What's new

Blade Sharpness Research Project

This chart really illustrates how the coating held back performance during the first cut test

I really like this part of the test, one can see which blade has thicker coatings.

Perhaps this info could be used by the folks concerned about Teflon coatings. Knowing that it is on pretty much all blades out there, they could make an informed choice and get a blade with a thinner coating.
 
I present the Fatip, which is "Made in Europe" for the Sicilian razor company of the same name.

That packaging looks familiar and so does the blade. The printing on the tuck is classic Fatip, but the cardboard, the paper wrappers, and the laser etching on the blade are the same as the Boker blade.

1000009054.jpg

1000009055.jpg


The grind and the coating also look identical to the Boker.

1000009056.jpg


After the test, it looks like the Boker and the Tatara. The new Tatara has a heavier coating, but now that it is worn off, the steel is the same. There is some medium chipping along the edge which is typical of razor steel that isn't durable.

1000009067.jpg


The performance is the same as the Boker. The wear curve is the same. The Tatara is a little bit better overall.

1722810415742.png

I was wondering if the breakdown of one edge was an anomaly, but we see some local failure in the same edge of the one I shaved with today. There is also some local razor burn on my neck. The overall performance also matches the Boker.

Date8/4/248/4/248/4/248/4/248/4/248/4/24
BladeFatipStainless SteelIce TemperedEurope~2024
Shaves0P3P6P9P121
LocationBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/Top
MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaperFace
Measurements202020202020
Std. Dev.5713142017
Median F (g)494656.560.56948
Mean F (g) Btm524652586547
Mean F (g) Top475063708460
Mean F (g)494858647453
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.221.22
Av. Adj. F (g) Bt635664717957
Av. Adj. F (g) Top5762778610273
Median adj. F (g)605669748459
Mean adj. F (g)605970789065

My chin is really hard on blades, but I think it should have been in better shape after a few passes and one session on my face. I am not going to buy any of these "Made in Europe" blades again soon, but if I were, I would go for the Tatara with the thicker and better performing coating.

1722810509274.png


I think this is the exact same blade as the Boker. I am fairly confident in this. I also think this is probably the exact same steel and grind as the Tatara, but perhaps the Tatara has a thinner edge. That this is the same as Boker explains the identical appearance of everything, including microscopic properties. There is only a difference in the printing on the outer tuck. It also explains the extremely similar wear curve.
 
Another private label European blade, the Van Der Hagen Ice Tempered is proudly made in Germany. Van Der Hagen also sells a Chinese blade, which was measured previously. It does not appear to be related to the VDH Basics blade. It is reasonably durable, reasonably consistent, and quite sharp.

The orange plastic tuck for this blade is from the same mold as the white one for my Timor blades, but I haven't tested those yet. The Timor is also German. We will be able to compare them after I measure the Timor. I prefer a cardboard tuck, but the packaging is very nice. There clean printing on the blade, and good graphic design.

1000009068.jpg


1000009070.jpg


It is ground in three stages. The primary and secondary bevels are of medium and uneven grind, and the honing is smooth at the edge. Among German blades, it reminds me of the Wilkinson Sword.
1000009071.jpg


We see some small and medium chipping along the edge after testing, and the bevels have smoothed out quite a bit.
1000009072.jpg


1722815027136.png


Date8/4/248/4/248/4/248/4/248/4/24
BladeVan Der HagenIce TemperedStainlessGermany~2024
Shaves0P3P6P9P12
LocationTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/Bottom
MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2424242020
Std. Dev.99182026
Median F (g)53.546464952
Mean F (g) Top5950525861
Mean F (g) Btm4744525561
Mean F (g)5347525661
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Av. Adj. F (g) Top7262637174
Av. Adj. F (g) Btm5854636775
Median adj. F (g)6556566063
Mean adj. F (g)6558636975

1722815129428.png


Blade Sharpness Test Index

Complete Data and Media Calibration
 
Since it raised some questions in the previous test, I took a look at this Timor Ice Tempered blade from Solingen.

The blade is very sharp, exceptionally consistent, and quite durable. It is a blade of excellent performance. I think this might be the reason the "Made in Europe" people are so embarrassed about their blades. It is an expensive blade, at $6/10, but I think the price is reasonable if you consider the quality, heritage, and high cost production location. I am not going to run out and buy a bunch of them when they cost more than twice as much as Feather or Accutec Personna, and four times as much as Bic CP, but I also don't feel like they pulled they price out of the air like the Boker and a handful of other expensive European blades.

