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Don't touch the knife

Been here in florida 18 months, never used the DW, wash everything by hand, but my larger knives will always be washed and dried by me after using.
 
I tried to explain to my wife and kids about how to treat a knife but I can't seem to get through to them either. I have a mixture of German and Japanese knives that my wife enjoys using because they are nice and sharp. At first she was afraid of them (which I liked) but not so much anymore. The only ones she didn't destroy were the much larger ones that she was still a bit leery of. She'll keep the knives out of the dishwasher but I just can't get her to stop cutting on ceramic plates with them. She even passed them out as steak knives when we had friends over for dinner. So I get to watch someone completely destroy the edge I spent an hour putting on the knife as we ate dinner. Sure we have about a dozen steak knives sitting there for that but the Japanese knives cut so much better so why not grab them instead. We have lots of cutting boards as well that she can use. I got tired of the small chips in the blade and fighting to keep them sharp like I like them. I'm the one who sharpens them so it ticked me off to find them dull (by my standards) every time I used them. To her they're just a tool like grabbing a screwdriver out of the tool box.

After explaining to her what a ceramic plate does to the edge and seeing her do it again and again I finally gave up and abandoned those knives for their use. I bought some really high end hand made Japanese knives for myself that I keep in a separate drawer. Her and the kids can use the other ones and I'll stop trying to keep them razor sharp like I used to do.
 
To her they're just a tool like grabbing a screwdriver out of the tool box.

That's a whole separate issue! I explained to my wife that my screwdrivers are NOT paint can openers, chisels, or any sort of prying tool. Either she listened, or I made the garage so dangerous that she can't get to them, either way, it stopped.
 
Some nice looking burls there, but I saw the prices and my jaw dropped. I have a friend that makes custom vape boxes (something to do with vaping, or e-cigarettes, I don't know, I never really paid attention) who works with burls and I can get off-cuts for free. I probably won't have my hands on any for a few months, though. If you're still looking by then, shoot me a PM. Otherwise, all I have to offer is walnut, maple, cherry, ash, and white oak. If you would like to go the hardwood route, I'd be happy to help you out with some blanks from my off-cuts (if you're CONUS).

I don't think you need anything stabilized beyond the point of the wood be dried sufficiently (10-12%). Once you sculpt your pieces from the blank, you can apply a finish or simple oil, and once that finish is cured, their should be no problems, provided you don't leave it soaking in water or put it through the dishwasher.

The raw wood is not as costly as the slabs that are stabilized under pressure becoming the matrix of a synthetic product- drying wood is not the same stabilizing that I am referring to. Sure epoxy on the tang to seal it will help but at the end of the day its still going to absorb water after the surface coatings wear. Another less expensive option would be to use acrylic or faux ivory slabs.
 
I tried to explain to my wife and kids about how to treat a knife but I can't seem to get through to them either. I have a mixture of German and Japanese knives that my wife enjoys using because they are nice and sharp. At first she was afraid of them (which I liked) but not so much anymore. The only ones she didn't destroy were the much larger ones that she was still a bit leery of. She'll keep the knives out of the dishwasher but I just can't get her to stop cutting on ceramic plates with them. She even passed them out as steak knives when we had friends over for dinner. So I get to watch someone completely destroy the edge I spent an hour putting on the knife as we ate dinner. Sure we have about a dozen steak knives sitting there for that but the Japanese knives cut so much better so why not grab them instead. We have lots of cutting boards as well that she can use. I got tired of the small chips in the blade and fighting to keep them sharp like I like them. I'm the one who sharpens them so it ticked me off to find them dull (by my standards) every time I used them. To her they're just a tool like grabbing a screwdriver out of the tool box.

After explaining to her what a ceramic plate does to the edge and seeing her do it again and again I finally gave up and abandoned those knives for their use. I bought some really high end hand made Japanese knives for myself that I keep in a separate drawer. Her and the kids can use the other ones and I'll stop trying to keep them razor sharp like I used to do.

+1

wife and mother-in-law both see knives as generic tools. they complain about the need for them to be sharpened but don't seem to understand why they get dull so fast. then again, using a sharp paring knife slice up your dinner on your plate...every night. i won't be spending too much time beyond a basic edge.

don't even start me on dropping a dirty knife in the sink or into the dishwasher....:blush:
 
Also good luck with the repair and please post up pics of your progress Please ..

I heard Ouch was PIFFING a knife!! I'm in! :lol:
Crap if that was true and I won that would be the best knife I ever had lol considering almost all of my knives I got are from the dollar store that I try to regrind for a better edge ..It works pretty good for a dollar store blade but since I found a great deal on a Victorinox Fibrox and I will never turn back to dollar store blades..
 
My wife and daughter have both had "the lesson" speach from me from time to time. Happy to report nothing as bad as your end-result took place. :bored: Bought my wife a small damascus pairing and chef for Xmas, NOW she understands :thumbup1:
 
The raw wood is not as costly as the slabs that are stabilized under pressure becoming the matrix of a synthetic product- drying wood is not the same stabilizing that I am referring to. Sure epoxy on the tang to seal it will help but at the end of the day its still going to absorb water after the surface coatings wear. Another less expensive option would be to use acrylic or faux ivory slabs.

