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Blade Sharpness Research Project

This is the Derby Extra Stainless Orange blade. It is a Turkish blade packaged for US distribution. I decided to test it because it comes in a blister pack that was cluttering up my workspace. It isn't very sharp or durable. The Derby Extra Super Stainless Green blade was sharper, but they are close enough that it could just be batch variation.

View attachment 1883902

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It comes in a plastic tuck of ten blades single wrapped in printed waxed paper.

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There are medium wax dots, and stenciling with the grind numbers. The blade does say "Super Stainless."

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The primary grind is coarse and uneven. There is some honing on the bevel. There is a heavy and uneven coating.
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After testing, the bevel has smoothed out, the coating has worn, and we see a few big chips at the apex.
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Information Summary:

View attachment 1883917

Date7/26/247/26/247/26/247/26/247/26/24
BladeDerby ExtraStainlessOrangeTurkey~2023
Shaves0P3P6P9P12
LocationBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/Top
MediumStren 8 .29Stren 8 .29Stren 8 .29Stren 8 .29Stren 8 .29
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements3030303030
Std. Dev.1317211621
Median F (g)979894.5107.5104.5
Mean F (g) Btm9899102105102
Mean F (g) Top909597115116
Mean F (g)9497100110109
BESS Adj. Factor0.830.830.830.830.83
Av. Adj. F (g) Bt8283858785
Av. Adj. F (g) Top7579809596
Median adj. F (g)8181788987
Mean adj. F (g)7881839191

View attachment 1883915


Blade Sharpness Test Index

Complete Data:

Date7/26/247/26/247/26/247/26/247/26/24
BladeDerby ExtraStainlessOrangeTurkey~2023
Shaves0P3P6P9P12
LocationBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/Top
MediumStren 8 .29Stren 8 .29Stren 8 .29Stren 8 .29Stren 8 .29
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements3030303030
Std. Dev.1317211621
Median F (g)979894.5107.5104.5
Mean F (g) Btm9899102105102
Mean F (g) Top909597115116
Mean F (g)9497100110109
F (g) 19799877186
F (g) 2961061028992
F (g) 31059910597101
F (g) 410362109101130
F (g) 59796105122106
F (g) 698100105104103
F (g) 710293110109108
F (g) 8102941119797
F (g) 999100123115105
F (g) 1094928813195
F (g) 111071219411285
F (g) 1298101828194
F (g) 1391105130112110
F (g) 141011209995112
F (g) 158610484137107
F (g) 16908794104128
F (g) 1779849413593
F (g) 1874142158101143
F (g) 19979792125100
F (g) 206580150103101
F (g) 21979189131124
F (g) 22817385102163
F (g) 231248769109104
F (g) 248013195118172
F (g) 251048966104107
F (g) 267910088106121
F (g) 2786759510390
F (g) 2811311111412992
F (g) 291118575121121
F (g) 30731008713484
Actually the green package Derby Extra blades and the orange package Derby Extra blades are the same Derby Extra blade, even the blue package are all the same blade.
Only the number of blades in the package changes.
The orange package of Derby Extra blades are not packaged for the American market, they are also available in Europe.
Your evidence of use says they are different blades?
 
Actually the green package Derby Extra blades and the orange package Derby Extra blades are the same Derby Extra blade, even the blue package are all the same blade.
Only the number of blades in the package changes.
The orange package of Derby Extra blades are not packaged for the American market, they are also available in Europe.
Your evidence of use says they are different blades?

I am just observing what is on the package. This package says New Jersey on it. I am making an assumption that the American company is a local sales organization. The hanger is a one hole version, so it could be for a global market. Does the European market blister hanger say New Jersey?

As for the specs, I didn't know the orange, green, and blue were all supposed to be the same. Let's test some more and see how they group up. It can be difficult to sort them into buckets if the tolerances are wide or the processes are out of control. Some of these companies have blades that fall into clean buckets and others look like a natural curve when you test a bunch of them.
 
I am just observing what is on the package. This package says New Jersey on it. I am making an assumption that the American company is a local sales organization. The hanger is a one hole version, so it could be for a global market. Does the European market blister hanger say New Jersey?

As for the specs, I didn't know the orange, green, and blue were all supposed to be the same. Let's test some more and see how they group up. It can be difficult to sort them into buckets if the tolerances are wide or the processes are out of control. Some of these companies have blades that fall into clean buckets and others look like a natural curve when you test a bunch of them.
I must have mistranslated/interpreted your comment.