It has a nice looking design, and comes in a white plastic tuck. The blade is printed. You can see it is single wrapped in waxed paper with four wax dots.

1000009074.jpg


1000009077.jpg


Compared to VDH Ice Tempered, left, the only difference in the tuck is the color. They both bear the number "3" at the top of the photo.
1000009076.jpg


It is ground in three stages, and the primary bevel is uneven and medium coarseness. All I can say from the photos is that this blade might be the same as the German Wilkinson or the German VDH. The primary bevels look almost identical in the photos, and the rest of the grind and the coating looks similar, but not identical. I can't say if there are any design differences, or if there are just some batch variations.
1000009078.jpg


The secondary bevel smoothed out a lot during testing. The edge remains in excellent condition.
1000009079.jpg


The durability curve and the overall sharpness are very similar to the German Wilkinson Sword blade I tested previously. The VDH Ice Tempered blade wasn't as sharp or durable as those blades, but they are close enough that it would not surprise me if they are just different batches of the same blade. My understanding is that Timor is a family-owned factory, Edgewell owns Wilkinson Sword in Europe, and another company owns Van Der Hagen, so I can't make enough sense of it to draw any conclusions. This Timor blade did perform better than those other two.

1722820059954.png


Date8/4/248/4/248/4/248/4/248/4/24
BladeTimorIce TemperedSolingenGermany~2024
Shaves0P3P6P9P12
LocationTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/Bottom
MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2424242020
Std. Dev.74446
Median F (g)49444446.549.5
Mean F (g) Top5143444648
Mean F (g) Btm4647474854
Mean F (g)4945454751
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Av. Adj. F (g) Top6252545658
Av. Adj. F (g) Btm5657575966
Median adj. F (g)6054545760
Mean adj. F (g)5955555762

1722820455747.png



Blade Sharpness Test Index

Complete Data and Media Calibration
 
I hope I am not the only person who finds this a bit hilarious .

It is so bad.

FWIW, I've been using the China made London Bridge blades this past week and the printing on them looks much closer to the original. Not blurry or uneven like those. Maybe not laser precise, but just normal looking.

I think the newer London Bridge blades are quite good considering they sell for something like $3.50/100 in Indonesia.
 
FWIW, I've been using the China made London Bridge blades this past week and the printing on them looks much closer to the original. Not blurry or uneven like those. Maybe not laser precise, but just normal looking.

I think the newer London Bridge blades are quite good considering they sell for something like $3.50/100 in Indonesia.
How many times are you using them?

It looked like it would be alright if you didn't push it.
 
So far, three shaves per edge in a Parker SoloEdge that takes half DE blades. I think I can get four shaves per edge. The blades have been very smooth, I was surprised by them. Not usually a fan of Chinese blades.
It's got a honing over about 60% of the bevel, and a durable coating there. The steel isn't durable, but you are probably only taking it to about cut test P3-P6 if it still feels good after 4 SE shaves. It is probably fairly mild and just starting to get some small chipping by then.

You must not be too picky about where a blade falls on the sharpness spectrum, at least from fairly sharp to quite mild, like 65-75g at least, and not too hard on the blades, maybe only equivalent to one sheet of paper on a SE shave. You could probably find another moderate blade with a smooth 2-facet bevel in better steel and use it for a long time.
 
It's got a honing over about 60% of the bevel, and a durable coating there. The steel isn't durable, but you are probably only taking it to about cut test P3-P6 if it still feels good after 4 SE shaves. It is probably fairly mild and just starting to get some small chipping by then.

You must not be too picky about where a blade falls on the sharpness spectrum, at least from fairly sharp to quite mild, like 65-75g at least, and not too hard on the blades, maybe only equivalent to one sheet of paper on a SE shave. You could probably find another moderate blade with a smooth 2-facet bevel in better steel and use it for a long time.

My favorite blades in this razor so far have been BIC Chrome Platinum and Personna Med Prep. Perma-Sharp Super half-blades have also been very good. I don't think the London Bridge is at that level, but still quite usable, at least IME. Most of my razors clamp and support the blade close to the edge (such as Gillette New SC or Fatip Grande). I sometimes wonder if your simulated test conditions might be harder on the blade than shaving under normal conditions would be.
 
