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Blade Sharpness Research Project

Space_Cadet

I don't have a funny description.
@helicopter

Look what I've found:

Diplomat.jpg
 
This is Sotraco's Lord Super Stainless patriot blade in a 5 blade tuck. It is a standard thickness blade, mild in sharpness, with good balance, and fair durability and consistency. Performance suggests a platinum driven metallic coating despite nomenclature that would conventionally indicate an absence of metallic coating.

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It is a three stage grind with some large stria from using crude abrasives. The coating is sloppy. In the second photo, taken after the test, we see that the failure mode of the steel is lots of large chipping and some denting typical of Sotraco and inexpensive low-quality blade steel in general.

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Performance doesn't closely align with other Sotraco blades tested so far. My guess is that this example, with its good balance, is close to the nominal specification, which seems to take some luck with Sotraco. The street price of this blade is around $8/100. At that price, the performance is completely uncompetitive. You can get vastly superior Chinese blades for half of the price.

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Date5-Jan-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.100
BladeSotracoLordSuper Stainless P5Egypt13-Nov-2021
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.168262625
Median F (g)565156.55874
Mean F (g) Top5451687079
Mean F (g) Bottom6252585872
Mean F (g)5852636476
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top75719497110
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom86738180100
Median Adj. F (g)78707981103
Mean Adj. F (g)81728789105

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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
I can think of possible reasons your Treet Classic tuggs less than your Voskhod on the second pass. Batch variation is one possibility. Treet has a fairly clean grind categorization, so I doubt you got sharp Treet Classics, but you may have gotten dull or damaged Voskhods. It could be your beard, if it is exceptionally hard on blades, is damaging the Voskhod in the first pass. It could be the coatings are behaving differently with your face and software. The thicker and tougher edge of the Treet blade may just behave better, being less flexible at the apex. I wonder if you would have a different impression using a razor with less gap and exposure. I don't think your experience with these two blades is typical, but I don't find it too surprising either. There are a lot of factors that affect sharpness of two individual blades, and there are several factors other than sharpness that might be effecting how the blades feel when you shave with them.
Those seem all viable. In my quest to find good blades, I am just trying to figure out how I can use the information that you are gathering for a possible benefit for me. Perhaps it could also benefit others.

You mentioned that the Treets have a "clean grind categorization" and a "thicker and tougher edge" - What does that exactly mean, how are you determining those things? Is there a way to find blades with similar "grind" characteristics and similar "edge profiles"? Even if its just a subjective characterization, it may be helpful?

Maybe I missed it but would you be willing to make some of the data people would use to sort blades available in a read-only google sheet so we can sort in some way. For those that only use a blade once, it would be also interesting to see what the ranking would be of sharpness as new. If the blade doesn't get past the first shave, I'm not keeping it for the second or third.

No worries either way as I am sure is a lot of work.
 
Some more anecdotal info. I also have in my notes that Astra Blues and Wizamets felt tuggy to me as well but they rank well on the scale and sharper than Treet Classics.

Interestingly also, is that a lot of people claim Feather AC blades are the sharpest blades (or some of the sharpest) out there but none of them passed a hanging hair test for me. They also felt dull to me every time I have used them. They rank dull on your ranking despite convectional "wisdom" - which is great to see. So some of my experiences mirror your testing.

Who would have thought edge sharpness could be so complex?
 
Those seem all viable. In my quest to find good blades, I am just trying to figure out how I can use the information that you are gathering for a possible benefit for me. Perhaps it could also benefit others.

You mentioned that the Treets have a "clean grind categorization" and a "thicker and tougher edge" - What does that exactly mean, how are you determining those things? Is there a way to find blades with similar "grind" characteristics and similar "edge profiles"? Even if its just a subjective characterization, it may be helpful?

Maybe I missed it but would you be willing to make some of the data people would use to sort blades available in a read-only google sheet so we can sort in some way. For those that only use a blade once, it would be also interesting to see what the ranking would be of sharpness as new. If the blade doesn't get past the first shave, I'm not keeping it for the second or third.

No worries either way as I am sure is a lot of work.
The cutting force wear curves of Treet blades tested fall into clean buckets making a stair-step chart, because their processes are well controlled. It follows that a typical Treet blade will perform close to the nominal specification, and it makes it easy to identify which grind specification they used for the model.

They don't have any grinds that are very sharp, because all of their specifications are for bigger angles at the apex.

Since grinds are done in stages at different angles, and my scalable images all show the side of a flat blade, I can't calculate the angles, but I can get a general idea by looking at thicknesses and bevel heights.

Voskhod is definitely more acute at the apex than any of the Treet blades, which should translate to more bending and flexing, and less plowing straight through.

Such publicly available Google Sheets do exist, but it is against forum rules to put the links here or mention the place where the links are published.

There is a zip file with an excel sheet higher up the thread that @BigAlVista updates and posts.

If you want to find blades similar to the ones you like, one strategy is to expand the big chart at the end of the most recent test, look at the blade you liked, and see if there are blades nearby with similar curve shapes. You could look up the tests in the index link there, and see if the test indicates a blade you might want to try.
 
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Some more anecdotal info. I also have in my notes that Astra Blues and Wizamets felt tuggy to me as well but they rank well on the scale and sharper than Treet Classics.

