy used. It surprises me that these companies make such stupid mistakes being opaque and dishonest. This blade would sell well with an honest presentation as the thing it actually is. Perhaps I should start my own marketing company and import blades myself.

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Date3-Feb-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.095
Blade1 Supply BVAmericanSS JapaneseIndia1-Jan-2024
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.1298511
Median F (g)60555255.559
Mean F (g) Top5453505256
Mean F (g) Bottom6758575864
Mean F (g)6155535560
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top7573697278
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom9381808089
Median Adj. F (g)8377727782
Mean Adj. F (g)8477747684

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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
Performance is closely aligned with other moderate Indian blades with platinum coatings, especially Starmaxx and Supermax blades.

I have mixed feelings about this blade. I am not happy that a European company would import Indian blades to the US with such intentionally misleading branding and design, but blades of this quality at the current street price of $5.40/200 with a coupon on Amazon, represent one of the best values on the American market, and perhaps the very best value among blades that ship from a US retailer. If you like Indian blades, or mild blades, and you aren't turned away by the importer's dishonesty, then these are probably worth trying. The mild sharpness, fair balance, and crude grind do not represent a top-tier blade by any means, but these are impressive for a blade that costs less than three cents.

I wish they had the good judgement to present them as "Snow Leopard" or "Indian Elephant" blades with a picture of an iconic Indian wildlife species in classic posterized graphic design and transparent manufacturer, production location, and production date information printed on the package. Even better would be to specify that there is a platinum driven metallic coating and call out the specific alloy used. It surprises me that these companies make such stupid mistakes being opaque and dishonest. This blade would sell well with an honest presentation as the thing it actually is. Perhaps I should start my own marketing company and import blades myself.

It's just a different mentality combined with a situational set of ethics when dealing with Americans. I'm an immigrant/expatriate. When I visit my old home country, family and friends always have to get me the local price, because left to their own choices, I am considered a "rich American" by the local businesses/vendors and can afford to pay more.

By the way, in for 200. LOL.
 
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