It's got a honing over about 60% of the bevel, and a durable coating there. The steel isn't durable, but you are probably only taking it to about cut test P3-P6 if it still feels good after 4 SE shaves. It is probably fairly mild and just starting to get some small chipping by then.

You must not be too picky about where a blade falls on the sharpness spectrum, at least from fairly sharp to quite mild, like 65-75g at least, and not too hard on the blades, maybe only equivalent to one sheet of paper on a SE shave. You could probably find another moderate blade with a smooth 2-facet bevel in better steel and use it for a long time.
I'm impressed. You're like a doctor or pharmacist except with razor blades!
 
Here we have another "Made in EU" blade, the Razolution Ice Tempered Stainless blade. It is obviously the same blade as the Boker, Tatara, and Fatip, except that this one is defective and shouldn't have left the factory. I think it has a bad heat treatment, because it looks fine. The first one I started measuring had >125g dead spots on the very first two measurements. I ran my finger over the edge and found it had chipped in two places as soon as it touched the 0.22mm nylon. My first thought was that it might have gotten damaged, so I examined it under the microscope and found it was only damaged in those two spots. I binned it, and grabbed a fresh blade from the middle of the tuck. The results are for the fresh one.

I am not sure if "Razolution" is a portmanteau of "razor" and "solution" or "razor" and "revolution," but I don't see this one actually 'solving' any problem and it certainly isn't 'revolutionary." "Razoscrap" might have been a better name for this batch of blades, since it should have gone right into the scrap bin.

It is double wrapped in a cardboard tuck of ten blades with small glue dots. It has a parchment look, but that is printed on white cardboard and paper. The packaging is basically perfect, except it is missing basic information including a date code, specific production location, and the coating used. True perfection would also tell us the alloy they used and have better graphic design.

1000009090.jpg


It is funny they don't even bother to customize the program for the laser printing on most of these, but it makes sense because, along with the vague production location, they don't actually have to schedule any production except for printing the outer wrapper and tuck. They can just grab the blade off the shelf, box it up, and ship it to the customer. It is the generic European blade.
1000009092.jpg


It is exactly the same as the others visually, before testing.
1000009094.jpg


This blade shows a combination of lots of denting and large chipping. Proper razor steel will have either some small chipping, some small denting, and the best steel will remain in excellent condition through the end of the test. This steel is neither tough nor hard, but they still shipped it.
1000009096.jpg


1722867165218.png


Date8/5/248/5/248/5/248/5/248/5/24
BladeRazolutionIce Tempered
European Union~2024
Shaves0P3P6P9P12
LocationTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/Bottom
MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements3030302020
Std. Dev.2622211715
Median F (g)63.571106.5124125
Mean F (g) Top678099111117
Mean F (g) Btm7876106113117
Mean F (g)7278103112117
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Av. Adj. F (g) Top8197121136143
Av. Adj. F (g) Btm9593130138142
Median adj. F (g)7787130151153
Mean adj. F (g)8895125137142

Exceptionally bad performance from this batch. I didn't expect them to disappoint me further, but they managed to do it. Whatever you do, don't buy this specific blade from TRC until they have had time to get rid of this defective batch. The batches in Tatara and Fatip packaging are cheaper anyway, so get one of those from TRC if you want to try these.

1722868388589.png


It is an embarrassment, but it is also sort of par for the course with razor blades in general. A lot of these production facilities just don't have their processes under control. It isn't the first time I have tested a blade that never should have made it past inspection. This is something they could have easily detected without even using a microscope or a force meter. All they would have to do is push it through some office paper and then run their finger over the edge.

Blade Sharpness Test Index

Complete Data and Media Calibration
 
I measured the Dovo Super Platinum Stainless blade, which is made in Germany for the famous Solingen straight razor maker. It doesn't seem to be related to any other blade tested so far. It is a moderate to mild blade with a beautiful smooth triple grind, made from tough and resilient steel that isn't as hard and durable as most razor steels, but has great performance compared to other tough steels. I measured two of them, because I had some concerns about the first one, but comparing two of them, I think both sets of measurements represent the blade reasonably well. It is one of the most expensive blades I have tested; it costs $10/10.

It comes in a white plastic tuck with single thick waxed paper wrappers and four wax dots. Dovo's graphic design is fantastic.

