They should feature the phrase "Shaving Sauce: For Shaving" more prominently and on more products.
Blade Sharpness Research Project
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- #902
This is the new Vietnamese market Gillette Super Thin Platinum from Shanghai Gillette. I measured another one of these previously, but this one is slightly newer, and it has updated packaging. While very similar in construction and overall sharpness, this one has a steep J-curve from the platinum and most closely resembles the current Chinese King C Gillette. I suspect the coating is improved, increasing sharpness, durability and consistency. I also suspect that this new one is made to the same specification as the King C Gillette blade. The blade is quite sharp, smoothly ground, has fairly good consistency and durability for a thin 90 micron blade.
It is a very nice looking grind, with small even scratches and even transitions. The metallic coating has an even edge, and the polymer coating is thick and even.
The failure mode is lots of medium chipping, which is typical for thin blades of good quality.
Performance is essentially the same as the KCG, and I am fairly confident the two are made to the same specification for different markets.
The Shanghai King C Gillette is my favorite Chinese blade, and this new Vietnam market Gillette Super Thin Platinum seems to be made to the same specification. If you like the way performance looks on these, I recommend getting whichever one is distributed in your home market. The King C Gillette has excellent all-paper packaging with good protection from corrugated cardboard and void spaces, so it is likely to arrive in better condition if you are in the West.
Blade Sharpness Test Index
It is a very nice looking grind, with small even scratches and even transitions. The metallic coating has an even edge, and the polymer coating is thick and even.
The failure mode is lots of medium chipping, which is typical for thin blades of good quality.
Performance is essentially the same as the KCG, and I am fairly confident the two are made to the same specification for different markets.
| Date | 6-Nov-2024 | Blade Thickness, mm | 0.090 | ||
| Blade | Procter & Gamble | Gillette Vietnam | Super Thin Pt | China | 15-Dec-2020 |
| Wear on Edge | 0 | 3 | 6 | 9 | 12 |
| Edges Measured | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top |
| Measurement Medium | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 |
| Dulling Substrate | New | Paper | Paper | Paper | Paper |
| Measurements | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 |
| Adj. Std. Dev. | 10 | 4 | 5 | 13 | 22 |
| Median F (g) | 48.5 | 45 | 48.5 | 52 | 54.5 |
| Mean F (g) Top | 47 | 46 | 50 | 54 | 59 |
| Mean F (g) Bottom | 55 | 44 | 47 | 57 | 62 |
| Mean F (g) | 51 | 45 | 48 | 56 | 61 |
| BESS Adj. Factor | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 |
| Avg. Adj. F (g) Top | 57 | 57 | 60 | 66 | 72 |
| Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom | 67 | 53 | 58 | 70 | 76 |
| Median Adj. F (g) | 59 | 55 | 59 | 63 | 67 |
| Mean Adj. F (g) | 62 | 55 | 59 | 68 | 74 |
The Shanghai King C Gillette is my favorite Chinese blade, and this new Vietnam market Gillette Super Thin Platinum seems to be made to the same specification. If you like the way performance looks on these, I recommend getting whichever one is distributed in your home market. The King C Gillette has excellent all-paper packaging with good protection from corrugated cardboard and void spaces, so it is likely to arrive in better condition if you are in the West.
Blade Sharpness Test Index
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- #903
I dipped these three Treet blades, stainless control Trim, white carbon steel control Tez, and unknown experimental New Treet in my water containing the juice of a lime.
I made sure they were all wet and let them sit for a few hours.
The New Treet rusted before the Tez. My New Treet is white carbon steel.
I emailed TRC again, but I doubt they care. They never responded to my previous emails about the PolSilver Extra Stainless and the Kyone.
I made sure they were all wet and let them sit for a few hours.
The New Treet rusted before the Tez. My New Treet is white carbon steel.
I emailed TRC again, but I doubt they care. They never responded to my previous emails about the PolSilver Extra Stainless and the Kyone.
