Trying to get some tips/advice. I have a light rust spot on my straight razor and was seeing what would be the best way going about treating it or just what to do about it. Would it be best to send it to someone or is there a way to do it yourself if the rust isn't too bad? I'm guessing it was there because i haven't used it in a while and have been using my double edge razor. When I get done using my straight I rinse it with water, wipe it dry, strop it, and then use some light oil on the blade and store it in my leather case. Also, I store it away from the bathroom while in the case, in a plastic storage container with my toiletries. Am I doing anything wrong with the care? Here are a couple pics to show the rust spot. I added a couple attached pics to show the rust spot.
rust (spot) treatment advice
- Thread starter nsm85
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Make sure the gap between the scales are dry before storing the razor too.
I use silica desiccate to keep my tools rust free in storage in addition to the oil wiped on them. I have humidity troubles and will always have them as I live in the south which is humid so using desiccate will be a normal thing for me and something you may want to do if you keep your stuff in plastic boxes
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RE: the OP.
If you have a rototool of some kind, then a small buffing wheel & jewelers rouge may knock it right out. It's pretty slow stuff, so you would need some patience. If you do that, keep it away from the edge unless you can hone the "oops" back out of it.
If you have a rototool of some kind, then a small buffing wheel & jewelers rouge may knock it right out. It's pretty slow stuff, so you would need some patience. If you do that, keep it away from the edge unless you can hone the "oops" back out of it.
Leather cases are not the best for storing steel objects... they are known to cause rust.. the tanning chemicals, aling with leathers tendency to hold moisture - combine to cause rust.
Storing it in a sealed plastic box will exacerbate the situation...
I can't see the rust in your photo all that clearly... sanding is possible but I would go with fine grit w/d and go slowly, especially if the rust goes near the bevel. The paper will load fast but that's better than going hog-wild with 220 and scratching the blade up.
Or - you can dunk it in CLR - and then rehone the blade. Which is what I would probably do.
Storing it in a sealed plastic box will exacerbate the situation...
I can't see the rust in your photo all that clearly... sanding is possible but I would go with fine grit w/d and go slowly, especially if the rust goes near the bevel. The paper will load fast but that's better than going hog-wild with 220 and scratching the blade up.
Or - you can dunk it in CLR - and then rehone the blade. Which is what I would probably do.
I wish I had a levitating shaving brush. 
Is the dark patch on the left of the blade the rust or just a reflection?
Is the dark patch on the left of the blade the rust or just a reflection?
i dont see the rust. and what the hell is holding up the tweezerman?
Looks like light etching left after removing rust. I think that is what he indicated.
Edit: I take that back, he did say rust.
That is the rare and highly coveted flying Tweeserman
its a loop of string...there was a thread a while back regarding how to store brushes IIRC.
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That;s the rust on the left. It was difficult trying to angle the blade with the reflection of the light to made it clearer. Someone actually suggested using a blade to scrape it off if it was just surface rust or red rust. Which the rust did look like it was just on the surface. I used a blade for my double edge and it scrape the rust off. All i think i need to do now is try and polish it.
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