Unfortunately, the illuminated portion of the reticle of the Viper PST 2-10x32 is not daylight bright, even at the highest setting.
Yep, a little over 50 years when a fresh butter bar in the USAF, training to be a weapons controller, and that meant sitting on a radar scope and guiding an interceptor, ie the weapon, to his moving aerial target, we learned quickly that the order of the day was to keep the interceptor just below the transonic speed, specifying a usual mach number to make computations easier. Go supersonic if close enough and needed it, but stay out of the transonic range due to stability and buffeting issues.That sounds like the ticket. In general, long range shooters want to keep their bullets supersonic all the way to the target because of the instability that occurs when just about any bullet becomes unstable as it crosses the transonic range. Likewise, you don’t want to use super sonic .22LR ammo to shoot long distance because of the instability crossing the transonic barrier. Rather lob a slow.22 with accuracy that an erratic.22 with more velocity.
Bump! @OkieStubble , when you gonna shoot that thing?
Ok, I have finally found a receipe.
13.5 grains of 8208 behind a 160 grain Hornady round nose bullet. I can't find anyone who has these bullets in stock.
It will take a fast twist barrel to stabilize a bullet this long and it probably will act like a full metal jacket. E.g. It won't expand.
I'll keep looking.
B.C.
You might want to take a hard look at Meopta glass. They made lenses for Ziess for years and may still make them. They use a proprietary lens coating with their own scopes that boasts one of the highest light transmission numbers in the business. I have two or three of their scopes and can honestly say that they are stunning. I would put clarity and light transmission on a level with the likes of Hensoldt and US Optics. I rate Meopta above Steiner and Swarovski. Just my opinion.
A couple of things about glass.
If you are going to go subsonic and limit your shots to 200 yards or less, you might want to consider staying in a lower power range. The concern is the "light pencil" (yes, I know it's actually a cone) that exits the scope. The bigger this cylinder of light is, the easier it is to find it with your eye. This is especially important when you are in a hurry. You can calculate the size of the light pencil by dividing the objective lens diameter by the power. A 40mm objective on a 3-9 scope at 6 power (40 divided by 6) is just under 7mm. This is probably a little bigger than the widest opening of the iris of your eye. Young people can get 7mm but this number shrinks with age. When the light pencil is bigger than the pupil of your eye, all the light outside the pupil is lost. On the other hand, the bigger the light pencil, the easier it is to find with your eye and the easier it is to see the whole image (this works well if you are in a hurry). Generally speaking, the higher you crank the power, the closer you must get to the scope to see through it (less eye relief) and the less tolerant it is of variation from the 'sweet spot'. I'm a varmint hunter and that means I live with huge, heavy scopes at high power (usually around 25X). Cranked up that high, it is sheer folly to attempt quick or easy target acquisition. I have found while using astonomical telescopes as well as telescopic sights, that for me, an exit pupil of 2mm is just about the bottom limit I can deal with. On the up side, at 2mm, astigmatism isn't an issue.
Second thought is regarding light charges of slow burning powder.
I read the posts on the Grendel forum regarding light charges of 8208 and in the past, have read of pressure excursions with this type of loading. The theory I find most plausible is that the powder lays in the bottom of the case, so that when the primer ignites the powder, it ignites the whole surface, rather than just a small area at the rear like it would with a full case. Trail Boss is a high bulk powder that is reputed to avoid this pitfall. I have no idea how probable an extreme pressure excursion would be, but as a safety measure, I have avoided doing that for years, even to the point of not loading slow powders below the starting load in the manual I was using.
I own QuickLoad and will try plugging in some numbers to see what it spits out.
Take a look at Meopta. It's good glass.
Bill.
I forgot that you already have a stash of factory ammo. You just need to get a minimalist reloading set up.Your best bet is to get on the notification list of several on line ammo sources. Some of the brands are obviously much more expensive than others. But one could justify the higher cost as a way to obtain brass, if one reloaded.
I forgot that you already have a stash of factory ammo. You just need to get a minimalist reloading set up.
While I had suggested the Lyman reloading manual, you might consider the Hornady manual since you are considering reloading the Grendel.
@OkieStubble , have you received your suppressor yet?
I have not shot my 6.5 Grendel AR in quite a while now. Last few trips to the range I simply took the little CZ 527 in that caliber along. Gun is lighter, better trigger, more accurate, and easier chasing brass.