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- #904
This is the Durablade Sharp 7AM Super Platinum from Samah of Bangladesh. It is very similar to their Clifton blade in performance. It is a thin and dull blade with weak steel that quickly dulls further.
It has a crude grind and sloppy coatings.
The failure mode of the steel is lots of large denting. Maybe the thin, soft, dull steel will feel smooth to some people for the short life of this blade.
Performance is similar enough to Clifton that I don't think either one is defective. I think they made them this way on purpose.
It is dull, with poor durability and consistency. I certainly don't like to shave with blades like this, but it isn't defective and I am sure someone out there will like its thick, soft, thin edge.
Blade Sharpness Test Index
It has a crude grind and sloppy coatings.
The failure mode of the steel is lots of large denting. Maybe the thin, soft, dull steel will feel smooth to some people for the short life of this blade.
Performance is similar enough to Clifton that I don't think either one is defective. I think they made them this way on purpose.
| Date | 6-Nov-2024 | Blade Thickness, mm | 0.090 | ||
| Blade | Samah | Durablade | Sharp 7AM SP | Bangladesh | 1-Jan-2024 |
| Wear on Edge | 0 | 3 | 6 | 9 | 12 |
| Edges Measured | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top |
| Measurement Medium | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 |
| Dulling Substrate | New | Paper | Paper | Paper | Paper |
| Measurements | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 |
| Adj. Std. Dev. | 30 | 35 | 37 | 21 | 18 |
| Median F (g) | 60 | 67 | 97.5 | 125 | 125 |
| Mean F (g) Top | 78 | 88 | 115 | 125 | 125 |
| Mean F (g) Bottom | 62 | 66 | 76 | 110 | 112 |
| Mean F (g) | 70 | 77 | 95 | 118 | 118 |
| BESS Adj. Factor | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 |
| Avg. Adj. F (g) Top | 95 | 108 | 140 | 153 | 153 |
| Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom | 76 | 81 | 93 | 134 | 137 |
| Median Adj. F (g) | 73 | 81 | 119 | 153 | 153 |
| Mean Adj. F (g) | 85 | 94 | 116 | 143 | 145 |
It is dull, with poor durability and consistency. I certainly don't like to shave with blades like this, but it isn't defective and I am sure someone out there will like its thick, soft, thin edge.
Blade Sharpness Test Index
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- #905
I did get a response from TRC on this one. They said they will reach out to the distributor about it, because the distributor has it listed as stainless.
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Interesting review & testing on this one!
I had some of those early ones that I purchased as a sample from Razor Blades Club and it's one of the worst blades I've ever used!
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- #907
This is Derby's Zaza New Super Superior Stainless Gold Safety blade. The paper looks classic, and the shrink wrap is different from current blades, so I am going to assume it was produced before Derby re-tooled in 2016. Razor Blades Club still has it. It has an unusual grind and very poor performance consistent with its bad reputation.
The graphic design is old fashioned. It looks like something related to a carnival fortune teller.
What is interesting here is that despite being a very dull blade, and a blade of normal 100 micron thickness, the bevel is very tall. The primary bevel must be quite thin before the thick edge. I am not sure why they would design it this way as it makes for a blade that is fragile and dull.
The failure mode of the steel is lots of large denting.
It is really a bad blade. I am not sure why anyone ever would have produced it like this.
Blade Sharpness Test Index
The graphic design is old fashioned. It looks like something related to a carnival fortune teller.
What is interesting here is that despite being a very dull blade, and a blade of normal 100 micron thickness, the bevel is very tall. The primary bevel must be quite thin before the thick edge. I am not sure why they would design it this way as it makes for a blade that is fragile and dull.
The failure mode of the steel is lots of large denting.