1000009116.jpg


This is funny. I don't doubt it is true for many people who are happy with a milder blade.
1000009120.jpg


It is ground in three very even stages, which start out fine and work to a polish at the edge. The coating is thick and sloppy. I don't think it is related to the other German blades that have been tested. It looks like they may have used more expensive synthetic abrasives to get an exceptionally even grind at each of the three stages.
1000009118.jpg


It looks great after the test, with the coating gone, the bevels smoothed out, and only a tiny bit of small chipping at the edge. If the sharpness suits you, then it will probably shave nicely. It is a tough and resilient steel of reasonable hardness, which keeps it smooth, but it is not as durable as harder steels that tend to be more brittle. A softer but tougher steel is classically European, and this one does a very good job of achieving excellent toughness without sacrificing too much hardness.
1000009124.jpg


1722888132838.png


This first one was a little sharper, but with more variance. I think it actually represents the overall performance better due to lower standard deviation for the edges taken individually. Therefore, this one goes on the chart. I suspect the variances we see are partially due to grind, and partially due to the sloppy coating.

Date8/5/248/5/248/5/248/5/248/5/24
BladeDovoSuper Platinum
GermanyFebruary 14, 2023
Shaves0P3P6P9P12
LocationTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/Bottom
MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2424242020
Std. Dev.810101114
Median F (g)58.5636771.570
Mean F (g) Top6673758081
Mean F (g) Btm5154596258
Mean F (g)5863677169
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Av. Adj. F (g) Top8089929798
Av. Adj. F (g) Btm6366727671
Median adj. F (g)7177828785
Mean adj. F (g)7177828784

I have a hypothesis that perhaps the dull bottom edge variances we see are due to the simple fact that blades are often stored and handled top-up because top-up is right-side-up and makes it easier to read labels and more aesthetically pleasing. During production, bottom edges are more likely to be closer to floors, people, machines, and so on. They probably get bumped, dropped, scuffed, and otherwise changed on the bottom edge most of the time. It is easy to measure an honest coin's tendency to land with the same side up after a flip for the simple reason that side gets more airtime. I don't see why we shouldn't expect an incredibly simple explanation for the trend in variances, either. I don't have any good way to test or verify this, unfortunately.

Date8/5/248/5/248/5/248/5/248/5/24
BladeDovoSuper Platinum
GermanyFebruary 14, 2023
Shaves0P3P6P9P12
LocationTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/Bottom
MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2424242020
Std. Dev.6471210
Median F (g)5666.574.571.572
Mean F (g) Top5769778581
Mean F (g) Btm5465696568
Mean F (g)5567737574
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Av. Adj. F (g) Top69849410399
Av. Adj. F (g) Btm6679847982
Median adj. F (g)6881918788
Mean adj. F (g)6882899191

I put the sharper one on the big chart.
1722888659249.png


This blade is very expensive, and is not especially consistent, but I am not going to say not to try it. I think there might be something to the combination of excellent even grind and a more resilient steel. For shavers who like milder blades, and have big budgets to buy lots of expensive blades that don't stay sharp for very long, it might be worth trying.

Blade Sharpness Test Index

Complete Data and Media Calibration
 
I got the Chinese White Label Extra Stainless blade that is suspected to be the stock for the mysterious PolSilver Extra Stainless Blade. I comes in plain packaging, but they will customize it for you if you want. The one in their ad had identical printing to the PolSilver Extra Stainless, but mine doesn't have any printing. They will customize printing for you if you order a lot of them.

1000009125.jpg


1000009126.jpg


It looks exactly like the PolSilver Extra Stainless. The grind, the distal coating, even the belt chatter proximal to the primary bevel are the same. It is fairly similar to the Known PPI PolSilver Super Iridium in grind, but that one has an even coating and lacks the proximal belt chatter scratches.
1000009128.jpg


After testing, it looks extremely similar to both PolSilvers. The diagonal wear marks resemble the PPI blade, and the worn bevel resembles the PolSIlver ES.
1000009132.jpg


Now for the fun part.

