Finally - a Synthetic Winner!

[Samjax]

I haven't exactly been a big fan of synthetic brushes...I've only tried two up until today, a small 22-23mm Frank Shaving and the much raved about H.I.S.

The 23mm Frank was too small for my liking and didn't impress me much.

The H.I.S. was simply a wet mop on my face - now I understand, a lot of folks like wet mops apparently, it just wasn't my thing. It's not a bad brush - just not what I was hoping for.

I had discussed my concerns with a few here...including GDCarrington; who is pretty much the resident "Yoda" regarding all things synthetic. His reviews are generally extremely well done and I agree with him on pretty much everything, except of course the infamous H.I.S.

Incidentally, the H.I.S. was reported as being very similar to the 25mm Muhle synthetic, so I opted to pass on the Muhle.


Figuring there had to be a "better" way to get a good synthetic brush - I contacted Ian at Frank Shaving and explained my concerns about the existing synthetic choices and what I would personally like to have made. I was mostly interested in using a 28mm knot (like the H.I.S.) but with a shorter loft. We agreed upon a 28mm knot with a 54mm loft - stuffed with as much synthetic hair as he could get in it. I chose his basic black handle and several weeks later - it finally arrived.

My current stable of brushes include (as a point of reference)

Simpson Chubby 3 Super 30/56
Vulfix 40 Super 30/60
Rudy Vey 2 Band Finest 30/55
AOS Pure 23/52
Semogue SOC 2 Band in Cherry
Semogue SOC Bristle in Cherry
Vie-Long BGS 2012 Horse
Omega Pro 49
Semogue 830
Turkish Horse

And I have sold/traded/given away several more...but those are the models currently on hand.

On with the actual brush and its performance.

Once I washed the brush out a bit - I decided upon using a soap that most everyone is familiar with - Arko. I have shaved my sticks down into a tupperware container and it is a good all-around, affordable soap that does a darn good job.

In regards to loading the Frank 28/54, I followed my normal routine - 30 to 45 seconds - while I'm waiting for my sink to fill with hot water.

Pass number 1: Extremely nice lather - brush exhibits an excellent amount of backbone with a just the "right" amount of splay. Face feel is considerably better than my SOC bristle - more like my SOC 2 Band but with softness approaching my Chubby 3 Super. No scritch at all - if you need scritch - this brush isn't for you.

Pass number 2: Same as my first pass - I used "circular" motions this time after just a "touch" of water on the brush - lather was once again excellent - face "feel" of the brush was very impressive - soft, yet firm, if that makes any sense. The brush is actually feeling VERY much like my Rudy Vey 30/55 - and I do mean - VERY much.

My boars are usually fading after 2 passes - unless I use the Omega 49 - which holds 5 passes easily

Pass number 3: Once again, it was very much like using my Rudy Vey 30/55 (which feels very much like a larger Semogue SOC 2 Band) - the Frank Syn 28 is holding ample lather - I added just a spritz of hot water - and once again, worked circular then painted - excellent overall results. At this point, it is feeling very much like a soft, dense badger with a fair amount of backbone - which for face latherers like myself, is a very good thing.

Going into a fourth pass is generally reserved for my larger Badgers or big Omega - but I thought I would give it a shot with the Frank 28.

Pass number 4: Added just a touch of hot water to the brush - this pass was less rich than 1-3, but still very much a "usable" lather. By this time, I have a better "feel" if you will in regards to the "fine line" between soft/splay and backbone. This particular brush is really quite impressive - particularly when you figure it clocking in at around $27 shipped from China.

I decided to go on - just for kicks - to see how far this could go.

Pass number 5: Added a touch of hot water - circular motions once again - not really enough lather to mess with..this show is over!

Overall - the Frank Syn 28 is an amazing brush - regardless of price point. It is not too floppy by anyone's standards - and it's softness is very muck akin to high end badger (semi-gel like). The backbone of the Frank 28 will probably be a concern for those who want a more "luxurious" feel on their face - the H.I.S. felt very my like my M&F Polo 29/60 in that regard - the current Frank 28 is much more like the feel of the Semogue SOC 2 Band or the Rudy Vey 2 Band Finest (TGN knot) - but - it feels softer than either of them.

Lather retention was surprisingly good. With the Frank 28 you can very easily get 3 solid passes of amazing lather - the 4th is pretty good - but if you want 3 solid faces of lather - this brush delivers.

Finally - if you are looking for a 2 band badger "face lathering" backbone with the "face feel" of a 3 band super - in the price range of a decent boar - this is probably as good as you're currently going to get.

My personal comparisons (YMMV):

Horse: Easily wipes out the Turkish horse or the Vie-Long BGS2012...by a considerable margin. I see zero reason not to try this brush if you're considering a horse brush.

Boars: Better overall than my Omega 49, Semogue SOC or the Semogue 2011 LE #2 (which I just traded). Yeah...I said it...Semogue SOC and Semogue 2011 LE #2. Those are both excellent brushes - the Frank 28 simply does what they do better. Equal backbone - better face feel - better lather retention (with the exception of the large Omegas).

Synthetics: Easily beats the H.I.S. and the smaller Frank Shaving - not even a close race.

Badgers: This gets the race closer to home. I believe it is probably better than my much loved Semogue SOC 2 Band which will run you $75 to $90 - it really feels and operates somewhat like a "larger" version of the SOC. In comparing with the Rudy Vey 30/55 2 band, they are extremely close - but the Frank 28 has perhaps a more "lush" feel, but very much the same backbone - it's actually a VERY close comparison. Comparing to the Chubby 3 in Super - well, the Frank 28 offers the same face feel - but less of it - it's considerably smaller on your face than the Chubby 3. In regards to backbone - it provides more "stiffness" than the 3 band super.