I thought you meant the Derby Extra orange label blades were a type of blade distributed only in America.

The writing blade in Spanish and other Spanish writing on the packaging would suggest that it is an edition also for the Latin American and Brazil markets, however it is still the same Derby Extra blade from the green and blue packaging.
Yeah, they are all the same blade.

Five blades in the green pack, ten in the blue pack ,ten in the orange pack...unlike the green and orange packs that have the display of one hundred blades,the display of the blue pack has 200 blades.

Whatever color of the package of Derby Extra green,orange or blue blades are all the same blade, yes the only difference might be for productions of different vintages.
 
I must have mistranslated/interpreted your comment.

I thought you meant the Derby Extra orange label blades were a type of blade distributed only in America.

The writing blade in Spanish and other Spanish writing on the packaging would suggest that it is an edition also for the Latin American and Brazil markets, however it is still the same Derby Extra blade from the green and blue packaging.
Yeah, they are all the same blade.

Five blades in the green pack, ten in the blue pack ,ten in the orange pack...unlike the green and orange packs that have the display of one hundred blades,the display of the blue pack has 200 blades.

Whatever color of the package of Derby Extra green,orange or blue blades are all the same blade, yes the only difference might be for productions of different vintages.
I did say "US" when "American markets" is what I should have said.

But, yes, I was just referring to the blister hanger and would assume there is like a 95% chance it is not a special or different blade specification. I just like to make some notes about packaging because it is an important part of the product to me.

I am not going to trust hearsay or the manufacturer that they are all the same, though. Those are part of the puzzle, but so are my own observations. It is useful to know they are all supposed to be made to the same spec.

As I said, we will know more when more Derby measurements are done. I normally try to get through some of the testing before I go and do research for the report so that I am less biased.

I am somewhat impartial anyway though, since I know I can reveal objective information hidden in the blade itself. Websites and subjective impressions can be valuable, but I dont trust them blindly. My work is a unique primary source for objective public information about blades.

The measurements I take are accurate within 1%. I don't always draw the right conclusion, and I appreciate and value some push back, but if you disagree with the measurements themselves, then you are misinterpreting them, or you are putting too much faith in your subjective impressions.

The most common mistake in interpreting my presentation of this information is for people to assume that the thing I measured is the same as the thing they tried themselves. If we are looking at Czech Blades, Dorco, Treet, Sotraco, and others, you should just assume your box of blades is like a lottery ticket. A lot of these blades don't even have two similar edges on the same individual blade. Everything in that box of 100 is probably pretty similar, but that doesn't mean every other box is too.

Even within the same production run on the same day, belts get worn, ovens cycle on and off, fluids get topped off, raw material is replenished, people take breaks. We observed with two Personna blades sent by different members but produced on the same day to the same specification, the sharpness was quite different.
 
I am just observing what is on the package. This package says New Jersey on it. I am making an assumption that the American company is a local sales organization. The hanger is a one hole version, so it could be for a global market. Does the European market blister hanger say New Jersey?

As for the specs, I didn't know the orange, green, and blue were all supposed to be the same. Let's test some more and see how they group up. It can be difficult to sort them into buckets if the tolerances are wide or the processes are out of control. Some of these companies have blades that fall into clean buckets and others look like a natural curve when you test a bunch of them.
Good to know this. I will just try to avoid the old ones for now, but if I run across one, hopefully I can tell somehow and make a note of that.
 
I just wanted to dive in and say I have been reading through all your findings this past week and enjoying them immensely. I was really interested in your observations that some LORD blades are irregular in terms of the sharpness on each side. I had an extreme example of that this week with an ASCO - once side felt great but the other was completely hopeless, so it's definitely not just an anomaly in the blades you tested. I am going to put some Lord Platinums and Silver Stars through their paces over the next few shaves to see if I encounter the phenomena again, but the QC on these blades being all over the place certainly does illuminate why my experiences of them seem so inconsistent - great one shave, awful the next!

Keep up the good work, sir! This thread is a goldmine and you are the miner!
 
