Shaving with the Wilkinson Empire SE Safety razors
If you own one of these razors and have been thinking of using it, or if you have looked at them on eBay or the B/S/T and thought about buying one this thread is for you. The Wilkinson Empire model was produced in England from about 1929 up to about 1952. There were a number of handle configurations and the later sets were seven-day sets with special clips that the blades fit into, with the clips then being inserted into the razor. This series of razors are single-edge safeties with an adjustable safety bar. The Empire models, like the Valet Auto Strop razors, are also designed so you may strop the blade while it is still in the handle. A little knob at the rear is turned to move the safety bar in and out. Some handle configurations also allow for the tilting and locking of the razor’s head at various angles. These are adjustable SE razors, a rather rare breed, and are fun to use.
The blades originally made to fit these razors are hollow ground blades and Waits puts these razors into the “wedge safety” category in his compendium. I posted how to re-hone the blades simply here: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...ow-ground-safety-blades?p=3597374#post3597374
Many readers of this part of the forum may not be into honing, so they may have a blade honed for them (see below) or can, for some models of the handles, use modified current production SE blades as described by themba in post #30, photos by drews50 in post #48, of this thread: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/206311-Calling-all-Wilkinson-Sword-razor-experts
The fancy looking 7-day sets like the one in post #27 of the above thread, are great looking sets, but cannot take the modified modern SE blades. To use this variation of handle that requires clips one must use the original blades. The earlier sets like those on posts #1, #20 and #48 have the handles that can take modified current production SE blades.
So how do these razors shave? With a sharp blade they shave surprisingly well. I shaved with re-honed original blades for ten days and had no problems. I received consistently nice CCS to BBS in three passes, no nicks or irritation, with good audible feedback. The ability to adjust the aggressiveness was fun and so was the stropping. The original blades must be stropped before each shave, but I strop both before and after use. The feel of the shave and the razor angle were a bit different, but the results were good. The blades are carbon steel, so they need to be thoroughly dried after each use.
The razors themselves, due to heavy build and the built in stopping mechanism are heavy, in particular, top heavy. This differs from many other razors that hold much of the weight in the handle and provides for both an entirely different balance requirement and shave experience. If you have used a Valet Auto Strop, then you get the top-heavy feel.
So far, I only had trouble with my first shave using the modified SE blade, which was the only shave where I experienced any nicks. After having used the original Wilkinson blades for ten days, the modified modern SE was a bit sharper and less forgiving. I still got an excellent shave, but there were four little nicks that were easily handled with cold water and alum. I am thinking that, if I had gone from regular SE to the modified SE in the Wilkinson handle, this would not have been an issue. The second shave with the modified SE was just fine and there was excellent results with no nicks or weepers.
Buying advice: I would suggest avoiding the pretty 7-day sets, unless you just want one for your collection. Most will have used blades and will require re-honing, since NOS stock replacement blades are hard to come by. If the original blades are chipped, avoid any set, as they are likely gone, because there is only so much you can take off these blades for them to still fit in the handle. I would go for one of the earlier models from the 1930’s, as they are both less expensive and can take the modified current blades. Here is one I just bought that can take the modified current production blades, and which is coming with some NOS wrapped original blades: http://www.ebay.com/itm/320785855391?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
You should with some careful buying be able to pick up a good cased older Empire set for $30 or less. The 7-day sets in good shape seem to be running $50 or more delivered, some up to $100. So, the more versatile handles are actually lower priced at this time.
Wilkinson made some wonderful sets before the Empire models, but these seem to be quite pricey; some of these sets even had Ivory handles. The earlier sets used different configuration blades and I have not tried adapting modern blades yet. I may do so in the near future, as I picked up one older set recently.
Well, I hope you find this post at least mildly interesting. If you are not in a hurry, since my schedule is unpredictable, I am willing to hone up one blade for each of a few members for the price of return postage. So, if you really want to try your Empire with an original blade PM me. But, you must have a useable strop or you will only get a shave or two out of the blade and chipped blades are off limits.
Here is a picture of a typical desirable Empire set and a close up of a single blade.
