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Blade Sharpness Research Project

This is 253 microns and the shaving Gem is 233. I don't think they would need to change the belt settings if they used the same alloy. They wouldn't have to reinvent the wheel to make an injector that performs as well at shaving as the 3 facet coated stainless GEM. I think we can infer that like the carbon steel GEM blades, or the FHS-10, this blade was not designed with shaving as it's primary purpose, even though it can still get the job done.
How many microns is any other injector like a Schick?
 
Chicks are 261... so yeah, Accutec could use the GEM steel if inclined.
That would be interesting. A premium blade that's as thick as an AC, as sharp as an AccuTek, and with coatings like the German Schick.

That could overnight dramatically improve chatty razors. I wonder how blade benders and slants would fair with such a blade? Maybe we would need standard, thick and extra thick versions with catchy marketing names...
 
That would be interesting. A premium blade that's as thick as an AC, as sharp as an AccuTek, and with coatings like the German Schick.

That could overnight dramatically improve chatty razors. I wonder how blade benders and slants would fair with such a blade? Maybe we would need standard, thick and extra thick versions with catchy marketing names...
Injectors are a fantastic satety razor blade format. It is a shame there aren't a bunch of choices for modern blades and razors. A vintage razor with Chinese Schick blade is one of the only accessible good options.
 
I must ask, I don't see on this list the Gillette Light Blue Plantiums, unless I am mistaken. I looked up the index and on the graph could not find it unless its under a different name. Below is the picture of the blades I am talking about and if it is already one there please let me know. The have one made in Russia of course and now China so.

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Injectors are a fantastic satety razor blade format. It is a shame there aren't a bunch of choices for modern blades and razors. A vintage razor with Chinese Schick blade is one of the only accessible good options.
I have some vintage ones and I've got the Asylum injector. The Asylum in my opinion is the best injector format razor. It's on the top of my favorite razors list.
I also had the Mossei which was beautifully built but sold it. It was unnecessarily aggressive for an injector. The worst for me was the Supply razor. Didn't shave very good and the build quality was junk.
 
This is the Wilkinson Sword New Chromium Light Brigade BP Sample blade, which was made in England, packaged in the US, and given out at BP convenience stores in the US. The blade itself is one of the great legendary vintage DE blades, highly sought-after and widely missed. This example was probably produced around 1970, with imperial spec machinery and steel in Wilkinson's Cramlington, Northumberland facility. It is moderately sharp, with excellent balance, durability, and consistency.

The hanger card has a picture of the battle of Waterloo, and on the back, there is an offer to get prints of this artwork. I would love to get my hands on one of those!

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It is a modern three stage grind with a metallic and PTFE coating. This is a revolutionary design that influenced many of the best blades in the coming decades, and continues to influence the best blades today, especially those with a history of sharing with Wilkinson, such as AccuTec, and Edgewell. There are a couple errant stria from the secondary grind into the tertiary bevel; they were not using abrasives of the same quality we sometimes see today; we will let that slide this time.

In the second photo, taken after the test, we see a small amount of small chipping, and the PTFE coating is gone, but the steel is in excellent condition. Before this individual blade goes into my blade library, it is going to spend some time in an English Gillette Aristocrat. This will be the second time, in 300 tests, that I shave with an individual blade after testing its durability. The other one was also a vintage English Wilkinson Sword.

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Performance is closest to the export English Wilkinson that @Space_Cadet got from his grandfather in Israel and sent to me. I have one of those going right now in my shaving routine, so I will get to compare them. As you can see, the heritage of durability and consistency in the Wilkinson designs is alive and well, into the 2020s. Seeing the performance of this blade puts a big smile on my face. It absolutely deserves a reputation as one of the most important designs in the history of disposable razor blades. At the price I paid for these ones, I won't be running out to buy more, and you probably shouldn't get them either, but if you see them at the flea market, grab them!

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Date21-Jan-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.103
BladeWilkinson SwordWilkinson SwordNew Chromium LBEngland1-Jan-1970
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.73465
Median F (g)51494748.547
Mean F (g) Top4746474748
Mean F (g) Bottom5649475146
Mean F (g)5148474947
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top6565666666
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom7868657164
Median Adj. F (g)7167656765
Mean Adj. F (g)7266666965

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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is the Wilkinson Sword New Chromium Light Brigade BP Sample blade, which was made in England, packaged in the US, and given out at BP convenience stores in the US. The blade itself is one of the great legendary vintage DE blades, highly sought-after and widely missed. This example was probably produced around 1970, with imperial spec machinery and steel in Wilkinson's Cramlington, Northumberland facility. It is moderately sharp, with excellent balance, durability, and consistency.