It is really a bad blade. I am not sure why anyone ever would have produced it like this.
| Date | 7-May-2024 | Blade Thickness, mm | 0.100 | ||
| Blade | Derby | Zaza | New SS Gold | Türkiye | 1-Jan-2015 |
| Wear on Edge | 0 | 3 | 6 | 9 | 12 |
| Edges Measured | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top |
| Measurement Medium | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 |
| Dulling Substrate | New | Paper | Paper | Paper | Paper |
| Measurements | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 |
| Adj. Std. Dev. | 36 | 3 | 0 | 0 | 0 |
| Median F (g) | 98 | 125 | 125 | 125 | 125 |
| Mean F (g) Top | 92 | 124 | 125 | 125 | 125 |
| Mean F (g) Bottom | 99 | 125 | 125 | 125 | 125 |
| Mean F (g) | 95 | 125 | 125 | 125 | 125 |
| BESS Adj. Factor | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 |
| Avg. Adj. F (g) Top | 112 | 151 | 153 | 153 | 153 |
| Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom | 121 | 153 | 153 | 153 | 153 |
| Median Adj. F (g) | 120 | 153 | 153 | 153 | 153 |
| Mean Adj. F (g) | 116 | 152 | 153 | 153 | 153 |
Blade Sharpness Test Index
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- #908
This is Derby's Zaza Platinum Super Stainless blade. It is similar to most of the other Derby blades, smooth near the edge, and moderate to mild in sharpness, with middling durability and consistency.
It has a date code, which I like to see.
The primary grind looks a bit crude, but it looks smooth near the apex.
The failure mode is medium chipping and denting.
Considering the variance in sharpness from the top to bottom edge, I think it is probably the same specification as the other 100 micron blades flanking it on the chart, and the differences we see are just variation in batches. I think there is a standard steel, and a premium Sandvik steel, and then there are 90 and 100 micron blades, all with the same grind and coating, plus whatever the Zaza Gold is.
Blade Sharpness Test Index
It has a date code, which I like to see.
The primary grind looks a bit crude, but it looks smooth near the apex.
The failure mode is medium chipping and denting.
Considering the variance in sharpness from the top to bottom edge, I think it is probably the same specification as the other 100 micron blades flanking it on the chart, and the differences we see are just variation in batches. I think there is a standard steel, and a premium Sandvik steel, and then there are 90 and 100 micron blades, all with the same grind and coating, plus whatever the Zaza Gold is.
| Date | 7-May-2024 | Blade Thickness, mm | 0.101 | ||
| Blade | Derby | Zaza | Platinum SS | Türkiye | 4-Mar-2018 |
| Wear on Edge | 0 | 3 | 6 | 9 | 12 |
| Edges Measured | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top |
| Measurement Medium | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 |
| Dulling Substrate | New | Paper | Paper | Paper | Paper |
| Measurements | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 |
| Adj. Std. Dev. | 9 | 10 | 18 | 35 | 34 |
| Median F (g) | 60.5 | 55 | 63 | 60 | 68 |
| Mean F (g) Top | 58 | 54 | 65 | 75 | 91 |
| Mean F (g) Bottom | 63 | 58 | 68 | 79 | 77 |
| Mean F (g) | 61 | 56 | 66 | 77 | 84 |
| BESS Adj. Factor | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 |
| Avg. Adj. F (g) Top | 71 | 66 | 79 | 91 | 112 |
| Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom | 77 | 71 | 83 | 96 | 93 |
| Median Adj. F (g) | 74 | 67 | 77 | 73 | 83 |
| Mean Adj. F (g) | 74 | 68 | 81 | 93 | 102 |
Blade Sharpness Test Index
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- #909
This is the Vi-John Super Platinum With Cryo Tech. It is made in India. It is moderate in sharpness with good initial consistency, and typical durability. There is a significant variance in sharpness between the two edges of mine, so you might need some luck to get one with two good edges you like on it.
The scratches are uneven in size, and the metallic coating is thick and even.
The failure mode of the steel is typical small chipping.
There is a significant variance in sharpness between the two edges, so you might get one with two moderate edges, and you might get one with two dull edges. The processes are not under control.
Performance of the top edge shows you might get a good one. Performance of the bottom edge shows you might get a bad one.
