Just wondering...is it better to shave with a less aggressive razor with a sharp blade (e.g. Feather), or a more aggressive razor with a more forgiving blade (e.g. Derby)??? Or is this a YMMV scenario???
Less Aggressive Razor with a Super Sharp Blade, or Vice Versa?
- Thread starter tophercarlton
- Start date
I tend to put sharper blades in everything. I get my best smoothest shaves from aggressive razors with sharp blades in them but still love my Techs with Feathers in them.
I never understood the use of blades like the Derby, when I first started I use a single Derby blade then threw out the whole pack.
I think of it along the line of cooking knives. If you keep your knife sharp it will cut easier & smoother but when it is dull you end up pushing harder and increase the chance of cutting yourself.
I never understood the use of blades like the Derby, when I first started I use a single Derby blade then threw out the whole pack.
I think of it along the line of cooking knives. If you keep your knife sharp it will cut easier & smoother but when it is dull you end up pushing harder and increase the chance of cutting yourself.
Topher,
I understand your question completely! Periodically I'll use my Fatboy turned way up (7 or more) with a Red IP and when the wind blows differently I'll decide to put a Feather in a SuperSpeed or my DE89.
I think you're right that YMMV and it can be a matter of what you feel like that day or just wanting to try something different. My suggestion is that if you're using an adjustable razor you start at a lower setting, regardless of the brand blade, and turn it up as you feel more comfortable. I've turned up my Fatboy with a Feather too soon and felt like I removed the top layer of skin on my face.
A lot of the fun in wet shaving is trying the different combinations, whether it's blades, razors, creams, soaps, etc. That how I got RAD (as well as acquisition disorders for the aforementioned items as well)!
Good luck!
Jim
I understand your question completely! Periodically I'll use my Fatboy turned way up (7 or more) with a Red IP and when the wind blows differently I'll decide to put a Feather in a SuperSpeed or my DE89.
I think you're right that YMMV and it can be a matter of what you feel like that day or just wanting to try something different. My suggestion is that if you're using an adjustable razor you start at a lower setting, regardless of the brand blade, and turn it up as you feel more comfortable. I've turned up my Fatboy with a Feather too soon and felt like I removed the top layer of skin on my face.
A lot of the fun in wet shaving is trying the different combinations, whether it's blades, razors, creams, soaps, etc. That how I got RAD (as well as acquisition disorders for the aforementioned items as well)!
Good luck!
Jim
It's all in the wrist.
What I mean is, IMHO, it's all about technique and familiarity with the peculiarities of your tools and the unique patterns (mapping) of your beard.
I'm inclined to use a Feather in all my razors.
Once your head (brain) and your muscle memory get locked in to the angle and weight of your razor and how to hold it to exert the least pressure possible while still hitting the beard with the blade edge, why not use the sharpest, smoothest blade you can find?
If you find that you're removing bits of your face, it's not the blade or the razor that's at fault (assuming they're not damaged or defective). It's your technique. Now, I'll admit that it's possible that one combo or another might not cooperate with you beard and your technique as well as the next.
Personally, I don't find much fun, comfort, smoothness, safety or closeness in using a less-sharp blade. YMMV.
From what I read on B&B, it would seem that there is someone out there getting a pleasing shave with every combo imaginable.
I just shaved this morning with a Feather on its third shave in a Merkur Progress. I used Hydrolast. The Progress was set at 3.5. Eight minutes, three passes (including loading the brush with the Hydrolast cube + paste + cutting balm + activator). BBS close. No irritation. No blood-letting. My skin tends to be sensitive. I could get away with skipping my AS balm today (I will use it). I was in a hurry, so I shaved before having a chance to shower. Some splashes of hot water and a quick face wash was my pre-shave today (normally, I shower and scrub first with an exfoliating scrub or cloth). The point is that I got as good a shave as I ever have simply because my technique is better than it used to be (smoother, more confident, less pressure, knowing the direction of my beard growth, etc.).
I suffer as much from various AD symptoms as the average B&B'r. But I've found in my short time as reformed DE shaver that once I learn the unique attributes of the tool in my hand, I want the sharpest blade I can find.
If you spend some time reading threads from our straight razor shaver friends, I don't think you will find anyone talking about how to hone their blades to make them less sharp (they do get into bezel angle and full vs half hollow vs wedge conversations, but never about going less sharp). Must be something to that.
My two cents. Sorry being long-winded.
What I mean is, IMHO, it's all about technique and familiarity with the peculiarities of your tools and the unique patterns (mapping) of your beard.
I'm inclined to use a Feather in all my razors.
Once your head (brain) and your muscle memory get locked in to the angle and weight of your razor and how to hold it to exert the least pressure possible while still hitting the beard with the blade edge, why not use the sharpest, smoothest blade you can find?
