Pasting the case strop with ferric oxide is working well.
Because it's flat, there's no cupping and on the second shave the blade is settling in and has become smoother and sharper.
It could very well be that this way the blade can be maintained indefinitely in the case and only needs honing once in its lifetime.
I've thought about using chromium oxide too but that might cut too fast for daily use.
As far as the case hone goes, I guess it's completely superfluous now but I can see how lapping film overlaid on it could work though not sure whether 1u or 3u would be better.
Maybe 3u on the hone and chromium oxide on the strop, or 1u on the hone and ferric oxide on the strop?
In the meantime, I lapped the case hone on an Imperial set with a 600 grit synthetic and oiled it too, to see if that will refine its polishing power, but it may not be necessary at all since the blade's been through a full hone progression outside the case and is being maintained on ferric oxide.
Because it's flat, there's no cupping and on the second shave the blade is settling in and has become smoother and sharper.
It could very well be that this way the blade can be maintained indefinitely in the case and only needs honing once in its lifetime.
I've thought about using chromium oxide too but that might cut too fast for daily use.
As far as the case hone goes, I guess it's completely superfluous now but I can see how lapping film overlaid on it could work though not sure whether 1u or 3u would be better.
Maybe 3u on the hone and chromium oxide on the strop, or 1u on the hone and ferric oxide on the strop?
In the meantime, I lapped the case hone on an Imperial set with a 600 grit synthetic and oiled it too, to see if that will refine its polishing power, but it may not be necessary at all since the blade's been through a full hone progression outside the case and is being maintained on ferric oxide.
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