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Stahly, possible to dismantle?

That's something else I wanted to ask. If any one has a "perfectly working" Stahly, how would you describe the vibrations? Constant, steady vibration? Or like many clockwork mechanisms, a little bit of a lull in vibration as the mechanism moves.

Constant and steady, rightside up or upside down, until it starts winding down.
 
Constant and steady, rightside up or upside down, until it starts winding down.

Hrmmmm, than the throbbing mine goes through even when fully wound is NOT normal. Hrmmm.

I have something like this I got from an old job at 7-11: http://www.server-products.com/en/FS_82500.htm , so maybe I will load the oil holder into it to get it to maintain a constant temp and not cool down like the boiling water bath does...
 
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OK, I have done four full warm/hot oil cycles. The last two were with the bottom off so that the top seam under the head would be submerged.

At first, winding resulted in NO movement. I got scared, but as soon as I turned it upside down, it started right up. I have been turning it to keep it running for like 5 minutes straight, and it seems to really be mellowing out and shaking well. There is a still a SLIGHT stutter, but it seems to be evening out more and more. It's 100% better than when I got it though. I still can't figure out why it spins better when it's upside down, but on the plus side, that's how I hold it for an ATG pass!

That's super cool, Jim. I'm glad the results are so good!
 
OK so I managed to get mine unscrewed also, don't know why I couldn't do that before as it was pretty easy. Anyway put a bit of lube on the spring which has made it a bit smoother on operation, I don't think mine is anywhere near as bad as yours I was just being picky about it.
I think I can see how to get it apart now as well which may be of help to you. I can see at the base of the spring are 2 small screws, one on each side of the shaft (which must go all the way through) about 90deg apart. Im willing to bet they go into the main section with the counterweight is, looks like if you are really careful you could use a small screwdriver and unscrew them without taking out the spring and maybe the whole lot just slides out. On mine the spring is held in place by some sort of collar which looks like is how it was installed, the spring pretensioned and then the mechanism slides into the casing. Only problem I can see with trying this is that if the spring unwinds you might never get it to work properly again.

Sooo, who wants to go first ???
 
Question for you, when winding yours up how many turns do you give it (or get)? Do you just keep winding till it can go no further?
Just FYI, mine does 12 full 'twists' to the stop point, thought maybe yours is not actually going far enough as I think when mine is about half way through it's cycle it start to slow and pulse fast/slow.
 
Question for you, when winding yours up how many turns do you give it (or get)? Do you just keep winding till it can go no further?
Just FYI, mine does 12 full 'twists' to the stop point, thought maybe yours is not actually going far enough as I think when mine is about half way through it's cycle it start to slow and pulse fast/slow.

Yes, I usually twist it until I meet heavy resistance, or sometimes if I'm not really paying attention, till it stops. I have to admit the more often I wind it up, the smoother it seems to get. It also seeps a little oil, but I think that is the excess oil it sucked in leveling out. I also notice that before, when it stopped vibrating, there seemed to be a little more "left" inside, like I could shake/twist it, and it would buzz a little. Now, after it's wound down, when I wind it, it starts w/no tension. My only complaint is I can now feel the spring inside as it loosens up. But I'm sure I'll figure that one out. I think last nights soak in the water heater set at 175 and the plate over the top to hold the heat in helped a lot.
 
Does yours have those 2 screws inside the spring compartment?

I can still feel the spring on mine 'slip' as it unwinds at points even after a bit of sewing machine oil was applied to it, but it's smoother than before. Still like to get inside the shaft and see what the oil/grease looks like just not sure about the chance of the spring flying across the room, that would really ruin it.
 
Does yours have those 2 screws inside the spring compartment?

I can still feel the spring on mine 'slip' as it unwinds at points even after a bit of sewing machine oil was applied to it, but it's smoother than before. Still like to get inside the shaft and see what the oil/grease looks like just not sure about the chance of the spring flying across the room, that would really ruin it.

I think I have seen them. http://www.google.com/patents?id=W7ZKAAAAEBAJ&zoom=4&pg=PA1#v=onepage&q&f=false There is a copy of the patent, including the diagrams of the Stahly. It looks like the screws DO extend through the inside.

I have thought about putting a zip tie around the spring if I wanted to remove it. I figure they are strong enough to keep the spring from un-winding and also still keep it under tension. But I paid more than a little for this one, so until I find a cheaper this one, I'm gonna settle for NON-disassembly cures.
 
