Agh!! You're killing me Gigster! Your pics aren't working....
Adoration admiration
- Thread starter Gigster
- Start date
His PB account got overloaded. I suffered the same thing last month.
- Thread starter
- #23
Links are fixed on previous page. Sorry about that. 
Gorgeous. I knew someone would make something beautiful out of that handle when I saw it go from the Bay (assuming it's the same one). Well done!!
That's a keeper indeed! Really fine.
The pics look awesome! You've got one heck of a brush there gig!
Nice job. Fine looking brush. 
Servus!
Man, that's a nice brush! I like how the short knot works well with the long handle. Shame something like that isn't available anymore. Hope you get many years of srvice from that one!
Man, that's a nice brush! I like how the short knot works well with the long handle. Shame something like that isn't available anymore. Hope you get many years of srvice from that one!
Fantastic looking brush!! 
Beautiful...
What did you use to polish after the sanding and painting. I have a clear handle every ready I would like to get into this kind of shape.
Reagrds
Dave
What did you use to polish after the sanding and painting. I have a clear handle every ready I would like to get into this kind of shape.
Reagrds
Dave
- Thread starter
- #31
very good to know I have a Made Rite with a similar handle Im about to restore. As per the paint, i understand you paint it on the squeegee it off. Do you sand the remainder or do you use some kind of paint thinner to get it off and then sand and polish? or do you use the flitz (polish I presume) to rub the remainder off?
Regards
Dave
Regards
Dave
Here's a useful thread for you. One by none other than Gigster himself.
- Thread starter
- #34
The information in the link catherix posted works well. . . .for me.
But I'll add a little more info. . . .It all depends on the condition of the branding (i.e., depth) and the area around the branding (i.e., indentations, scratches, imperfections, etc.).
I have sanded before painting and I have painted and then sanded and polished.
This particular handle, I sanded first and then painted. Once I let the paint cure (24 hours), I hit it with polish. Three reasons behind this. One, the branding was intact. Two, the upper portion of the handle required very little sanding. Three, there was a raised area just before the "A" in Adoration and before the "M" in MADE. These raised areas were due too much pressure being applied to the hot, branding stamp during manufacture. The sanding relieved the raised areas, so I could ensure a more level surface.
Whether I paint before or after sanding/polishing, I'm very cautious and gentle with the branding.
Hope this helps.
The information in the link catherix posted works well. . . .for me.
It all depends on the condition of the branding (i.e., depth) and the area around the branding (i.e., indentations, scratches, imperfections, etc.).
I have sanded before painting and I have painted and then sanded and polished.
This particular handle, I sanded first and then painted. Once I let the paint cure (24 hours), I hit it with polish. Three reasons behind this. One, the branding was intact. Two, the upper portion of the handle required very little sanding. Three, there was a raised area just before the "A" in Adoration and before the "M" in MADE. These raised areas were due too much pressure being applied to the hot, branding stamp during manufacture. The sanding relieved the raised areas, so I could ensure a more level surface.
Whether I paint before or after sanding/polishing, I'm very cautious and gentle with the branding.
Hope this helps.
All good to know, I steamed the knot out last night which worked great however it seems to have affected the text on the bottom of the handle. I thought it was cut in but it seems as though it was not nearly as deep as I thought. The steam process made the text very hard to see and made the small indents very shallow. Its almost as if it melted the bottom of the knot every so slightly and the plastic filled in the letters. I was upset to see this when I removed it from the steam. I was quite looking forward to getting the letters to pop like yours. I will be starting a thread this evening with pictures so everyone can see the work. The strange thing is that the steam did not affect the handle in any other way. Unfortunately I may just sand the remaining lettering off as it is very hard to see and may look better clean. I am heading to an antique show this weekend and plan to get some more handles to restore. I really like the look of the clear acrylic stuff so that is what I will be looking for. I will be exclusively drilling out my knots from here on out.
Regards
Dave
I would never use heat (either steam or dry heat) to remove a knot from a vintage handle...at least not one that I remotely cared about. The older plastics, celluloid, Bakelite, Catalin, etc. have a very low melting point and are very prone to the type of damage you've described. Some guys have used steam successfully with modern handles, but I'm going to play it safe and use mechanical means (drilling, sanding, Dremel tool, etc.) to remove a knot from any brush I'm restoring.
too cool
Great job!
- Thread starter
- #39
+ Eleventy-billion.
Never tried the steam and dry heat methods. The failure percentage seems too high. lol
Lovely indeed!
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