The hanger card has a picture of the battle of Waterloo, and on the back, there is an offer to get prints of this artwork. I would love to get my hands on one of those!

View attachment 1981160
View attachment 1981161 View attachment 1981162 View attachment 1981163 View attachment 1981164

It is a modern three stage grind with a metallic and PTFE coating. This is a revolutionary design that influenced many of the best blades in the coming decades, and continues to influence the best blades today, especially those with a history of sharing with Wilkinson, such as AccuTec, and Edgewell. There are a couple errant stria from the secondary grind into the tertiary bevel; they were not using abrasives of the same quality we sometimes see today; we will let that slide this time.

In the second photo, taken after the test, we see a small amount of small chipping, and the PTFE coating is gone, but the steel is in excellent condition. Before this individual blade goes into my blade library, it is going to spend some time in an English Gillette Aristocrat. This will be the second time, in 300 tests, that I shave with an individual blade after testing its durability. The other one was also a vintage English Wilkinson Sword.

View attachment 1981165 View attachment 1981166

Performance is closest to the export English Wilkinson that @Space_Cadet got from his grandfather in Israel and sent to me. I have one of those going right now in my shaving routine, so I will get to compare them. As you can see, the heritage of durability and consistency in the Wilkinson designs is alive and well, into the 2020s. Seeing the performance of this blade puts a big smile on my face. It absolutely deserves a reputation as one of the most important designs in the history of disposable razor blades. At the price I paid for these ones, I won't be running out to buy more, and you probably shouldn't get them either, but if you see them at the flea market, grab them!

View attachment 1981184

Date21-Jan-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.103
BladeWilkinson SwordWilkinson SwordNew Chromium LBEngland1-Jan-1970
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.73465
Median F (g)51494748.547
Mean F (g) Top4746474748
Mean F (g) Bottom5649475146
Mean F (g)5148474947
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top6565666666
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom7868657164
Median Adj. F (g)7167656765
Mean Adj. F (g)7266666965

View attachment 1981181 View attachment 1981183

Blade Sharpness Test Index
Did you only buy one pack (the one that you tested)?
If so, you're the best for testing these because if it was me, I'd keep those sealed forever!
 
I must ask, I don't see on this list the Gillette Light Blue Plantiums, unless I am mistaken. I looked up the index and on the graph could not find it unless its under a different name. Below is the picture of the blades I am talking about and if it is already one there please let me know. The have one made in Russia of course and now China so.

View attachment 1979949
 
This is the Dorco Super Barber Artist Club style blade, which is made in their facility in Vietnam. It has a durable and impactful coating, fair durability, very mild sharpness, and poor consistency, for shaving. Performance is aligned with hair shaper blades, so I suspect its intended use is cutting head hair to length with a single use.

The traditional grind might also suit some shavette shavers who are looking for something sort of like a straight razor, though the impactful metallic coating doesn't really go with that concept. It is not a blade I would put in an AC safety razor, but someone probably likes to use it that way. It is the mildest AC blade tested by a good margin, so it is going to work well that way for someone, I am sure.

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It is a thick and mild traditional grind, and does resemble hair shapers in this regard. If you have an AC shavette you like, and want an experience resembling a hair shaper blade, this is the one to go for. In the second picture, taken after the test, we see the failure mode of the steel was lots of medium chipping, even as some of that metallic coating persists. Alloy selection must have prioritized low cost over durability and consistency.

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Performance is very similar to Feather Platinum and Jiefcnel hair shaper blades. I really like my Weck hair shapers and Feather AC shavettes, but I suppose it might be nice to get a hair shaper blade experience with the AC shavettes if I want to. It will be a lot less expensive to get a Weck, Feather, or Chinese hair shaper razor with blades than to get a Feather shavette, though, so it isn't the starting place I would recommend. I suppose if you are a barber doing hair shaping and want to use your Feather AC shavette, this Dorco is a blade option.

