Restored Domino

[minstrel]

I bought a handful of bare straight razor blades off eBay a couple of months ago, and now I'm in the process of making new scales for them and polishing them up so they can get a second life.

This is my first serious try at re-scaling a blade. The scales are made of a wood I found in the dollar bin of a clothes store, and it is reputedly Sheesham wood. The wedge is made from moose antler, the pins are stainless steel as are the collars.

The blade is maked "Domino" on one side, and on the other it says "T. Noonan & Sons Co. Boston Mass. M. Germany" and the tang has a checkered pattern. It's a 6/8 spike point, and I still need to polish it some more and sharpen it, and then try shaving with it.

/Nicholas

 

[JBHoren]

Absolutely gorgeous! and I love that checkering on the tang. Great work!! you must be very proud, and rightfully so. Thanks for posting the photos.

Smooth shaving!

 

[ignatz]

Minstrel, for a first ever attempt I have to give you very good marks for that one.

Now, I can't be quite sure from your pictures, but it appears to me that your moose antler insert is a simple, flat slice. I'm sure that it works, but I would suggest that your next effort have a wedge-shaped insert. This is absolutely the 'norm' for almost all straight razors (see attachment) except in those cases where the scales are made of some material that will not tolerate bending.

Why this wedge shape? There are two reasons for this:

The first is that it makes the razor compacter at the toe end (narrower).

The second reason is that the scales when given an angled-out stance by a wedge-shaped insert must be forced back in to the tang of the blade when riveted. The slight spring tension and curving of the scales thus imparted give extra strength and rigidity to the whole arrangement. If you observe the scales of a straight razor as you open and close the blade you will see that they flex ever so slightly to follow the blade. In fact, this bit of curve and tension also allows one to use scales that are slightly thinner and lighter for the same amount of rigidity that would are achieved by a similar material in a flat, untensioned state. In this, the behaviour can be likened to a sheet of paper which has almost no strength when flat, but an absolutely astounding amount of strength when held in a curved form.

Is this wedge form difficult to achieve? Not at all. Take your insert and sand it to an agreeable angle (something like 7 - 10 degrees). Don't cut it exactly to the outline of your razor scales yet.

What happens next is that you align your scales properly, one to the other, and glue them to either side of this insert (super glue is outstanding for this purpose). The usual clamping device for this is an ordinary clothes pin. Once the glue has set properly, remove the clothes pin, drill out that end of the scales and rivet it for security.

Proceed to finish off that end of the scales by sanding away any slightly protruding bit of that insert and then polishing up (if so desired).

What you have now is a set of scales that are in a somewhat acute 'Vee' form, the opposite open end of which will be riveted around the tail end of the razor.

At this point you can drill out the rivet hole at the tail end of the razor. Simple force the two sides of the scales together and drill through. A strong arguement for not drilling this hole ahead of time is that by waiting until the scales are bonded together you account for any slight misalignment that might occur during the gluing-up operation. Measure and carefully place this second rivet hole very carefully since you will want to be certain that the toe of the razor clears the insert properly as it opens and closes. I have seen some razors where the scale length (implying the positioning of the rivet holes) was a wee bit too short so that the blade had to be 'forced' in when it was folded closed.

 

[minstrel]

Ignatz, the wedge is wedge shaped, it just doesn't show very well in the picture. If it wasn't, I wouldn't call it a "wedge" in the first place.

/Nicholas

 

[Taz]

Nice work sir

 

[ignatz]

Minstrel, my apologies. I stand corrected.

It must, indeed, be the angle that played tricks on me.

And I repeat: a very fine first effort. You may be justifiably pleased with the result.

 

[BillEllis]

I think you did a purdy darn good job on those scales. The lines are symmetrical and flow nicely. The washers and pins have been addressed with some good care, showing attention to detail. They are also put at a good distance from the ends of the scales.

Nickel silver pins would be easier to pin and not create an instance where you crack the scales because you might have to hit them too hard with a hammer to get proper tensions. Another solution is to heat your stainless pin beforehand to a red hot state and let it air cool. This annealed state will allow for easier peening.

I would only offer that you should not sell yourself short by looking for "bargain" wood. It looks like your talent has surpassed the cheap stuff to practice on. The grain of that wood looks a little too coarse. Although it has a nice look, I think you will be happier with your results if you pick a wood like African amazique, desert ironwood, purple heart, yellow heart, stabilized curly maple, cocobolo, or any of the other really hard woods. Sand to 1,500, at least and throw on some Renaissance wax.

My only other suggestion would be to finish the blade first, before you put on such a nice set of scales.

 

[minstrel]

Bill, I agree that those woods would probably be better, but since I can't get hold of those kinds of wood in large enough pieces to make scales (they are available for knife handles, but then they are pre-cut to suitable "handle size" pieces, which are way too short for straight razor scales) I have to make do with what I can find. The only woods easily obtainable in lumber yards etc. around here is pine and birch. If you're lucky you can find oak too. I really envy people who can go to their local lumber yard and pick up large pieces of some exotic hardwood...

/Nicholas

 

[izlat]

Super job! You seem to have some mad skills! And with a teacher like Bill - you are going places

Cheers
Ivo