If you own one of these razors and have been thinking of using it, or if you have looked at them on eBay or the B/S/T and thought about buying one this thread is for you. The Wilkinson Empire model was produced in England from about 1929 up to about 1952. There were a number of handle configurations and the later sets were seven-day sets with special clips that the blades fit into, with the clips then being inserted into the razor. This series of razors are single-edge safeties with an adjustable safety bar. The Empire models, like the Valet Auto Strop razors, are also designed so you may strop the blade while it is still in the handle. A little knob at the rear is turned to move the safety bar in and out. Some handle configurations also allow for the tilting and locking of the razor’s head at various angles. These are adjustable SE razors, a rather rare breed, and are fun to use.
The blades originally made to fit these razors are hollow ground blades and Waits puts these razors into the “wedge safety” category in his compendium. I posted how to re-hone the blades simply here: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...ow-ground-safety-blades?p=3597374#post3597374
Many readers of this part of the forum may not be into honing, so they may have a blade honed for them (see below) or can, for some models of the handles, use modified current production SE blades as described by themba in post #30, photos by drews50 in post #48, of this thread: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/206311-Calling-all-Wilkinson-Sword-razor-experts
The fancy looking 7-day sets like the one in post #27 of the above thread, are great looking sets, but cannot take the modified modern SE blades. To use this variation of handle that requires clips one must use the original blades. The earlier sets like those on posts #1, #20 and #48 have the handles that can take modified current production SE blades.
So how do these razors shave? With a sharp blade they shave surprisingly well. I shaved with re-honed original blades for ten days and had no problems. I received consistently nice CCS to BBS in three passes, no nicks or irritation, with good audible feedback. The ability to adjust the aggressiveness was fun and so was the stropping. The original blades must be stropped before each shave, but I strop both before and after use. The feel of the shave and the razor angle were a bit different, but the results were good. The blades are carbon steel, so they need to be thoroughly dried after each use.
The razors themselves, due to heavy build and the built in stopping mechanism are heavy, in particular, top heavy. This differs from many other razors that hold much of the weight in the handle and provides for both an entirely different balance requirement and shave experience. If you have used a Valet Auto Strop, then you get the top-heavy feel.
So far, I only had trouble with my first shave using the modified SE blade, which was the only shave where I experienced any nicks. After having used the original Wilkinson blades for ten days, the modified modern SE was a bit sharper and less forgiving. I still got an excellent shave, but there were four little nicks that were easily handled with cold water and alum. I am thinking that, if I had gone from regular SE to the modified SE in the Wilkinson handle, this would not have been an issue. The second shave with the modified SE was just fine and there was excellent results with no nicks or weepers.
Buying advice: I would suggest avoiding the pretty 7-day sets, unless you just want one for your collection. Most will have used blades and will require re-honing, since NOS stock replacement blades are hard to come by. If the original blades are chipped, avoid any set, as they are likely gone, because there is only so much you can take off these blades for them to still fit in the handle. I would go for one of the earlier models from the 1930’s, as they are both less expensive and can take the modified current blades. Here is one I just bought that can take the modified current production blades, and which is coming with some NOS wrapped original blades: http://www.ebay.com/itm/320785855391?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
You should with some careful buying be able to pick up a good cased older Empire set for $30 or less. The 7-day sets in good shape seem to be running $50 or more delivered, some up to $100. So, the more versatile handles are actually lower priced at this time.
Wilkinson made some wonderful sets before the Empire models, but these seem to be quite pricey; some of these sets even had Ivory handles. The earlier sets used different configuration blades and I have not tried adapting modern blades yet. I may do so in the near future, as I picked up one older set recently.
Well, I hope you find this post at least mildly interesting. If you are not in a hurry, since my schedule is unpredictable, I am willing to hone up one blade for each of a few members for the price of return postage. So, if you really want to try your Empire with an original blade PM me. But, you must have a useable strop or you will only get a shave or two out of the blade and chipped blades are off limits.
Here is a picture of a typical desirable Empire set and a close up of a single blade.
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