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Date22-Jan-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.260
BladeDorcoAC Super BladesBarber BladesVietnam1-Jan-2024
Wear on Edge00366
Edges MeasuredBottom / BottomBottom / BottomBottom / BottomBottom / BottomBottom / Bottom
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewNewPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.1214313232
Median F (g)878784.56572
Mean F (g) Top9195755154
Mean F (g) Bottom8383858791
Mean F (g)8789806973
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top1271321047176
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom116116118120127
Median Adj. F (g)12112011890100
Mean Adj. F (g)12112411196101

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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is the Kismet Stainless Polymer hair shaper blade. Kismet is an old Dutch brand, and these blades are made by Feather Technica GmbH in Solingen, Germany. Along with Kismet blades, Feather Technica produces specialized medical, industrial, and scientific blades for European markets. They do not produce Feather-branded consumer, barber, or salon blades there. I would describe the sharpness of this blade as mild, compared to the extra-mild traditional grinds of the Feather-branded hair shapers, and most hair shapers in general. Durability was poor, but it is probably fine for its intended purpose of single use head hair cutting. It is probably good for several shaves in a shavette as well. It has a thicker spine than some of the Asian hair shapers, so it should fit tightly in unmodified vintage Weck shavettes, among others.

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It has a traditional two-stage grind, which we see in other blades of this type. In the second photo, taken after the test, you can see the dramatic failure of the steel with lots of large chipping and denting.

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I made a copy/paste error for some of the formulas for the charts in the tests of the Dorco AC blade and the Ted Pella Injector blade, which have been corrected for the charts in this test. It doesn't change the rankings much, so I am not going to link those tests to a correction, I am just disclosing the correction here. The data itself is unchanged; only the presentation has been corrected.

The Kismet blade does not resemble other designs in performance. It is sharper and less durable than the Feather hair shapers. It is probably made to a different specification, and it wouldn't surprise me if it is an old Kismet design, or if it is based on some suitable Feather Technica industrial, scientific, or medical design we haven't been able to test.

Just looking at the data, I would guess this blade provides nice comfortable and efficient shaves in a Weck type shavette. Hopefully I get around to trying it at some point.

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Date22-Jan-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.152
BladeFeatherKismet Hair ShaperStainless PolymerGermany1-Jan-2024
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottomBottomBottomBottomBottom
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements1515151515
Adj. Std. Dev.1415252412
Median F (g)616077102110
Mean F (g)63608095107
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Median Adj. F (g)8583107142153
Mean Adj. F (g)8784111132148

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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is the Facón Premium Platinum Japanese Stainless Steel blade. It is a private label blade for a Texas company sold on Amazon, and manufactured by Shanghai Cloud. It is standard 100 micron steel, mild in sharpness, well balanced, with a durable and impactful coating the performance of which suggests advanced ceramics or heavy platinum.

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The grind looks mild, but smooth, with small stria and even transitions. It has a heavy coating you can see in the first picture before the test. The edge is durable and we see in the second picture after the test, the edge remains in excellent condition with some very small chipping.

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After the coating is worn off, performance is similar to the red Cloud SS I measured previously. It is probably the same blade, except for the coating. Coating performance resembles the much sharper Bruce Lee. It is hard to say what is going on with the sharpness of Cloud blades, but it looks plausible there is your typical coated vs uncoated option, and at least two grind specifications; sharp and mild. I don't know why Facón would order the mild one for the US market if that's what they did. Of course, it could just be a really wide window of acceptable tolerances to keep costs down.

These are $6/50, while the OEM branded Cloud SS blades are $6/100. Of course no one should buy this one when they can get Cloud branded ones for half the price. But really, if you want Cloud blades, get the sharper Cloud Bruce Lee with its amazing artwork for $13/100. It is hard to make a serious case for Cloud when you can get Xirui blades for $20/1000 right now.

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Date23-Jan-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.100
BladeShanghai CloudFacónPlatinum JapaneseChina1-Jan-2024
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.1165610
Median F (g)74.56361.56269
Mean F (g) Top7861596070
Mean F (g) Bottom7164646565
Mean F (g)7562616267
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top10884828397
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom9989889191
Median Adj. F (g)10488868696
Mean Adj. F (g)10487858794


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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
First of all, thank you for this wonderful thread. It's the one I've spent the most time on in the past week, reading and re-reading every single post and extracting data to add and compare in my humble database. To say I spent hours on it is an understatement.

However, if you have the time, please take another look at Sotraco's Silver Stars for the sake of science!
I would also like you to test the Russian made Gillette 7 O'Clock Stainless Steel (greens). It's the only one missing among the most famous blades.

Thanks again and congratulations on this immense and invaluable work!
 
This is Procter and Gamble's Gillette 7 O'Clock Super Stainless green blade from their Petersburg Products International facility in Russia. It was generously provided for testing by @WVShaver It is a thin and mild blade without a metallic coating, with fair balance, durability and consistency.

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Judging by the total bevel height, it looks like a thick edge, even for a 90-micron spec blade. It is a two stage grind, which partially explains why it isn't more durable, and also why some people find it to be a comfortable edge. They used fine and even abrasives of good quality. In the second picture, taken after the test, you can see that the failure mode of the steel is medium chipping, typical of thin edges. It reminds me of Baddi, India Gillette designs.