1722901329352.png


The Chinese white label blade is sharper and more durable than any of the PolSilvers or Wizamets tested. Of course it is. Also, it most closely resembles the known PPI Polsilver SI in metal wear. Of course it does. We certainly aren't going to dismiss the rumors that the PolSilver ES is a counterfeit made from the White Label ES, but I don't think we proved the rumor either. Still, this isn't good news for people who have the PolSilver ES. I can say that the no matter what, the Polsilver ES is not an inferior copy. You can always go and buy the White Label ES if you want to pay a fair price a good blade of known origin.

I have a bunch of vintage PolSilver and Wizamet blades from Poland and Russia on the way, so maybe we can learn something else in another test.

Date8/5/248/5/248/5/248/5/248/5/24
BladeWhite LabelExtra Stainless
China~2024
Shaves0P3P6P9P12
LocationTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/BottomTop/Bottom
MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements3030303030
Std. Dev.95565
Median F (g)52.54946.55251.5
Mean F (g) Top6153515354
Mean F (g) Btm4646444749
Mean F (g)5450485052
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Av. Adj. F (g) Top7564626566
Av. Adj. F (g) Btm5657545860
Median adj. F (g)6460576363
Mean adj. F (g)6660586263

1722901544026.png


Blade Sharpness Test Index

Complete Data and Media Calibration
 

Flanders

Stupid sexy Wing Nut
That blade looks like they actually tried to reverse engineer the Polsilver SI, the Polsiliver ES looks more like a totally different blade. I am both impressed and not ready to pick out seasoning for my hat! I still wouldn't rule out the ES being something other than CN manufacturing, but then the business case looks a lot worse. If they were stuffing these blades that you found into fake packaging, I don't think anybody would have thought to question the legitimacy. I have my pack of ES blades here and will be trying one soon.
 
Here is a new Dorco Titan. This is the big head one and it was produced in Vietnam in 2021. It has the new and current logo. It was generously provided by @WVShaver who took the pictures of the tuck.

It has a nicely printed wrapper.

1000009027.jpg


1000009186.jpg



1000009187.jpg


There is a normal Julian date on the tuck. Some of them are more cryptic, but nothing that stops ChatGPT from cracking the code.
1000009188.jpg


1000009029.jpg


It has a 2-stage grind with a fine even bevel and polished honing right near the edge. The coating is thick and uneven. I can't tell from pictures or measurements if this is made to the same specification as any of the others. It is pretty similar to them, but not similar enough for me to draw a conclusion.
1000009030.jpg


After the test, the coating is worn and we see some small chipping at the edge.
1000009031.jpg


It is sharp and very durable and consistent. I see some of them for under $5/100 online, but I am not sure if those are the same thing because there are reports of fakes and some inconsistencies in the blades I have measured. If you can actually get one like this for $5/100, it is quite a bargain. You may need to do your homework and be lucky to do it, though.

It doesn't match any of the other Dorcos tested well enough to say it is the same spec as one of them, but it is close enough to the STP300 and ST300 I measured that it could be. The STP300 had more distal honing, but the ST300 was similar to this one and has a similar sharpness curve as it wears. This one was significantly sharper than ST300, but maybe it is just batch variation. None of the Dorcos measured seem very consistent, but we will have a better idea about the bigger picture when more of them have been tested.
1723144159870.png


Information Summary:

Date8/3/248/3/248/3/248/3/248/3/24
BladeDorco TitanNew EdgeNew LogoVietnamNovember 14, 2021
Shaves0P3P6P9P12
LocationBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/TopBottom/Top
MediumStren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22Stren 6 .22
Dulling SubstrateNewPaperPaperPaperPaper
Measurements2424242424
Std. Dev.87465
Median F (g)5352.5525152.5
Mean F (g) Btm5856555352
Mean F (g) Top4551514953
Mean F (g)5253535153
BESS Adj. Factor1.221.221.221.221.22
Av. Adj. F (g) Bt7168676564
Av. Adj. F (g) Top5562625964
Median adj. F (g)6564636264
Mean adj. F (g)6365646264

1723144214620.png



Blade Sharpness Test Index

Complete Data and Media Calibration
 
The Titans came from Connaughts a few months ago but they seem to be sold out at the moment. I had about $5 in them for 100 so figured I’d give them a shot. They were already sold out of the Primes or I would have grabbed those as well.

On my face with 1 blade and 1 shave the Titan felt fairly sharp but I don’t remember it being as smooth as my favorite Russian blades. I’m glad to see it’s quite consistent across the shaves and I’m impressed.
 
Top Bottom