Gillette Toggle Disassembly

Captain Murphy said:

So looking at the drawing, number 38 needs to be removed in order to separate the toggle contrivance from the lower portion of the razor. My guess is that this pin is made of soft brass, as likely previously mentioned in old threads. For this, I will use one of my small brass pin punches. To stabilize the razor and allow me to use both of my hands, I will place the toggle in my familiar fatboy wood clamp as shown below. The diameter of the handle is the same as the other adjustable models so it should work.
View attachment 520915View attachment 520914
Common sense tells me that it will be best to drive the pin out with the razor open as shown above so as to limit the amount of door rod that is protruding out of the end where the toggle pivots. In theory, this will prevent any bending of the door rod as a result of the blows.

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I was able to get the pin (not a screw, as mentioned a few posts up) out quite easily. I used a flat center-punch that was the exact same diameter as the pin, and tapped it with a light hammer. I had a jig similar to your wood block, but I drilled a hole in the center and drove the pin through that hole. I figured it would be better if the weight of the hammer blow was supported on both sides of the pin. That pin comes out, the toggle comes off, and there is a spring and a small ball bearing that clicks the toggle into place. That ball bearing is just begging to be launched out of the handle by the spring, into oblivion, so be careful.

From there, I twisted, turned, tugged and pushed every which way on the razor, and couldn't get any other pieces to even hint at moving. I even talked with Alex, and he scared me, so I chickened out and put it back together. No harm to the razor, but I wanted to quit while I was ahead...

My toggle would certainly benefit from a tear-down, so I'm anxious to see where to go from there.

Also, (and this is probably the blind leading the sighted) on my toggle, the pin had ridges on one side. I had to look carefully with a loupe to see them, but it seems that there is definitely a way that it is supposed to be driven.

So after I removed the pin (number 38) on the toggle part itself, pressure from the compression spring (number 84) forced the spherical detent (number 82) up and out of its housing. The small compression spring was kind of stuck down in the housing as a result of some crud so I just used a sickle probe to remove it. It came right out and had quite a bit of junk on it.

I know you gents are dying to see some photos but I am not ready to reveal them just yet I know, THE SUSPENSE!

chamm said:

I was able to get the pin (not a screw, as mentioned a few posts up) out quite easily. I used a flat center-punch that was the exact same diameter as the pin, and tapped it with a light hammer. I had a jig similar to your wood block, but I drilled a hole in the center and drove the pin through that hole. I figured it would be better if the weight of the hammer blow was supported on both sides of the pin. That pin comes out, the toggle comes off, and there is a spring and a small ball bearing that clicks the toggle into place. That ball bearing is just begging to be launched out of the handle by the spring, into oblivion, so be careful.

From there, I twisted, turned, tugged and pushed every which way on the razor, and couldn't get any other pieces to even hint at moving. I even talked with Alex, and he scared me, so I chickened out and put it back together. No harm to the razor, but I wanted to quit while I was ahead...

My toggle would certainly benefit from a tear-down, so I'm anxious to see where to go from there.

Click to expand...

chamm said:

Also, (and this is probably the blind leading the sighted) on my toggle, the pin had ridges on one side. I had to look carefully with a loupe to see them, but it seems that there is definitely a way that it is supposed to be driven.

Click to expand...

Thanks Chamm! ...Sorry, I didn't realize you had replied while I was typing

No worries. I'm sure I wasn't telling you anything you didn't know. I'm handy, but dangerous!

Cap your killin me man!

I am usually pretty good about photo documenting each little step but when I go to my workshop and get into my "groove" sometimes I forget to grab the camera....especially when I have my head wrapped around a design from the 50's

Out of all the tear down and build ups I've read, the lack of pics or video is really making me anxious!!

Guess Ill sit back and enjoy the show!

I don't think I will be doing a video on the Toggle. After seeing its complexity, I don't think it would be a good idea to toss it up on Youtube...we'd have broken, marred up Toggles all over the place The photos are forthcoming though! I wanted to post some links to a few old threads dealing with dysfunctional toggles and some attempts to remedy them. Here they are:

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/202215-Toggle-Adjustment-Ring

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/306400-Help-with-broken-Toggle-adjustment-dial

As you gentlemen can see from the drawings and photos of the Toggle, the handle section is strikingly similar to all other adjustable designs, except the bottom dials. There is the notorious indentation ring towards the bottom that holds the TTO knob in on the red-dot and regular production fatboys. I even whipped out my steel rule and measured the handle of the Toggle and compared it to an Executive and a couple fatboy handles, they're all the same length. After I measured the different handles, I went back to the drawings and patent information and did some more studying. I did all of this with the razor in my hand and I had a small suspicion that the so-called "seat element," as it is referred to in the patent information (or number 22) turned freely, which it did. After realizing that this piece turned freely, I decided that it worked the same way as the TTO knobs do on the regular fatboys in the sense that the indentation on the handle retains the part...kind of like a press-fitting. After coming to this conclusion, my next challenge was how to remove that! This is where I ran into complications....

No pressure Cap. Just a Toggle. Only worth a few hundred. No pressure.

Wait. Have you already done a bottom dial? If so you have ice water in your veins. Lol

StubbleOfSteel said:

No pressure Cap. Just a Toggle. Only worth a few hundred. No pressure.

Wait. Have you already done a bottom dial? If so you have ice water in your veins. Lol

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to the right buyer these things are worth a bunch! Have I already done a bottom dial???

Alright Gentlemen, before I kill everyone with anticipation, I will release the goods and explain everything after it has all soaked in Check it out!

I would be sweating bullets I'm glad you have the courage sir I couldn't do it .

cardsfan28 said:

I would be sweating bullets I'm glad you have the courage sir I couldn't do it .

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Anything is possible with the proper application of Badger & Blade!! [emoji3] ...now I just need to capture a badger and name him Felix so he can be my helper!

On a side note: when I was throwing around the idea of an OC Fatboy I was told that the adjusting of the baseplate would have to be similar to the toggle. Just something to stick in your head for future use.

I can just picture myself on the ground looking for that little ball bearing if I was to do this myself.

I've never seen a pic of a yeti or unicorn but I have now seen a Toggle disassembled. Captain Murphy, you truly have a PhD in Gillette.

Man, you could grown an ear of corn on that endcap!! Gross!!

imatabor said:

On a side note: when I was throwing around the idea of an OC Fatboy I was told that the adjusting of the baseplate would have to be similar to the toggle. Just something to stick in your head for future use.

Click to expand...

It's a wonder why Gillette never made an open comb adjustable. Then again, I think they built the solid bar razors for added comfort/less irritation, or something like that.