This contribution addresses some issues which I literally stumbled upon when I looked into the composition/ingredients of the IK shave cream (Crème a Raser Hydratante in the metal tube). I considered posting this a review but it is not so much a review of the performance of the product as it is a commentary on its composition/properties. I do consider this to be more than simple curiosity, especially for those who may have allergies or sensitivities to certain ingredients, and for those of us who rely on labeling to guide us in our choices of products.
I purchased a tube of IK shave cream and after a period of daily use, I found it to have a considerable skin drying effect. When I looked at the product composition, I was quite surpriesd to find that the ingredient listing on the tube was distinctly different from that on the packaging box. As you know, although manufacturers are not required to specify % composition for each ingredient, they must list the ingredients of a product in the order of their relative amounts ---1st ingredient = greatest amount, and last ingredient = lowest amount. On the tube the primary ingredient (after water) is stearic acid, is a long chain fatty acid that is a natural product found in tallow, and tallow-based soaps. Typically, because of the long chain "fatty" portion of the molecule, fatty acid soaps tend to be kinder (less drying) on skin than detergent based products. In contrast, on the package box the primary listed ingredient is glycerin, an organic, water-soluble emollient/lubricant/moisturizer. Glycerin is followed by sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) a.k.a. sodium laureth sulfate and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), a widely used anionic detergent. Since these two ingredient lists are so markedly different, I inquired of IK. My inquiry:
Dear Sir/Madam:
Recently, I purchased a tube of your Crème a Raser Hydratante (Lot N-8C43) from the company "xxxxxxxxxxx" here in the USA. I have noticed that the Ingredients as specified on the box/carton are different from the ingredients listed on the metal product tube itself. The Lot number on the outside of the paper box, however, agrees with the lot number on the crimp of the metal tube.
On the box: Aqua/water, Glycerin, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myristyl sulfate, PEG-7, glyceryl cocoate, sodium cetyl sulfate, etc.
On the tube label: aqua/water, stearic acid, polysorbate-60, sorbitol, polyquaternium-10, triethanolamine, PEG-75, shea butter glycerides, etc.
Liquid paraffin and lanolin are also listed as being ingredients on the tube label, but are not listed on the box label.
I do not raise the inquiry in the manner of a complaint, but only to determine what I am using on my face to shave. I note also that Glycerin is listed as a principal ingredient per the box label, while it is not listed at all on the tube label.
Thank you for your time, and I look forward to your reply and explanation of these differences.
I received this reply from IK:
Dear Sir,
First we would like to thank you for your e-mail..
Please find below the ingredient list regarding the shaving cream:
Ingredients: Aqua (WATER), Sodium Lauryl Sulfate & Sodium Myristyl Sulfate & Sodium Cetyl Sulfate & Sodium Stearyl Sulfate, Laureth-10, Glycerin, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (SWEET ALMOND) oil & Butyrospermum Parkii (SHEA) Butter & Glycerin & Cetearyl Glucoside & Phenoxyethanol & Glyceryl Stearate SE & Xanthan Gum & Benzoic Acid & Dehydroacetic Acid & Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, Parfum, Butyrospermum Parkii (SHEA) Butter, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hexyl Cinnamal, Geraniol
We stay at your disposal for any further information you may need.
Best Regards,
Ariane Dubroca
Coordinatrice Logistique
Institut Karite Paris
75008 Paris
IK's reply provides yet another third ingredient listing that does not match with either their box or their tube ingredient listings. In their reply, IK lists the principal ingredient of the cream not as glycerin (box) and not as stearic acid (tube), but sodium lauryl sulfate (SDS), which was the 3rd listed ingredient on the box label. SDS is widely used in liquid dish/hand cleaners, deodorant bars, and laundry detergents because it is a very effective detergent/surfactant in removing oily grime and B/O . It is also well recognized as being harsh respective to removing beneficial skin oils, and as a skin irritant. The IK reply also reduced glycerin to the 7th ingredient, thereby appearing to largely negate its potential counterbalancing emollient effect vis a vis the SDS. Lanolin is now not listed at all, and Shea butter comes in below fragrance (parfum) and just above preservatives.
Performance-wise, the drying effect on skin, especially in winter, is precisely as one could expect using an oil-stripping SDS-based material. I have not yet followed-up with IK to further clarify the labeling confusion. No, I am not an attorney, and no, I am not pursuing any avenue of 'product liability' here. I just think it's important that we know what we're using, and that package labels be accurate. If the label lists glycerin as the #1 ingredient, then that's what you should expect to receive. I just wonder how many of us have used IK cream and then reasoned that our experience, favorable or unfavorable, was related to the glycerin content of the product, and then went on to either seek or avoid glycerin containing products. The same applies to those looking for fatty-acid soaps like stearate/tallowate, as in fact was requested in this Forum just recently by Matt555. And ditto for those looking for Shea butter in more than just trivial amounts. And then, of course there's the practical question of whether a shave cream based on a common household detergent should command a premium. I guess the bottom line here is, as always, caveat emptor.