I just wanted to dive in and say I have been reading through all your findings this past week and enjoying them immensely. I was really interested in your observations that some LORD blades are irregular in terms of the sharpness on each side. I had an extreme example of that this week with an ASCO - once side felt great but the other was completely hopeless, so it's definitely not just an anomaly in the blades you tested. I am going to put some Lord Platinums and Silver Stars through their paces over the next few shaves to see if I encounter the phenomena again, but the QC on these blades being all over the place certainly does illuminate why my experiences of them seem so inconsistent - great one shave, awful the next!

Keep up the good work, sir! This thread is a goldmine and you are the miner!
The edge to edge variance is something that is pretty common with these small independent producers. I think people will find that in their subjective impressions if they know to look for it. Especially when the blade starts tugging. Do you need to bin it immediately, or can you just finish the shave with the other edge? Often you can finish on the other edge.

It is helpful when measuring because it let's me know not to expect the blades to be the same from one carton to another. If they don't get it the same at the same moment on the same piece of steel, it would be nuts to expect consistency across production runs.
 
I just wanted to dive in and say I have been reading through all your findings this past week and enjoying them immensely. I was really interested in your observations that some LORD blades are irregular in terms of the sharpness on each side. I had an extreme example of that this week with an ASCO - once side felt great but the other was completely hopeless, so it's definitely not just an anomaly in the blades you tested. I am going to put some Lord Platinums and Silver Stars through their paces over the next few shaves to see if I encounter the phenomena again, but the QC on these blades being all over the place certainly does illuminate why my experiences of them seem so inconsistent - great one shave, awful the next!

Keep up the good work, sir! This thread is a goldmine and you are the miner!

The ASCO Orange is the worst blade I have used this year. I could not believe some of the good opinions given by my esteemed fellow testers and I almost felt gas-lit. Maybe I was using bad tucks. I'll have to revisit the ASCO sometime.
 
The ASCO Orange is the worst blade I have used this year. I could not believe some of the good opinions given by my esteemed fellow testers and I almost felt gas-lit. Maybe I was using bad tucks. I'll have to revisit the ASCO sometime.

I feel like the ASCO might be one of the hidden gems in the LORD line up, but I realise from @helicopter's results that it's very hard to draw firm distinctions with these blades because there is so much variability from blade to blade, let alone tuck to tuck. Generally, I like the Platinums and Silver Stars. The former are barely sharp enough for me (although the data says they are sharper than other LORD offerings) and the SS range from great to terrible in the same tuck. To me, a good ASCO edge feels like a SS but smoother. A bad one feels like a cheese grater. It's not so much a case of, "your mileage may vary" as "your individual examples of this particular blade will definitely vary!"
 
This is Derby's Blue Bird blade. It is crudely ground from thin steel, resulting in a blade that had dull spots at the beginning of the test. It was fairly dull overall, with very poor consistency and poor durability. I am guessing this is a bad batch or part of the batch, but I wouldn't call that a fluke with this manufacturer.

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That secondary grind has some big scratches going right to the edge. Those spots showed up in testing immediately as dull spots.

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There is lots of chipping and large denting after the test.
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It was fairly dull overall, but that doesn't tell the whole story. It is never smooth, so it is never going to provide a clean pass over a beard.

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There is a J-shaped platinum coating curve hiding in there, but you don't see it because it is overwhelmed by the bad grind in the averages. Standard deviation is very high throughout the test, due to the damage at the apex from the large inconsistent particles used for the secondary grind.

Date15-Oct-2024

Blade Thickness, mm0.090
BladeDerbyBlue BirdCr cer Pt w Poly seTürkiye1-Jan-2024
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.1730262032
Median F (g)54.55164.55876
Mean F (g) Top5467715871
Mean F (g) Bottom6362646392
Mean F (g)5964676182
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top6681877187
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom77767877112
Median Adj. F (g)6762797193
Mean Adj. F (g)72788274100

Maybe this blade was ground with fresh belts that needed some burnishing before they could grind properly.

1729014244012.png


Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
Here we have Derby's Diamonds Pro Excell blade, which is a blade of standard thickness, mild in sharpness, and has good consistency and durability. Overall performance is much better than the thin blades from Derby that have been tested recently, but the grind is still crude.

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The scratches from the secondary grind are all honed out in the tertiary grind well before the apex. It is a good design within the constraints of such unevenly sized abrasive particles, but the angle of the apex must not be very steep, limiting the sharpness.
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The thicker steel and grind are much more durable than Blue Bird. This one exhibits the typical failure mode of medium chipping.
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Standard deviation is still quite high due to the quality of the steel and grind, and the underlying randomness of the sharpness at various places along each edge causes the abnormal wear curve we see. There is another J-shaped curve hiding in there. I think all of these blades have the same coating.