I got my 20 year old son involved in my "un-scientific comparison" as well. I attempted a blind "test" of sorts and he ranked the Frank 28 just behind the Simpson Chubby 3 Super - and just about even with the Rudy Vey 30/55 2 Band Finest - followed by the Semogue SOC 2 band and then everything else.

YES - YMMV...but I have to say, if you're looking to get top shelf performance from a synthetic (or any brush for that matter) - regardless of price point - the Frank 28 Syn is a clear winner for me. I haven't tried "them all" - but I will go on record as saying that I don't think you will find a better "all-around" brush for under $75 to $100. For $27 - this is a "no-brainer" and in my opinion, the best dollar for dollar brush investment currently available. Highly Recommended!

I will be doing more testing with various soaps in the days to come. MWF, Tabac and Euro Palmolive are up next.

Photos: Semogue SOC 2 Band - Frank 28/54 Syn - Simpson Chubby 3 Super

[Triad]

Nice review!! Did you get this from Wal-Mart?

[SliceOfLife]

Nice review!! Did you get this from Wal-Mart?

Not sure if serious.

[Samjax]

How did you guess? Seriously though Triad...I think this brush is entirely too aggressive for you!

[Triad]

How did you guess? Seriously though Triad...I think this brush is entirely too aggressive for you!

Lol no really where did you get it?

[Samjax]

Frank Shaving - it was a special order through Ian. Shoot him an email and mention this design - he can have it to you in 4 weeks or so. He's more than happy to get the business.

Ian Tang -- [email protected]

He's great to work with and the brush arrived in a nice box with a free stand.

Mods: If it's not proper to include Ian's email here - please delete or edit as necessary. Thanks!

[Attila]

Great review sir! Looking forward to hearing more about it's performance!

[Triad]

Frank Shaving - it was a special order through Ian. Shoot him an email and mention this design - he can have it to you in 4 weeks or so. He's more than happy to get the business.

Ian Tang -- [email protected]

He's great to work with and the brush arrived in a nice box with a free stand.

Mods: If it's not proper to include Ian's email here - please delete or edit as necessary. Thanks!

Thanks Tom!! I tried an omega synthetic once it was floppy and sucked but this one sounds much better

[Loric]

I'v got one of these incoming as well, and now my SBAD is kicking into high gear. I'm was exited, but now I cant wait. Thanks for the write up!

[sychodelix]

I've mostly rolled my eyes at synthetic brushes, but that looks and sounds really great.

[BigBull]

Nice review. That does look nice...however, it really makes me want a Chubby 3! Ugh.

Can you speak on how fast it dried? I'm considering it for a travel brush....thus leaving my SOC's at home :(

[MilkyLee]

I like the look and sound of the brush, but I only do one pass every morning and think this brush would be overkill. I might see if he can do something in the 24mm knot area.

[rockviper]

Very nice write-up, Samjax

Can you compare this to the HIS head-to-head :
1) Softness : I really like the softness of the HIS tips.
2) Splay : The HIS has just the kind of splay I like .. nice and easy, without being floppy.

I really like the HIS, but it's just so gosh-darn big!

[eblau]

Thanks for the review, Samjax. It sounds like I have similar tastes in brushes to you. I have Semogue 620, 830 and SOC boars and a TGN 24 mm 2-band Finest and love them all for their backbone for face lathering. I especially like the 620 because of its backbone and short loft. It is perfect for face lathering.

I've been wanting to try a synthetic, but I was worried about buying a floppy mop that I would not like using for face lathering. This sounds like just the ticket! I fired Ian an email. Thanks again!

[GDCarrington]

Tom,

I would assume that the 6 mm reduction in loft from the H.I.S. provides a stiffer backbone while the 28 mm size still provides plenty of softness and stability (no donut hole).

Excellent work.

GD

[Samjax]

Gary - I think you're probably spot on...if the H.I.S. was available at 54mm loft instead of 60mm...this would have probably been their review.

Rockviper - the softness of the actual tips themselves is very much the same - the Frank 28 will not splay nearly as much as the H.I.S. though. There's a significant difference in backbone.

Milkylee - I would go for the 28...it's cheap and it will serve you well for both face and bowl lathering - whichever strikes your fancy.

Bigbull - I travel a lot - and it's going on the road with me...although I do take others as well. But it's pretty much dry within 45 minutes or so just sitting out - once I shake it out, etc..

[neilz4]

After my love affair with my HIS, and reading that you paid $27 for this brush, I just emailed Ian. I didn't need another brush- I need to get rid of some​! Ah well.

[GDCarrington]

Gary - I think you're probably spot on...if the H.I.S. was available at 54mm loft instead of 60mm...this would have probably been their review.

Well, it will appear that another low cost producer is cranking up. Good for the shaving community as a whole.

Now I will stroll on back to the new Cadet TTO and the new Cadet OC Head which is another new set of products under review.

Competition makes producers improve their products to compete to win customers, not just to expect the consumer to accept the status quo.

[MilkyLee]

I've got so many soaps and creams what's a little wasted lather. I also asked Ian if he could do a fan shaped knot and he said he could, it would just take a week longer.

[celestino]

Tom, congrats. i just ordered two Frank Shaving brushes specially order with Ian for 24mm with 48mm loft. i have the 24mm know with 55mm loft which is fine, but it is a bit too long for face-lathering for me.
These are becoming my favourite brushes as the bristles are very soft and they are lather monsters!!
Highly recommend them.
Tom, i was told by Ian that he could not make the knot larger because that is the handles were a fixed diameter. How did you get yours at 28mm?

Triad, Ian can be found on ebay also. Get your self one. You can custom order one for under $25 shipped.