I purchased a tube of IK shave cream and after a period of daily use, I found it to have a considerable skin drying effect. When I looked at the product composition, I was quite surpriesd to find that the ingredient listing on the tube was distinctly different from that on the packaging box. As you know, although manufacturers are not required to specify % composition for each ingredient, they must list the ingredients of a product in the order of their relative amounts ---1st ingredient = greatest amount, and last ingredient = lowest amount. On the tube the primary ingredient (after water) is stearic acid, is a long chain fatty acid that is a natural product found in tallow, and tallow-based soaps. Typically, because of the long chain "fatty" portion of the molecule, fatty acid soaps tend to be kinder (less drying) on skin than detergent based products. In contrast, on the package box the primary listed ingredient is glycerin, an organic, water-soluble emollient/lubricant/moisturizer. Glycerin is followed by sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) a.k.a. sodium laureth sulfate and sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), a widely used anionic detergent. Since these two ingredient lists are so markedly different, I inquired of IK. My inquiry:
Dear Sir/Madam:
Recently, I purchased a tube of your Crème a Raser Hydratante (Lot N-8C43) from the company "xxxxxxxxxxx" here in the USA. I have noticed that the Ingredients as specified on the box/carton are different from the ingredients listed on the metal product tube itself. The Lot number on the outside of the paper box, however, agrees with the lot number on the crimp of the metal tube.
On the box: Aqua/water, Glycerin, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myristyl sulfate, PEG-7, glyceryl cocoate, sodium cetyl sulfate, etc.
On the tube label: aqua/water, stearic acid, polysorbate-60, sorbitol, polyquaternium-10, triethanolamine, PEG-75, shea butter glycerides, etc.
Liquid paraffin and lanolin are also listed as being ingredients on the tube label, but are not listed on the box label.
I do not raise the inquiry in the manner of a complaint, but only to determine what I am using on my face to shave. I note also that Glycerin is listed as a principal ingredient per the box label, while it is not listed at all on the tube label.
Thank you for your time, and I look forward to your reply and explanation of these differences.
I received this reply from IK:
Dear Sir,
First we would like to thank you for your e-mail..
Please find below the ingredient list regarding the shaving cream:
Ingredients: Aqua (WATER), Sodium Lauryl Sulfate & Sodium Myristyl Sulfate & Sodium Cetyl Sulfate & Sodium Stearyl Sulfate, Laureth-10, Glycerin, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (SWEET ALMOND) oil & Butyrospermum Parkii (SHEA) Butter & Glycerin & Cetearyl Glucoside & Phenoxyethanol & Glyceryl Stearate SE & Xanthan Gum & Benzoic Acid & Dehydroacetic Acid & Polyaminopropyl Biguanide, Parfum, Butyrospermum Parkii (SHEA) Butter, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Hexyl Cinnamal, Geraniol
We stay at your disposal for any further information you may need.
Best Regards,
Ariane Dubroca
Coordinatrice Logistique
Institut Karite Paris
75008 Paris
IK's reply provides yet another third ingredient listing that does not match with either their box or their tube ingredient listings. In their reply, IK lists the principal ingredient of the cream not as glycerin (box) and not as stearic acid (tube), but sodium lauryl sulfate (SDS), which was the 3rd listed ingredient on the box label. SDS is widely used in liquid dish/hand cleaners, deodorant bars, and laundry detergents because it is a very effective detergent/surfactant in removing oily grime and B/O . It is also well recognized as being harsh respective to removing beneficial skin oils, and as a skin irritant. The IK reply also reduced glycerin to the 7th ingredient, thereby appearing to largely negate its potential counterbalancing emollient effect vis a vis the SDS. Lanolin is now not listed at all, and Shea butter comes in below fragrance (parfum) and just above preservatives.
Performance-wise, the drying effect on skin, especially in winter, is precisely as one could expect using an oil-stripping SDS-based material. I have not yet followed-up with IK to further clarify the labeling confusion. No, I am not an attorney, and no, I am not pursuing any avenue of 'product liability' here. I just think it's important that we know what we're using, and that package labels be accurate. If the label lists glycerin as the #1 ingredient, then that's what you should expect to receive. I just wonder how many of us have used IK cream and then reasoned that our experience, favorable or unfavorable, was related to the glycerin content of the product, and then went on to either seek or avoid glycerin containing products. The same applies to those looking for fatty-acid soaps like stearate/tallowate, as in fact was requested in this Forum just recently by Matt555. And ditto for those looking for Shea butter in more than just trivial amounts. And then, of course there's the practical question of whether a shave cream based on a common household detergent should command a premium. I guess the bottom line here is, as always, caveat emptor.