Date15-Oct-2024

Blade Thickness, mm0.100
BladeDerbyDiamondsPro ExcellTürkiye1-Jan-2024
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.11159108
Median F (g)61.55458.560.556
Mean F (g) Top5552626060
Mean F (g) Bottom7062576053
Mean F (g)6357606057
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top6763767373
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom8675707365
Median Adj. F (g)7565717468
Mean Adj. F (g)7769737369

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Again, there are better blades available, made from better steel, ground with better abrasives, and produced with more controlled processes, but this one isn't as bad as the thin ones.

Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is Derby's Concord blade. It is thin, mild, and had better durability and consistency than I have come to expect of a thin Derby blade. It says it has a platinum coating, and I believe it is the same coating as their other blades.

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It looks a lot better than some of the other Derby blades tested, in terms of the consistency of the scratch size at each stage, and the evenness of the transitions between stages. I suspect this is due to where the belts are in their life, that is, that they are worn enough that the bigger particles are gone, and also, perhaps this blade has different angles. I think it is probably the same or similar grind and steel specification as Blue Bird.
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The edge is in good condition after the test, with a failure mode of small chipping.
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It is a pretty mild blade, even when you get one with a good grind.
1729109417825.png


I think this is a good example of this blade specification. None of the other examples are both similar enough and good enough for me to confidently say they match this specification. Unfortunately, Derby's does not seem to have stringent specifications and well controlled processed. Perhaps they have one or the other, but not both. I have a couple more Derby blades to test. Maybe one of them will tell us something interesting.

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Date16-Oct-2024

Blade Thickness, mm0.090
BladeDerbyConcordPlatinumTürkiye1-Jan-2024
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.1413101824
Median F (g)595354.55768.5
Mean F (g) Top5154577073
Mean F (g) Bottom6759565465
Mean F (g)5956566269
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top6366698590
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom8172686679
Median Adj. F (g)7265677084
Mean Adj. F (g)7269697684

1729109454184.png




Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is the Schick Injector blade. It is made in China by Edgewell. I got it yesterday at The Razor Company. I used one to shave with today in a vintage Schick Eversharp, and my subjective experience was that it felt sharper than the measurements indicated, but not extremely sharp. It is actually a moderate blade. It is more durable than most double edge blades but less durable than most thick single edge blades. It should be fairly consistent from one shave to the next during its useful life, and it should remain comfortable until it isn't sharp enough to do the job, due to a failure mode of small denting.

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There is a date code of 10/31/2022 on the dispenser.
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The steel is the same thickness as the Schick Proline AC blade, but the grind is different. The secondary bevel is much taller on this one. The metallic coating on this one looks darker and the polymer coating looks the similar. The scratches are typical. They used good abrasives.

1000012121.jpg


The failure mode is small denting, which should mean it feels smooth before it wears out.
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It is milder than the Schick AC blade, and shows a W-shaped cutting force wear curve, which I believe is statistical rather than physical. I think the actual curve with more sample points would show the typical J-curve for a platinum coating.

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Date16-Oct-2024

Blade Thickness, mm0.261
BladeEdgewellSchickInjectorChina31-Oct-2022
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottomBottomBottomBottomBottom
Measurement MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements1515151515
Adj. Std. Dev.10981013
Median F (g)6049475050
Mean F (g)5851475054
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Median Adj. F (g)7360576161
Mean Adj. F (g)7162576166

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It is the only injector blade I have tried. It seems to be well constructed and provided an excellent shave in my vintage Schick Eversharp injector razor today. I would probably be even happier with a sharper blade that can handle my upper lip a little better.

Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is Derby's Lion blade, which I also picked up at The Razor Company yesterday. Despite being another thin blade with a crude grind, overall performance was fairly good. It is mild like the others, with good durability and reasonably good consistency. If you want to try an OEM Derby blade, this is your best option, so far.

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It performed realtively well for ta thin Derby blade. I was surprised when I measured its thickness. It is sharper than the other OEM Derby blades, but not as sharp as the two private label blades tested.

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It is still a fairly mild blade.

