tackling first restore, Rubberset #4

[Galhatz]

Hello restoration Gurus,

I have been looking for this brush for a while, most of the time they rack up over $30 but the other day one was offered at $11 buy it now, so I grabbed it.
The photo did not look great but lo and behold, the brush was in pretty good shape.

First the before picture:



After 30 minutes with MAAS, things look better.


At this point I turn to the collective wisdom of this forum in search for advice and guidance.
* getting rid of the knot. How would you do it? steam method? ye old single edge razor and a screw driver?

* polishing it up. Is there a aluminum specific compound that would be better than MAAS? I does require a bit of elbow grease. Also, there are a lot of fine usage scratches I'd like to buff out. Is there a dremel bit you would recommend for this task? or some very fine sanding paper? If you could be specific with product names/models that would be great as this is my first ever metal project.

* when I finally get a new knot, I don't want to epoxy it rather have the option to take it out. Someone mentioned here silicone based glue. Could you recommend me a specific product? I went to TrueValue and the folks there were stomped and I didn't find a product that had both the words silicone and glue.

* As for knot choice, I am looking for something with strong backbone as I primarily face lather. I am not sure how deep I can set the knot in this brush yet. I currently use a Whipped Dog 24mm silvertip set at 45mm. While it doesn't bloom on its own (I need to plump it open after I shave so it dries well), it does have a lot of backbone and I am overall happy with it. I thought for this one though to either go with WD pure black or TGN finest. What do you think? (hence the above question about non permanent glue)

I must say though, I am really getting hooked on this project. There is an element of emotional investment in it that I would never have with an off the shelf brush.
Thank you for reading!

 

[Gigster]

Rubberset 400s make excellent restores. They feel great in the hand and are quite appealing to the eye.

I finished one recently: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/311509-Two-More-Down

To remove the knot, I separated the upper portion of the handle from the lower. I guess there are several ways to do it, but I used a strap wrench (hard plastic handle with a thick rubber strap). I taped the upper to make sure I don't inflict any damage to the upper when trying to separate the two pieces.

The results you're looking for depends of the effort you want to put into it. Mine. . .loads of elbow grease in sanding. Polish, I used 3M Rubbing compound (03900) and Meguiar’s PlastX. After, I used auto wax.

I went with a TGN Finest bulb. Plenty of backbone, but still has soft tips. How deep you sink the new knot depends on how you want the knot to feel. Suggestion. . .don't completely remove the old knot until you measure the new knot.

Good luck and post your progress.

 

[Galhatz]

Thank you Gigster!
You mentioned sanding, which sanding paper did you use?
Is the upper part basically a short threaded tube?

 

[Gigster]

320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, and 3000 wet/dry sandpaper.

Yes, it's a threaded tube. The threads (from the bottom lip) run approx two-thirds the way up.

As you can see, I gutted all of the old stuff in it.

 

[Deltaboy]

Good work!

 

[bastimret]

Man, my hands were aching after doing a sand job from 400 to 2500 on two of my Ever Ready 200's back-to-back, I can't imagine how camped they'd be after getting a polish like that on one of these handles, looks great! I really want to do one of these in the near future.

 

[Galhatz]

Update.
Finally had some more time to spend on this project.
I was able to get the knot out and it gave one hell of a fight.
I used a bunch of sanding papers: 300,600,1000,2000,2500 and wet 3000.
I can't say its stellar though:



What am I doing wrong?

 

[Big Jim]

Nothing.

If you want to completely get rid of the mild etching that remains, it will just take a lot more sanding. You can now move to a buffing wheel which will dig somewhat into the etching and likely somewhat smooth it, but it won't end up it being as completely smooth as sanding will get it. I vote for buffing it out the rest of the way.

If you do want to keep sanding, you are not ready for the finer grit yet. Use the courser grit until all the etching is gone and then progress through the finer and finer grit to bring on the luster. You should still be using 300 or 600 from what I can see in the photo.

I still vote for buffing. It will still look great and would not likely take as much work at this point.

 

[tomcj2]

.................................... Someone mentioned here silicone based glue. Could you recommend me a specific product? I went to TrueValue and the folks there were stomped and I didn't find a product that had both the words silicone and glue.
!

