I would like to start a discussion topic about creating your own DIY Homemade shaving soap. There have been a few topics where there was some good information/discussions going, but unfortunately the topics were either removed, moved to an area where they were locked to the general members, or got lost in the archive.
Hopefully, this thread will allow people to discuss recipes, places to purchase the software/equipment, tips/tricks, scents, amounts, etc...
I will try to keep the first post updated with any recipes, or link to recipes, from this thread. If this gets rolling, we can categorize them by Hot Process, Cold Process, and then have a section just on scents. So everyone, lets post our recipe's, lessons learned, and advice.
Here are two very good threads to read up on:
Soapcalc and Miller Soap are two sites that are good resources for learning how to make soap.
Cold process soaps: Cold process soaps aren't heated after the lye is mixed in. The only heat used in the process is to melt the oils. CAUTION: Freshly made cold process soap "batter" is caustic until the soap is firm and saponification is complete, after 24 hours or so.
Hot process soaps are: Heat is applied to accelerate the process/reaction and allow a soap to be used within a few days to a week.
Both cold process and hot process have their benefits and drawbacks.
NOTE: We need to keep this to general discussion, and not turn this into a Hobbyist type thread, where people are trying to sell their soap, ideas or equipment. That will lead to this thread being removed.
When creating a recipe the soapcalc website can help you out tremendously - soapcalc.net
To test to see if your soap is complete, there seems to be two methods: 1) Zap test, where you take a small sample and put it to your tongue to see you get a zap like a 9V battery. If it zaps it needs longer cooking times. 2) Using a pH test strip to see if the pH is between 9.5 and 10.5 - appropriate for soap. Obviously, the test strip method will be more accurate.
Tips when using lye: 1) Do not use glass containers, as the heat can make them explode. 2) Pour the lye into the water. Pouring water onto lye could cause a volcano type eruption.
Cold Process Recipe's - Note: Links to post in this thread
Hot Process Recipe's - Note: Links to post in this thread
Scent Recipe's - Most recommendations I have seen state about 1oz total all scents per pound of base oils
Places to purchase software / hardware
NOTE: We need to keep this to general discussion, and not turn this into a Hobbyist type thread, where people are trying to sell their soap, ideas or equipment. That will lead to this thread being removed.
Moderator Note Due to the limitations of our Forum software, the OP is no longer able to update/edit this post. Please follow the thread for up-to-date information.
Hopefully, this thread will allow people to discuss recipes, places to purchase the software/equipment, tips/tricks, scents, amounts, etc...
I will try to keep the first post updated with any recipes, or link to recipes, from this thread. If this gets rolling, we can categorize them by Hot Process, Cold Process, and then have a section just on scents. So everyone, lets post our recipe's, lessons learned, and advice.
Here are two very good threads to read up on:
Soapcalc and Miller Soap are two sites that are good resources for learning how to make soap.
Cold process soaps: Cold process soaps aren't heated after the lye is mixed in. The only heat used in the process is to melt the oils. CAUTION: Freshly made cold process soap "batter" is caustic until the soap is firm and saponification is complete, after 24 hours or so.
Hot process soaps are: Heat is applied to accelerate the process/reaction and allow a soap to be used within a few days to a week.
Both cold process and hot process have their benefits and drawbacks.
NOTE: We need to keep this to general discussion, and not turn this into a Hobbyist type thread, where people are trying to sell their soap, ideas or equipment. That will lead to this thread being removed.
When creating a recipe the soapcalc website can help you out tremendously - soapcalc.net
To test to see if your soap is complete, there seems to be two methods: 1) Zap test, where you take a small sample and put it to your tongue to see you get a zap like a 9V battery. If it zaps it needs longer cooking times. 2) Using a pH test strip to see if the pH is between 9.5 and 10.5 - appropriate for soap. Obviously, the test strip method will be more accurate.
Tips when using lye: 1) Do not use glass containers, as the heat can make them explode. 2) Pour the lye into the water. Pouring water onto lye could cause a volcano type eruption.
Cold Process Recipe's - Note: Links to post in this thread
Hot Process Recipe's - Note: Links to post in this thread
- JBLA Vegan Recipe - Link to Recipe Post
- charles_r Tallow Recipe - Link to Recipe Post
- parihart Tallow Recipe - Link to Recipe Post
Scent Recipe's - Most recommendations I have seen state about 1oz total all scents per pound of base oils
- Vanilla Extract is an inexpensive way to get some scent in your soap
- 2/3 Lemon & Bergamot + 1/3 Rosemary
- Eucalyptus / Mint
- MdC type scent: 8 parts lavender, 5 parts rosemary, 1 part mint
Places to purchase software / hardware
- Macherey-Nagel pH Test Strips
- Essential Depot: KOH supplier that is fairly cheap.
- Columbus Foods: Base Oils and Supplies
- Saffire Blue: Canadian Site for essential oils and soap making supplies
- iHerb: Site for essential oils
- WFmed: Site for essential oils - fairly prices
- New Directions Aromatics: Site for essential oils
NOTE: We need to keep this to general discussion, and not turn this into a Hobbyist type thread, where people are trying to sell their soap, ideas or equipment. That will lead to this thread being removed.
Moderator Note Due to the limitations of our Forum software, the OP is no longer able to update/edit this post. Please follow the thread for up-to-date information.
Last edited by a moderator:
) I have never done this as you can tell.