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Date17-Oct-2024

Blade Thickness, mm0.090
BladeDerbyLionSuper StainlessTürkiye1-Jan-2024
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.77121011
Median F (g)585354.55757.5
Mean F (g) Top5753606363
Mean F (g) Bottom5954525554
Mean F (g)5853565959
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top6965737777
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom7265646766
Median Adj. F (g)7164677070
Mean Adj. F (g)7165687272


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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is another blade I picked up at The Razor Company yesterday, the Derby Usta, which is the last Derby blade I have here, and the last of the Derby blades available at TRC. I believe this one is close to nominal for their specification, since the steel held up to testing and the resultant data was not erratic. It is quite mild, and near the middle of the Derby pack in sharpness, with fair durability and consistency.

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This one has those secondary scratches near the bevel, and they did show up later in the test, driving the sharp increase in cutting force as the blade progressed through paper cuts. The grind is fairly typical, and better than some of the other Derbys tested. I think they run inexpensive belts for a long time to keep costs down, and in this case, we get belts that have the oversized particles worn off, and proper particles still present, in the sweet spot again.
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There is typical small chipping along the edge after the test.
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A nice J-curve from the coating, and fairly rapid dulling due to the thin steel and crude secondary grind. It is hard to say how many specifications there are. I know there are two steels, with the thin one used on most of these, and I suspect they all have the same coating. we know some of them are made from Swedish Sandvik steel, but we don't know if there is a standard grade steel positioned below them in the lineup. I think there probably is. I would need to test blades across batches to say if there are actually any intentional grind differences, or if we are just seeing batch variation. I would be more eager to find out more if the performance of any of these blades had been impressive. As it is, there are still lots of more interesting blades to test than additional batches of Derbys.

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Standard deviation climbed high after the second paper cut. It probably won't work for more than a few shaves before it starts tugging a lot.

Date17-Oct-2024

Blade Thickness, mm0.090
BladeDerbyDerbyUstaTürkiye1-Jan-2024
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.117162322
Median F (g)6356575864.5
Mean F (g) Top6254606573
Mean F (g) Bottom6557606265
Mean F (g)6455606469
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top7666737989
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom7969737680
Median Adj. F (g)7768707179
Mean Adj. F (g)7868737884

It is quite mild compared to blades from other manufacturers.

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Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
This is the Treet Carbon Steel blade, the 'Black Beauty." It is dull, with low consistency and durability, but that's how carbon steel blades are supposed to be, and some people like them. When I shave with them, I can get through the hair, but it takes a different technique involving pressure, speed, and certain places where I only go with the grain.

Some people like these blades because of how they perform, being much less likely to dive into the skin, and some people like them because they are old fashioned. For me, they can be an entertaining change of pace, like camping, but they aren't something I want to use on a regular basis.

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The graphic design is classic and pleasing, but I think Czech Blades has the edge here.

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The box is pretty nice, and it has a date code.

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The grind is almost like a straight razor in a way, with the tertiary bevel that is so small it could be compared to a stropped edge. It makes sense because the materials are more similar to each other than they are to stainless razor blade steels.

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The edge is trashed after my standard test. There is lots of large chipping. It could be worse; some blades will fold over and such.To be fair, these blades are not supposed to be pushed on durability and they are not designed to last through anything more rigorous than the first paper cut test. Subsequent measurements are really just there for consistency with other tests of more durable blades.

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It is quite dull, with low durability and consistency.
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If we make a chart of dull blades, we see that all of the carbon steel blades show up on it. They aren't really supposed to be sharp. I don't think the alloys can tolerate a really thin edge.

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It was 96 microns thick, which is a bit unusual.

Date18-Oct-2024

Blade Thickness, mm0.096
BladeTreetTreetCarbon SteelPakistan30-Dec-2021
Wear on Edge036912
Edges MeasuredBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / TopBottom / Top
Measurement MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2020202020
Adj. Std. Dev.2521131615
Median F (g)73103121.5125125
Mean F (g) Top7586114111111
Mean F (g) Bottom87115122125125
Mean F (g)81101118118118
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Avg. Adj. F (g) Top91105139135136
Avg. Adj. F (g) Bottom106140149152153
Median Adj. F (g)89125148153153
Mean Adj. F (g)99123144144144

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It is not expensive and it does what it is supposed to do. I prefer something that can cut with about half as much force. You can be the judge of whether it is something you want to experience.

Blade Sharpness Test Index
 
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