If you find that you're removing bits of your face, it's not the blade or the razor that's at fault (assuming they're not damaged or defective). It's your technique. Now, I'll admit that it's possible that one combo or another might not cooperate with you beard and your technique as well as the next.
Personally, I don't find much fun, comfort, smoothness, safety or closeness in using a less-sharp blade. YMMV.
From what I read on B&B, it would seem that there is someone out there getting a pleasing shave with every combo imaginable.
I just shaved this morning with a Feather on its third shave in a Merkur Progress. I used Hydrolast. The Progress was set at 3.5. Eight minutes, three passes (including loading the brush with the Hydrolast cube + paste + cutting balm + activator). BBS close. No irritation. No blood-letting. My skin tends to be sensitive. I could get away with skipping my AS balm today (I will use it). I was in a hurry, so I shaved before having a chance to shower. Some splashes of hot water and a quick face wash was my pre-shave today (normally, I shower and scrub first with an exfoliating scrub or cloth). The point is that I got as good a shave as I ever have simply because my technique is better than it used to be (smoother, more confident, less pressure, knowing the direction of my beard growth, etc.).
I suffer as much from various AD symptoms as the average B&B'r. But I've found in my short time as reformed DE shaver that once I learn the unique attributes of the tool in my hand, I want the sharpest blade I can find.
If you spend some time reading threads from our straight razor shaver friends, I don't think you will find anyone talking about how to hone their blades to make them less sharp (they do get into bezel angle and full vs half hollow vs wedge conversations, but never about going less sharp). Must be something to that.
My two cents. Sorry being long-winded.
I'd say it's better to use a sharper blade. Buying a sampler pack of blades is more economical than buying a more aggressive razor. A couple of blades I used (Derby, Supermax titanium) gave me poor shaves while others worked great with the same razor.
I'd say go with the sharp blade and find the level of razor aggressiveness that works for you. Probably the most practical way to do that is with an adjustable, if you can find one at a price you're willing to pay. Start a new sharp blade at a low setting -- say 3 -- then open it up for successive uses. You can also change the setting for more- or less sensitive areas.
You may find that you can get more aggressive as your technique adapts. There may also be some days you prefer a less aggressive shave.
I personally find the Feathers a bit over the line. My preferences are Israeli Reds and Polsilver SIs.
You may find that you can get more aggressive as your technique adapts. There may also be some days you prefer a less aggressive shave.
I personally find the Feathers a bit over the line. My preferences are Israeli Reds and Polsilver SIs.
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+1. You're shaving. You want the blade to be sharp. It doesn't matter what kind of razor you're using.
- Thread starter
- #8
Tried a feather for the first time in my R89 tonight.....was pretty much a perfect shave.
Was that an Octopussy reference? I haven't seen an old James Bond movie . . . in a while!
To answer the OP's question - everything is YMMV. Some people actually shave by putting a lot of pressure on a DE. It really doesn't work for me, though.
To answer the OP's question - everything is YMMV. Some people actually shave by putting a lot of pressure on a DE. It really doesn't work for me, though.
I work in law enforcement (police officer) and have to stay clean shaven (unless it's the weekend and I have time off). On the days I shave every morning...the feather blade can be a bit rough on my face (no matter what razor I'm using) since I can't give it ample time to heal...because of this, my pre and post shave prep is Super Important and I tend to use 7 O'clock blades when I'm shaving back-to-back days. But I also find that your technique is more important than anything. hope this helps.
You have a good technique; that levels the playing field with any razor/blade combo. I use Feather and Astra SP and emphasize good face-prep which is very important.
I think it's pretty much YMMV. You may have to try both to see what works best for you. I prefer milder razors with sharp blades. The way I see it, an aggressive razor usually just allows the blade to contact the skin at a wider range of angles and I don't get any benefit from that. Some guys might but my beard is pretty tough. I seem to need a shallow blade angle for any blade to work well and a mild razor just forces me to use a shallow angle. I really don't buy the "tough beard - use an aggressive razor" line of reasoning. Sharp blades and shallow blade angle is what you need and a mild razor will provide that.
And I'm quite the opposite regarding blades. So herewith a classic case of YMMV.
I use Merkur Slant and Mühle R41, but only with the cheapest blades (Dorco, Astra, Derby). If I focus on technique and prep, I get BBS all day long. My pet theory - these tools are so well designed and built that they'll always get great results under the right conditions. Derby Extra, one of the cheapest and least agreed-upon blade, ships as standard with R41.
Ask yourself this:
Would Mühle ship a poor performing blade to the typical R41 buyer - an experienced shaver who would discern in a heartbeat a subpar product?
- Thread starter
- #14
Interesting point...but it could be that Mühle just got the best deal (maybe free) from Derby...just to push their product? Most likely not, but you never know. I agree totally though that it's a YMMV issue...
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