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It is the mildest Gillette blade tested. Performance is fairly similar to the Indian Astra SS and the mild grind Shanghai Gillette blades. The design of the Indian blade is likely influenced by PPI designs. The Indian Gillette 7 O'Clock Permasharp green blade is also the same basic idea; a thin and mild blade without a coating that isn't very durable.

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Date24-Jan-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.091
BladeProcter & GambleGillette 7 O'ClockSuper Stainless GSaint Petersburg11-Feb-2018
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.1310101515
Median F (g)5872788489.5
Mean F (g) Top6676808988
Mean F (g) Bottom5772768691
Mean F (g)6174788790
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top91105112124123
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom79100105120126
Median Adj. F (g)81100108117124
Mean Adj. F (g)85103108122124

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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is the by amazon sharp finish men's comfort coated blade. It is made by Edgewell in their Solingen, Germany Wilkinson Sword facility, and marketed in Europe by Amazon. I got them from Amazon UK for £4.63, so they're a budget blade.

It is a standard thickness blade, measuring 101 microns. I believe German Edgewell blades may be made with imperial spec 0.004" thickness to this day. My guess, if this is so, is that there is enough performance difference that they didn't want to give it up, especially on the flagship Wilkinson Sword Classic design. According to ChatGPT, I am not the first one to measure thicknesses and suggest imperial specs for Solingen Edgewell blades.

This blade is quite mild in sharpness, with a significant metallic coating impact that appears to be platinum driven, good balance, and good durability. the packaging offers exceptionally good protection, with wax, plastic tucks, and a big double box.

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There are errant stria in the grind, and uneven transitions. The steel held up pretty well, but that probably has to do with the thick angle at the apex.

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It seems likely that this specification represents a low-cost, low-performance standard designed specifically for private-label or budget-oriented products. It is functional, but lacks refinement, with good durability. I bet it was made to the same specification as the CVS Daylogic blade. I suppose that if you are on a tight budget with limited options in Europe, this is a blade that can get the job done, but there are probably better options. The German Personna Platinum and Wilkinson Sword from the same facility are both better than this.

I did confirm the results of this test using BESS media for a few cuts, because they didn't align with my initial expectation of a Personna Platinum spec blade.

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Date24-Jan-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.101
BladeEdgewellBy AmazonBy AmazonSolingen29-Aug-2024
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.86547
Median F (g)6454545358
Mean F (g) Top6153545457
Mean F (g) Bottom6855565460
Mean F (g)6454555458
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top8474757480
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom9577777683
Median Adj. F (g)8975757481
Mean Adj. F (g)9075767581


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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
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Wow! Sharpness-wise, the Solimo appears a country mile away from the substantially sharper Muhle Stainless (also a private label from Edgewell, yes?) and Wilkinson Sword.

Few weeks back, I ran a Wilkie (2024) as the control blade against the Muhle, this Solimo and one from British Supermarket Sainsbury which I believe is the same blade. On my face, I could tell the difference - the Wilkie was absolutely standout and the Muhle VERY close indeed. The one from Sainsbury actually felt so close to the Personna Platinum Chrome that I brought one of those in (from a 2022 pillar) to compare and across three full back-to-backs with this collection of blades, certainly I thought the Sainsbury to be more related to the Personna Platinum Chrome ... the Solimo was VERY close, but to my mind again more related to the Personna Platinum Chrome (I note that you also think the edge is platinum) than the Wilkinson Sword. The Muhle Stainless is, I think, clearly the Wilkinson Sword specification. Maybe the Wilkinson Sword and the Personna Platinum Chrome are closer to each other than we first thought?

Thank you for the test on this Solimo @helicopter ... I bought in a 100 pack for under £5 delivered, but since I have a 200 pillar and more of the Personna Platinum Chrome (and a good stash of the older Israeli in both Euro plastic tucks and USA red sleeves) I think I'm good. For the considerably lower price, I'd say the Solimo is a bargain and you're getting a blade that in real terms on the face performs close to the German Personna. Across three blades, the Sainsbury performed MUCH closer ... so perhaps there is some room to say there are different specifications within these private label blades.

Here's the Muhle, Solimom & Sainsbury all together - note the four wax dots.

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Here's the Sainsbury retail pack (different carddboard sleeve to the blank razor seen on Solimo):

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... also available at another supermarket Tesco:

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... and Boots:

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... and just because, some Euro packed Personna:

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