I have been using brass to re pin my razors, 1/16 brass stock is easily accessible. What are you Gents using to re-pin sliver pins? Nickel or Stainless 1/16 stock? Is stainless too hard?
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Silver razor pin question?
- Thread starter Eshebert
- Start date
Nickel silver, also known as German silver, a cupronickel alloy. It's what most of the white-metal pins were originally made of as far as I know. It works more or less identically to brass only it polishes out white instead of yellow.
Yep, nickel silver.
Good luck trying to peen stainless.
Good luck trying to peen stainless.
Yup Nickle Silver rod from Texas Knife Supply, stainless steel washers from Micro Fasteners, an inexpensive dapping doming block to dome the washers into collars.
Works just like brass. Stainless steel rod is much harder, but can be peened with a lot more work and no additional benefit.
Works just like brass. Stainless steel rod is much harder, but can be peened with a lot more work and no additional benefit.
^
This stuff - the 1/16".
This stuff - the 1/16".
316 stainless works fine, but you need the next size up hammer and it's slow.
Contrary to the advise I usually see for riveting, it's best to use the flat side of the hammer to "upset" the rod above the washer to expand it and set the scales before peening the head over -- don't remember where I saw this, but it's "normal" riveting practice. When riveting metal, particularly metal thicker than thin sheet, it's necessary to expand the rivet in the hole to prevent the sheets "working" under the heads (which can cut the rivets off). Not sure where I read that, probably in some of my Grandpa's books.
I've bent a few stainless pins, but by and large if you keep them perpendicular to the anvil and use a slightly larger hammer, 316 (non hardening) stainless, or 18/8, will work just fine. Takes twice as long perhaps.
Nickel silver will work much like brass, again it's best to "upset" the rivet on both sides and get it tight before peening the head
Contrary to the advise I usually see for riveting, it's best to use the flat side of the hammer to "upset" the rod above the washer to expand it and set the scales before peening the head over -- don't remember where I saw this, but it's "normal" riveting practice. When riveting metal, particularly metal thicker than thin sheet, it's necessary to expand the rivet in the hole to prevent the sheets "working" under the heads (which can cut the rivets off). Not sure where I read that, probably in some of my Grandpa's books.
I've bent a few stainless pins, but by and large if you keep them perpendicular to the anvil and use a slightly larger hammer, 316 (non hardening) stainless, or 18/8, will work just fine. Takes twice as long perhaps.
Nickel silver will work much like brass, again it's best to "upset" the rivet on both sides and get it tight before peening the head
It's not that stainless is 'too hard' - it's just that it requires more work from cutting to length up to peening and removing if needed.
I've done exactly one pivot pin in stainless, just to give it a spin. Worked fine but offered zero advantage and it was harder to remove then a typical Nickel silver or brass pin. Zero advantage plus extra work is a no-go for me.
Nickel rod is very available from many sources.
Maggards sells the stuff, for example.
I usually favor the shops that have been supporting the shaving community.