Oh thats cool, thanks. Never thought to look up patents. Thats a lot more complicated than I imagined, he must have been a watchmaker in a former life!
 
I think I have seen them. http://www.google.com/patents?id=W7ZKAAAAEBAJ&zoom=4&pg=PA1#v=onepage&q&f=false There is a copy of the patent, including the diagrams of the Stahly. It looks like the screws DO extend through the inside.

I have thought about putting a zip tie around the spring if I wanted to remove it. I figure they are strong enough to keep the spring from un-winding and also still keep it under tension. But I paid more than a little for this one, so until I find a cheaper this one, I'm gonna settle for NON-disassembly cures.

If you've every tried to repair a tape measure you know the kinda force these springs can possess.
The spring in the Stahly looks shorter but thicker then a tape measure spring and I'm sure it storing a lot of energy.
I have a working Stahly in my "Odd Ball" Razor display and another working handle that when I bought it it came with a Tech head, which pissed me off as I bought it for the fine shaving Stahly head not the porky handle.
 
If you've every tried to repair a tape measure you know the kinda force these springs can possess.
The spring in the Stahly looks shorter but thicker then a tape measure spring and I'm sure it storing a lot of energy.
I have a working Stahly in my "Odd Ball" Razor display and another working handle that when I bought it it came with a Tech head, which pissed me off as I bought it for the fine shaving Stahly head not the porky handle.

I know most zip ties can do ~150lbs. I also have some more hi strength ones with steel "catches" on them that I don't use for everyday use, but for times when it counts. I have also considered a worm drive hose clamp.

From what I have seen, there are times when the spring is compressed that you can see the screws. I've thought about putting a zip tie on then, and seeing if I could unscrew it with the spring in the razor. Again, I think I will wait until I come across another one to tamper with the dark forces of the razor fates, as this one seems to be responding well.
 
Oh thats cool, thanks. Never thought to look up patents. Thats a lot more complicated than I imagined, he must have been a watchmaker in a former life!

I know! When we finally perfect transparent aluminum, I know what I will replace the outside of this razor with. Just thinking of those gears meshing and working together made me realize that something like thick grease would interfere with the more slow moving less powered gears, which could affect the whole shebang.
 
I know most zip ties can do ~150lbs. I also have some more hi strength ones with steel "catches" on them that I don't use for everyday use, but for times when it counts. I have also considered a worm drive hose clamp.

From what I have seen, there are times when the spring is compressed that you can see the screws. I've thought about putting a zip tie on then, and seeing if I could unscrew it with the spring in the razor. Again, I think I will wait until I come across another one to tamper with the dark forces of the razor fates, as this one seems to be responding well.

A zip tie might work if it's strong enough. I had thought about a spring compressor for a small gas engine, but that would get in the way. The fold on the end of the spring needs to be free to connect to the catch on the inside wall of the razor.
I might be able to find the disassembled stahlys somewhere to take pics.
 
Shaved with my Stahly last night with a Blue Bird blade. It was the first time and it wasn't to pleasurable. Then I tried my slant and the pretty much same result. I guess since I hadn't shaved in over a week, the hair was a little thick. :blush:

So once the slant did it's job, I cranked up the Stahly and went to town. Once the really long thick hair was gone, it worked like a charm. I of course came across a problem. How to you lather with a vibrating razor? I have a small sink, and a vibrating razor will soon become a fallen on the ground razor. Well, I found that the cap to a spray paint can will hold a Stahly's base pretty well. I sanded down the 4 fins inside until the cap no longer stretched, and now the Stahly sits in it and even vibrating doesn't move off the sink.
 
I've been trying like the dickens just to manage to unscrew the base on the one I just bought.
So far it's Stahly 1 / Chris 0. Although there is a nice little blister coming out on my thumb.... it's time to get serious and bring the tools out tomorrow!
 
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How to you lather with a vibrating razor? I have a small sink, and a vibrating razor will soon become a fallen on the ground razor.

I set my Stahly on it's side on a wet, but wrung out, sponge. Instant vibration dampener. It hold my razor nicely while I'm getting ready for the next pass.
 
Be careful with those serious tools, Chris. My Stahly has some tool marks on the handle, presumably from a previous owner who tried to take it apart when it froze up. But all it needed was a long soak in warm water.
 
Is it possible it just got slightly clogged up over the years? thus slowing it down a tad?? or maybe some corrosion inside due to copper wires?
 
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