Over the past few months, I have read some posts where members say that Mystic Waters is a difficult soap to lather. I'm hoping to dispel that opinion, because MW is really not difficult to lather. I will admit, it is a touchy soap to lather with very little forgiveness, but when you know how to lather it, it is not difficult.
The lather technique is not similar to any of the common techniques out there, such as the Marco Method. The reason for this is because MW is sensitive to water. A little water goes a long way (and by a little water, I mean a few drops). This sensitivity to water is the reason most people miss the lather with MW and get a "disappearing effect" with their lather when shaving.
The reason I am doing this is simple: MW is one of the best soaps I have ever shaved with! When you get that lather just right, this soap is a world beater. I developed this method of lathering MW with input from other members of this forum. I use this method every time I use MW (which is probably 50% of my shaves), and I rarely miss the sweet spot. Give this method a try for yourself.
For the basics: I am using a Simpson's Colonel X2L in Best Badger. It is the only brush I own. It has a good backbone for soaps, but is also soft on the face. Soak the brush in water prior to beginning to soften up the hairs. Also, I highly recommend a bowl to use. The technique here uses a bowl. I have used my hand before in the past, and that works just fine. I do not recommend face lathering this soap. You must add water slowly and fully incorporate it before moving to the next step. Face lathering does not allow for this.
Next, the soap. In this lather, I use one of my favorite scents, Orange Vanilla
Before beginning the lather, take the brush out and shake out all of the excess water. All of it. The hairs should still still be a touch wet, but you don't want any water in the brush at all. This is completely contrary to the Marco Method, but this is because of MW's water sensitivity. The key to this soap is to start dry and incorporate water slowly.
Now, with your dry brush, begin to lather on the puck for a solid minute. The product will start to get on the hairs, but it will not lather. After a minute, your brush will look close to this:
The product should be fully loaded on the brush and will be quite sticky. This is normal with MW soap. When we were test lathering this soap, some members referred to this as "gummy tendrils."
Once you get the product on the brush, add about 5 drops of water (that is not a typo, about 5 drops is all you need). I add the water drops using my DE. I dip the head of the razor into water using the handle (so the razor is upside down), pull it out of the water flat, and then let the drops fall off the razor onto the brush. It is the easiest way I have figured out how to do it. During our test lathers, we found that adding one-quarter of a teaspoon at a time was the right amount (and I actually used a measuring spoon to get this number).
Once you add the water, go back to the puck and begin to lather again for another 45 - 60 seconds. The sticky quality of the lather will begin to change slowly. After 45 - 60 seconds, it will look a bit like this:
The lather starts to take form. From this point, again add about 5 drops of water onto the brush and mix again, only this time in a bowl. You can also add the water at the bottom of the bowl. Mix thoroughly for about 45 - 60 seconds and the lather looks like this:
The lather starts to get more volume to it. The gummy quality to the product is just about all gone and you start to see the lather coming to form. Now when other soaps look like this, I say to myself, this soap has a long ways to go. But with MW, when you get to this point, you're almost home. All you need is one more addition of about 5 drops of water. Add the drops, mix for about 45 - 60 seconds, and you get this (continued on next post):
The lather technique is not similar to any of the common techniques out there, such as the Marco Method. The reason for this is because MW is sensitive to water. A little water goes a long way (and by a little water, I mean a few drops). This sensitivity to water is the reason most people miss the lather with MW and get a "disappearing effect" with their lather when shaving.
The reason I am doing this is simple: MW is one of the best soaps I have ever shaved with! When you get that lather just right, this soap is a world beater. I developed this method of lathering MW with input from other members of this forum. I use this method every time I use MW (which is probably 50% of my shaves), and I rarely miss the sweet spot. Give this method a try for yourself.
For the basics: I am using a Simpson's Colonel X2L in Best Badger. It is the only brush I own. It has a good backbone for soaps, but is also soft on the face. Soak the brush in water prior to beginning to soften up the hairs. Also, I highly recommend a bowl to use. The technique here uses a bowl. I have used my hand before in the past, and that works just fine. I do not recommend face lathering this soap. You must add water slowly and fully incorporate it before moving to the next step. Face lathering does not allow for this.
Next, the soap. In this lather, I use one of my favorite scents, Orange Vanilla
Before beginning the lather, take the brush out and shake out all of the excess water. All of it. The hairs should still still be a touch wet, but you don't want any water in the brush at all. This is completely contrary to the Marco Method, but this is because of MW's water sensitivity. The key to this soap is to start dry and incorporate water slowly.
Now, with your dry brush, begin to lather on the puck for a solid minute. The product will start to get on the hairs, but it will not lather. After a minute, your brush will look close to this:
The product should be fully loaded on the brush and will be quite sticky. This is normal with MW soap. When we were test lathering this soap, some members referred to this as "gummy tendrils."
Once you get the product on the brush, add about 5 drops of water (that is not a typo, about 5 drops is all you need). I add the water drops using my DE. I dip the head of the razor into water using the handle (so the razor is upside down), pull it out of the water flat, and then let the drops fall off the razor onto the brush. It is the easiest way I have figured out how to do it. During our test lathers, we found that adding one-quarter of a teaspoon at a time was the right amount (and I actually used a measuring spoon to get this number).
Once you add the water, go back to the puck and begin to lather again for another 45 - 60 seconds. The sticky quality of the lather will begin to change slowly. After 45 - 60 seconds, it will look a bit like this:
The lather starts to take form. From this point, again add about 5 drops of water onto the brush and mix again, only this time in a bowl. You can also add the water at the bottom of the bowl. Mix thoroughly for about 45 - 60 seconds and the lather looks like this:
The lather starts to get more volume to it. The gummy quality to the product is just about all gone and you start to see the lather coming to form. Now when other soaps look like this, I say to myself, this soap has a long ways to go. But with MW, when you get to this point, you're almost home. All you need is one more addition of about 5 drops of water. Add the drops, mix for about 45 - 60 seconds, and you get this (continued on next post):