Interestingly also, is that a lot of people claim Feather AC blades are the sharpest blades (or some of the sharpest) out there but none of them passed a hanging hair test for me. They also felt dull to me every time I have used them. They rank dull on your ranking despite convectional "wisdom" - which is great to see. So some of my experiences mirror your testing.

Who would have thought edge sharpness could be so complex?
You could look at standard deviation in the test summary chart. That shows how much the sharpness varies from location to the next. If it varies a lot, then there will be some spots that are below the average sharpness. Those duller spots will certainly tug first, especially if they represent big chips or dents.

Eventually I plan to quantity smoothness using something like this, though it will be more sophisticated than just standard deviation. AI, which is very good at solving problems like putting a number on smoothness or tugginess, tells me I will probably want to use different formulas for each stage of the test, and that seems like a good way to do it.

I think there is probably a better way to express the centrality of the sharpness than averages, too, but averages are good enough for now, while I am focused on testing, and averages are easy to understand.

I still have more blades to test before I get into that, though. The plan is to test more, then clean up data table into something AI can manipulate very effectively, and then come up with some more analysis techniques. A lot of what is not reflected in the charts of averages has still been measured and is there in the data.
 
The cutting force wear curves of Treet blades tested fall into clean buckets making a stair-step chart, because their processes are well controlled. It follows that a typical Treet blade will perform close to the nominal specification, and it makes it easy to identify which grind specification they used for the model.

They don't have any grinds that are very sharp, because all of their specifications are for bigger angles at the apex.

Since grinds are done in stages at different angles, and my scalable images all show the side of a flat blade, I can't calculate the angles, but I can get a general idea by looking at thicknesses and bevel heights.

Voskhod is definitely more acute at the apex than any of the Treet blades, which should translate to more bending and flexing, and less plowing straight through.


Such publicity available Google Sheets do exist, but it is against forum rules to put the links here or mention the place where the links are published.

There is a zip file with an excel sheet higher up the thread that @BigAlVista updates and posts.

If you want to find blades similar to the ones you like, one strategy is to expand the big chart at the end of the most recent test, look at the blade you liked, and see if there are blades nearby with similar curve shapes. You could look up the tests in the index link there, and see if the test indicates a blade you might want to try.
To the content in bold - This is becoming more interesting. In my shave notes, I use a word like "pop" where the sensation is the blade just plowing straight through as you say and popping off hair effortlessly. It's the same sensation I get when I use a heavy grind straight razor which has considerably less flex than something hollow ground. It's the best feeling and something I have been chasing. I always thought it had to do with sharpness for DE blades because they are all so thin compared to the body/edge of a straight razor. But maybe these small nuances in bevel angle, even in a really thin and flexy DE blade can give you that clean cutting "pop" feeling.

I will have to look at your pictures to see what I can discern. Like you said, the pictures are of a flat blade so I am not exactly sure what I am looking for but I'll try to give it a go this week. Thanks again for the other info as well.
 
Interestingly also, is that a lot of people claim Feather AC blades are the sharpest blades (or some of the sharpest) out there but none of them passed a hanging hair test for me. They also felt dull to me every time I have used them. They rank dull on your ranking despite convectional "wisdom" - which is great to see. So some of my experiences mirror your testing.
I also haven't felt them to be that sharp. To me the sharpest AC blades are the Schick Prolines.
At least that's how they feel anyways!
 
I used a different Diplomat last week. I suspect these were made in the Personna plant in Israel, but I don't have any proof of that beyond the wrappers being the same as other blades I have from that plant.

View attachment 1972140
That's the one I just tested. It is definitely a Nazareth blade. Not just the wrapper. It has the Star of David on it. Is the tuck like mine, or is it the one that says the packaging is made in England?
 
This is Sotraco's Lord Platinum primary from a 5 blade tuck. It is moderate in sharpness with fair balance, durability and consistency. I believe this example is a reasonably good representation of the specification.

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The scratches are not coarse, but they are uneven. There is a visible metallic coating. In the second picture we see that the failure mode of the steel was some medium chipping.

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Performance is pretty close to the other Lord Platinum that is not labeled as "new" on the tuck, so I think they are probably both made to the same specification and both good examples of that specification.

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Date6-Jan-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.090
BladeSotracoLordPlatinum Primary 5Egypt1-Mar-2021
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.1311163023
Median F (g)484748.555.557
Mean F (g) Top4454505959
Mean F (g) Bottom5545527466
Mean F (g)4950516762
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top6175698282
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom76637210391
Median Adj. F (g)6765677779
Mean Adj. F (g)6969719387

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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is Sotraco's Lord Platinum in a red tuck of six blades packaged for the Malay Archipelago markets, and I believe it is made to the same specification as the primary color tuck version measured in the previous test.

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The grind looks the same as the other one, but this one held up better to testing, with a failure mode of small chipping and denting.

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I couldn't get a 90 micron measurement on this individual, but I suspect it is made from 90 micron stock like the other one, but warped.

Date6-Jan-2025

Blade Thickness, mm0.093
BladeSotracoLordPlatinum Red 6Egypt1-Jan-2024
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21Stren 4 .21
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.7982417
Median F (g)54.5495048.551
Mean F (g) Top5149546260
Mean F (g) Bottom5650494148
Mean F (g)5450515154
BESS Adj. Factor1.391.391.391.391.39
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top7169758684
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom7870675767
Median Adj. F (g)7667706771
Mean Adj. F (g)7569717176

This blade is included in the charts for the prior test above, so I won't post them again here.

Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
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