Blade Sharpness Test Index
The scratches are uneven in size, and the metallic coating is thick and even.
The failure mode of the steel is typical small chipping.
There is a significant variance in sharpness between the two edges, so you might get one with two moderate edges, and you might get one with two dull edges. The processes are not under control.
| Date | 7-May-2024 | Blade Thickness, mm | 0.100 | ||
| Blade | Vi-John | Vi-John | Super Platinum | India | 1-Jan-2024 |
| Wear on Edge | 0 | 3 | 6 | 9 | 12 |
| Edges Measured | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top | Bottom / Top |
| Measurement Medium | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 | Stren 6 .22 |
| Dulling Substrate | New | Paper | Paper | Paper | Paper |
| Measurements | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 |
| Adj. Std. Dev. | 15 | 13 | 24 | 28 | 33 |
| Median F (g) | 60 | 64 | 65.5 | 69.5 | 71 |
| Mean F (g) Top | 50 | 53 | 53 | 60 | 57 |
| Mean F (g) Bottom | 73 | 70 | 80 | 93 | 103 |
| Mean F (g) | 61 | 62 | 66 | 77 | 80 |
| BESS Adj. Factor | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 | 1.22 |
| Avg. Adj. F (g) Top | 61 | 65 | 64 | 73 | 70 |
| Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom | 89 | 86 | 97 | 114 | 126 |
| Median Adj. F (g) | 73 | 78 | 80 | 85 | 87 |
| Mean Adj. F (g) | 75 | 75 | 81 | 93 | 98 |
Performance of the top edge shows you might get a good one. Performance of the bottom edge shows you might get a bad one.
Blade Sharpness Test Index
The ZAZA Platinum falls exactly where I thought it would, very much akin to the Platinum blades from Lord to my face, particularly the RACER branding.
The ZAZA Stainless is puzzling!
I think you're right in that this is old stock, so perhaps I got new stock but mine look very much the same but lighter print on the paper and lighter print on the blade (almost as light as an etch, but it's not). Granted, I only have had three shaves from the one blade, but I enjoyed them all ... a LOT! Again, my immediate point of reference would be to the Lord Stainless blades, particularly the RACER branding. Maybe I got the sharp one in the pack and you found the dull one in the pack.
Either way, I thoroughly enjoyed three shaves and seeing it behind the Flying Eagle carbon doesn't ring right with me as I could not finish much more than one cheek from a handful of strokes from that blade before switching it out. Maybe its the grind? Maybe I have newer stock - I got mine from RBC.
The ZAZA Stainless is puzzling!
I think you're right in that this is old stock, so perhaps I got new stock but mine look very much the same but lighter print on the paper and lighter print on the blade (almost as light as an etch, but it's not). Granted, I only have had three shaves from the one blade, but I enjoyed them all ... a LOT! Again, my immediate point of reference would be to the Lord Stainless blades, particularly the RACER branding. Maybe I got the sharp one in the pack and you found the dull one in the pack.
Either way, I thoroughly enjoyed three shaves and seeing it behind the Flying Eagle carbon doesn't ring right with me as I could not finish much more than one cheek from a handful of strokes from that blade before switching it out. Maybe its the grind? Maybe I have newer stock - I got mine from RBC.
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- #911
Mine is from RBC, too, but could still be different or damaged. It is definitely a different grind from the other Derbys.
There's also a thought that Derby are not the only Turkish blade producer ... that Zaza are a distinct company/entity.
"Zaza starts in 1917 with Paul Zazadze, moving to from Georgia to Istanbul, for his university study. As he could not return home due to the Bolshevik Revolution, he started working with Georgian traders in Tahtakale, Istanbul, by trading straight razors and knives imported from Germany. In 1930, he founded the well known razor blade factory.
Today, Zaza Group is run by the third generation of Zazadze family with it's 100 years of experience and contributions to the traditional shaving world. We, as RAZORUS.com are proud to be able to supply ZAZA products to you."
