Where does one begins on learning how to make scales?

[flatsixcrazy]

Hi,
i am looking to start dappling with making new scales for my str8s and looking for a link to primers on scale making. Please let me know a good source/book/video on how to/equipment of making scales. Thanks in advance for alll your help. Andy

 

[BillEllis]

The free stuff...
http://razortips.blogspot.com/

More detailed info...
http://www.billysblades.com/Straight Razor Book.htm

 

[heavydutysg135]

Here is another great source:

http://simianstats.com/monkey2/page1.htm

 

[FloppyShoes]

Here is another great source:

http://simianstats.com/monkey2/page1.htm

I like that one... Improvisational but impressive. I never thought of using an old key as a spacer.

 

[GsSixgun]

Here is another great source:

http://simianstats.com/monkey2/page1.htm

Some good ideas there, the paper and Elmer's is a little tuff though, I use rubber cement between the two halves.... it's just easier...
I totally absolutely don't agree with drilling the holes in the scales until the very end especially the pivot hole, it allows for better adjustment when attaching the blade to the scales just MHO... The key however gives me great ideas, would have never thought of that, and it opens up even more possibilities.....

 

[flatsixcrazy]

Thanks guys. I get the idea now. Perhaps I'll play around with some cheap materials first. Thanks again for the links. Andy

 

[farace]

Neat links, thanks!

Something I thought I'd offer up: There is a place near me, and there may be one like it near you, that does custom kitchen and cabinetry work, and they put scraps of exotic woods out in a bin for the taking. I've known friends to come home with sticks of mahogany for kindling wood. Now, there won't be enough there to build a china cabinet, but certainly there would be plenty for making some nice scales with no cost for the materials. (I'm now wondering if corian scraps are available, as well.)

 

[roughrider]

The free stuff...
http://razortips.blogspot.com/

More detailed info...
http://www.billysblades.com/Straight Razor Book.htm

Bill's DVD is very informative.

 

[BillEllis]

Here is another great source:

http://simianstats.com/monkey2/page1.htm

Lewis has some good information on his basic tutorial. I would only offer slight variation to the instruction.

First, SixGun already brought it up. Rubber cement, I think, would be a better choice than glue to keep the scales temporarily held together while they are being made. I don't think you need to use the paper between the halves, either. I use carpet tape many times because I get impatient with the rubber cement set times.

Second, I would not use a key as a spacer. It is my belief that spacers should not have parallel sides. A gazillion straight razors ago, tapered wedges were used for a reason. A tapered spacer enables the pivot area to be under more tension without having to tighten the pivot pin excessively and possibly cause cracking. Making the spacer sides parallel changes the dynamics on the inside of the scales.

Unless the key is the same thickness as the blade, the scales will want to curve from the wider thickness of the blade at the pivot area and bend back into the thickness of the spacer. It creates an inward warp rather than outward sweep as in most razors. This leaves the pivot area without enough tension at the tip of the scales to keep the blade snug while it is in the open position.

While using a key for a spacer shows ingenuity, I would avoid it in favor of a tapered wedge.

 

[ignatz]

In my opinion any of those methods of holding the scales together wouldn't be too bad. Paper separators are often used during cabinetmaking operations, but, of course, when no great stresses are expected the rubber cement or tape methods are just fine.

Bill has made a good point about the spacer in that is should in general be wedge-shaped instead of flat. This is not only alters the space between the scales for a better fit to the blade at point and hinge, but, in addition, the slight curvature imparted to the scales increases their strength. This strength increase is due to the greater structural integrity of a curved surface versus a flat surface made of the same material of equal thickness.

 

[farace]

I was wondering that about the spacer, but assumed that part of "grinding to fit" involved tapering. I just figured that if one is going to go to the trouble of cutting up a key, it's not that much more work to grind a taper onto it, is it? (I'm assuming the whole reason for using the key is simply because most people will have one laying around, so they wouldn't have to run out looking for stock.)

 

[FloppyShoes]

I was wondering that about the spacer, but assumed that part of "grinding to fit" involved tapering. I just figured that if one is going to go to the trouble of cutting up a key, it's not that much more work to grind a taper onto it, is it? (I'm assuming the whole reason for using the key is simply because most people will have one laying around, so they wouldn't have to run out looking for stock.)

It is indeed difficult to grind flat stock into a uniform taper. I would probably opt to shape it on an anvil instead of grinding, but that's me. The easiest way is to find tapered brass stock somewhere.

Furthermore, I would venture to say the taper of the "wedge" loses it's significance in 3 pinned scales (at least how I make them). So using a key or any other flat stock would be fine as long as the middle pin and any collar it has between the scales has significant bending resistance.

Seems to me as if these are just fine points. The scales shown work and look okay. Are they "perfect" by each of our personal standards? Not likely.

 

[GsSixgun]

I was thinking that the tapering of the key would not be all that tuff, in fact I think I'll try it just to see how it works, key blanks even if you don't have one laying around are less than $2 at Wally World and the flat stock brass from Home Depot would need to be tapered also...... I would really like to try silver I was thinking of an old silver quarter maybe working (but yer not supposed to de-face money)
The other thing that struck me as funny was the use of Super glue as a finish, I have never tried this so I cant attest to how it works...
I know when I finish a rifle stock, it is the multiple layers of finish, that actually brings out the true beauty of the wood grain... So that' what I've been using on the razor scales, I figured if they hold up on rifle stocks that are out in the woods, they should hold up on a razor Just some rambling thoughts....

 

[farace]

(but yer not supposed to de-face money)

If you deface it enough, no one will ever know it was money.

OTOH, last I checked there was a guy on eBay selling guitar picks made from old silver quarters, cut into approximately the old "451" shape. Still very identifiable as a quarter, and intentionally so.

 

[DEwey]

Here is another great source:

http://simianstats.com/monkey2/page1.htm

HD -- That's a cool link! Nice.

I saw a re-scale (in person) done by Spazola from SRP where he had used a key that he cut with a coping saw and it had turned out really nice. Not quite a Bill Ellis refurb, but it was a fine job nonetheless.

Speaking of...http://StraightRazorPlace.com has a section dedicated to Rehab-ing old straights. Check it out.