Can anyone who knows wood explain the difference between stabilized wood and dry wood ?
I had been thinking of using a piece of wood from my garden.
what do you think of deer horn.
But acrylic or faux ivory sounds like a option.


dfoulk said:
...ceramic plate does to the edge...

Oh shudder, the feel and sound of that is unbearable.
 
Can anyone who knows wood explain the difference between stabilized wood and dry wood ?
I had been thinking of using a piece of wood from my garden.
what do you think of deer horn.

My understanding, or what I gather from that site, is that their dried blanks are impregnated with some finish/sealer/chemical to seal it so that it does not absorb moisture and hence does not warp/crack. Having made a number of kitchen items that routinely get wet (cutting boards, salad tongs), I stand behind my statement that this is not necessary. It may make the item more durable to longer exposure to liquid, however if you're just washing them, you can get a protective finish from a number of products (penetrative curing or non-curing oils, shellac, CA, epoxy, etc). I would just keep it oiled with mineral oil and call it good.

You're not going to want to use wood from your garden unless you're positive that it is dry. And dry in terms of woodworking usually means in the 10-12% for this application. Typically, for air-drying, you're looking at 12 months (rule of thumb, but varies on climate and species) per 1 inch of thickness, after initial milling of the tree, in order for it to reach that point. You'll need to make sure that while it's drying, you have adequate airflow around the wood. I purchase air-dried lumber that my sawyer stacks in a pole barn for 2+ years, and even then, it's usually around 14%, but once milled, is workable after a couple weeks in my shop. You can pick up a moisture meter for $15 at Harbor Freight (its one of their few good tools). If it's a small piece, like for this knife handle, you can probably have it good to go in a couple months. Be aware that wood shrinks as it dries, so you don't want to start shaping it to final size until it's dry.

People make art and turnings from deer horn quite often. I've seen it turned on a lathe much like wood is. However, I have no experience in that field, but I bet Google could get you some good information.
 
I'm the same way with my vintage cast iron cookware. There's no quicker way to tick me off than to touch my 100 plus year old cast iron when I say to leave it alone. Thankfully I don't have any expensive knives to get ruined yet.
 
The difference between the knife handle and the cutting board and salad tongs is that the wood is just against wood or nothing else. It will expand and contract at the same rate or near enough to it. With the knife you have the rivets and the blade itself that the wood will expand at a faster rate eventually working the rivets free. If you can keep the finish up (IE oiled/waxed regularly) it won't move much. Also not letting it sit wet or you know others won't dish-wash it or leave it in the sink, non-stabilized wood should work fine.

Buying a set of stabilized pre-cut knife scales are usually cheaper than blocks and it is one less cut you have to make if you're thinking of that route.

Places will stabilize wood for you. I know K&G charges by the pound but the wood needs to be dried first (9%).

So many options!
 
If you can keep the finish up (IE oiled/waxed regularly) it won't move much. Also not letting it sit wet or you know others won't dish-wash it or leave it in the sink, non-stabilized wood should work fine.

This is key. You can expect the seasonal movement of a 1"-wide blank to be on the order of around 0.005". Don't keep it oiled, submerge it in water and let it soak, and you're up around 0.02 (1/32") which will indeed present some issues over time.

Typically the people who spend the time or money on this venture maintain their tools. However, the spouses/children of these people are the wildcards.
 
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UGH!!! :tongue_sm:tongue_sm:tongue_sm

Fortunately, my wife has cut herself using 'our' best knives, so these get left alone.

My solution was to purchase a ton of inexpensive colored knives that can go in the dishwasher. Easy to tell those from the ones that should not go in the dishwasher.

Your best bet is to find someone who can replace the handle.
 
My solution was to purchase a ton of inexpensive colored knives that can go in the dishwasher. .

Are they the Kuhn Rikon non-stick colored knives? I love those. They come nice and sharp out of the package, nothing sticks to them, and they hold an edge quite a long time. And at $5-10 per parking knife, I think the larger are around $15, they're plenty affordable.
 
sounds like a custom rosewood or teak handle is in order.

Send it off, then present the bill to the perpetrator.

Will be an expensive lesson for someone and one not easily forgotten
 
I found that mentioning what some of my knives cost would pretty quickly stop anyone from touching them, and that they are shave-sharp, stinky, carbon steel.:laugh:

I had a couple of customs with stabilized burl handles, it was nice material, I recommend it.
 
sounds like a custom rosewood or teak handle is in order.

Send it off, then present the bill to the perpetrator.

Will be an expensive lesson for someone and one not easily forgotten

Hi Turtle how are you ?
What ? Why am I waking you up at such a late hour ?
Why yes, that is a suitcase I have with me. Thought I would spend some time living on your couch.
Well That present the bill to the perpetrator did not go over so well.

$odd couple.jpeg
 
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