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What did you lap today?

Final finish and surface prep on a pair of Washitas. I came up with a little hack for the granite surface plate. A thin strip on double sided tape on the perimeter keeps the sand paper in place and stops it sliding around. It also stops any slurry from sneaking in under the paper and let’s you lap with two hands. As long as you stick to the middle of the stone, everything remains nice and flat.

I finished these Washitas to 240 grit WD. They feel pretty aggressive. I’ve had the smaller Lily White for a while. The larger mystery Washita is a new acquisition making its debut after a two week soak in Simple Green. It’s got some red blush to it. Seems like a nice stone.

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Yesterday I did my knife hones on a DMT. 220, 400, 1k, 3k and 6k hones. This was after honing 3 kitchen knives. Finished the knives on a Trans Arkie.

My razor hones dont need lapping much at all. And I havent gotten any new to me stones in a while. Althought I have a La Lune in the mail. Im hoping it will be ready to use and not need laping.
 
Finished up this 6x2 Rozsutec from Griffith. Tried the DMT 325 but that wasn’t doing a lot. So I went with some 80/220 grit sic powder on the back of a DMT plate.Then it was finished on the worn 325 DMT. This is a pretty hard stone and I’ll have to find where it lies in a progression.
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Is that sharpie? I use sharpie on hard naturals like Arks. If you use pencil on hard naturals, the swarf just washes it off. Sharpie will soak into a synthetic, but not naturals.

On synthetics if you just do a single grid lap, chances the swarf/slurry washed off your grid marks and the stone is still not flat. A pencil grid should come off completely in less than 10 laps, that is the test for me.

A 25 cent Lumber/Carpenter pencil is great for marking a pencil grid on synthetics.

Once a stone face is flat and smooth, refining with finer grits is quick and easy, loose grit or Wet & Dry. Flat is where the work is.

When flattening naturals, I start with a 140-grit plate, if that does not get it, India stone or loose 60 grit Silicone Carbide.

CNTG 140 grit plates are $30 and last a long time. On some synthetics if they sit for a while, they develop a hard “skin” a 140 cuts it quick and if you want a finer Diamond Plate can refine the stone face, though on low girt sub and 1k stones it is not needed. After a few laps the stone smooths out.
 
Is that sharpie? I use sharpie on hard naturals like Arks. If you use pencil on hard naturals, the swarf just washes it off. Sharpie will soak into a synthetic, but not naturals.

On synthetics if you just do a single grid lap, chances the swarf/slurry washed off your grid marks and the stone is still not flat. A pencil grid should come off completely in less than 10 laps, that is the test for me.

A 25 cent Lumber/Carpenter pencil is great for marking a pencil grid on synthetics.

Once a stone face is flat and smooth, refining with finer grits is quick and easy, loose grit or Wet & Dry. Flat is where the work is.

When flattening naturals, I start with a 140-grit plate, if that does not get it, India stone or loose 60 grit Silicone Carbide.

CNTG 140 grit plates are $30 and last a long time. On some synthetics if they sit for a while, they develop a hard “skin” a 140 cuts it quick and if you want a finer Diamond Plate can refine the stone face, though on low girt sub and 1k stones it is not needed. After a few laps the stone smooths out.

Not sure if this is in response to me or not but I’ll answer as if it was.

Yes, it is a sharpie. Did the grid in each step including the worn DMT 325. I might try an India next time as I just picked one up.

This is a very hard stone, reminds me of a fine Washita.
 
Finished up this 6x2 Rozsutec from Griffith. Tried the DMT 325 but that wasn’t doing a lot. So I went with some 80/220 grit sic powder on the back of a DMT plate.Then it was finished on the worn 325 DMT. This is a pretty hard stone and I’ll have to find where it lies in a progression. View attachment 1555469View attachment 1555470View attachment 1555471

I have a Roszutec scythe stone that I have used occasionally for honing, it’s a slow stone but gives a decent finish. Might only be a pre-finisher for some but I can shave off of mine just fine.
 
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Good thread

Just finished cleaning up this big block of purpley slate

start
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middle
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End:
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Will need to take proper photo outside but it is very fine with the black surface lines. Played with a razor off 1k and was able to erase most 1k marks with slurry to water. Really really fine stone that feels great to hone on. Pretty funny it is so fat with odd chamfering. I thought it was a hindo from the sellers brownish photos online haha.
 
Good thread

Just finished cleaning up this big block of purpley slate

start
View attachment 1555641

middle
View attachment 1555642

End:
View attachment 1555643

Will need to take proper photo outside but it is very fine with the black surface lines. Played with a razor off 1k and was able to erase most 1k marks with slurry to water. Really really fine stone that feels great to hone on. Pretty funny it is so fat with odd chamfering. I thought it was a hindo from the sellers brownish photos online haha.
If it's shockingly fast and fine it's probably a la lune and they are fantastic.
 
This is a pretty hard stone


Excluding novaculites just about the hardest natural whetstone I can think of. Very interesting stones Rozsutec, you won't have used anything quite like it (at least I haven't). Look forward to hearing what you think...
 
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Excluding novaculites just about the hardest natural whetstone I can think of. Very interesting stones Rozsutec, you won't have used anything quite like it (at least I haven't). Look forward to hearing what you think...

I’ll try to get an idea on it today.
 
Some slate-y things, L to R:

1.) This was sold by Dronfield, and is at the coarser end of slate honestones. I'm fairly confident would not finish a razor.

2.) Wooden Box AB Salmen stone.

3.) Yellow Lake. The larger yellow box size.

4.) A very fine, dark and relatively soft stone. Not certain what it is atm, but it could be Enterkine Water of Ayr.


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rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
Today I put together a 300mm x 75mm balsa strop, lapped it and applied some 0.1μm diamond paste. This balsa strop will be included in the "Bengall" SR Starter's kit I am putting together. Here it is all finished, including the paste application.

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The balsa strop consists of (from bottom to top):
  • 16mm thick balsa wood (painted after gluing)​
  • 5.5mm thick ceramic tile​
  • 8mm thick balsa wood​
The 16mm balsa/tile bond is epoxy adhesive and the tile/8mm balsa bond is spray contact adhesive. Acrylic paint was applied after all adhesives had set.

Much easier lapping balsa wood :biggrin1: .
 
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