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- #913
Derby claims to be the only Turkish manufacturer and the Zaza Platinum is definitely made to Derby specification. That's not to say that Derby employees didn't go to another company and use that knowledge there.There's also a thought that Derby are not the only Turkish blade producer ... that Zaza are a distinct company/entity.
"Zaza starts in 1917 with Paul Zazadze, moving to from Georgia to Istanbul, for his university study. As he could not return home due to the Bolshevik Revolution, he started working with Georgian traders in Tahtakale, Istanbul, by trading straight razors and knives imported from Germany. In 1930, he founded the well known razor blade factory.
Today, Zaza Group is run by the third generation of Zazadze family with it's 100 years of experience and contributions to the traditional shaving world. We, as RAZORUS.com are proud to be able to supply ZAZA products to you."
Zaza was producing blades at some point, perhaps my Gold one, but perhaps decided to market the white label Derbys under their brand for better cost and quality.
It would be nice to test a known pre-2016 Derby, or a known post-2016 Zaza Gold at some point.
Exactly.There's also a thought that Derby are not the only Turkish blade producer ... that Zaza are a distinct company/entity.
"Zaza starts in 1917 with Paul Zazadze, moving to from Georgia to Istanbul, for his university study. As he could not return home due to the Bolshevik Revolution, he started working with Georgian traders in Tahtakale, Istanbul, by trading straight razors and knives imported from Germany. In 1930, he founded the well known razor blade factory.
Today, Zaza Group is run by the third generation of Zazadze family with it's 100 years of experience and contributions to the traditional shaving world. We, as RAZORUS.com are proud to be able to supply ZAZA products to you."
Zaza blades are produced by the Zaza Group which also produces a type of blade known as Lord Super Razor blades, different from the Egyptian Lord blades.
In Italy it is quite well known that they are different companies, Derby are from the Amzusebat company while Zaza are produced by Zaza Group /Kartal Çelik Eşya San.ve Tic.a.ş.
Just search online, this company Zaza Group has an official profile on the social network Instagram.
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I'm sorry but the information is not correct.
In some European traditional shaving forums it is also written, confirming the existence of the Zaza Group company, that the Perma Sharp blade, before being acquired by Gillette, was originally produced and/or distributed by Zaza in Turkey.
It should also be written in this forum, if you do some research among posts and topics from past years.
I have to check again, it seems to me it must be written right on the web page of the Turkish supplier of articles for barbers and Turkish blades, of which the member @pjgh provided the link.
Zaza blades are not produced in Derby factories but in Turkey in the industries of Zaza Group, while perhaps the Zaza Group company's Lord blades are produced in Bulgaria.
On the packaging of Zaza's Turkish Lord Super Razor blades it says made in EU.
In an old comment many years ago in the Italian forum where a member wrote about the Lord Super Stainless Zaza blades being made in Bulgaria.
I had found a Facebook page of a distributor in Algeria half and whole Lord Zaza Super Stainless blades.
Perhaps these Turkish Lord blades are sold in those parts of Africa.
In Italy you can probably find them but it is not so easy.
Lamette da Barba Double Edge Lord Super Stainless 1Pc 10 Lame - https://www.barbaebaffi.it/item/lamette-da-barba-double-edge-lord-super-stainless-1pc-10-lame.html?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrY_Th8vNiQMVM5CDBx0E4AZrEAQYAyABEgJH5fD_BwE
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- #917
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- #918
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- #919
Yes, @BigAlVista publishes the database regularly. It has a field for country, but not for blade material. Blade material is part of the information in the text field for the blade model.
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- #920
The Turkish Lord and the Zaza are independent Turkish brands. I don't see anything that makes me conclude either company is actually manufacturing blades in Turkey. I do see some pretty good evidence that Derby is the only one making blades in Turkey. Looks like a case of distributor and retailer telephone game and intentional obscufaction to me. I think they are either old, and no longer in production, or private label Derbys.
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