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Straight razor question

Hi guys,
Here's a srt8 noob question: what does the 5/8, 6/8, 7/8 associated with straights mean? Is it the height or length of the blade? Is there a particular blade type/shape/length that is good learn on? I am getting pretty good with my DE set up but it's time to try for the big league now. Thanks all.
 
It's the size of the razor, which is more-or-less the distance from the edge to the back of the spine. Most guys don't care much about the length since they're almost all between 2 7/8 - 3 1/8 long. The size is much more important since it has a large impact on handiness and weight and ease of honing. Weight goes up nonlinearly with size, so there's not as big of a difference between a 5/8 and 6/8 as there is between a 6/8 and a 7/8. On the other hand larger razors are easier to hone (all other factors being equal), this also appears to be nonlinear but the other way - 3/8 is significantly more difficult to hone than 4/8, but an 8/8 is only slightly easier to hone than a 7/8. Take these two trends into account and it's easier to see why 5/8 and 6/8 were the sweet spot in razor size back in the day.
 
Look at a foot ruler you will see that one inch is divided into 8 equal halves. That is how they measure a blade from spine to edge
8/8 = 1 inch
6/8 = 0.75 inch etc..
 
It's the size of the razor, which is more-or-less the distance from the edge to the back of the spine. Most guys don't care much about the length since they're almost all between 2 7/8 - 3 1/8 long. The size is much more important since it has a large impact on handiness and weight and ease of honing. Weight goes up nonlinearly with size, so there's not as big of a difference between a 5/8 and 6/8 as there is between a 6/8 and a 7/8. On the other hand larger razors are easier to hone (all other factors being equal), this also appears to be nonlinear but the other way - 3/8 is significantly more difficult to hone than 4/8, but an 8/8 is only slightly easier to hone than a 7/8. Take these two trends into account and it's easier to see why 5/8 and 6/8 were the sweet spot in razor size back in the day.


Spot on information.

Glen
 
D'Brie, the system of "eighths" refers to the width of the blade as measured (roughly) from the back of the spine to the cutting edge. Thus, a 5/8 razor would ideally measure five eighths of an inch (15-16mm) when brand new. These are only nominal measurements, since razor manufacturers are seldom absolute perfectionists where dimensions are concerned.

I would also tend to agree that the larger razors can 'seem' to be easier to hone and sharpen for the novice simply because the extra width is an advantage in holding them down snug on stone or strop.

The size of the blade can be an important factor for you, most especially in relation to your type of beard growth and to a small degree relative to your own body size.

Somewhat smaller men with more delicate hands and perhaps a lighter beard would be well served with a 4/8 razor.

A larger man with a heavier beard (and perhaps with hands to match) would probably choose for a 5/8 or larger.

I also find that the wider blades of the larger size razors can actually give you a bit more room to "peek" between the handle and the cutting edge to see what you are doing since your hand and fingers will be just that little bit further away from your face.

But don't overdo it. The larger, wider blades can make short work of a heavy beard, but using a blade that is too large for you can lead to some maneuvering difficulties, most especially when shaving that little tricky bit just under the nose.
 
I find no difference doing the Coup de Maitre with a 4/8 or a 7/8 razor, and feel confident in saying that I have NEVER cut myself here. However, I get more easy control over blade angle with a larger razor, and it feels more comfortable in my hands, so I use 5/8 or larger now. Also means that you can do a whole side of your face before you need to swipe the lather off.
 
I have cut myself doing Coup de Maitre - more than once. Do it all the time with 9/16 to 8/8, and I must say the cuts come mostly from 5/8 and 6/8 I think, not 7/8 and 8/8.

The movement is modified a bit, depending on the razor. The 7/8 and 8/8 just cannot be used in this stroke with the same angle as a 5/8 and that's that (well, with my nose, anyway). I still think the 5/8 and 6/8 is more convenient - but I probably got some cuts becuse I felt more comfortable and was a bit careless :smile:

Cheers
Ivo
 
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