2 Restores: 1 with Steampunk Scales & 1 with Polymer Clay Scales

**tumtatty** · 08-07-2011, 07:58 PM

I've been working on 5 sets of scales for a bunch of razors I've been sitting on.

This first one fits with the steampunk scales I've been doing a lot of lately. This time I heat treated the copper with a blow torch. It took many attempts but I was able to use the heat to bring out different colors in the metal. I put a CA finish on them once the i achieved the colors I wanted. The spacer is made from green acrylic.

The blade is a John Curtain "Invincible" that has almost zero honewear and no stains or pitting.

The 2nd set is new for me. I've been experimenting with polymer clay (its not really clay, but a plastic like PVC that you bake in the oven to harden). I put a super thin piece of wood (Paduak) behind it to give a bit more stability. This stuff is fun to work with and has tons of potential. I put a CA finish over the Polymer clay and made a spacer from a sandwich of brass and copper.

The blade is Westeholm & Sons with a cool etching on the blade. I haven't done any work on the blade to clean it up yet. I kind of like the retro look with the modern scales.

What do you guys think?

**otto76** · 08-07-2011, 08:09 PM

They are both great, the polymer clay scales are amazing looking! I realize you said it's not really clay but how does the durability seem to you? Is it fragile like a ceramic or is there no similarity other than being baked?

**tumtatty** · 08-07-2011, 08:17 PM

Its more like hard rubber. The thicker it is, the more rigid. I think for my next sets I'm going to try to bake it right onto acrylic. These scales are at least as rigid as the originals I replaced. I had thicker wood behind it, but they were too thick so I kept sanding it down until the wood was almost gone. There is a bit of flex but I'm quite happy with how they feel and I'm hopeful will last for a few generations :)

**JohnnyDemonic** · 08-07-2011, 08:36 PM

The IXL blade looks perfect the way it is. Great work, they look awesome.

**gorgehiker** · 08-07-2011, 08:45 PM

Love the steam punk look!!!

**otto76** · 08-07-2011, 08:54 PM

Originally Posted by tumtatty

Its more like hard rubber. The thicker it is, the more rigid. I think for my next sets I'm going to try to bake it right onto acrylic. These scales are at least as rigid as the originals I replaced. I had thicker wood behind it, but they were too thick so I kept sanding it down until the wood was almost gone. There is a bit of flex but I'm quite happy with how they feel and I'm hopeful will last for a few generations :)

Very cool. Baking it into the acrylic sounds like an interesting idea, I would really like to see that.

**rickboone1** · 08-07-2011, 08:57 PM

love 2. awsome.

**wta123** · 08-11-2011, 06:16 AM

Very cool scales

**Old Man Army** · 08-11-2011, 08:43 AM

Originally Posted by JohnnyDemonic

The IXL blade looks perfect the way it is. Great work, they look awesome.

+1 Good call on keeping the blade in original condition. The combination of etching, patina, and modern scales works well.

**John C** · 08-11-2011, 02:48 PM

Most excellent work
I really like the thermal coloring with the copper. Good call with sealing them to help preserve the finish of the metal.
If I could add one thing, you might want to think about putting a small taper on your wedges.

Again, Very nice work.

Cheers!

**tumtatty** · 08-11-2011, 03:09 PM

Roger! I will work on that. ive found that aspect troubling to accomplish as of late.

**John C** · 08-12-2011, 10:09 PM

Originally Posted by tumtatty

Roger! I will work on that. ive found that aspect troubling to accomplish as of late.

The way I tend to shape my wedges (warning: opinions may be pure bullmaulk....) is that I cut the material just a bit larger than the end of the scales. Then I hand sand the wedge on a sheet of 220 wet/dry sandpaper, then touch it up on a sheet of 400. I apply more pressure on one side of the material on both the push and the pull. Flip the wedge every dozen or so strokes to help keep it even, and continue untill I have the wedge shape that I'm needing for the project. I wrap my fingers in masking tape with the sticky side out to help keep control of the wedge material. If the internal wedge is going to be seen through the scales then I'll give it a quick buff to make it look purty. Then I set the rivit/s for the wedge end. Then I use a jewelrs saw and cut off the excess wedge material. Use a flat file to true it all up and then a little bit of sandpaper and it's ready to polish up on the buffer.

hope that helps a bit.
Cheers!!