Look for any Silicone Caulk and Sealant. Buy one that indicates use in a bathroom as it has an additive that resists mold. Use a tiny amount because it really holds

 

[Mick]

I'll second the bench buffer and some rouge to get the final finish on the handle.

You should spend the extra effort to get all of it cleaned up since you have done such a fine job so far!

 

[alpster]

If you want to lose all the discoloration, you will need to go back to the course sandpaper untill it's all gone, then the finer paper to get the gloss finish back. Finish with a buffing compound. I want to get my hands on one of these so I can make my fingers hurt sanding and buffing. You guys keep out bidding me on them. LOL

Ronnie

 

[coolbus18]

I'll second the bench buffer and some rouge to get the final finish on the handle.

You should spend the extra effort to get all of it cleaned up since you have done such a fine job so far!

and I'll third that!

 

[Galhatz]

Thank you guys for the kind words of encouragement! I must confess. The first I tried to drill out the knot I got completely turned off by the whole thing. It was 11pm, finally got some time to play with this project, went to the cold garage and did not expect the fumes of burning boar hair and the dust storm that it worked out. Lesson learned - do it outside.
I was ready to give it up and buy a brush, but this project was very effective as a self imposed rule of not buying any new brushes until I finish this restore. Also, I want to control the loft size and it does look cool. So last evening I took the dremel to the back yard and let went to town on it.
So now I am psyched. I should have bought the TGN 26mm XH finest while they were in stock... I emailed the store they said they will re-stock in a week or two...

A few more questions:
I don't have a bench buffer. I do have a regular rechargeable drill and a dremel.
Could you recommend an appropriate buffing attachment as well as rouge material?

Speaking of knots. I saw a few posts where a 26mm knot was used in this restore. Would it make a huge different if a 24mm knot is used instead?
Also, say I like smaller knots, is there a way to install 22mm knot in this brush, with some short of a sleeve or a shim maybe?

Thank you so much for the help thus far.

 

[mattdenicola]

Speaking of knots. I saw a few posts where a 26mm knot was used in this restore. Would it make a huge different if a 24mm knot is used instead?
Also, say I like smaller knots, is there a way to install 22mm knot in this brush, with some short of a sleeve or a shim maybe?

Thank you so much for the help thus far.

I actually think the 24mm knot works best for this brush. I might be incorrect, but when I restored mine I remember my measurements being such that a 26mm knot wasn't going to work. I suppose you could build a sleeve, but I would imagine that to be more hassle than it is worth.

 

[theretroshave]

For the 26mm knot to work, you would have to either (or both) file down the base of the knot, or file open the handle hole (which I would think most, myself included, would not want to do). 24mm is a great size, and fits this brush perfectly. I'm looking forward to seeing your result- good luck, and enjoy the process!

 

[Galhatz]

I measured the opening, it was 26mm. So I ordered a 26mm knot... and it arrived today... and it is too big..
The knot base would fit but it is so dense that it doesn't go very deep.
I enlarged the hole a bit with a dremel but still it is too big.
My options are either keep on filing or reduce the knot a bit by cutting the hair around with a straight edge blade until I can get it to fit in.

TGN is really top notch. the shipping was rapid and this is the first badger hair i encounter that has no smell at all.

 

[blzrfn]

I wouldn't cut any hair! Worst case scenario is to set that knot aside for another project or sell it on B/S/T and order a knot that will fit properly.

 

[Old Man Army]

That's a nice handle, it's on my list of brushes I hope to stumble across one day. I hope you get the knot figured out.

 

[mattdenicola]

I wouldn't cut any hair! Worst case scenario is to set that knot aside for another project or sell it on B/S/T and order a knot that will fit properly.

+1. I'm not sure you will be able to file the opening to the necessary size without risking serous damage to the handle. I imagine someone might take it off your hands on B/S/T at a mild discount such that you only wasted a few bucks.

 

[Galhatz]

A new 24mm fan knot is en route. I am fond of the idea of using silicone as glue which would allow me to experiment with different loft heights. also, since its my first restore, something permanent as epoxy scares me a bit in case I do it wrong. I was really hoping to get it done over the weekend... wonder what to do with that 26mm knot....